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A Study on Modern Costume Design applied the Formativity of Korean Traditional Cloth Wrappers (전통조각보를 응용한 현대 의상 디자인 연구 - 면 구성적 특징을 중심으로-)

  • 조해정;김정희
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.7-18
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    • 2000
  • Study of Costume Design Applied The Formativity of Korean Traditional Cloth Wrappers Costume has been coexistion with man ever sine human history began, and in modem society its role in man's living, culture and art has become so great that It is now an object most refreshing and of extensive concern to man. This study, based on the expressive quality and purity of Korean traditional cloth wrappers which have the formativity continuously pursueing new visual inspirations, is to seek new expressional diversities and rediscover our traditional beauty and at the same time to present possibilities of reflecting more unique, new spirit of the times inherent in our culture and of creating certain formative world of design value. In studying, literary reference as atheoretical background, analysis of the formative characteristics of traditional cloth wrappers through corrobcrative data preserved as a cultural asset at museums, and actual making of eight works in total based on the results of analysis have been paralled.

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A Study on Supsin(Shoes for dead) in 18th Centuries through the Analysis of the Historical Records and Excavated Relics (기록과 실물을 통해 본 조선시대 습신(이(履)·혜(鞋)) - 김원택 일가 출토 습신 중심 -)

  • Chang, In-woo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.8
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    • pp.95-109
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this Study is to understand Supsin (shoes for dead) in late Chosun dynasty through records and excavated relics. The research records in this study were two types which one was official records as The Annals of The Chosean Dynasty(朝鮮王朝實錄), Dairy of the Royal Secretariat(承政院日記) ets and the other was private records as Korean literary collections of confucian scholars in classical chinese(文集) ect. as for relics use two types of materials that one is the excavated supsins and the other is Research Reports of Excavated Costumes published from museums. Through the Collections, we can notice that shoes were several types which Wunhae(雲鞋), Danghae(唐鞋) Onhae(溫鞋) Wunli(雲履), Taesahae(太史鞋) in Chosun dynasty. these were worn in different ways according to wearer's gender, the social status, daily life or rituals, inside or outside in palace. Wunhae and Wunli was the most ceremonial shoes for man and Onhae was the most ceremonial shoes for woman. the dead man worn the Wunhae or Wunli for Supsin and the dead woman worn Onhae. we could see they use the most ceremonial shoes for supsin. through the records, we could see the change that Women's Supsin was written for the first time in 18th Saraepyenram(四禮便覽). men's Supsin was recorded as '履', while Women's Supsin was recorded as '鞋' in Saraepyenram. the reason for making difference between man and woman in costumes(男女有別). and the excavated Supsin showed that the dead worn more ceremonial shoes than records. these changes mean one of the results for making korean style rituals from chinese style(國俗化).

Jean Rhys's Racial Disorientation: "The Imperial Road" and the Question of Racial Identification in the 1970s

  • Lee, Jung-Hwa
    • Journal of English Language & Literature
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    • v.55 no.3
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    • pp.441-458
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    • 2009
  • The Imperial Road is Jean Rhys s unfinished manuscript, rejected by publishers for its openly racist tone. Although it describes Rhys s actual visit to Dominica in 1936, it is not a transparent recollection of the travel but a recreation informed by racial dynamics of the 1970s when she wrote the text. This paper examines the manuscript as a troubled (and troubling) response to what Rhys perceived as racial rejection from Dominica at the wake of political independence. Rhys s representation of white Creole womanhood significantly depends on an interwoven configuration of racial dynamics and sexual politics, where an oppressive white European man facilitates a white Creole woman s cross-racial identification with Afro-Caribbeans. However, the political and literary landscape of the West Indies in the 1970s made such cross-racial identification untenable. As a result, The Imperial Road is full of disturbing racial hatred, prejudice, and resentment. And yet, it also reflects Rhys s honest and serious concern over a white Creole s racial identity in postcolonial Dominica, raising a difficult question: How would a postcolonial age change a white Creole identity that belongs neither to the colonized nor to the colonizer (or both)? In The Imperial Road, unable to identify with Afro-Caribbeans, the white Creole is disoriented in time and space, lost at home, stuck between the past and the present, not knowing how to participate in a postcolonial homeland. Through the narrator s racial disorientation, The Imperial Road exposes the white Creole s fundamental dependence on other Creoles.

