• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.389-400
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• 1997

Name and change of style of Chopni were inspected to understand transformation of Chosun costume. During Chosun era Chopni had two significant roles(general) daily clothes and Yungbok; prior to the mid-Chosun it was largely used as daily clothes but after the mid-Chosun it was mainly used as Yungbok, In the case of daily clothes Chopni was utilized as under-coat among various coats and had the name of Chopni symbolizing function of clothes. In the case of YUNGBOK it was used as outer clothing of military men had the name of Cholik symbolizing form of clothes. These facts represent that emphasis was placed on beauty in the case of YUNGBOK to confer ceremonial meaning as outer clothes. In transformation of costume examining by change of Chopni we can see that name and style are changed with role of clothes That is when clothes is used as under such as under-coat name and style mainly represent function whereas they mainly represent beauty when used as outer clothes such as YUNGBOK In addition change of role might be considered as an independent variable which changed name and style dependently. That is change of style produced change of name and time lay between change of style and change of name was found to be about 1 centry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.108-123
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate costumes worn by high government officials which are illustrated in Tamna Sullyeokdo at the era of King Sukjong of the Joseon Dynasty. The findings of the study are as fellows: 1. Tamna Sullyeokdo showed that Moksa wore an simplified version of Jobok at a congratulatory ceremony. They wore Sibok at such events as examinations, Yeonhyang or Jinsang. Particularly at Yeonhyang, Samo was decorated with some red flowers. The officials wore Yungbok when they were participated in military training, hunting or arrow shooting competitions. They wore Pyeonbok when they go on a trip 2. Pangwan wore Sibok when they took an examination. They wore Yungbok during military training while they wore Pyeonbok during Tamseung. 3. Hyeongam wore Sangbok at a congratulatory ceremony. When they take part in military training, examinations, Yeonhyang or Jinsang, those officials wore Sibok. They also wore Yungbok during military training, Yeonhyang or Jinsang. They wore Jurip decorated with some red flowers during Yeonhyang. And they wore Pyeonbok when they were inspecting military training of Seongjeonggun. 4. Gungwan wore Yungbok at every events. They wore Jurip decorated with Hosu and Jeonrip on their head, and wore Cheolrik during military drills, arrow shooting competitions, examinations, Jinsang, or Tamseung. They wore Jeonip decored with red flowers during Yeonhyang. During regular military trainings, those officials wore Jeonrip decorated with Sangmo on their head and wore Cheolrik and Jeonbok. During Tamseung, they wore Jeonrip decorated with Sangmo on their head and wore Jeonbok with Jungchimak or a set of Jeogori and Baji.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.100-114
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• 2007

This study reports the dress style of Daesarye ceremony participants in the Yeong-Jo Era. The King Yeong-jo attending the archery practice ceremony wears Ikseonkwan(翼善冠), Golryongpo(袞龍袍), Okdae(玉帶), and Heukpihwa(黑皮靴) while royal family members and officers in the ceremony wear Heukdalryeong(黑團領). Each officer in Sangbok(常服) who shoots arrows wears a ring and a wristlet with an archery case on his waist. King's bodyguards wear Yungbok(戎服) or Sangbok(常服). Especially, Muyaebyeolgam(武藝別監) wears Hong-geon(紅巾) and a green Jikryeong(直領). Yujiang-gun(儀位軍) wear Pirip(皮笠) and Hongjuryi(紅紬衣) while Hyeopryeongun(狹輦軍) and Hyeopryeogun(狹輦軍) wear Hong-geon(紅巾), Hongyui((紅衣), Cheonghaengjeon(靑行纏), Hakchang(鶴雲), Hongmokdae(紅木帶), and Unhye(雲鞋). Gyeonmabae(牽馬陪) wear Hwangchorip(黃草笠) and Hwangyui(黃衣). Seupjeongun(拾箭軍) and Hwaekja(獲子) wear Jageon(紫巾), Jayui(紫衣), and Unhye(雲鞋). Jeonak(典樂) wears Mora- bokdu and Noksayui(綠抄衣), while Ak-kong(樂工) wear Hwahwabokdu, Hongjuyui(紅紬衣), Ojeongdae, and Heukpihwa(黑皮靴). Lastly, Hyeopryulrang(協律郎) wears Heukdalryeong(黑團領).

