• 제목/요약/키워드: Women's Jeogori

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국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》 속 등장인물의 복식 고찰 (Analysis of Clothing in a Painting Album of a 60th Wedding Anniversary Feast in the Collection of the National Museum of Korea)

  • 이은주
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제56권3호
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    • pp.76-98
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    • 2023
  • 국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》(덕수6375)에 묘사된 남녀 등장인물의 복식을 분석하고 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 추정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 주인공 노신랑은 <전안례도>와 <교배례도>에서는 평소 관원으로 착용하던 흑단령을 착용하였다. 그 외 <헌수례도>와 <접빈도>, <중뢰연도>에서는 패영 없는 자립에 옥색 포, 홍색 세조대를 둘렀다. 기럭아범은 자립에 귀 옆에 묶은 패영을 달고 흉배를 부착한 무문 흑단령을 착용하였다. 성인 남자 자손과 하객들은 도포 등 당시의 대표적인 포 종류를 착용하였는데 특히 무관으로 추정되는 인물들은 철릭, 직령을 착용하고 붉은 색 띠와 청색 계통의 띠를 신분에 맞추어 착용하였다. 징씨(徵氏) 등 안내자는 중치막과 홍단령을 착용하였으며 어린 동자들과 시동(侍童)은 중치막을 착용하였다. 술을 따르고 음식을 나르는 총각들은 땋은 머리에 소창의(小氅衣)를 입고 성인들은 전립(氈笠)에 소창의를 착용하였다. 군영 소속의 세악수들은 소색 소창의에 흑색 전복, 그리고 허리에 남색 포대 등 군복을 착용하였다. 둘째, 노신부는 <교배례도>에서는 거두미와 초록원삼 차림을 하였고 <헌수연도>에서는 남치마·옥색저고리 차림이 확인되었다. 여자 자손들은 어여머리에 비녀와 반자, 진주댕기 등의 칠보장식을 하였고 다양한 색상의 저고리에 남색과 홍색, 옥색 등의 치마를 입었다. 남치마에 초록 장옷을 입은 부인도 확인되었다. 홍치마에 초록색 회장저고리를 입은 <교배례도>의 동녀(童女) 4명은 낭자머리에 비녀 꽂고 도다익 댕기를 길게 드리웠으며 칠보족두리를 썼다. 비자(婢子)들은 어여머리에 가리마를 썼으며 양반 부인들과 유사한 치마·저고리를 착용하였으나 색상이 연했고 치마의 길이가 짧았으며 치마의 부풀림 정도가 약하였다. 기녀는 양반 부인과 비슷한 모습이었으나 색상이 덜 화려하였으며 어여머리에는 칠보장식이 없었다. 셋째, 주인공의 자립 착용, 철릭과 직령을 입은 하객들, 군영 소속 세악수 참여 등에 근거하여 회혼례의 주인공이 병조나 군영과 관련된 인물이었을 가능성을 제시하였으며 군영 악대의 전복의 소매 길이와 잠화 사용, 어여머리의 형태와 댕기, 저고리의 길이와 치마의 부풀린 형태 등에 근거하여 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 1760년대~1780년대로 추정하였다.

한복웨이브 프로젝트에 개발된 한국적 패션디자인의 특성 (Characteristics of Korean fashion design developed in the Hanbokwave project)

  • 박은주;이영주
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제31권2호
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    • pp.228-247
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    • 2023
  • In this study, an empirical analysis was conducted on the use of Korean design elements in the Hanbokwave project in 2022 in order to identify the expressed fashion characteristics and define Korean style. A case study was conducted on 98 items of clothing representing 10 Hanbok designer brands, and an analysis card was developed and used that classifies the silhouette of each item in detail. The analysis showed that in addition to the traditional skirt and Jeogori, the four stages of simulakr's image were prevalent in various fashion items such as shirts, blouses, jackets, crop tops, vests, dresses, and pants. In the composition of sleeves, many western clothing methods such as set-in-sleeve use and adjustment, hardcover buttons, and zippers were used to fuse the three-dimensional structure of western clothing and elements of traditional Hanbok to redefine it as postmodernism. It was recognized as a modern fashion, such as the trend of mixing and matching tops and bottoms, not a skirt and Jeogori set, by layering traditional clothes without hesitation or using them as a dress. As for the silhouette of the bottoms, the A-line showed a high frequency, and the prominent shape was identified as a traditional element widely used in modern Hanboks along with the element of wrinkles. This study is thought to be used as practical data for design development for the globalization of K-fashion in the future.

