• 한국농공학회지
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• 제41권6호
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• pp.54-63
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• 1999

Considering that rural village had evolved through a long-sustained effort of harmnization with nature, there should be the wisdom not only to reflect the level of rural resident's housing demand, but also to conserve the traditional characteristics of high-valuation in the modern rural housing. In Korea , standard design proposals of rural houses had been made public three times ; in 1972 , 1984 and 1995. so , firstly, this study analysed the inner-space layouts of design proposals mentioned above, from which changes and problems in the past housing design were derived. And also, through, the positive acceptance of residents' opinion living inthe houses built by standard design proposals in 1970 ~1980's, improved design principles and an alternative model were proposed , finally. The inner-space structed of standard design proposals in 1970s was originated from small-scaled and low-priced one, basically under the " open system". In 1980s, the basic design principle changed to the 'closed system' in which the living room being the focus of indoor family life, and , in 1990s, progressively, therural housing developed to the high qualified type by the spatial enlargement and with increased equipements. However, this structural change of rural house brought about the problem of functional separatioon between farming and daily living activities. In details, limited spaces of multipurpose spaces and sanitary facility would be mentioned as problems for improvement. conclusively in this study, newoly arranged "open system" was recommended , as a basic design principle for theinner space structure formation of rural house, which easily links the constituent inner-house spaces to outer one. Based on this principle, the detailed design criterial was proposed as follows ; 1. The living room be directly linked to the front-yard and centrally placed, the addtional space of which could be secured for the special family events by the flexibleuse of its adjacent room or by the housing of male quarters(separated from main building quarter). 2. The kitchen also be directly linked to side-yard and to livng room , for the convenience of farming activities and the shortening of path flow housewife. 3. The expanded toilet-and-bathroom be placed in the directly connected left-hand side to the living room and also be allowed access through multipurpose spaces to out door. 4. The multipurpose spaces be directly connected to the kitchen and the toilet and-bathroom , of which function would be for undressing of working clothes, quickwashing and ordinary working.nd ordinary working.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2002

This paper is the second part of a series of the research about the Teddy boy style which is to examine various fashion changes in subcultural styles in 1900s. The main concern of this research is to investigate the creation and meaning of the Teddy boy style, how it interacted with the elements of class and generation and how the materials needed by the group constructed and appropriated into the visible systematic cultural form of correspondence. The Teddy Boys are the first recognized members of the British youth culture, which is known as the new Edwardian because of their dress. They had created the concept of the "teenagers," which forms the basis of the sense of a "generation" in the 20th century. The Teds set the style that would be used and modified in the following generations. They adopted the Edwardian style of the upper class, and changed it into their own style by modifying it and adding to it some other elements. The Teddy boys style is a special version of the sartorial appropriation encountered in the sphere of the fashion history. It actually began immediately after the war by the upper class youth far from the working class neighborhood. In the late 1953, the elitist aura surrounding the Edwardian suit was suddenly shattered. Within just a few months, the Edwardian suit became a source of social anxiety and the focus of a symbolic battle. Although the Edwardian look had initially went back to the upper class root, it became a symbol of rootlessness. In appropriation of this image, The Teddy boys were also rejecting the sartorial conformism of the English working class with its modest tradition. In this respect, the Teds effected the ascent or fall of the working class in the area of fashion. The Teds dress was not a merely borrowed fashion, but was a bastard fashion in the form of American trends, the Zoot suit. At this time members of the working class possessed only work dress for the week and waist suits for the Sunday outings. Teds broke this pattern, and developed the working class dandyism of wearing clothes simply to show off. The results were that they succeeded in opening the teen market, and popularizing a working class style for the first time in British history. The Teds became the first British street style with ties music, and remain as an symbol of the rising of a new age of values and styles.f values and styles.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.1-13
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• 1980

