• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.613-625
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• 2007

Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.329-334
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• 2006

현대는 정치, 경제, 문화적으로 점차 국제화되어짐에 따라 내 외국인 관광객의 증가에 따른 관광산업의 중요성과 그 역할이 점차 부각되어지고 있다. 그 가운데 부산은 APEC 정상회의, 부산국제영화제(PIFF) 등의 대규모 국제 행사를 통해 국제적 관광도시를 지향하고 있으며, 이에 걸맞는 우리 고유의 문화적 특성을 마련할 필요성이 있다. 특히 호텔은 관광객들에게 우리 고유의 문화를 체험할 수 있는 장소를 제공하는 매개체적 역할을 한다. 그 중에서도 부산 중구에 위치한 코모도호텔은 한국적 외양과 의장의 건축적 요소를 갖추고 있지만 객실의 인테리어 디자인에는 한국적 요소가 적용되지 못한 문제점을 가지고 있다. 이러한 코모도호텔의 객실을 한국적 전통요소를 적용하여 리모델링함으로써 내 외국인 관광객들이 우리 고유의 문화를 친숙하게 느낄 수 있도록 하였다. 또한 우리의 문화를 지속적으로 보존, 계승, 발전시켜 세계적인 문화로 거듭날 수 있도록 하고자 하였다. 대상 객실은 스텐다드 더블, 디럭스 트윈, 세미 스위트 온돌룸의 세 가지 타입의 객실을 선정하고, 한국의 전통적 조형요소의 현대성과 전통성을 다양하게 적용한 객실 인테리어 리모델링 디자인을 제안하였다.

• 한국실내디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국실내디자인학회 1999년도 춘계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.71-74
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• 1999

Mechanical world view was built by Newton and Decarte approximately 400 years ago. Modern Society has reached at the time for fundamental adjustment and in effect, the paradigm shift is now under way. The new paradigm is the holistic world view that considers the world as the integrated entirety rather than the unity of separated parts. The pluralistic phase which can be considered as general characteristics observed in the art, society and culture in the end of the 20th century is seen as the reflection of this new world view. the complementary relationship between traditionism and modernity and oriental intuitive, holistic approach and western rational analytical approach can be explained when the complementary relationship is recognized with holistic and integrated view. The holistic paradigm and integrated-artistic view are the new aesthetic value which can suggest an alternative for public art of environmental design.

• 복식
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• 제53권6호
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• pp.11-23
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• 2003

Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

• 한국조경학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.89-106
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• 1998

This essay addresses the role of environmental aesthetics in landscape architecture : how can environmental aesthetics enrich landscape architectural theory and practice\ulcorner It begins by criticizing the predominant notions toward theory : theory as an instrumental design method, theoretical vacuum in modernism of landscape architecture, and the intimate relation of theory and practice in 18th-century England. It suggests that the expulsion of theory in landscape architectural academics and profession is nothing but an inappropriate bias. In the second place, the essay explores a remaining question : why environmental aesthetics is a part of landscape architectural theory\ulcorner I would argue that environmental aesthetics can transcend the man-nature(subject-object) dichotomy, one of heritages of Western modernity project. Here, landscape architecture meets environmental aesthetics, and both can intermediate between theory and practice. For landscape architecture is (and ought to be) a device of embodied communication, creating symbolic settings wherein an interconnection of man and nature can occur. Finally, this essay examines the aesthetics of engagement that Arnold Berleant claimed recently. This theory of aesthetic experience has a possibility of making corrections some improper conventions in landscape architectural creation and appreciation : disinterested contemplation, visual-orientedness, decoration-denteredness, and so forth. I would conclude that environmental aesthetics can be a significant theory which can correct misconceptions in landscape design and appreciation and, further, can lead contemporary practice. As the great mediator between man and nature, between theory and practice, environmental aesthetics has a profound role to play in the realm of landscape architecture, and vice versa.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.85-96
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• 2013

