• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.6 s.59
• /
• pp.896-909
• /
• 2005

In need of studies on the kinds and structure of thread, the biggest variable factor in knitwear patterns, this study attempts: to examine the physical properties by thread type to basically establish systematic data in order to utilize various mixture and structure of yarn and to contribute to the development of optical patterns by building a systemic and scientific methods to produce knit wear patterns though a statistical analysis of the relation between the variations and physical properties. The results is as follows: with time, a feature of knit, which causes instability making it difficult to maintain the original shape, related to material properties, the weight and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the variation of wale lengths, though the amount varies by material. The variation of course contraction is closely related to density, the dense fabrics showing the highest values, due to the bust of the human body, the wale length variation of the front is greater than that of the back, by a regression analysis of material properties and the variations is obtained showing the weight, density and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the wale extension and course contraction of knit.

• 연구논문집
• /
• s.29
• /
• pp.111-121
• /
• 1999

Weft insertion and Beating mechanism which weaves fabric with completion the pattern of warp yarn and weft yarn in the high speed rapier loom is driven by cam operating method. This mechanism has 4 cams on the coaxial line for driving. These cams form a pair by two. and perform a conjugate motion with each other. By this reason, it is necessary for two pairs to realize the synchronized motion through exact and optimal design. From this viewpoint, to analysis the whole cams' movement and to realize the high speed of rapier loom, I tried to develop the computer aided simulation program. In this study, I would like to introduce the simulation program about above-mentioned 4 kinds of cam mechanism which can display the profiles of 2 pairs of cam mechanism not to speak of mutual relationships of their movement on the monitor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.3 s.102
• /
• pp.42-56
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to review the literatures and the wall paintings of the ancient tombs of Koguryo in an effort to try to understand the characteristics of the culture of dyeing in Koguryo. The research findings follow: 1. The colors that were in vogue in Koguryo are five cardinal colors (red, blue, white, black, and yellow) and compound colors, like purple and green. Those colors were used in some or all parts of the clothing and even on some parts of the body. 2. Some clothing of Koguryo as shown in the wall paintings were made with a single and solid color by dip dyeing method. But the majority of the clothing had a variety of patterns. Among the patterns, the geometrical dot pattern took the majority. 3. The dyeing techniques used in Koguryo were printing, yarn dyeing, embroidery, wax resist dyeing, drawing and painting. The development of yarn dyeing method, weaving with silk-threads dyed in various colors, enabled to produce Geum fabrics, which were used for the upper classes' clothing. 4. The esthetic features represented in the colors of Koguryo include the beauty of contrast coloring, preference for red, preference for geometrical patterns, and the harmony of yin and yang.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.9 no.4
• /
• pp.445-449
• /
• 2007

The results of warmth retaining, heat transfer and compressive elastic recovery of the five kinds of bedspread fabrics, which were produced from packing weft of 2700 denier and 3600 denier batt yarn treated with raw material of Polyester $150^D$/48 DTY, are as follows: 1) 3600 denier packing weft showed lover count in compressive elastic recovery than 2700d packing weft, so it took longer time to recover. 2) When packing weft of the same count is used, a sample of packing weft with higher density showed lower recovery. 3) It took 2700d packing weft 30min to get approximately 98% recovery in temperature $30^{\circ}C$. But, 3600d packing weft stayed under 98% recovery in the same temperature. Considering only the result of compressive elastic recovery, we should use 2700d packing weft. 4) The higher the density of packing weft is, the higher warmth retaining becomes. Although sharp increase appeared until 5min, equilibrium was kept without any increase after that time. 5) When 2700d packing weft was used, the maximum warmth retaining was approximately 60% and 64% in the conditions of density 12(thread/in) and 22(thread/in) respectively.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.17 no.5 s.84
• /
• pp.45-52
• /
• 2005

The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2009.03a
• /
• pp.229-230
• /
• 2009

