• Title/Summary/Keyword: Women's Jeogori

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Characteristic and Transition of woman's Saeng-Hwal-Han-Bok after Modern Korea (근대이후 여성 생활한복의 특징 및 변천)

  • Kim Mee-Jin;Kim Hye-Young;Cho Woo-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.137-158
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    • 2005
  • Modernization of Korea had begun with the reformation of the Kab-o Reform in 1894, which the government had designed after the protectorate treaty with Japan in 1876. It had affected drastic changes on the formation and framework of a Han-bok by government and the main changes is found in creating new style of Gae-ryang Han-bok. During 1980's, the peoples were interested in traditional cultural heritage, and 'the campaign of wearing Woo-Ri Ot' prevailed in Korea to instill the radical sprit of Korean. A Han-bok, which was made at this time, has called a Saeng-hwal Han-bok. The purposes of this study are to defue the the words that are Han-bok, Gae-ryang Han-bok and Saeng-hwal Han-bok of meaning and characteristic based on the previous studies and historical materials and present a unified and historical opinion about Han-bok to the academic world and industry of Han-bok by the consideration. Han-bok is a traditional costume with a long skirt and long breast-tie based on the later Cho-sun and is emphasized a virtue and manner on it. Gae-ryang Han-bok is an improved Han-bok that is include with a Tong-Chima and Jeogori for making a movement and function better. Saeng-hwal Han-bok is originated by the movement of wearing Woo-ri Ot in 1984, is interpreted the traditional Korean beauty from the modem view and is a practice Han-bok for popularizing intodaily life. After investigating the 33 of previous studies, the characteristics and transitions of Han-bok are followed. First, the reason of fail about the reform of dress is a loss of traditional beauty. Second, the yes or no of the establishment of law about the reform of dress, it influenced on a reforming or wearing speed of costume. Third, after 8.15, a modem girl and girl student can not impact on a system of Korean women anymore because, the number of the group that means a high educated and active woman, was growing. So, the elevation of women's education matured the system of Korean women's costume. forth, western style clothes are popularized after the Korean War and it is set down in the system of Korean women's dress.

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A Study on the Formative Characteristics of Hanbok in SNS Proof Shot - Focused on the Women's Hanbok - (SNS 인증샷에 나타난 한복의 조형적 특징 연구 - 여자한복을 중심으로 -)

  • Choi, Insook;Lee, Misuk;Kim, Eunjung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.3
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    • pp.15-30
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of Hanbok among youngsters based on SNS proof shots, identify new characteristics of Hanbok as part of play and travel rather than as formal Hanbok, and provide information for the Hanbok market. As research methodology, our search was carried out by using '#Hanbok Travel' as the search word in Instagram, where the Hanbok proof shot phenomenon is actively under way. A total of 535 posts from March 21, 2016 to April 1, 2016 were selected as objects of this study, excluding posts containing Hanbok with indiscernible shape, Korean traditional costume manufacturers' promotional posts, and repetitive posts by one person. First, the 535 posts were analyzed by season, region, number of people, and gender, and after men's data were excluded, 644 Hanboks were left for analysis. Their formative characteristics were analyzed by using SPSS 21.0. The results showed that the formative characteristics of Hanbok shown in SNS proof shots included diversification of length in jeogori(Korean traditional jacket), skirt, and sleeve, use of pragmatic material and achromatic color, and reduced use of decorative technique. Hanboks shown in the Hanbok proof shots should be considered as significant data because each shots show clothes selected and worn directly by user's side, unlike the existing studies centering on Hanbok designers' works.