The Conversational Revisionism of "The Nightingale" (『나이팅게일』의 대화적 수정주의)

  • Joo, Hyeuk Kyu
    • Journal of English Language & Literature
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    • v.57 no.5
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    • pp.701-725
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    • 2011
  • This paper attempts to read "The Nightingale" as an experimental proponent of Lyrical Ballads of 1798, one that inaugurated British Romanticism. It is never accidental for this poem to come to replace "Lewti" at the last moment of publication and to be tied to the poetic principles manifested in the "Advertisement" of the 1798 volume. The speaker of this poem, for example, is an ordinary man, who presents himself as a friend and a loving father. Opting for conversational styles rather than blindly copying literary conceits, he even incorporates an evening episode he happens to recall into a legitimate subject matter. The notion of "conversation," which appears in the subtitle, offers a key to figuring out the ideal of poetic language, the figure of the poet, and compositional procedures Coleridge and Wordsworth proposed in their collaborative project. "The Nightingale" can be a dubious, if not totally failed, poetical journey to subverting an incidence of misnaming acts. He finally reaches the limits of poetic figuration in a process of textualizing nature. The leitmotif of "In nature there is nothing melancholy" testifies to the fact that the bird nightingale, which the narrator is hard at work to rename as a joyous bird, is nothing but a poetic metaphor. "The Nightingale" is more likely to be a revisional, regenerative performance based on the strategy of conversation than an embodiment of a daring novelty.

A Symphony of Language

  • Kim, Chin W.
    • Lingua Humanitatis
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.5-50
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    • 2002
  • This paper aims to illustrate and illuminate the relationship between language and its neighbor disciplines, in particular between language and literature, language and religion, and language and music. 1. Language and literature. Literature is an art of language. Therefore, linguistics, the science of language, should be able to explain how the grammar of literature elevates and ordinary language into a literary language. I illustrate poetic syntax with examples from Shelley, Coleridge, and Wordsworth. 2. Language and religion. I show how a linguistic analysis of a religious text can illuminate the background, authorship, chronology, etc., of a religious text with an example from the Book of Daniel. I also illustrate how a misanalysis of a poetic meter led to a mistranslation with an example from the Book of Psalms. 3. Language and music. First I trace an epochal event in the history of the Western music, i.e., the change of the musical style from the liturgical music of Latin in which the rhythm was created by the alternation of syllable duration into the liberated music of German in which the rhythm was generated by the alternation of lexical stress. I then illustrate a parallelism between linguistic and musical structures with several musical pieces including Gregorian chant, the 16th century music of Palestrina, the 17th century music of Schutz, the 18th century music of Mozart, and the 19th century Viennese music. Finally, the importance of text-tune (verse-melody) association is discussed with examples of mismatches in translated Korean hymns and contemporary Korean lyrical songs. In the concluding part, I speculate on some factors that are responsible for the same organizational devices in three different modes of human communication. An answer may be that all are under the same laws of mind that govern the way man perceives and organizes nature, i.e., the same cognitive abilities of man, in particular, the capacity to organize and impose structure on their respective inputs.

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Giambattista Vico: His View on Language and History (지암바티스타 비코의 언어관과 역사관)

  • 문경환
    • Lingua Humanitatis
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    • v.6
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    • pp.51-75
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    • 2004
  • Is there a pattern in history? How and why does social change occur? Are we to distinguish between the methods to be employed in the study of man and the study of nature? How does linguistic, or 'philological', knowledge contribute to unearthing historical facts? These are the queries that Vico grappled with throughout his life. Vico, however, was an outsider to the intellectual atmosphere of his own day, dismissed as obscure, speculative, and unsound. Only after his death did he begin to inspire enthusiasm among diverse readers, and as long as we remain concerned with the queries mentioned above, Vico's reflections will come alive with contemporary relevance. Actually he has been regarded as the founder--unrecognized by his contemporaries--of the philosophy of history and as a thinker whose ideas anticipated such later intellectual movements as historicism, pragmatism, existentialism, and structuralism. There are many among modern minds who find Vico fascinating for his view of myth as concrete thought and of an age of myth as a necessary age in the intellectual evolution of the human race. James Joyce, for one, was deeply impressed by Vico's view on myth, on metaphor, on Homer, on language, on psychology, and much else besides. 'My imagination grows when I read Vico,' he once confessed, 'as it doesn't when I read Freud or Jung.' Some philosophers, critics, psychologists, social scientists and even geographers would describe themselves as 'Vichians', sharing the view that Vico was a poet and a lawyer, a platonist and a baconian rolled into one. His refusal to be confined within any one discipline, his imaginative effort to understand different cultures, and his insight in dealing with some fundamental problems in the study of humanity all compel admiration and deserve to be emulated in our age--an age when the split between the literary and the scientific approaches to the understanding of society is widening into a chasm. Vico has left some of his most important ideas underdeveloped or even undeveloped, to be excavated and polished by us afier our own fashion. It is surprising that Vico is still a man of obscure name in the academia of our country, Korea.

