• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.255-265
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the dyeing properties of four kinds of composite yams that were twisted in different processes. The composite yarns consist of acetate and functional polyester in ratio of 70 : 30. The composite yams were dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ and 125$^{circ}C$ using three types of dyes, disperse dyes for acetate fiber, PET fiber and PET-acetate blended fiber, in the three primary colors. The exhaustion($\%$) and K/S value were observed for each case. Also the effects of four different twisting processes to dyeing properties and physical properties were examined. Regardless of twisting methods, the composite yarns that were dyed at 125$^{circ}C$ had higher exhaustion($\%$) than those were dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ with all three types of dyes; However, tendency of the K/S value after reduction cleaning process was measured at 100$^{circ}C$ and the value measured 125$^{circ}C$ had a great difference with disperse dyes for acetate and dyes for PET. The difference of the K/S values of composite yarns, when dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ and 125$^{circ}C$ with disperse dyes for PET-acetate blended fiber, was almost negligible. According to twisting methods K/S values were in the following order: AP1 > AP3 > AP4> AP2. This means that AP1, treated at 220$^{circ}C$, had the highest K/S value and K/S value becomes higher as the yam is higher twisted and becomes lower as lower twisted. On the other hand, the dry shrinkage and wet shrinkage showed low shrinkage rate when the twist was high and steam setting temperature was high.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.5
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• pp.430-436
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• 2000

The purpose of the study was to obtain the basic data on the self-adjusting ability of the support panty stockings. Ten healthy women in the twenties were selected as subjects and clothing pressure of 9 support panty stockings made of single covered yarn (SCY) and double covered yarn (DCY) were measured under the standard environmental condition for the study. Data was analysed statistically according to body postures, sides, and parks. The results were as follows: Clothing pressure according to body posture was order of 'sitting-on-a-chair', 'stepping-up-a-stair', and 'standing'. High clothing pressure was obtained in the parts of calf ($9.4gf/cm^2$) in 'standing' and knee (9.7 and $16.5gf/cm^2$) in both 'stepping-up-a-stair' and 'sitting-on-a-chair', respectively. The order of clothing pressure with body sides was 'front', 'side', and 'back'. The highest clothing pressure was knee ($18.8gf/cm^2$) on the front, thigh ($8.8gf/cm^2$) on the side, and calf ($6.4gf/cm^2$) on the back. Clothing pressure of DCY at abdomen and knee was a little higher than those of SCY 3. In terms of material structure variation, clothing pressure of thigh, calf and ankle with SCY was a little higher than those with DCY, while clothing pressure of abdomen and knee with DCY was a little higher than those with SCY.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• Proceedings of the Korean Vacuum Society Conference
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• 2012.02a
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• pp.200-200
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• 2012

We investigated a flexible transparent film using the spinning multi-walled carbon nanotubes (MWCNTs). Spin-capable MWCNTs on iron catalyzed on a SiO2 wafer was grown by chemical vapor deposition, which was performed at $780^{\circ}C$ using C2H2 and H2 gas. The average diameter and length of MWCNTs grown on the substrate were ~15 nm and $250{\sim}300{\mu}m$, respectively. The MWCNT sheets were produced by continuously pulling out from well-aligned MWCNTs on a substrate. The MWCNT sheet films were produced simply by direct coating on the flexible film or grass. The thickness of sheet film was remarkably decreased by alcohol spraying on the surface of sheet. The alcohol splay increased transmittance and decreased electrical resistance of MWCNT sheet films. Single and double sheets were produced with sheet resistance of ~699 and ${\sim}349{\Omega}/sq$, respectively, transmittance of 81~85 % and 67~72%, respectively. The MWCNT sheet films were heated through the application of direct current power. The flexible transparent heaters showed a rapid thermal response and uniform distribution of temperature. In addition, MWCNT yarns were prepared by spinning a bundle of MWCNTs from vertically super-aligned MWCNTs on a substrate, and field emission from the tip and side of the yarns was induced in a scanning electron microscope. We found that the field emission behavior from the tip of the yarn was better than the field emission from the side. The field emission turn-on voltages from the tip and side of MWCNT yarns were 1.6 and $1.7V/{\mu}m$, respectively, after the yarn was subjected to an aging process. Both the configuration of the tip end and the body of the yarn were changed remarkably during the field emission. We also performed the field emission of the sheet films. The sheet films showed the turn on voltage of ${\sim}1.45V/{\mu}m$ during the field emission.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• Macromolecular Research
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.378-387
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• 2009