Recently the demand for wool has been gradually decreasing due to global warming, oil depletion, Coolbiz campaign to reduce CO2 emission, and preference for business casual wear, while the price for wool materials has been constantly increasing. Wool, characterized by the natural touch and unique sensibility, is considered as one of the best natural materials, including silk. For wool, currently Korea almost depends on import from foreign countries. Therefore, 100% wool products cannot be competitive in terms of pricing and current trend. To secure sustaining competitiveness in the fiber market, it is required not only to develop new wool materials that enable expression of new sensibility that cannot be expressed by conventional wool fibers, but also to pursue differentiation of fundamental sensibility and functionality by highlighting advantages for wool as a natural fiber but by reducing its disadvantages through dominant conjugation with synthetic fibers. This study attempted to improve the technology of differentiating wool-like synthetic fibers such as polyester and combine technology with sensibility through mixing with wool materials. It also aimed to develop wool-like stretch materials and pre-treating and yarn dyeing technologies that enable fabrics to main natural wool-like touch and stretch, and ultimately to develop wool mixed fabrics that have new sensibility and functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.2
• /
• pp.299-307
• /
• 2009

The purposes of this study ate to evaluate sensibility performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. The sensibility performances such as sensory, touch preference and buying preference for memory fabrics of the metallic Jacquard fabrics were evaluated, and mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. The correlation between the mechanical properties and the sensibility performance were analyzed. As the metal fiber content increased, the sensory evaluation value of lustered, wrinkly, sandy, rustle and stiff increased, the sensory evaluation value of slippery and damp decreased. As the metal fiber content increased, the touch preference decreased and the buying preference increased. The touch preference had negative correlation with the metal fiber content, but the buying preference had positive correlation with it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.63-75
• /
• 1993

Partially oriented polyester yarn (PET POY) was treated in the unrestrained state using various solvents at different temperatures. Interactions between PET POY & solvents were estimated by the changes of microstructure, morphology and mechanical properties. The correlation between the changes of microstructure & morphology and the changes of mechanical properties was also studied. TCE, Dioxane, O-DCB, DMF, and BA were found to be active solvents, while Iso-AA and water were found to be weak solvents. PET POY was affected mainly by the solvents when treated with active solvents and affected mainly by heat when treated with weak solvents. Changes by the solvent treatment in microstructure and morphology were : an increase in crystallinity, a change in birefringence, a shrinkage in length, and a change in DSC curve. As for the changes in mechanical properties, findings in the PET POY when treated with solvents were : a decrease in stress-at-break, a change in yield stress, an increase in strain-at-break & yield strain, and a decrease in initial modulus. Changes in microstructure and morphology directly affected the mechanical properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.20 no.5
• /
• pp.783-791
• /
• 1996

The effect of alkali treatment on the changes in characteristics, mechanical properties, and hand of polyester fabrics was studied. Two kinds of fabrics having different yarn deniers were treated varying weight loss. The results were as follows; 1. Changes in constructional characteristics by alkali treatment were: a decrease in weight & thickness of fabric, a decrease in yarn denier, a decrease in apparent density of fabric, an increase in porosity to air, and a change fiber surface. 2. As for the changes in mechanical properties by alkali treatment, findings were : an increase in WT, RT, MIU, LC, and WC, a decrease in LT, B,2HB, G,2HG,2HGS, MMD, SMD, and RC, ana an increase in drape. 3. Changes in hand by alkali treatment were: a decrease in KOSHI and HARE, an increase in FUUURAMI, SHARI, KISHIMI, and SHENAYAUASA, and an increase in T.H.V 4. In the case of the same weight loss, the hand of 40/24 fabric being composed of thinner yarns was better than the hand of 50/24 fabric. 5. When 50/24 fabric was treated to have the same weight with 40/24 fabric, so the yam deniers of two fabrics were the same, the hand of 50/24 fabric having larger weight loss was better than the hand of 40/24 fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.37 no.5
• /
• pp.715-723
• /
• 2013

This develops a new and advanced S/S knitwear material made of linen/bamboo blended yarn. Linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were compared with linen/polyester knitted fabrics in terms of appearance as well as physical and comfort properties. Rib knitted fabrics were remarkably thicker than plain knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics based on polyester yarns were heavier than those based on bamboo yarn. The porosity decreased in the following order: linen 100% > bamboo 100% > polyester 100%. The drape properties of bamboo 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The pilling resistances of linen 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The highest and lowest air permeability was observed in the case of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics and polyester 100% knitted fabrics, respectively. The instant cool-feeling was enhanced as the bamboo yarns were blended. The thermal conductivity of linen 100% knitted fabrics was the highest and the thermal conductivity of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics was higher than linen/polyester knitted fabrics. Bamboo 100% knitted fabrics showed a higher moisture regain than polyester 100% knitted fabrics. The results confirmed the superior appearance and comfort of a novel S/S knit wear material made of linen/bamboo knitted fabric.