의복명칭의 분화를 통해 본 조선시대 복식문화 고찰 (A Study of the Clothing's Culture in Choseon Period with the Process of the Differentiating into Clothing′s Names : Focused on the Names of Unisex Clothing)

  • 김은정;강순제
    • 복식
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    • 제53권4호
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    • pp.149-162
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    • 2003
  • This study is designed for examining the names of men's and women's clothing of Choseon period, which can be divided into the upper, the lower, and the outer garments based on yu유, go고, po포 from the early period. Furthermore, amongst these various garments, this study shall define some kinds of clothing, which is shared its name and its use by both men and women, as the unisex clothing. Lastly we analyzed the special characteristics of this unisex clothing. With the names of clothing in Choseon period, we could understand about the difference of clothing's development by the names for the upper, lower, and outer garments as gender. And we also found the names for the unisex clothing in that period. The names of unisex clothing in Choseon period can roughly be divided into three garments; the upper, the lower, and the outer. Each category can also be subdivided into tku: i. e. the upper garments into jeogori저고리, hansam한삼, sama 삼아, jeoksam적삼, donguidae동의대, and godo고도; the lower garments into go고, gonja고자, and baji[paji파지, pachi파저]; and the outer garments into jangui장의, baeja배자, and juui주의. Furthermore, we can recognize that the shapes and uses of clothes in that period had been represented differently between the men's and women's.

현대 여자 한복에 나타난 전통 색상의 변화에 관한 연구 (A study on the change of traditional colors in modern women's Hanbok)

  • 박은주
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제30권5호
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    • pp.631-655
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    • 2022
  • Modern Hanbok tends to use new colors based on traditional colors and their symbolic meanings. In addition to the traditional colors, various expressions have been increased, it is necessary to consider the color and color trend used in modern clothing. This study focused on the period 2011 - 2020 and analyzed the main color and coloring method of top and skirt by year with 450 data from a total of 81 wedding magazines. The results of examining the characteristics of traditional colors during the target period are as follows. First, the main color of the Jeogori showed a distribution of various colors in the first half, but the main color of the skirt concentrated on black, white and light pink in the second half. Second, while the use of blue and green systems decreased, Dang-ui color changed to warm yellow, green, and red systems. The Baeja used plain dark white in the first half; however in the latter half, they changed to white or accented colors. The one-piece used various colors in the first half, but only black and white appeared in the second half. Third, in the upper and lower colors of Hanbok, the blue-red color, the traditional contrast color of the first half, decreased significantly in the second half. The appearance rate of proximity for the complementary color harmony of white-red color and the adjacent color harmony of white-blue increased.

한국 전통 장식 기법인 잣물림을 응용한 한국적 여성상의 디자인 개발 (A Study of the Development of Women's upper Clothing based on a Traditional Korean Style using the Decorative Techniques of the Jatmulim)

  • 김은정
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제15권2호
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    • pp.202-209
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    • 2013
  • This study suggests a new women's upper clothing based on traditional Korean costumes that utilize the Jatmulim. The Jatmulim is an example of the skill found in conditional Korean costumes and is of a small triangular shape. Jatmulim was developed in size, shape, and arrangement through the method of making and using children's Durumagi, the dancer's or shaman's Mongduri, and modern works. A total of five pieces of different women's clothing were suggested by applying the developed Jatmulim. In the first piece, the clothing is a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the construction of the Yoseon-Cheolik from the Joseon period and made with a larger sized Jatmulim in the back of the neckline and shoulders. In the second piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's jacket based on the Bansuui of the Joseon period with rectangular Jatmulim in the front neckline and at the end of the sleeves. In the third piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the Danryeong with rectangular Jatmulim in the neckline. In the fourth piece, the construction of the Jeogori is applied to the clothing for making a woman's jacket that has a bigger sized Jatmulim in the front part as a decoration. In the fifth work, the clothing is designed for a sleeveless blouse based on the Dapho with a different sized arrangement of the Jatmulim in the neckline.