This research compared three methods for producing and processing nanocomposite polypropylene filament yarns with permanent antimicrobial efficiency. The three methods used to mix antimicrobial agents based on silver nano particles with PP were as follows: 1) mixing of PP powder and inorganic nanocomposite filler with the appropriate concentration using a twin-screw extruder and preparing granules, 2) method 1 with a singlerather than twin-screw extruder, and 3) producing the masterbatch by a twin-screw extruder and blending it with PP in the melt spinning process. All pure polypropylene samples and other combined samples had an acceptable spinnability at the spinning temperature of $240^{\circ}C$ and take-up speed of 2,000 m/min. After producing as-spun filament yarns by a pilot plant, melt spinning machine, the samples were drawn, textured and finally weft knitted. The physical and structural properties (e.g., linear density, tenacity, breaking elongation, initial modulus, rupture work, shrinkage and crystallinity) of the as-spun and drawn yarns with constant and variable draw ratios (the variable draw ratio was used to gain a constant breaking elongation of 50%) were investigated and compared, while DSC, SEM and FTIR techniques were used to characterize the samples. Finally, the antibacterial efficiency of the knitted samples was evaluated. The experimental results revealed that the crystallinity reduction of the as-spun yarn obtained from method 1 (5%) was more than that of method 2 (3%), while the crystallinity of the modified as-spun yarns obtained with method 3 remained unchanged compared to pure yarn. However, the drawing procedure compensated for this difference. By applying methods 2 and 3, the drawing generally improved the tenacity and modulus of the modified fibers, whereas method 1 degraded the constant draw ratio. Although the biostatic efficiency of the nanocomposite yarns was excellent with all three methods, the modified fabrics obtained from methods 1 and 2 showed a higher bioactivity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.444-451
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• 2013

This paper surveys the physical properties of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid air-jet textured yarns(ATY) for protective garments according to wet and dry texturing conditions. Aramid and nylon filaments were used to make two kinds of para-aramid ATY and four kinds of aramid/nylon hybrid ATY with dry and wet treatments. The analyzed physical properties of six specimens (made on the ATY machine) are as follows. The tenacity and initial modulus of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY decreased with the wetting and breaking strain; however, the yarn linear density of aramid and hybrid ATY increased with wetting treatment. The dry and wet thermal shrinkage of the hybrid ATY increased with wetting. The stability of aramid and hybrid ATY also increased with wetting. The physical properties of core/effect type hybrid ATY showed significantly more change than the core type hybrid ATY and the physical properties of nylon/aramid core/effect hybrid ATY showed significantly more change than the of aramid/nylon core/effect hybrid ATY. A higher bulky and breaking strain of hybrid ATY require ATY processing conditions of nylon on the core part with wetting and aramid on the effect part. ATY processing conditions for nylon and aramid on the core part with wetting are required for a higher tenacity and modulus. ATY processing conditions of nylon and aramid on the core with no wetting are required for a low thermal shrinkage.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.503-515
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• 2018

In this research, the three-dimensional structural and colorimetrical modeling of yarn-dyed woven fabrics was conducted based on the Kubelka-Munk theory (K-M theory) for their accurate color predictions. In the K-M theory for textile color formulation, the absorption and scattering coefficients, denoted K and S, respectively, of a colored fabric are represented using those of the individual colorants or color components used. One-hundred forty woven fabric samples were produced in a wide range of structures and colors using red, yellow, green, and blue yarns. Through the optimization of previous two-dimensional color prediction models by considering the key three-dimensional structural parameters of woven fabrics, three three-dimensional K/S-based color prediction models, that is, linear K/S, linear log K/S, and exponential K/S models, were developed. To evaluate the performance of the three-dimensional color prediction models, the color differences, ${\Delta}L^*$, ${\Delta}C^*$, ${\Delta}h^{\circ}$, and ${\Delta}E_{CMC(2:1)}$, between the predicted and the measured colors of the samples were calculated as error values and then compared with those of previous two-dimensional models. As a result, three-dimensional models have proved to be of substantially higher predictive accuracy than two-dimensional models in all lightness, chroma, and hue predictions with much lower ${\Delta}L^*$, ${\Delta}C^*$, ${\Delta}h^{\circ}$, and the resultant ${\Delta}E_{CMC(2:1)}$ values.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.66-71
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• 1986

The studies were carried out to screen the optimum conditions for enzymatic degumming of raw silk yarn and silk fabric by use of Alkalase, a protease produced by Bacteria, comparing with Papain and Trypsin representing natural proteolytic enzymes. 1. The optimum temperature and acidity of degumming solution were 70$^{\circ}C$, pH 5-6 for Papain degumming, 40$^{\circ}C$, pH 8 for Trypsin and 50-60$^{\circ}C$ pH 8-9 for Alkalase. 2. By increasing the Alkalase concentration in the range of 0.6 to 1.0 gram per liter, the time for enzymatic degumming of silk yarn could be reduced by 40 minutes. 3. In degumming of silk yarn by Alkalase, the pretreatment of 95$^{\circ}C$, 10 minutes at 0.1% sodium bicarbonate solution or posttreatent of 80$^{\circ}C$, 20 minutes at 2% (o.w.f.) sodium silicate solution improved the efficiency of enzymatic degumming, as compared to that of nontreatment. 4. The breaking strength, elongation and Lousiness results of enzymatically degummed silk yarn were apt to be improved more than those of soap-degummed one. 5. When the pretreatment of alkaline solution was done with over 20% of degumming ratio, the enzymatic degumming efficiency of both Havutae and Crepe de chine could be reached to the same level with those of soap-soda degummed. 6. As the pretreated silk fabric with 20% of degumming ratio was under action of three proteases, respectively, the deumming efficiency of Havutae and Crepe de chine were completed by Alkalase more than by Papain or Trpysin. 7. The stiffness of enzymatically degummed Crepe de chine was not only reduced by 17% more than that of soap-soda degummed one but also the Drape coefficient was decreased in enzymatically degummed fabrics, which was closely related with the soft touch of degummed fabrics.