• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.5 s.90
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• pp.8-14
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• 2006

An earthworm protease, Lumbricus rubellus, was used to improve the dyeing properties of protein fibers such as wool and silk. The optimal condition for the activity of the earthworm pretense was about $40^{\circ}C$ at pH 7. The wool and silk were treated with the protease extracted from an earthworm and the K/S values of the dyed wool and silk were measured using a spectrophotometer in order to compare the dye uptake. The pretense treatment enhanced the dyeing properties of protein fibers without severe changes in mechanical properties. The surface appearances of pretense-treated fibers were observed by microscopy analysis.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.239-244
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• 2004

On the whole the various medium colors were developed by repeat dyeing with different colorants after dyeing with one colorant in case of natural dyeing. In this study, in order to obtain various colors on wool fabrics with Gardenia and Sappan wood colorants, pre-mordanting and combination dyeing were carried out. Gardenia and Sappan wood used as natural colorants for combination dyeing showed good miscibility in dye bath, Metal compounds containing alum, copper and iron were used for pre-mordants. The various medium colors such as yellow-red were obtained according to various metal compounds for pre-mordants and various mixing portion of these natural colorants. The surface reflactance spectra and color characteristics of wool fabrics by mordanting and combination dyeing were investigated.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.180-185
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• 2006

A pineapple protease, bromelain, was used to improve the dyeing properties of protein fibers such as wool and silk. The optimal condition for the activity of the pineapple protease was about $60^{\circ}C$ at pH 7. The wool and silk were treated with the protease extracted from a pineapple and the K/S values of the dyed wool and silk were measured using a spectrophotometer in order to compare the dye uptake. The protease treatment enhanced the dyeing properties of protein fibers without severe changes in mechanical properties. The surface appearances of protease-treated fibers were observed by microscopy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1248-1253
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• 2002

Coocus laccae(Laccifer lacca Kerr), usually known as Lac, is a kind of cocoon which is parasitic on the tree around India and China. It contains the laconic acid of red colored dyes and has been used for cosmetic or natural dyeing prior to the introduction of New World cochineal. Nevertheless, the characterization of lac has not been studied, very little informed. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of dyeing conditions fur Lac extract, such as pH of dye bath, concentration of Lac exact dyeing temperature and time, to find out the optimum conditions. The results were as follow. 1. The highest K/S values of the silk and wool was shown at PH 3 and PH 4. 2. K/S values of the silk came to nearly the adsorption equilibrium state at 40$^{\circ}C$ and the curve of wool showed a dramatic increase with the increase of temperature. 3. Dyed silk and wool fabrics showed good light fastness without using mordants.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.43-51
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• 2009

The cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen or argon plasma, enzymes(cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and examined for their weight loss and conditions for treatment for the environment friendly finishing. In the plasma treatment argon gas had better effect on the weight loss than oxygen gas did and the weight loss of all the fabrics was increased as increasing discharge power and discharge time. The weight loss of cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) fabrics decreased in a large measure after 1 hr but that of tencel didn't decrease after 1 hr. In case of cellulose fibers oxygen gas plasma induced chemical functional groups on the surface of substrate more than argon gas plasma did so the weight loss of wool was larger than that of cotton, tencel fabrics in oxygen plasma-enzyme treatment. The weight loss of cotton and tencel fabrics decreased the initial stage because oxygen plasma pre-treatment caused cross linking as well as etching effect but argon plasma pre-treatment didn't. The plasma pre-treatment cleared the way for enzyme treatment on the whole but oxygen plasma pre-treatment bear in hand the increase of weight loss more or less because of the cross linking on the surface of cellulose fibers. The appropriate conditions for plasma treatment was 10-1Torr, 40W for 30minutes and for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of $3g/{\ell}$, pH 5, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of $4g/{\ell}$ pH 8, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.496-501
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• 2009

In this study, a kiwifruit-produced protease was used to improve the quality of the wool and silk fabrics. The wool and silk were treated with the actinidin from kiwifruit. Following this protease treatment, changes in the surface of a single yarn of the fabrics were observed via both an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope (SEM). In order to determine the amount of dye uptake in the fabric, changes in the K/S value of the wool and silk were measured by spectrophotometric analysis. Also, we performed a tensile strength examination to determine variation in their mechanical properties. By increasing the protease treatment time to 48h, the dyeing properties of fabrics were enhanced, and the surfaces of the single yarns of the fabrics became smoother, because of the removal of soil and scale in them. However, no mechanical changes were detected in the fabrics. Thereby, we suggest that the kiwifruit-produced actinidin treatment can improve the quality of the fabrics.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.413-426
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• 2011