When we design a dress, we should not only consider the esthetic sense and the relationship between movements of the body and the type of dress, but also the combination between the qualities and proper uses of textiles. recently the sale of ready-made clothes has been booming but I wonder whether they have been made in accordance with research concerning body movements and dresses. I would like to make the following observations on dresses, because I have personally suffered the inconvenience of restricted arm movements when wearing ready-made clothes. I have made four types types of foundations with muslin and Jersey, with these foundations I measured the degree of tension or how much the waist-line was drawn up then the arm was moved in increments of 45 degree angles and there by covering the entire span of vertical and horizontal movements. I have intended to experiment with sleeves of differing height in several ways. Concerning the movement factor, I have determined that with excessive activity vertical movements are twice as uncomfortable as horizontal movements. Concerning the faburic, I have found that because jersey has more elastic qualities than muslin, it has proven to be more responsive to body movements. concerning dresses, I have fund that the higher the height of the sleeves, the more uncomfortable it is to move the arms and the greater the degree to which the waist-line is drawn up. As a result this experiment I have made the following observations. Firstly, the vertical movement of the arms to a 180 degree angle has the most extreme influence on the breadth of movement of the waist-line. Secondly, because jersey permits freer body movements than muslin, it should be the preferred material for use in making sportswear. Thirdly, the formula A·H/4+3 of the sleev's cap height is suitable for making street dresses and formal wear. The formula A·H/5 and A·H/6 are properly used when making working clothes and sportswear, and the formula A·H/8 is proper for a sleeping garment and clothes for patients. Fourthly when deciding to any garments, it is important to consider the amount of arm movement anticipated and the relationship between the material and the degree to which the waistline is drawn up. In nder-blouse, when we raise our arms to the most extreme position, we should at that point still have 20∼25 cm of material remaining under the waist-line which includes the maximum of 14.1cm plus part of the blouse and breath of skirt's belt. In the case of the over blouse it is proper for us to have the length of 17∼20 cm remaining below the waist-line.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.123-133
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• 2004

This research analyzed the role of sex and clothing in the seventh version of elementary school textbook-Korean. Analyzed materials were described contents and illustrations or pictures in textbooks - Korean of the wholeclasses with content analysis. The followings are the summary of the results. First, the proportion of males to females is 55.6%. Second, the proportion of female's skirts to trousers is 80.6%. Third, the proportion of female's long hair style to short hair style is 61. 9%. Fourth, mother and female-teacher clothes mainly show skirts. Fifth the results compare father's working with mather's in home: fathers mainly spend the time with family and mothers mainly cook and play roles of housewife. As it was shown above, the ratio of sex in textbooks of elementary school has a tendency to be unfair. Clothing and apperearances of female don't also reflect the present actual tendency. Contents of textbooks are apt to emphasize on the traditional feminine attitudes.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.509-515
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• 2011

Objective: The study was performed to suggest factors to consider when making or selecting protective clothing to enhance farmers' health. The purpose of this study was to review and summarize the agricultural safety technology on clothing including hat, gloves, and shoes. Background: The farmers' work clothing has to meet a multitude of requirement. Risk factors in farm-work were identified by previous researches. Agricultural safety clothing needs to be introduced. Method: We reviewed previous papers regarding the agricultural workers' health, safety clothing to protect body from excessive heat and humid environment, ultraviolet(UV) protection, and hazardous body working postures. Also the UV cut effect, pesticideproof clothing, and preventable farm work related musculoskeletal disorders were discussed. Results: The agricultural safety clothing needs to be developed to provide comfort and to be resistant against heat. The UV protection function on skin and eyes has not been fully researched in safety clothing studies yet. Conclusions and Application: The farmers' work-related body posture needs to be studied in order to make and design agricultural safety clothing. The safety issues on agricultural work shoes are also needed to be included in future studies.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.520-531
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• 2014

Jeju, the biggest island in Korea, was registered as a World Natural Heritage in 2007. Recently, it was also voted as one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature. The need for academic awareness and tourist values on Jeju Island are understood. Gal-ot, one of the ten symbols for Jeju, is known for working clothes in general, despite its potential for cultural products because of its regional uniqueness and useful functional advantages. The authors conducted a comprehensive literature review and researched market trends of Gal-ot stores in Jeju to present development directions for cultural goods and to contribute to local economic improvement. Most stores were located in a semi-residential area and Jeju-si in Jeju Special Self-Governing Province. Most products were not available for sale due to difficulties in the production process and online utilization. High prices and similar color, fabric and style hurt competitiveness. Various experiencing programs of Gal-ot and persimmon dyeing were necessary to expand the main target from residents to tourists. Also, marketing strategies using the internet and design plans reflecting current trends were needed. This study would contribute to prepare developmental projects of cultural product and result in economical advantages on Jeju Island.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.911-923
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• 1995

