• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.177-188
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to appreciate Japanese clothing and ornament of the men's costume that showed a unique style of Japan as well as a mixture of foreign civilization in Edo period. The data related clothing, ornament and art of Japan were collected from books and slide films that had been studied in Japan, because the data studied in Korea were not enough. The results were as follows: First characteristic is. the dualism. The dualism was shown in the social class, estheticism and originality. In terms of the social class, the feudalism remained through their heraldry or mark of organization even though it was broken down. In terms of estheticism, it showed the coexistence of gorgeousness and plainness. In terms of the originality, it showed the coexistence of original Kosode and Kappa under the influence of Southern barbarians' mode. Second characteristic is the utility. $Ch{\check{o}}nin$ was needed to the functional clothing because of Its social position that had much activity. Therefore, the utility was shown in a simple silhouette of Haori and Hanten and in its way of wearing.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.52-58
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• 2004

Previous investigation results revealed that after the Low Temperature Plasma (LTP) treatment, the hydrophilicity of wool fiber was improved significantly. Such improvement enhances the wool dyeing and finishing processes which might be due to the changes of the wool surface to a more reactive one. In this paper, wool fibers were treated with LTP with different gases, namely, oxygen, nitrogen and gas mixture (25 % hydrogen/75 % nitrogen). Investigations showed that chemical composition of wool fiber surface varied differently with the different plasma gas used. The surface chemical composition of the different LTP-treated wool fibers was evaluated with different characterization methods, namely FTIR-ATR, XPS and saturated adsorption value. The experimental results were thoroughly discussed.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.32-42
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• 2005

This paper aims to propose fashion designs based on the application of art flower technique to translucent clothing material. For study method, firstly I looked into art flower applications occurred in modern trend since 2000 as well as theoretical research on art flower and transparency expressed as artificial beauty. Second, I attempt to express transparency in a variety of unique ways by using the art flower technique in producing clothes. Third, I utilized transparent flower with translucent clothing material and tried to suggest fashion design attempting mixture of new materials. As a result, firstly transparent image and material are well fitted in with modern trend and especially it was very suitable for expressing feminine beauty. Second, transparency was the element to suggest creative formative world in fashion design in regard to flower's beauty, various shapes and colors and to provide infinite materials as design motive. Third, the combination of knit clothing and plastic art flower displayed a new form of material combination. Especially as translucent material is fitted with trend such as function, lightness and variableness in modern times of the $21^{st}$ century, it presents beautiful combination with transparent flower. Fourth, Silk flower technique is variously used in art flower techniques. Various possibility ranges are presented such as flower was recreated with artificial image by silk flower technique to be newly expressed and various materials like aesthete film can be also expressed with silk flower technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1859-1869
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• 2010

This study provides improved wrinkle recovery and UV protection capabilities as well as an antibacterial and deodorizing function to linen fabrics for summer shirts. The results obtained from this study are as follows. By setting catalyst concentration to 1.2% and DMDHEU concentration to 6% respectively and applying a heat treatment to them at $160^{\circ}C$ for 5 minutes, the decrease of fabric strength could be minimized and the crease resistance of linen fabrics improved. Compared to the treatment with DMDHEU only, the crease resistance of linen fabrics could be maintained and degradation of their properties could be more effectively prevented by applying the mixture of the UV absorber and the nano silver to the DMDHEU resin. The UV protection of fabrics could be improved by adding the UV absorber. Although the separate treatment of resin or the nano silver had no effect on the improvement of the UV protection properties for treated fabrics, they could increase the UV protection capability when they were combined with the UV absorber. Linen fabrics could possess an antibiosis and deodorizing capability by applying the mixture of the UV absorber, the nano silver, and the resin. The UV protection, crease resistance and flexibility of finished fabrics were maintained even after laundering. Washed treated fabrics maintained excellent antibiosis and odor free capabilities compared to untreated fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.1-15
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of and to examine the characteristics of the golden decoration technique used for expressing patterns on the costumes from Dang dynasty to Cheong dynasty era. In order to classify the types of the golden decoration technique and to examine its characteristics, literature review, focusing on documents and records of China, and investigation on the relics from Dang to Cheong Dynasty era were conducted. The types of decoration technique using gold include china JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (attaching gold powder and flake technique), GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique), GeumSaTapestry, mixed technique. Interestingly, it was newly found in this study that embroidery with golden thread was used in the GeumSaTapestry technique and that there were some cases of the mixture of 2-3 gold decoration technique. The GeumSajaSu technique was used the most frequently from Dang dynasty to Yo dynasty era. However, its use had decreased enormously while the use of JigGeum had increased a lot since Geum dynasty era. The mixture of 2-5 techniques was used frequently in JigGeum, GeumSaJaSu, and GeumSaTapestry, but not used in InGeum. Particularly, the mixture technique was the most frequently used in the GeumSaTapestry, which expresses by composition of paintings. All four methods were used the mostly frequently in costumes, while GeumSaJaSu and GeumSaTapestry were generally used for home accessories. InGeum and GeumSaJaSu were used a lot for gaze and leno fabrics such as Sa or Ra, while JigGeum was mostly used for satin weaved fabrics like Dan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.524-535
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• 1994