This study relates to meta-phenomena in architectural design. Among others, this study aims to interpret and demonstrate the cognitive thoughts and methodological systems in 'autonomy and instrumentality' presented in works of art by positivist architects focusing on diagrams after the second modernity in addition to earlier formal experiments by John Hejduk, Peter Eisenman, Bernard Tschumi, and Daniel Libeskind. In order to achieve these aims, this study approached the mimetic concepts developed by Walter Benjamin and Theodor Adorno. Especially, meta-phenomena in the methods of architectural design were connected to productivity in Adorno's mimetic concepts. Also, in terms of formation and creation of works of art, the mimetic backgrounds of Adorno's theories on aesthetics were identified from features of concepts on the part of formal experiments. The results were systemized methodologically based on meta-phenomena appearing in pure arts and overall architectural design. These were presented as a framework to interpret 'autonomy and instrumentality' that exist in the working of negativity and mimesis. In this way, logics and intuition in architectural design as well as methodological systemization of convergent creativity were proved valid. In conclusion, Adorno's mimetic concepts systemized based on negativity and critical awareness may lead to new concepts. It has been proved that it is valid for security of meta-phenomena of architectural design as a production of autonomous spaces for differences and creation.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권10호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2008

This study re-examines new aesthetic values pursued by Givenchy, analyzing by the Haute Couture line's chief designers. The following conclusions have been reached: Hubert de Givenchy pursued modernity, infused with simplicity and structured stability. In particular, Audrey Hepburn, who was a loyal client and used his line in several movies, provided him the platform for international exposure which he used to further develop what became known as the "Hepburn" style. The subsequent brief tenure of John Galliano did yield the fantastic and magnificent "Galliano-style", but with irregularity. Based on romanticism, it redefined fashion using a wide range of colors, subjects and decoration. His successor, Alexander McQueen, applied opposite elements using a hybrid technique of pastiche, parody and collage. With innovative inspiration he compromised the concepts of gender, time, space and cultures and recreated futuristic forms of nature, animals, insects and mythical images. Julien Macdonald, who was appointed in 2001 as the Artistic Director for the women's collections, minimized his individual style and preferred feminine, graceful and sexy silhouettes. He breathed fresh life in to Givenchy Haute Couture, reinterpreting the Hepburn style in a modernistic mode. Being passed on the responsibility for both collections (i.e., haute couture and ready-to-wear) in 2005, Riccardo Tisci redefined elegance, combining his unique and tailored gothic style with Givenchy's grace. He is developing the future of Givenchy, experimenting with volume, silhouettes, new kinds of fabric and techniques.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제29호
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• pp.35-42
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• 2001

As a part of Avant-Garde movement centered in Russia before and after the Revolution in 1917, Russian Constructivism was born as most experimental and avant-garde modernity artistic movement. Russian Constructivism played a significant part in relative to Avant-Garde in the beginning of twentieth century and has contributed to a series of artistic movement, it deserves a status befitting its contribution to modem abstract art. Noticing the fact that Constructivist approaches are being attempted in modern architecture with the new rise of Constructivist design theory and increased interest in Constructivism, this thesis explores the design elements characterizing Constructivism in art and architecture To be specific, it suggests the relation of Plastic paradigm in formalistic, elemental and technical aspects and categories into Plastic characteristics. Thereby, the thesis aims to categorize the elements in terms of contradicting two trends of pure plastic and scientific expressions, and to analyze comparatively the related Plastic trends represented in modern space design. The thesis recolonizes that attempts to break out from stereotypes of Constructivism to reinvent itself constantly have contributed to an unconventional forms and new aesthetic standards and have a great impact on idealistic forms in many genres.

