• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.7-16
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• 2011

Maximalism is the code which has a power to interpret a fashion phenomenon expressed complexly and variously in the multicultural society. In the 21st century, maximalism which reappeared is not the expression by a method only. It is presenting the experimental design for the new pursuit through the mixture such as expansion, splendor, variety, decoration, distortion of configuration or transformation, and composition. Therefore, this study aims at analyzing expression of fashion design by four types(expansion, decoration, mixture, non-structure) materializing a feature of maximalism expressed in the domestic and foreign collection works from 2005 to 2010. The research results are as follows. 1. Expansion: It was showed artificial, formative, unique, and odd teatures through the expansion of the upper half of the body, the lower half of the body, and both of them. 2. Decoration: It was showed the actual decoration considering functionality and practicality and the decoration emphasizing and unique character and featuring domination and emphasis. 3. Mixture: It was showed through the mixture of the contrary textiles or the different sex image. 4. Non-structure: It showed the non-structure of the avant-garde trend and non-structure through decoration, detail, adjustment direction of a dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.7
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• pp.987-994
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• 2000

Cotton fabrics were finished with mixture of BTCA and silicone by pad-dry-cure process to achieve better mechanical properties than those of finished with BTCA alone. The changes of mechanical properties o( finished cotton fabrics were measured with by the KES-FB System and the hand values were calculated from the data of mechanical properties. With the durable press finish with BTCA tensile, bending, shear and compression properties increased. In hand values, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness increased, and Fullness & Softness decreased. Whereas silicone treatment reduced bending and shear properties and improved tensile and compressional resilience. Thus, Stiffness Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness decreased, and Fullness & Softness increased. These results indicated that BTCA treatment restricts fiber/yarn mobility in the fabric structure due to crosslinking, but silicone treatment reduces inter-fiber and inter-yarn frictional forces. Therefore, finish with mixture of BTCA and silicone provided cotton fabrics with a lower Stiffness, Crispness and Anti-Drape Stiffness and a higher Fullness & Softnesss than finish with BTCA alone.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.420-426
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• 2006

Korean prior studies on smart clothing seeking complete mixture of clothing and computer with diverse functions in the ubiquitous environment were so mere, while there have been aggressive activities to develop diverse smart clothing products led by the relevant industries and universities in foreign countries. Given prospective growth of the smart clothing market, there should be customers' evaluation of functions and utility of and sensitivity to smart clothing as well. This study conducted a questionnaire to Korean customers in their twenties regarding their perception and liking of and willingness to use smart clothing, and examined the needs of new functions of smart clothing. As a result, the customers in their twenties turned out to like well-designed and comfortable clothing, and be exposed to diverse and continuous computing environment. Also, they have relatively low perception but considerably high liking of smart clothing, indicating their high willingness to use smart clothing products. They cited 'selectable functions' and 'mobile and convenient ' as merits, and 'too expensive' and 'easy to wash' as demerits of smart clothing. In the respect, they proposed many interesting smart clothing ideas, such as 'clothing with automatic temperature-sensing function, which gets higher heat- insulating function by tightening the textile structure in winter and higher ventilating function by loosening the textile structure in summer.' We hope the results of this study will serve basic data for development of more efficient smart clothing in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.891-900
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• 2001

The purpose of this study were to evaluate the physical properties and dyeability of cellulase and alkali(NaOH, KOH) treated ramie/man-made fiber mixture fabrics. The mixture fabrics were plain weave made by rayon and polyester fiber as warp yarn, and ramie as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength, and water absorbancy were measured for test fabrics. The K/S value of dyed fabrics were calculated using color difference meter. Also colorfastness to washing and sunlight of dyed fabrics were evaluated. The results obtained from this study were as follows: Thickness and weight per unit area of alkali treated two mixture fabrics(rayon/ramie, polyester/ramie) increased compared to those of untreated fabrics, but cellulase treated fabrics did not changed a little. And alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics showed more change than polyester/ramie mixture fabrics on the thickness and weight. Tensile strength and water absorbancy of cellulase treated fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance increased. Crease resistance, tensile strength(warp direction), water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated polyester/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance and tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Tensile strength of KOH treated two mixture fabrics increased compared to that of untreated, but water absorbancy and drape decreased. Total hand of cellulase and alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics was improved compared to untreated. Dyeability of treated mixture fabrics was increased compared to untreated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.569-575
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• 2005

