• 디자인학연구
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.231-240
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• 2002

전통적으로 의상과 신체의 관계는 고정적인 것이었으나, 해체적 사고는 의상에서 신체의 존재와 부재뿐만 아니라 착용자의 정체성에 대한 회의를 불러 일으켰다 그 결과 의상의 중심 개념인 신체의 해체를 통해 가시적인 신체뿐만 아니라 실존하는 신체를 넘어선 더 큰 의미의 신체인 메타 바디를 제시하였다 이는 의상의 합리성은 물론 표현 방법이나 형태에 영향을 미쳐 다양한 방법의 신체 부재현상으로 나타났다. 그 유형은 1. 성 정체성의 부재 2. 조화된 전체성의 부재 3. 형태의 부재 4. 의상으로서의 의미 부재로 표현되었다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제21권
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• pp.219-231
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• 1997

의복은 단순한 상징적 체계, 즉 입는다는 기능성에 벗어나 미학의 한 위상으로, 의미를 전달하는 기호코드로 새로운 자리 매김을 하고 있다. 이러한 현상을 파악하고자, 의상에서 인체의 부재를 통해 전달하고자 하는 의미를 강조한 3점의 작품을 분석한 결과, 1) 입음/걸려짐, 긍정적/부정적, 능동적/수동적, 있음/없음을 통해 남성/여성의 의미를 대립시키고, 2)사회적인/사적인, 인체/옷을 통해 남성과 여성을 적절함/부적절함, 주체적인/부수적인 의미로 환원시켰다. 3) 하나의/다수의, 단순함/다양함, 제한적인/자유로운 의미를 통해 옷 입는 방법에 대한 사유를 하고 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.26-33
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• 2009

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of concealing, revealing, and deforming the body. Using �body�t o analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the absence of physicality in fashion focusing on the deformation of the body parts. The absence of physicality denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body, which opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and signifi? f clothing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.604-619
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• 2007

Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation and non-representation of the body in fashion. Theoretically, this study draws from Jean Baudrillard's Simulation theory which maintains that simulation develops the whole edifice of representation. My study substitutes the successive phases of the image to that of (non) representing body in fashion. The correspondences between them are; first, 'image is the reflection of a basic reality' for the representation of physicality, second, 'image masks and perverts a basic reality' for the manipulation of physicality, third, 'image masks the absence of a basic reality' for the absence of physicality, and fourth, 'image bears no relation to any reality whatever' for the absence of body in fashion. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권8호
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• pp.1253-1261
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• 2009

The paper-folding effect of origami signifies a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in a more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, and an absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body. Origami inspiration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores a trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. This study inquires on the influence of origami as a method to create new vestmental space in contemporary fashion. The flat-plane clothes of origami-inspired design are no longer cut to the body and the clothes could be altered by the wearer. The space is introduced in between a three-dimensional dress-body and the body. Origami-inspired design in Japanese avant-garde fashion deconstructs the convention and promotes a symbiosis of body and clothing instead. The shape of the body is completely estranged by three-dimensional sculptures, alluding to the paper folds of origami and the movement of the body that are transmitted to the clothing through fine folding that transform into an unexpected event.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제2권
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• pp.90-127
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• 2000

The Paper aims to survey and analyze the meaning 'Absence of body' from clothes as non-verbal communication medium. Two types of absence of body from clothes are clothes as object because of removing body, and flattened colthes to deny the body form. In results of analysis, 1)the confrontation of male/female was represented by positive/negative, active/passive, present/absent. 2) male/female means social/private, body/clothing, relevant/irrelevant, subjective/additive. 3) one/numbers, simple/various, limited/free present the various way of waering. 4) tradition/contemporary is expressed by materials 5) enlarged clothes expresses the cynical attitude about body 6) inside/outside , one dress/layered dress suggest new concept to wear against traditional way of wearing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권9호
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• pp.1085-1098
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• 2011

In the $21^{st}$ century, technology is a tool for the expansion of the five senses and physical ability that works as an element for posthuman identity. This study analyzes and theorizes on the characteristics of the posthuman body in fashion illustration. The method of this study analyzes documentaries about posthuman and fashion illustration. The results are as follow. Posthuman body types are classed as hybrid body, plastic surgery body, and digital body. The characteristics of the posthuman body are categorized as ultra- functional prosthetic, mythical undifferentiated, radical plastic surgery type and post-physical digitization type. The ultra-functional prosthetic type shows a restored body and upgraded functional body through a machine hybrid, cyborg suit and mannequin hybrid. It is a break from classical gender identity to form a nerve sense extension that displays physical and abstract power. The mythical undifferentiated type shows a therianthropic form, parts of an animal body, radical skin and gender bending. It represents the return to an undifferentiated world, the desire of a powerful being and the possibility of radical transformation. The radical plastic surgery type shows a photomontage of an ideal body, transgendered body, grotesque body marking, absence of partial or overall face organ and the expansion of abnormal body organs. It represents the expression of narcissism, unconscious desire, fantasy, fear and suggests an alternative ideality, sexual attachment and ambiguous gender identity. The post-physical digitization type shows an imperfect form or duplicated ego image through the omission of the body silhouette or detailed form, fragmented image using net, representative self like optical illusion using typography, an imperfect vague silhouette and immaterial body outline through the use of virtual light. It represents the lack of desire, narcissism, fluidity in a virtual space, the continued creation of a new self, ambiguous gender identity and the liberation of environment, sex, and race. Likewise, the posthuman in fashion illustration shows the absence of a species boundary, destruction of classical gender identity, a new personality and virtual self image.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.70-80
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and $signifi\acute{e}$ in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.145-159
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• 2007

Freed from its traditional confinement to the human body, postmodernism in fashion exposes the defectiveness of body and abstracts from the body under. As the 20th century art put premium on self-expression, the body itself became a powerful medium of expression in fashion. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the fragmentation of the body in fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in fragmentation of the body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century, The results of the study are as follows. Fragmentation of the body in fashion means the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body. The formative aspects of fragmentation are achieved through body casting, displacement, and deconstruction. The absence of physicality in fashion opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and $signifi{\tilde{e}}$ of clothing. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze fragmentation of the body in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.