• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.159-170
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• 1999

This study was for reasonable gathering by a fabric and a skirt length. So the purpose of this study was to show the basic data to forecast the gathering effect of gathered skirt which was more aesthetical and suitable for a use in time of making pattern. To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt ength-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced bgy these factors. The following are the results of this research. 1. For this research of fabrics the gathering amounts which were shown visually the most aesthetical silhouette in the same material and skirt length were decided on 1.5 times or 2.0 times. On the other side 0.5 times and 2.5 times of gathering amount were got a low estimation visually 2. Except in case the skirt length was 40cm and gathering amount were 1.0 times and 1.5 times in the same gathering amount and length of skirt it was estimated that wool fabric was most aesthetical silhouette fabric. On the other hand it was got low estimation which the cotton was not good for draping effect because it was got the lowest estimation level in all cases. 3. Considered as a whole in the same gathering amount and fabric the fabric widths for gathering which were shown the most aesthetical silhouette were estimated the length of 60cm in cotton fabric 80cm in polyester fabric and 40cm in wool fabric. Therefore as a fabric was weighty a length of a skirt was shorten so, it was estimated visually more beautiful.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.44-52
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• 2002

Recently there has been a growing interest in the use of natural dyes in textile applications. Natural dyes can exhibit better biodegradability and generally have a higher compatibility with the environment. In this study, the colorants of Catalpa ovata bark were extracted with water and analyzed by spectrophotometry for their main colorant species. Cotton, silk and wool fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Catalpa ovata bark and their dyeabilities on the fibers were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing, drycleaning and light, and the effects on bacteriostatic rate and UV-B protection rate were also investigated. The major colorant of the extract of Catalpa ovata bark was shown to be 6-O-trans-caffeoyl-$\beta$-D-glucopyranoside. Cotton, silk and wool fabrics dyed with the extract of Catnip ovata bark were colored in yellowish red tint. The optimum dyeing condition of the colorants extracted from Catalp ovata bark was three repeated dyeing at $95^\circ{C}$ for 1 hr using post mordanting. For dyed silk and wool fabric, the fastness to washing were improved by mordanting, and the fastness to drycleaning were very outstanding. In case of wool fabric dyed with the extract of Catalpa ovata bark, the bacteriostatic rate was increased drastically by 98.0%, and UV-B protection rate was increased by 97.3%.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권7호
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• pp.1117-1123
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• 1997

This paper describes the measurement of thickness of still air layer above fabrics and its relationship to structural properties of fabrics. Rayon fabrics - of both filament and spun - and wool nylon blended fabrics varied in terms of surface hairiness were used. Temperature and relative humidity above fabrics were measured at the various distances from the fabric surface. Increase in the thickness of fabric, fabric weight, yarn count, and crimp resulted increase in thickness of still air layer above fabric. Surface hairiness of fabrics as well as the structural properties were found to be related with the thickness of still air layer above fabrics.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.103-111
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• 2004

The shrinkproof-finished wool fibers treated with resin coating and chlorination methods were used to find out an optimal shrinkproof finishing method keeping the quality properties of wool fabric to manufacturers. Shrinkage during repeated washing, electrostatic propensity, thermal resistance and pilling propensity of shrinkproof-finished wool knits, and analysis of finishing methods were measured. Upon the results from the surface examination of shrinkproof-finished wool fibers, the patterns of scale layer and degree of scale removal were subject to change according to the finishing processes. The shrink resistance was significantly enhanced on repeated washing of shrinkproof-finished knits, especially, chlorinated wool. Addition of strong physical force and alkali detergent applied in this washing experiment brought about superior effects with the low shrinkage rate although it was very severe washing conditions for wool fabrics. The results from the washing experiment implies that shrinkproof-finished knitted fabrics can be machine washed at individual households with other ordinary laundry. There was some changes and variation found in thermal resistance, electrostatic propensity, and pilling, however, it seems to be minor within standard limits. Therefore, shrinkproof-finished knitted fabrics did not bring serious changes to other physical properties comparing with original wool, which helps consumers handle wool knitted clothes more conveniently.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.228-238
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of chacteristics of knit fabrics on the microclimate of the skin simulating system. To determine the effect of characteristics of knit fabrics, vapor state of sweat pulse was simulated in the closed system. Different contents of fibers such as cotton, wool and polyester with different yarn size and knit types were chosen for specimens. The changes of humidity and temperature of air layer in the simulated systems were measured. Buffering indices, $K_d$ and $\beta_r$, were determined by considering $\alpha_p, \DeltaP_{max}, t_{max}, and tan\beta$. Physical properties of knit fabrics such as thickness, porosity, air resistance and moisture vapor transport were measured. Results showed that vapor pressure of wool was lower than cotton or polyester This was attributed to the hydrophilicity of wool which absorbed moisture rather quickly and retained in the knit fabric. The time to decrease vapor pressure was faster for polyester than cotton or wool. As a result, $K_d$ was in the order of wool> polye, item> cotton. $\beta_r$ of wool was rower than cotton or polyester due to its lowers porosity and slower desorption rate. For the yarn size, $K_d$ was in the order of 80's> 60's> 30's; thinner and lighter yarn showed better water vapor transport property. For knit type, buffering capacity of single jersey was better than interlock knit fabric. Statistical analysis showed that the air permeability was the most influential factor far the water vapor transport properties.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.73-88
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• 1999