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.78-97
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• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of military night training on February 12th (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the characteristics and of the costumes worn by various types of officials were examined. There were 34 officials located near King Jeongjo in and around Seojangdae, with 27 Dangsanggwan and 7 Danghagwan. They wore three types of costumes, including armor, yungbok, and military uniforms. All of the twelve armor wearers and the five officials wearing yungbok were dangsanggwan, and the military uniform wearers included eleven dangsanggwan and six danghagwan. For the shape of the armor, the armor relics of General Yeoban, suitable for riding horses, and the armor painting of Muyedobotongji were referenced, and the composition of the armor was based on practicality. The armor consists of a helmet, a suit of armor, a neck guard, armpit guards, arm guards, and a crotch guard. The color of the armor was red and green, which are the most frequently used colors in Seojangdaeyajodo. The composition of yungbok was jurip, navy cheollik, red gwangdahoe, socks made of leather, and suhwaja. The composition of the military uniform was a lined jeolrip, dongdari, jeonbok, yodae, jeondae, and suhwaja. There were differences in the fabrics used in dangsanggwan and danghagwan military uniforms. Dangsanggwan used fabric with depictions of clouds and jewels, and danghagwan used unpatterned fabric. Moreover, jade, gold, and silver were used for detailed ornamental materials in dangsanggwan. The weapons included bows and a bow case, a sword, a rattan stick, wrist straps, and a ggakji. In the records of the King Jeongjo period, various colored heopsu were mentioned; the colors of the dongdari and jeonbok of dangsanggwan and danghagwan were referenced in various colors. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could be used to produce objects accurately reflecting the above historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the modeling standards for 3D content production. Samples of form, color, and material of the corresponding times and statuses were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and its accessories were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.45-60
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• 2008

This study reports a court dress culture in 1719 shown in the Scene of a Royal Banquet given by the King at Gyeong-hyeon-dang(景賢堂) of Gisagyecheop(耆社契帖). It can be summarized as follows: First, King Suk-jong(肅宗) attending a Royal Banquet for members of the Hall of Elder Statement wore the Ikseonkwan decorated with flowers, red Gollyongpo, Okdae, and Heukpiwha. The Crown Prince(王世子) also wore the Ikseonkwan decorated with flowers, black Goliyongpo, Okdae, and Heukpiwha. Second, senior statesmen(耆老臣) over the age 70 wore Sarno, Heukdallyeong with a crane rank tablet, belt, and black boots. Royal family members and officers also wore Samo, Heukdallyeong with a crane or silver pheasant rank tablet, belt, and black boots. Third, Sakum(司禁) of King's body guards wore Yungbok and Muyaebyulgam(武藝別監) wore Ja-geon and the green Jikryeong. Ui-jang-gun(儀仗軍) wore Pirip and Hongui, Haengjeon, and Unhae. Saboksikwan(司僕侍官) wore Samo, Heukdallyeong, belt, black boots, and a sword. Fourth, boy dancers(舞童) wore Buyongkwan, Kwanbok, skirt, belt, and black boots. Cheoyong-dancers(處容舞童) wore outfits in fine colors, wide pants, skirt, mask with an earring, gold colored belt, and white colored sandal. Hyeopryulrang(協律郞) wore Sarno and Heukdallyeong. Jipbak(執拍) wore Morabokdu and Noksaui, and Ak-kong(樂工) wore Whawhabokdu, Hongju-ui, Ojungdae, and Heukpiwha. Singer(歌童) wore Jajeok-dugeon, nokju-ui, and jajeokdae.