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Construction of Shakespeare Authorship in the Eighteenth Century: An Example of Edmond Malone's Edition. (18세기 셰익스피어 저자론-말로운의 편집서 중심으로)

  • Han, Younglim
    • Journal of English Language & Literature
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    • v.59 no.4
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    • pp.645-666
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    • 2013
  • In the history of the study of Shakespeare's texts the eighteenth century marked the emergence of editors, and in the history of Shakespearean editing Edmond Malone's emphasis on documentary evidence inaugurated a new stage. Malone's antiquarian scholarship sought to establish Shakespeare in the theatrical context of his age and a historically informed view of the physical circumstances under which he wrote his plays. Malone's editorial use of historical sources in terms of Shakespeare's past formulated a new mode of ascertaining his authorship: the construction of Shakespeare as a man of the theatre as well as of literature. Malone was the first scholar to recognize Shakespeare's merits as an actor, and to introduce the concept of the theatrical Shakespeare, which has become the scholarly norm since. In this respect this paper is designed to demonstrate that Malone's editorial principle and practice are characteristic of the identification of the factual documents of Shakespeare's biography, the authentication of his material to attain his true text, and the construction of his personal experiences through intensive readings of his plays. In conclusion, Malone's new criteria laid the foundation for the progress towards authorizing Shakespeare, thereby canonizing him as a figure of the theatrical and literary authority.

A Study on Symbolic Meaning of Woman's Body and Clothes in Fashion Works of Vivienne Westwood (Vivienne Westwood 작품에 나타난 여성 인체와 복식 상징성 연구)

  • Yun, Ji-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.3
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    • pp.379-390
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    • 2009
  • This Study is a research on symbolic meaning and artist's will of Vivienne Westwood's works which provide a new vision on woman's body and clothes. For the literary research, this study investigates theories of human's body which are phenomenal body of Merleau-Ponty's, the relations between power and body of M. Foucault's, cultural and social body of E. Goffman's and habitus of p, Bourdieu's. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood's collections are classified into each item which exaggerating and distorting woman's body such as Mini-Crini, corset, bustle cushion, bum-pad, farthingale and tailoring suits. Also she puts man's clothes item such as codpiece into woman's body. Through all of these design, she wants to reinterpret the woman's body and self-identity. Vivienne Westwood dose not leave the past just as a historic trace but recreates with her way of creation. Westwood has presented the satire which leads the parody of past in her unique ways of thinking and interpretation which mix the ideology of the past and the presents. Those make her look back the history and culture and express her esteem for self-identity of woman. Vivienne Westwood's works express woman's power and freedom in modem society.

A Study on Men's coats in Early $17^{th}$ Century based on the Excavated Costume of Kim, Hwak($1572{\sim}1633$) Tomb (김확[김확:$1572{\sim}1633$묘 유물을 통해 본 17세기 남자 포에 관한 연구)

  • Song, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.7
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    • pp.98-107
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    • 2007
  • This study examines the men's coats in the early $17^{th}$ century through the excavated costumes of Kim, Hwak($1572{\sim}1633$)'s tomb. Kim, Hwak was a literary man with a high government position. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, in the early $17^{th}$ century, there were many changes with the kinds and form of men's coats. From Kim, Hwak's tomb, there excavated 8 kinds of coats; Sim-ui, Dan-ryung, Jik-ryung, Cheol-rik, Do-po, Chang-ui, Joong-chi-mack, So-chang-ui, and they are 27 items. The characteristics of $17^{th}$ century costumes are well seen from these coats. Up to that period, Cheol-rik was worn as ordinary clothes, but from Kim, Hwak's tomb, there are 5 pieces of Do-po, and 15 pieces of Joong-chi-mack. This tells us that these items were widely worn after the $mid-17^{th}$ century.

Re-reading Women in Love : An ecological approach ("사랑하는 여인들" 다시 읽기: 생태학적 접근)

  • Ohm, Jeong-Ohk
    • English Language & Literature Teaching
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.119-136
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    • 2005
  • This paper attempts to prove the possibility that Women in Love can be approached by ecological thought. It is necessary to research the family of Lawrence's childhood, the environmental surroundings and Lawrence's viewpoint of nature to prove the possibility. The most urgent problem for us in the modern world is the ecological crisis due to the destructive aspect of modern civilization. This Lawrence's attitude toward the modern civilization is clearly reflected in Women in Love. Lawrence diagnoses the destructive aspects of modern civilization and the human relationship through Gerald, Gudrun, Hermione and Loerke who represent the industrial society and suggests the apocalyptic vision to the human being from the nature. Lawrence thinks that we must restore the animated power of life to revive the modern man who lost the vital power of life. Birkin and Ursula represent this thought of Lawrence and they accomplish the idealistic human relationship based upon the true love and the real life. They do not have the posture of the binomial contrast that separates the human being from the nature, This posture of the binominal brings to one of the causes of the present ecological crisis. As a result, we can say that Women in Love is the novel that belongs to the category of literary ecology. And we can regard that Lawrence previously presented the paradigm that ecologist advocates.

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