• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.29-44
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• 2013

This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.1-17
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• 2014

This study explores women's Wonsam in the 18th century. Wonsam was women's wedding dress, one of the representative ceremonial garments of Korea. Wonsam began to appear in the excavated clothes around the 18th century, and we can find drawings and records of the period in Yongjae Collections by Kim-kunhaeng. The form of Wonsam after the 17th and 18th centuries showed the changes in which Seop and Mu disappeared in Baeja form of Danryoung(團領) and the right and left symmetry and side slits were highlighted. The change also included wide and long sleeves and Sakdong(색동) colorful strips on the sleeves), Hansam ornaments, and the use of the belt, which means the change of Baeja composition into our traditional costume of the age. Through the Colletions, we notice that women wore Wonsam in different colors and with varying hair accessories according to the nature of ceremony, the social status, and marital status. Concerning Wonsam, the color of clothing for the dead woman was green(喪禮), while that for marriage ceremony was red(婚禮). Wonsam with the light color was for ceremonial clothing(祭禮). The women who served in the palace wore green Wonsam and Geodumi, while a bride at the marriage ceremony wore red Wonsam or a red long-sleeved robe with Jokduri. At the ceremony of Hyeongunorye, women wore Wonsam with a wig. the dead woman wore Yemou.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.10
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• pp.1552-1563
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• 2009

This paper investigates the color rank system of the Wonsam, ceremonial topcoat, worn as a court formal costume of the Joseon dynasty by analyzing the court costume system and the actual examples of wearing. The research shows that there were some discrepancies of the color rank of the Wonsam between the court costume system and the actual wearing examples. There were red, purple, blue, green, and black Wonsam in the Joseon dynasty. The color rank of the Wonsam is as follows: the Queen's color was red, the Crown Princess's was green and purple, the royal concubine's was usually green and blue, but they could wear purple when they won the King's favor. A prince's wife's was usually green, but she wore blue and purple if she became the mother of the King. The princess's was green, and the court lady's was green, blue, and black. In most cases, the textiles of Wonsam were made by silk with patterns, even though Joseon dynasty was ordered to use silks without patterns in court weddings and funeral ceremonies to avoid extravagance.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.61-74
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• 2005

Wonsam, a type of korean women's gown in Choseon Dynasty, was used as a small ceremonial costume for queens, crown princesses and princesses and as a grand ceremonial costume for royal concubines and wives of high rank officials. It was also worn as a wedding dress for commoners. In the families of illustrious officials, it was also used as burial accessories or garments for the dead. In this context, Wonsam is a formal dress for the people's most important four ceremonies of coming-of-age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor worship. It is worth emphasizing the costume since it was widely and importantly used by all ranks of women, from royal families to commoners. Through the Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's, we can see what the society was like at the end of Choseon Dynasty. First, a status system that strictly divided costumes for each class, was, in many parts, broken down. Second, the highly wrought patterns and texture of fabrics of the Wonsam reveal that it was granted from Court, or, if woven by the Kim family, it is considered to be produced by the Court's craftsman or through technical transfer, considering that the weaving skills used are as good as those in Courts. Third, regarding the precise needlework that is uncomparable to textiles used by other illustrious officials families, the Wonsam is considered to be granted from Court or, produced through the needlework skills that were handed down from needlewomen in Courts. The Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's has noble beauty in it, with outstanding weaving skills, fabrics, needlework and shape. Thus, it is no exaggeration to say that it has those qualities to be the standard costume that inherits the tradition of Korean people.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.85-106
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• 2011

This study analyzes excavated Danryeong of the same period to understand differences between female and male Danryeong, and to identify characteristics of female Danryeong, including their purpose, then-name and women's wearing of them. The subject female Danryeong were estimated to be worn in the late 15th century and the early 17th century, and newly-discovered female Danryeong, along with those examined in the Song Mi-kyeong's study, were studied. This study found that female Danryeong have distinctive characteristics from male's in many aspects such as ease of a garment, sleeve design, Hansam (a layered sleeve to cover hands), shape of Moos (side pleats), Goreum (a coat string), Dae (a belt). From this finding, the purpose of female Danryeong can be assumed: a ceremonial robe, which is different from that of mem's official robe. Female Danryeong began to disappear as Wonsam, a ceremonial topcoat, emerged. From the transitional Danryeong and excavated Wonsam, female Danryeong were estimated to be used as ceremonial robes in the mid Joseon period when Wonsam had yet to be created; and they were estimated to be called "Dansam" or "Wonsam."

