• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.113-125
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• 2015

The purpose of this paper is to study the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, a floral decoration, history of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, a floral decoration, with a focus on its aesthetics, its practical use and its traditional meaning. After the examination of its history, the paper, recreated the proceeds by taking into consideration both the contemporary men's fashion, as well as the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ designs of the past. The three factors of contemporary $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ design, in brief, are its historical meaning, the visual aesthetics and the wearability. In this paper, the research and design steps are as followed below. First, the paper examined the history of men's fashion leading up to the twenty-first century in order to get a deeper understanding of the history of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$. Second, the paper attempted to find the most suitable fabric materials and flowers for the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, in order to produce diverse $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ that can be worn in any season and occasion. As for the fabrics that can be used to make the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$, organza can be used for the S/S season, and wool, tweed and suede can be used for the F/W season. The major characteristics that differentiate the kinds of $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ are the "Carnation" and the "Rose of Sharon". The 'Rose of Sharon' $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ as the symbol of our nation possesses an intricate meaning and practical function, so that this $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ is used as an alternative badge of the national assembly and other social-national institutions and their members. This idea expands into other social and individual features that the $boutonni{\grave{e}}re$ is a differentiated fashion item that provides other personal styles and expresses individuality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.1-8
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• 2024

Unwanted effects of electrostatic phenomena occur in various industries. Electrostatic problems originating from the human body in flammable atmospheres in the industry are especially concerning. A substantial volume of experimental data on the electrostatic charging voltages created on the human body owing to the rubbing of apparel were generated and reviewed during this study. The data were reviewed to determine whether the resultant charging levels of the human body are hazardous in flammable atmospheres. This study was conducted under several conditions, such as different fiber types used in apparel, shoe types, and relative humidities (RHs). The following conclusions were drawn in this study. ① The electrostatic charging levels of the human body owing to the rubbing of apparel increase with the increase in the surface resistances of apparel; however, the electrostatic charging levels may be different depending on the condition of the cloth surface. ② The discharging energy of 1.98-18.5 [mJ] from the human body exceeds the minimum ignition energy of most flammable materials, when removing an overcoat made of polyester, cotton and wool under severe conditions such as wearing height-raising shoes for men. ③ When removing antistatic apparel, the maximum discharging energy of 0.128 mJ from the human body is dangerous if the minimum ignition energy of the flammable material is between 10^-5-10^-4 [J] Grade; however, a minimum ignition energy of 10^-3 J Grade of the flammable material is considered safe. ④ While wearing antistatic shoes, the electrostatic charging voltage generated in the human body when removing an overcoat is 30 V; therefore, wearing such shoes is a suitable countermeasure when handling flammable materials. However, the antistatic abilities of shoes reduce when thick socks are worn. ⑤ As RH increases, the electrostatic charging levels of the human body decrease. ⑥ The electrostatic charging levels of the human body from removing a cotton overcoat can ignite the majority of flammable materials when RH is less than 30% under severe conditions such as wearing height-raising shoes for men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1479-1490
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• 2010

This study provides basic data for the development of jacket patterns which reflect designs corresponding to the body shape features and preferences of obese women in their 20s and 30s by understanding problems they may encounter in wearing a ready-made jacket by researching the reality of ready-made tailored jacket wearing and their design preferences. A survey was conducted by sampling 82 obese women (over $25kg/m^2$ BMI) between the ages of 20 to 39. The details of the survey consists of general information, interest rate and importance rate on clothes, reality of wearing and purchasing jackets, measurement fits per each part, and preferred designs. SPSS 14.0 was used to analyze the data. The results showed that 76.8% of obese women wore their jackets less than 5 times a month. Those in the 20s wore the jackets more frequently than those in the 30s. The reasons for not wearing jackets frequently included uncomfortableness in activities and unavailability of the correct size. A total of 55% of the total preferred the fitting to be relatively smaller than the body size or tightly fitting. Although in the past, there was a tendency to wear a loose fit to cover the body shape, currently even obese body shapes avoided the loose fit as the tight fit is the trend. In terms of the satisfaction rate for the measurements per each part of jackets, there was a low satisfaction rate for most of the items. For the circumference items such as waist length and chest size, people responded that they were too small and for the length of items such as the length of jacket and sleeve length, people responded that they were too long. This was because the readymade clothes brands increase the length of items and circumference items in uniform in the same intervals when producing large sizes. Both those in the 20s and the 30s preferred a tight fit. In terms of preferred fabric, a wool/spandex mix was most popular and then cotton/spandex. This shows that they prefer those fabrics which allow an excellent activity while maintaining the exterior well. In addition, they preferred black color with no patterns because they wanted their body size to look reduced and did not want to receive any attention.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.