The Preference of University Student for Contemporary folk Hanbok - Centered on Seoul and Kwang-ju, Mok-po - (대학생(大學生)의 생활한복(生活韓服)에 대(對)한 선호도(選好度)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 서울과 광주(光州), 목포(木浦)를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Park, Mi-Ryung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.93-103
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    • 1999
  • This study is intended to propose the new design course on Contemporary folk Hanbok by researching their preference to Contemporary folk Hanbok. To do so, the definition of styles, preference in details and fitness for the occasion to wear Contemporary folk Hanbok were evaluated and analyzed. The collected materials were investigated in quality and content. As for the data, five Contemporary folk Hanbok brands, in the city were selected and twenty styles from catalog were extracted. The subjected of study were 219 university students living in Seoul and Kwang-ju, Mok-po. they answered the questionnaires, the results of study were following: 1) In style of Contemporary folk Hanbok, there were positive support on longer Jeogori than traditional one and a seamless one-piece skirt at the length of ankle. But they had the negative thought of various spapes shapes related to the styles of Contemporary folk Hanbok. 2) In a view point of coloring on women's Contemporary folk Hanbok, the student supported the saturation more than special preference to similarity or contrast harmony. Students liked the harmony of achromatic colors or same colors up and down which are not traditional 3) In men's Contemporary folk Hanbok, students were for the harmony of same colors in up and down, preferring wool/polyester to cotton or silk100% (traditional materials) in materials 4) It indicates that what students thought generally of the occasional appropriateness of Contemporary folk Hanbok didn't match with the choice of proper occasion on preferred style. The western clothes have difference in design, material, color and manners of co-ordination related to ordinary cloths and out wear, but Contemporary folk Hanbok don't have these difference. Therefore, it is needed to develop the expensive designs discriminated between ordinary clothes and out wear in design, material, color and co-ordination corresponding to the every day life style.

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A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty (고려시대 사람들의 삶과 전통의상에 대한 고찰)

  • Choi Kyu-Seong
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.6 s.53
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    • pp.1060-1069
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    • 2004
  • We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

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A Study on the "Kea Ju", "Goon Bok" and "Yoong Bok" ("개주"와 "군복"과 "융복"에 관한 연구)

  • Im Myung Mi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.31-47
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    • 1979
  • 1. The old Korean costume had two different kind of dress, one was a military uniform (Goon bok) for military only and the other was uniform (Yoongbok) for civilian and militarian. 2. The military uniform (Goonbok) were dressed under armour, was for war time. And the civilian and military uniform were dressed under Mo (Hat) and Po (Coat dress), was for War time or emergent case. 3. Armour were made of leather in ancient times but later they were made of metal. 4. In generally, armour is classified; 1) To protect neck 2) To protect shoulders and arms 3) To protect breast 4) To protect both legs 5) To protect hands 5. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only. at the time of three Nations (Ko-kuryo, Bakje. Silla) 1) Armour-a) Identified by found relics or ancient wall picture. b) They had improver! armour. c) Armour of three Nations were resembled each other. 2) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) The Jeogori reached to hip area was called Jangyoo. b) The pants were tight trousers. 6. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only at Koryo Dynasty. 1) They had improved armour like three nation's age. 2) They were made of iron. leather, paper or cloth 3) The color was white. puple. red. 4) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) Hat-(1) Banggak (2) Josamoja (3) Ibgak (4) Jakwan (5) Sabgak (6) Sumale (7) Jaragwan (8) Kummoja (9) Mubyunkwan (10) Pyungyunchek b) Dress-(l) Jayeisokade (2) Bosanghwa Gayendae (3) Hongbeja Rokrahansam (4) Jag- ongbok Hongeung (5) Jagongbok Jogeung (6) Kumyeisokdae (7) Bilapeja Rokrahansam (8) Jasupoto (9) Kumyei Honggung (10) Kumyei Dokuyeunsokdae (11) Bibosunghwa Dongokumdae (12) Bidaesuyei Kayeundae (13) Jasosulansam (14) Biyeiko (15) Chung-yei Dongsim Sokdae 7. Armour and military uniform of Lee Dynasty 1) Armour-a) the Helmets were attached with visor ar without visor, and later it was added the neck protecter. b) dresses were given various names according to the materials used. for example, Suiejakap or Kyungfunkap. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok) were composed by molip, Hyunchungsakpuja, Jundae, Soowhaja. 8. Military uniform (yoongbok) for civilian and militarian 1) The unifom was developped through Imjin war, Byungja war since the middle of Lee Dynasty. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok), (Yoongbok), armour were by the established dress reg-ulation of imperial ordinance dated April 8th, 1895 which falls 35th year of Kojong. the dress regulation was based upon the western uniform.

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