• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.127-138
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• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.272-281
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• 2016

From the year 2000 on, Seoul has aimed to be a fashion city, and thus has been supporting young designers through Seoul Fashion Creative Studio, Generation Next, Le Dome, Concept Korea, etc. London is famous for nurturing young designers through the joint help of government, schools and industries: Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and Peter Pilotto are successful cases. Therefore, this research aims to suggest a direction for policies aimed at helping young designers in the international market, on the basis of London's nurturing programs and ideas from a literature review and case studies. The results are below. Firstly, a step-by-step supporting program is recommended. Secondly, long-lasting, sustainable programs are considered essential to support designers after the end of their contracts. Thirdly, practical assistance is preferred to monetary funding in order to lighten the designers' lot and in the interests of transparency. The mentoring service should be strengthened for the designers to eventually become independent. The support should be tailor-made according to items. Fourthly, the supporting programs should be promoted. Fifthly, government and industries should collaborate. Sixthly, 'de minimis' against overlapped support should be legislated. For these, the change of supporting method can be helpful; an independent administrative organisation plans and collects funds from governments and companies. Through these programs and any subsequent studies, Seoul could become a fashion city where young designers play active roles at a global level.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.46-58
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• 2016

Architecture and Fashion mutually affects the shape and appearance of the other as an art of space according to the hybrid trends. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to find the correlations between the characteristics of traditional architecture types in Southeast Asia and modern fashion. Firstly, characteristics of the types obtained through the theoretical consideration of Southeast Asian architectural tradition include vertical, symmetrical, geometrical, epeated and continual structure. On the basis of these characteristics analyzed from 2013's S/S to 2015's F/W collection of Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Victor & Rolf, designers with strong creative and experimental minds who juxtaposed designs of two opposing points as well as hybrids since 2000, the following formativeness exists. First, the vertical structure of high floor is represented as a straight silhouette, a color contrast, vertical cut or wrinkle. Hence, it impresses verticality, rhythm, etc. Second, symmetrical structure of the gable roof is represented as a trapezoidal shape starting from the shoulder line or neck line widened into sleeves, impressing symmetry, dynamism, etc. Third, the geometry of the assembled is represented as vertical and horizontal bands or pattern pieces like puzzle, impressing geometry, three-dimensional, etc. Fourth, repeated structure of the weaving pattern is represented as repetitive patterns of woven fabric or printing techniques. Thus, it impresses repeatability, harmony, etc. And lastly, continuous group structure is represented as a connection of collars or hem-lines, as well as a crossing of fabric that impresses continuity, liquidity, etc.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.112-126
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate visual elements of steampunk fashion and provide base line data for innovative fashion design ideas and products. We investigated design characteristics of steampunk fashion style shown in 3 movies and 3 animations. Based on the investigation, the research drew intrinsic value of steampunk fashion from three brands 'Vivienne Westwood', 'Dolce & Gabbana' and 'Alexander McQueen'. As the research analyzed movies and animations revealing steampunk style, various characteristics were found and assorted into similar categories. Subcategories of steampunk fashion are pluralism, rebellion and heterogeneity. The followings are result of analyzing three designer collection listed above. First, steampunk fashion made by designers used various color and materials to express multi-pluralistic(multiplicity) characteristic. Second, fashion style in collections revealed artistic and experimental design. This adventurous and innovative characteristic is categorized as rebellion feature. Third, steampunk fashion style used mix-match of unexpected materials or unbalanced silhouette to create a complete fashion style by combining styles in duplicity which could've lack harmony. Intrinsic value of steampunk is defined as graffiti of 19th century's science technology and utopia spirit. Longing for past and fantasy was expressed into fashion. Steampunk fashion wants to escape reality and tries to recreate history of the past faded away with technological development. It defines steampunk as freedom, deviation and fantastical utopia in positive point of view. Furthermore, aesthetic implication of steampunk style found in this research can make a boundary of steampunk style clear and become reference for future researches regarding steampunk fashion.