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.871-886
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to understand the culture on the Traditional Wedding of the West Gyeong Nam District. The traditional wedding was characterized that the bridegroom visited his bride's house accompanied by his honored guests(上客) and the marriage ceremony was to be held in day time, and then the bridegroom became a son-in-law and stayed with the family for a few days. The bridegroom returned to his home, leaving his bride behind. After a certain period, the bride came to her husband's home as a daughter-in-law. The Traditional Wedding costume of the bridegroom were Samo-Gwandae. The coat (outside uniform) was blue Danryeong ornamented with two cranes figured Hyong-Bae and Heukgackdae. In case Samo-Gwandae was not available, Dopo or Durumakie could be substituted and they put on shoes in this case. A bridegroom put on Mokhwa his feet and under the Samo, and he also put on Nambawie or Bokguen. He put on Dopo or Haeng-eui(行衣) or Durumaki under the blue Danryeong. The bride put on Wonsam and Chokduri or Hwagwan on her hair. In case Wonsam was not available, Chima Jogori style or imitational Wonsam, which was roughly sewed with red cloth and blue cloth contained in the Honsuham (Box of wedding treasure), could be substituted. She put on Hyang-guen to protect her body against the coldness and to hide her face.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.5 no.2 s.6
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• pp.15-24
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• 1996

Th)s study was carried out of the historical characters and textile coservations for Mrs. Danha Lee's Wonsam. As the textile material was silk, dry cleaning method was suggested. The solvents for dry cleaning were n-hexane, n-decane, and benzene. During the second cleaning process, the dry soap(HI-TECH, 120:1, volume ratio) was added to the mixed solvents. The reaction's temparature was $20^{\circ}C$, and the reaction's time was 30 minuutes. It seemed to be a gift for hot from the Royal Family because of the attachment of pheonlx hungbae. This wonsam was decorated symmetrically by gold weaving yarn, the basic fabric was green silk satin with glorius letters and floral patterns. It was made on the 17th C and the oldest thing among them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.51-70
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• 2010

The ritual to change the hairstyle holds the same meaning as the coming of age ceremony. The ceremony was performed throughout three times including choga, jaega, and samga. The garment and hairstyle attuned to the ceremony formalities. Women in the royal family had 'su-siK when they were fully grown up during choga, 'gwang-sik' during Jaega, and 'keun-meo-ri (big hairstyle)' during samga. 'su-sik' is the noblest hairstyle according to social status, which is allowed to be worn only by spouse of king and prince, regardless of adult or not. During jaega, 'gwang-sik' which was 'u-yeo-meo-ri', is made by winding 'darae (wig)' around a jjok-jin-muri (bun) [Jo-jim-meo-ri]? which distinguished the hairstyle of unmarried women, who did not go through a coming of age ceremony yet. Unmarried women maintained a hairstyle which is mostly twisted into one string, but they had 'saeang-meo-ri' when they were prepared for ceremonial costumes. Also, they had 'ga-raemeo-ri' when growing further. keun-meo-ri during samga is an addition of keun-meo-ri chaebal(wig) onto u-yeo-meo-ri. Women in the royal family made geo-du-mi by adding keun-meo-ri, which is formed by twisting wig, and oimyeongbu (noble ladies) and sanggung (court ladies) added a wooden wig called u-yeo-mi. Also, yeoryeong wore ga-ri-ma. In this way, the types of hairstyles were distinguished according to hierarchy. As the coming of age ceremonial dress. Wonsam was worn. During choga. wonsam was worn as a formal dress and during jaega and samga wonsam was worn as a full dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.594-604
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• 2000

This study aims to investigate the changes in the Wedding costume for Paebak(Hyunkugorye) in Westernizing Korean society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analyzed the related literature for the first half of the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 116 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. It is obvious that bridegroom and bride wore the same clothes for Hyunkugorye and the formal wedding ceremony in the early twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, wonsam was rather more widely used than hwalot as the bride's wedding costume in the late twentieth century. But there were many changes starting from the early 1970s. The changes were deviated from the traditional style and became more decorative and somewhat crude: that is, people began to embroider wonsam and the piping was added to the collar of danryung. All these changes resulted from the pursuit of commercial interests with the misunderstanding of and the indifference to traditional beauty, while Korean society had experienced the Japanese rule of Korea, the Korean War and the industrialization during the 1960s and 1970s. Therefore, to establish appropriate wedding culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people who get involved in wedding business for traditional wedding culture and clothes, because nowadays . most of bridegrooms and brides borrow ceremonial costume for Hyunkugorye.

• Journal of Korean Society of Rural Planning
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• v.8 no.3 s.17
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• pp.49-57
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to present a new orientation for the residential culture that can meet the shifting demands of modern people as their attitudes toward life change. One of the rural regions that has lately attracted considerable attention, Wonsam-myun, Yongin city, is selected as the residence zone to develop a housing complex. In this study, a new housing complex is designed to supplement the defects of existing housing complexes by making the utmost use of the merits that Wonsam-myun as a residential environment can offer. The major findings of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. To present a new Korean model, yellow soil houses and traditional trees were used to utilize Korea's traditional landscape beauty in the construction and landscape aspect, instead of imitating indiscreetly foreign styles in which most newly developed housing complexes were built. 2. To provide convenience to prospective residents, a package sales scheme covering from lot purchase to building permit was adopted. 3. As for the planting plan, existing plants was preserved as much as possible to keep harmony with new plants. In selecting plant types, a traditional method that emphasizes on the visual effects of aesthetic plants and shade trees with the change of seasons and plants various kinds of plants according to directions was adopted. 4. Each household was given the opportunity to design its own garden according to the family's preference and taste. 5. The advantages of a rural area that city does not offer were fully utilized to provide the residents with convenience and pleasure of living.