The zone of expansion and contraction of arm surfaces was analyzed, the correlation between arm surface changes was studied, and ergonomic sleeve designs were presented in which the consideration of body surface changes is emphasized. Experiments were carried out which include 43 upper extremity segments, 21 motions and 35 female subjects. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. As a sleeve drafting method, detailed measures should be applied on the base of the sensitivity of body surface changes. The range of arm surface changes can be divided into three zones : concentrated expansion zone, zone of little change, and contraction part. The maximum expansion zone was the upper part of elbow. 2. The correlations were higher in lengths than in circumferences. Arm lengths were mainly correlated with upper arms. The more detailed the arm surface was, the lower the correlations between surface changes were. So there was not a lot of relation between segment changes. Tendency of body surface changes depended on the anatomical structure of the upper extremity and the movements of arm muscles. 3. As an application of measures and ease, ergonomic sleeve designs weve presented in which arm surface changes were considered. Ergonomic sleeve designs are recommended for working clothes and sports wear.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.43-55
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• 2002

This study intends to consider the characteristics of Tudorian costume and find out how the thoughts and cultures in those days had influences on the costume trends of low and middle class. In terms of the Tudorian costume which generated new cultural mainstreams along with blossomed civil culture, this study focuses on the characteristics and trends of costume at low and middle class, which have been little addressed in studies on western costume history or related fields, turning from the costume of upper class based on wealthy noblemen who showed off its dignity and authority along with jewelry and gorgeous ornamental craftsmanship. This study used related pictures, museum material and other literatures as its reference. It first looked into the general characteristics of western costume and considered the characteristics of costumes popularized in professionals at middle class such as apprentice, yeomen and low-class people. Professional or other middle class almost typically used to wear tunic, doublet, shirts, coat or long gown. Black was mainly used as clothes color. Similarly to upper class, silk or velvet was very often used as material. People at low class enjoyed wear costumes with simple and easy style for working. They also preferred natural color and cotton or wool as material. This study intended to find out which type of costumes people at low and middle class enjoyed wearing, rather than compare costume between such two classes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권2호
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• pp.273-286
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• 2016

Protective coveralls are very uncomfortable to work in comparison to ordinary top and bottom separated clothing. A pattern maker has to consider the size of the human body and human motion range when designing protective coverall patterns. It is difficult to produce well-fitted coveralls because of the lack of readymade patterns despite the increased need for protective coveralls at various jobs. Patterns are decomposed by unsewing 18 products in the domestic market to provide the fundamental information on developing patterns for protective coveralls. The characteristics and differences of pattern types are compared after grouping patterns with information taken from the analysis of the shapes and measurements of patterns from the acquired patterns. The results of the analysis showed that on-market protective coveralls were less curved but much linear when compared to ordinary clothing patterns; however, the breasts and crotch circumferences were very loose and bulky, which is quite different from the other all-in one style working clothes. For the pattern shapes, patterns are classified into waistline-seamed and bustline-seamed types. The result of the hierarchical cluster analysis with 27 measurement variables were classified into four groups. Types by shape and measurements were related to each other; therefore, we expect the information of each type to be used in developing protective clothing patterns.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.19-33
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• 1997

This study will analyze Karl Largerfeld's design of Chanel to suggest the designer's strategy succeeding haute couture. His significant stylistic interests include the revealed structure of the garment, the modifications between fine art and fashion, the combination of the traditional restraint of the couture with the flourishes of the wildest street fashions and effects that turn garments upsides down or insides out. The House of Chanel today recognizes that commercial success ultimately lies in re-working Chanel's signature designs in a modern idiom. That the essence of theses designs remains so desirable is due to Karl Lagerfeld's successful interpretation and is ultimately an accolade to the founder-Gabrielle Chanel. During the reign of Coco it would have been difficult for any woman who wanted to look young and modern to go wrong with her fashions. The same can be said of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel today. Clothes with the Chanel imprimatur no doubt will remain just as fashionable into the twenty-first century.