The interaction and detergency between oily soil and surfactant solution were studied Samples used were tristearin, tripalmitin and their mixture as a triglyceride, myristic acid as a fatty acid and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) as surfactant. The results were as follows: 1. The mixtures of model oily soils were formed of eutectic point and their melting point were lower than them of individual oily soils. 2. The formation of liquid crystalline (LC) phase was recognized in the triangle phase diagram for SDS~ water~model oily soil system. The areas of LC phase region were in the order of SHS~ water~myristir acid> SDS~ water~mixture of tristearin, tripalmitin and myristic acid (TS/TP/M)>SDS~water~mixture of tristearin and tripalmitin (TS/TP) 3. The LC phase region expanded to wide concentration range of SDS solution and high concentration range of model oily soil with increasing temperature. Particularity, the LC phase region expanded highly at $30~40^{\circ}C$ but when the temperature was elevated above $40^{\circ}C$, expanding tendency decreased. 4. In the system of myristic acid and TS/TP/M contacted with SDS solution, the LC phase was already formed at $28^{\circ}C$ and the region of the LC phase were expanded with increasing temperature. But in the system of TS/TP contacted with SDS solution, the LC phase was not formed in whole experiment temperature. 5. The detergency of myristic acid was very high ann it was recognized that the formation of the LC phase played an important role in the detergency. The detergency of TS/TP was very for low, but when TS/TF was mixed with myristic acid, the detergency of TS/TP increased. It is supposed that the LC phase was formed butween SDS solution and myristic acid promoted to penetration of SDS solution into the inner parts of TS/TP.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.891-909
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examines the changes in Chinese women's clothing resulted from the introduction of Western culture in the first hal# of the 20th century in terms of Chinese view of the world and their attitude towards European culture. The clothes are divided into four types according to their characteristics : traditional Chinese type, China-Europe adjustment type, China-Europe blend type and European type. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined. The traditional Chinese type showed changes only in the width and length retaining the features of the traditional qipao until the 1910s. The China-Europe adjustment type used the same flat pattern making of traditional Chinese dress while imitating only the appearances of European one-piece, two-piece and three-piece dresses. It also was presented with European accessaries and hair-styles. The China-Europe blend type, starting to appear with the introduction of the three-dimensional pattern making from the Europe in the 1930s, showed a perfect mixture of European and traditional Chinese costumes in the early 1940s when the Chinese learned and adapted the European pattern making. The European type was the most modernized designs using a variety of European-style details and constructions as the traditional clothing started to have unrestricted European-style changes. Great significance can be found in the fact that the Chinese modified their garments by themselves using the pattern mating they learned from the Europe.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.790-796
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• 2011

This study was designed to investigate the influence of ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture on detergency of particulate soil under various solutions. The detergency of the particulate soil was determined by adhesion of particle to fabric and its removal from fabric separately. The PET fabric and ${\alpha}-Fe_2O_3$were used as materials of textile and model of particulate soil, respectively. The detergency was investigated as a function of surfactants concentration, ionic strength, kinds of electrolyte and mole numbers of oxyethylene ether of nonionic surfactant in different ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture. Although some deviations exist, the adhesion of particle to fabric generally increased with decreasing its removal from fabric. The detergency of particulate soil on PET fabric was relatively higher in anionic/nonionic surfactant mixed solution than in each single surfactant solution, but the influence of ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture on detergency of particulate soil was low. Generally the detergency of particulate soil on fabric was at its maximum at 0.1% surfactant concentration, $1{\times}10^{-3}$ ionic strength, $Na_5P_3O_{10}$ electrolytes and 10 mole numbers of oxyethylene ether of nonionic surfactant, regardless of ratio of anionic/nonionic surfactant mixture.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.53-62
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• 2014

This study examined the dyeability, color fastness and functionality of cotton fabrics dyed with residual parts of cultivated Pteridium aquilinum. UV-Vis absorption spectrum, TLC and FT-IR spectra analysis showed that colorants of Pteridium aquilinum are a mixture of pyrogallol tannin and catechol tannin. Optimum dyeing conditions was confirmed colorant concentration of 500% at $100^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. Color fastness followed to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light as 4-5, 5, 4-5(acidic), 3-4(alkaline) and 2, respectively. Deodorization rates of ammonia($NH_3$) and acetic acid ($CH_3COOH$) were analyzed 88.8% and 78.0%. UV protection rate was 94.2% of UV-A and 96.8% of UV-B. UV protection factor(UPF) was 27. Therefore residual parts of cultivated Pteridium aquilinum could be used for a new functional colorant.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.21-32
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to establish the idea of sustainable slow design by analyzing literatures and preceding cases, based on the external elements of a design including forms, the methods of expression, materials and colors. This study reviewed the previous literature of books and pictures related to the research for case studies and content analysis. fashion books, magazines, and web-sites published from 2000 to 2005 were analyzed for this research. The sustainable slow design trends in fashion can be summarized as follow. The first is a timeless style which has sustain ability in design independently of the versatile fads and relies on functionality, serving the purpose of design. One of the examples is both clothes designed by Burberry and suits by Chanel. The second is a hand-touch style which the more time for outputs can be positively tolerated, in favor on eco-friendly design through the techniques of manual arts. The third is a renewable design which the combined values of design with reuse and renewal result in recreation of past ecology as shown in the technique of designs by mix & match. The forth is a transformable design which features the multi-purpose and multi-forms, eventually extending the lift cycle of products. As a result of analysis of the four designs above, it can be inferred that the representation of past styles, the mixture of old design with new design, the appropriate combination of conventional fabrics with advanced ones, the ecological trends of sports look was emerging.