To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt length-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation and the shape of hemlines evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced by these factors this study found the aesthetical gathering amount and analyzed the shape of hemlines. The following are the results of this research. 1. In the same fabric and skirt length to estimate a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt the increased amount of the node number of cotton fabric was widest and wool fabric was most stable And when the gathering amounts of each fabric were higher than 1.5 times the node indexes were no difference. According as a skirt length was longer the node indexes assumed a similar aspects but according as the skirt length was shorten an the gathering amount was smaller the node shapes were level and broad. And according to being increased a gathering amount the width of right and left of gathered skirt was generally wider. 2. In the same gathering amount and skirt length in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt when the skirt length was 40cm in cotton polyester wool fabrics the node indexes were similar at up to 1.5 times of gathering amount and especially it became very bigger at 0.5 times and according as the gathering amount was increased node index became gradually smaller. The width of right and left of the skirt hemlines of wool fabric was more smaller than polyester and cotton fabrics so it is happen to hang down. 3. In the same gathering amount and fabric in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape as a variation of a skirt length when the gathering amount of cotton and polyester was from up to 1.5 times and wood fabric was from up to 1.0 times according as skirt length was longer node index in the same gathering amount was decreased. And in case as it was 0.5 times the node indexes of the 40cm and 60cm skirt length were bigger than other factors. In the same gathering amount the width of right and left of the skirt hemlines was smaller at 60cm skirt length and polyester fabric was smaller at 80cm skirt length.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.229-240
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of hydrophilicity of the fiber on the water vapor transport properties of the fabric by using double layered fabrics of natural and synthetic fibers such as cotton, wool, nylon, dacron, orlon and polypropylene. Wickability and absorption rate were measured to determine the absorbancy of the fabrics. Dynamic and steady state water vapor transport properties were measured by cobaltous chloride method and evaporation method, respectively. Absorption was in the order of orlon> cotton > wool > nylon > polypropylene > dacron. Dynamic surface wetness of synthetic fabrics were faster than that of natural fabrics. For the double layered fabrics, higher water vapor transport was resulted when the natural fabric was exposed to lower vapor pressure and synthetic fabric was exposed to higher vapor pressure than when the fabrics were layered the other way around. Opposite result was obtained for orlon, which suggested that when the fabric of high absorbancy is exposed to the environment and lower absorbancy is to the skin, higher water vapor transpont could be resulted.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.116-127
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• 2010

Metal acid dyes are usually used to dye wool fabric to achieve high concentrated color and strong color fastness. However, metal acid dyes contain lots of heavy metal. That causes not only environmental pollution but also diseases to human. In this study, wool reactive dyes instead of metal acid dyes for wool, which are environmental friendly, are compared and analyzed in the evaluation system of their harmfulness, containing heavy metals and examined exhaustion rates and dyeing characteristics.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.10-16
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• 1997

Merino wool top and fabric have been treated with steams such as superheated steam or high pressure steam. Moisture regain, water absorbency, water penetration, zeta potential, ESCA, SEM, and dyeing behavior were studied. Negative electric potential on the surface of wool fibers by steam treatment became higher than untreated. From the results of ESCA measurement, intensity of $O_{1s}$ was increased by steam treatment. Rate of dyeing and saturation dye exhaustion of wools increased by steam treatment, especially high pressure steam treatment. Moisture regain, water absorbency, water penetration, and surface appearances by SEM photographs of the steam-treated wools didn't change. There is no relationship between dyeing of the steam-treated wool and wettability to water. Therefore It seems likely that relaxation of adhesive filler in interscale of wool by steam treatment accelerate dye penetration into the fiber.