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of texture image and preference according to fiber blending ratio of men's suit fabrics. 110 subjects evaluated the texture image and preference of various fabrics. For statistical analysis, factor analysis, MDS, pearson correlation and ANOVA were used. The results were as follows: Sensory image factors of suit fabrics were 'smoothness', 'bulkiness', 'stiffness', 'elasticity', 'moistness' and 'weight sensation'. Sensibility image factors were 'classic', 'practical', 'characteristic' and 'sophisticated'. 'Bulkiness' and 'elasticity' sensory images showed high correlations with sensibility images. Fabrics with high wool blending ratio showed as 'classic' and 'sophisticated', 'bulkiness' and 'elasticity' texture images and fabrics with low wool blending ratio showed texture images of 'characteristic', 'surface character', 'stiffness', 'moistness' and 'weight sensation'. Wool fiber blending ratio affected on the purchase preference and tactile preference. Using regression analysis, it was shown that sensibility images had more of an effect on preference than sensory images. The thickness and pattern type showed positive effects and fiber blending ratio showed negative effects on the preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.157-165
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• 2008

Transient thermal response of five types of underwear(cotton jersey, wool jersey, nylon jersey, cotton mesh and polyester mesh) for a protective coverall is evaluated using a sweating thermal manikin. Experimental protocol for transient thermal response of the sweating thermal manikin was also proposed. As results, it was found that steady state thermal response from sweating thermal manikin was not sensitive enough to evaluate thermal comfort of the experimental garments. However, when half time is used as an index of the heat flux change in transient thermal response, difference was found among underwear materials. Half time of cotton was the shortest and heat transfer of cotton was the fastest followed by polyester mesh, cotton jersey, nylon jersey and wool jersey. Dynamic thermal response of wool underwear was quite different from that of cotton underwear. Wool shows quite less heat flow at the initial stage, however, moisture permeability of wool was higher than cotton at the later stage. It was difficult to distinguish surface temperature difference visually using thermogram taken right before the completion of dry and wet test in steady state thermal response.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.19-25
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• 1989

In past, dye diffusion and dyeing rate in fibers have been emphasized in dyeing phenomena. However, in the light of the properties of colloids in the surface of disperse phase and dispersion, there exist specific characters such as adsorption or electric double layer, which seems to play important roles in determining the physiochemical properties in the dyeing system. Electrostatic bonding, hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals adsorption are common in dyeing as well as covalent bonding. Particularly, electrostatic bonding is premised on the existance of ionic radicals in fibers. The present study was aimed to clarify the electrokinetic phenomena of dyeing through the role of electric double layer by ion in amphoteric fibers with different ionic effects under different pH. Spectrophotometric analysis method was used to compare dyeing condition of surface, which can be detected by electrokinetic phenomena and the inner of fibers after deceleration of dyed fibers. Nylon and wool, the typical amphoteric fibers were dyed with monoazo acid dyes such as C.I. Acid Orange 20, and C.I. Acid Orange 10. Various combinations were prepared by combining pH, temperature and dye concentration, in order to generate streaming electric potential which were measured by microvolt meter and specific conductivity meter. The results were transformed to zeta potential by Helmholtz-Smoluchowski formular and to surface electric charge density by Suzawa formular, surface dye amount, and effective surface area of fibers. The amount of dyes of inner fibers were also measured by the Lambert-Beer’s law. The main results obtained are as follows. 1. By measuring zeta pontential, it was possible to detect the dyeing mechanism, surface charge density, surface dye amount and effective surface area concerning dye adsorption of the amphoteric fibers. 2. Zeta pontential increases in negative at low pH and high dye concentration in the process of dyeing. This implied that there existed ionic bond formation in the dyeing mechanism between acid dyes and amphoteric fibers. 3. Dibasic acid dye had little changing rate in zeta potential due to the difference in solubility of dye and in number of dissociated ions per dye molecule to bond with amino radicals of amphoteric fibers. The dye adsorption of mono basic acid dye was higher than that of dibasic acid dye. 4. The effective surface areas concerning dyeing were $6.3E+05\;cm^2/g$ in nylon, $1.6E+07\;cm^2/g$ in wool fiber being higher order of wool then nylon.