The objective of this study is to consider the concept of postmodernism and the characteristics concerning the stage of the development, and to investigate the effect of the postmodernism on the clothing. Postmodernism is the result of the late capitalism and its characteristics are the narrative, mixture and deconstruction. First, since it is impossible to express the social culture of various society through one theoretical disclosure, the novel value on the narrative is provided and its characteristics arise. Hence, the society becomes afford to accept the other and provides the novel value to the absolute sub-concept. Second, the recognization and emphasis of the narrative in the post modem society bring about the repulsion as to the strict classification between the high culture and low one established from modernism and the closure between each genre of the art, and this causes to raise the composed characteristics which borrow or mix the style and image of different age and culture. Third, the deconstructive feature arises which eliminates the boundary between the high and low class, the past and future and the destruction and construction. This means not only anther recomposition but also skeptical attitude about it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.356-365
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• 1995

study was made to investigate the emulsification and rolling-up between liquid oily soils and surfactant and its effect on the detergency. Samples used were triolein as a triglyceride, oleic acid as a free fatty acid and sodium dodecyl sUJfate(SDS) as a surfactant. The results were as follows: 1. The spontaneous emulsification occurred in the system of oleic acid alone and mixture of triolein and oleic acid contacted with 0.5% SDS solution, but it did not occurred in a case of triolein alone. 2. The stability of emulsification increased with the increase of SDS concentration. And the stability of emulsification and (-) t value increased in the order of triolein < mixture of triolein and oleic and< oleic acid. 3. The rolling-up mechanism of model oily soils easily occurred in the order of triolein< mixture of triolein and oleic acid< oleic acid, and facilitated with the increase of SDS concentration. On the other hand, the complex formation was already observed in the system of oleic and 0.5% SDS solution. 4. As compared with the detergency of triolein, the detergency of oleic acid was very high. And the detergency of mixed soil was improved with increasing ratio of oleic acid in the mixture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.433-445
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• 2017

This study uses a macro-viewpoint to investigate how female world leaders' clothing behaviors are different by nation and culture. This study conducted a comparative study on clothing behavior by cultural block in order to understand similarities and differences based on Hofstede's cultural dimensions theory. The findings are as follows. First, the clothing styles of female world leaders are categorized into classical suit style, national traditional style, and eclectic style. Second, classic suit style is more often found in countries characterized by high individualism, low power distance index, and low avoidance index. The style represents individual activity and rationality as well as trust towards women acting in men's roles. Third, a national traditional style is found in countries featuring high collectivism, high power distance index, and high uncertainty avoidance index. These countries share a culture that emphasizes harmony with the whole, rather than any one given part; consequently, clothing style represents a national identity (or the roles as a national member) rather than that of the individual level. Fourth, an eclectic clothing style is expressed in a mixture of classical suits and a national traditional style that depends on how much Eastern and Western cultures are reasonably compromised or Eastern tradition and Western culture coexist.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.1-13
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• 2007

The cold image of digital culture and its realistic limits force modern people to yearn for an emotional world characterized by a warm humanity. The kind of digital technology that appeals to such a human emotion is accepted as a new digital concept in the 21st century. The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristics of emotionality, which was a new trend in digital culture, and to discuss its form and meaning in fashion sector. It's basically meant to figure out a major trend in the 21st century's digital culture, to delve into its relationship with fashion reflecting sociocultural phenomena, and ultimately to describe in which direction future fashion would be led. Emotionality was highlighted as a reaction against an absolute pursuit of speed and cold digital technology. Emotionality of digital culture in fashion design were inserting of funology, Zen-based design and development of a clothing mixture. The emphasis of emotionality in digital culture is a new sociocultural trend that stresses the recovery of human nature. As futurologists predict that a human-centered and humanistic culture will reappear in the 21st century, fashion also will be in pursuit of human-oriented design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.11
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• pp.1410-1420
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze characteristics of effective expression on T-shirts pattern by peirce's semiotic theory. The methods of this study was to analyze 721 T-shirts patterns in designer's collection from 2000 to 2004. The results of this study were as follows: First of all, iconic expression showed high frequency after 2000. Characteristics of effective expression were as follows: In geometric expression, repetition was presented as a symbolic sign by regular proportion and rule of dot, line, plane, irregularity, mixture of irregular dot, line, plane. Mixed expression was presented as a iconic and symbolic sign by collage, mixture of dot, line, plane, icon and letter. In iconic expression, simplification of iconic sigrl was presented as a iconic sign by simplification of form, color, texture, realistic expression using digital as a iconic sign, and symbolic face, body as a symbolic sign. Pop art's expression was presented as a iconic sign by a cartoon and commercial character and illusion was presented as a iconic sign. In letter's expression, brand logo was presented as a symbolic sign by transformation of letter's design, a symbolic sign of numeral by transformation of size, thickness, form, color. Symbolic message phrase was presented by slogan, fashion trend, brand image, descriptive indication message as a index sign by using icon or singleness. In conclusion, characteristics of effective expression on T-shirts pattern will present not only the theoretical foundation to raise the value added, but also the information about beauty sense of times, political and social value.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

The crossover in fashion refers to the coordination of different items, each with a different atmosphere. In a broad sense, it is the mutual exchange across the existing areas, that is, the creation of a new style by disparate and opposite elements coexisting in a look. This paper studies typical features of the crossover shown in modern fashion based on sub-culture by examining the concept and formation factors of the crossover through social aspects rather than particular art modes to predict the current fashion and suggest a new direction. Crossover fashion appeared in social and cultural environments, has four characteristics : the visual discordance of sexes, the appearance of the lingerie look, the mixture of folk style, and the appearance of the reactionary mode. The crossover, appeared in sub-cultures and diffused into the public, may be considered the creation of a new sense of beauty and a possibility for the future. It is expected to keep expanding ifs range in fashion, since it is an expression of human will to restore liberal sensibility not confined to formality.