• 영어영문학
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• 제56권6호
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• pp.1311-1337
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• 2010

This paper deals with one of the hottest debates in the history of the Association for Asian American Studies (AAAS) since its inception in the late 1960s. In 1998 at Hawai'i, the AAAS awarded Lois-Ann Yamanaka its Fiction Award for her novel Blu's Hanging, only to have this award protested. The point at issue was the inappropriate representation of Filipino American characters called "Human Rats" in the novel. This event divided the association into two groups: one criticizing the novel for the problematic portrayal of Filipinos in colonial Hawai'i, and the other defending it from the criticism in the name of aesthetic freedom. Such a "crisis of representation" in Asian American identity reflects on the ways in which local Hawaiians are positioned in the complicate power dynamic between oppositional Hawaiian identity and cosmopolitan diasporic identity within the larger framework of Asian American pan-ethnic identity. The controversial event triggered the eruption of Asian Americans' anxiety over the identity-bounded nation of Asian America where intra-racial classism and conflict have been at play, which are primary themes of Blu's Hanging. This paper shows how Yamanaka's Blu's Hanging becomes so disturbing a work to prevent the hegemonic formality of Asian America identity from being fully dogmatic. Ultimately, it contradicts the political unconscious of the reading public and unmasked its false consciousness by engendering a "free subjective intervention" in the ideological reality of colonial Hawai'i.

• 한국시조학회지:시조학논총
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• 제42권
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• pp.151-185
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• 2015

본 연구는 사설시조에 나타난 '아이'의 양상과 그 시가사적 함의를 갈래사적 전통 속에서 한번 살펴본 것이다. 그간 시조 문학 연구에서 '아이'는 대체로 부수적인 존재, 관습적인 청자로서만 이해되어 왔지만 담론의 측면에서 보면, 서정의 맛과 멋을 한껏 드러내던 작품 세계(자아지향)를, 타자를 전제로 한 대화적 구조로 탈바꿈시키는 기능을 하기에 그 의미망이 결코 가볍지 않다. 먼저 사설시조에는 크게 침묵하는 아이와 발화하는 아이의 두 가지 형태가 발견된다. 전자는 호명된 존재, 관습적이면서 말 없는 수동적인 존재, 타자화 대상화 된 존재라면, 후자는 발화하는 적극적 주체, 근대성의 표지를 담보하는 주체의 모습을 보여준다. 이러한 차이는 발화 형태의 차이를 넘어서 미학적 질서의 차이를 노정하기도 한다. 즉 전자의 '아이'는 시적 화자의 내면적 요청에 의해 관념적으로 생산된 것인 만큼 주로 시적 화자의 서정성을 극대화하는 장치로서 활용될 뿐만 아니라 독자-텍스트 간의 동일화 담론의 미학적 질서를 형성한다면, 후자의 '아이'는 이질적인 발화들이 만들어내는 공명으로 인해 텍스트에 역동성을 부여함은 물론 독자-텍스트 간의 거리화 담론의 미학적 질서를 형성한다. 사설시조의 아이가 보여주는 이러한 면면들은 전대 시가에서 이미 그 편린들이 발견된다. 향가의 경우, 타자의 결핍을 해소하기 위해 요청된 존재로서 발화하지만 대상화된 존재로서의 '아이'가, 고려 속요의 경우 시적 화자에 의해 침묵을 강요받지만 이를 자발적인 발설로 깨뜨려버리는 적극적인 '아이'가, 시조의 경우는 '아이'의 훈육 및 성장과 관련한 노래가 등장하기도 해서 특이점을 보여주긴 하지만 발화의 측면에서 대체로 시적 화자에 의해 대상화 된 '아이'가 우세하게 등장하는 점이 바로 그것이다. 사설시조를 포함해 전대 시가에서 발견되는 이러한 아이의 모습은 주로 중세가 부과한 아이의 모습과 연결된다면, 이전 시가에서와는 달리, 사설시조만이 보여주는 새로운 아이의 모습은 중세에서 근대로의 이행기, 시대적 징후의 단면들을 보여준다. 즉 작품 편수가 많지는 않지만, 사설시조에서 발견되는 적극적인 '아이'의 모습은 '개인'을 내세우면서 더 이상 중세가 부과한 '아이다움'의 테두리에 있지 않는 새로움을 보여준다. 사설시조의 '아이'가 보여주는 새로움은 순진무구한 존재로서 '아동(child, infant)'이라는 근대적 개념과는 거리가 있지만, 발화 속에서 제시되는 다성성, 웃음, 개인의 중시, 다중 시선 등의 측면에서 근대의 일면을 드러낸다는 점에서 주목된다.