보문의 유형과 조형성 연구 (A Study on the Type and Formative Characteristics of Bomun)

  • 이주영;장현주;도주연;장정아
    • 복식
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    • 제54권2호
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    • pp.11-23
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    • 2004
  • Bomun(Treasure Pattern), by its formative beauty and its symbol of good-luck, is mixed well with other patterns and produces another luxurious and gorgeous pattern with them. This study is to sort out Bomun patterned materials in the relics of Chosun dynasty, to classify the types of patterns according to its elements and to its arrangement, and to analyze their aesthetic characteristics in terms of fabrics, methods of putting patterns on fabrics, their usage, and symbols and aesthetics. The types of Bomun, in terms of their composition elements, are classified as Individual type, Compound Type Ⅰ, which is made with another Bomun, and Compound Type Ⅱ, which is compounded with plant patterns or with animal patterns. In terms of its arrangement, it is classified as Dense type, Sparse type, and Picturesque type, and the most popular type is the pattern of the dense type. Bomun was depicted in the fabric through a technique called Jimunbeop. It was used on both men's and women's clothing. It was mostly used in Po of men's clothing and in Jeogori(jacket) of women's clothing. Bomun connotes the meaning of good-luck, beating off evil spirits, Yin and Yang ideology, noble tastes, etc.

김현정의 한국화에 나타난 한국 전통 복식의 표현 특성 연구 (A Study on the Characteristic Expression of Korean Traditional Costumes shown in the Korean Paintings by Kim Hyun-Jung)

  • 나유신
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제23권2호
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    • pp.124-139
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    • 2019
  • The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristic expression of Korean traditional costumes shown in the Korean paintings by Kim Hyun-Jung. The study analyzed the paintings by Kim Hyun-Jung to find out the characteristics of the contemporary Korean paintings and the expression of Korean traditional costumes. The characteristics of Kim Hyun-Jung's works are as follows: 1) The paintings are drawn by using Korean traditional painting methods and finished with Korean traditional paper, hanji. Moreover, they show the Korean traditional costume as main subject material. 2) They use modern painting methods, such as collage, and show pop art characters by use of contemporary popular products. 3) The artist communicates with the public through SNS and YouTube, and shows characteristics of popular art through commercial art products and advertisements. The characteristics of the Korean traditional costume in Kim Hyun-Jung's works are as follows. 1) The hanbok shown in the paintings is a traditional style with tight jeogori and wide chima. Chima is drawn in thin coloring with Korean ink and jeogori is expressed with semi-transparent hanji in various patterns and colors, which shows the subject 'coy'. 2) Various kinds of Korean traditional accessories and modernized flower shoes with high heels are shown as subject materials. The art works by contemporary Korean artists are expected to be the route to give valuable information to the public about Korean traditional costumes as well as the trendy Korean culture.

표지화조문금(縹地花鳥紋錦)의 가치와 활용 - 백제문화권 스토리텔러복을 중심으로 - (The value and utilization of Pyojihwajomoonkeum (silk fabric with lingering flowers and bird patterns) - Focusing on Baekje cultural area storyteller clothing -)

  • 라선정
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제23권2호
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    • pp.147-153
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    • 2021
  • Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

Dendrochronological Dating of Coffin Woods from Hoamdong, Chungju, Korea

  • Park, Won-Kyu;Kim, Sang-Kyu;Han, Sang-Hyo
    • 한국가구학회지
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    • 제19권2호
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    • pp.130-136
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    • 2008
  • The objective of this study was to date coffin woods of a grave of husband and wife, using the tree rings, which were excavated from Hoamdong, Chungju city in the central area of South Korea. The species of coffin woods was Japanese Red Pine (Pinus densiflora S. et Z.), one of the major conifers growing in Korea. The husband coffin was dated as A.D. 1628. Due to the absence of bark in the wife's coffin, the number of sapwood rings was estimated to obtain the cutting date. The cutting date of wife's one was estimated to be A.D. 1651${\pm}$10. The Jeogori Jacket for women, which was found in the husband coffin, indicates that the husband died earlier than the wife, as the tree-ring dates suggested.

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관중숭불도에 나타난 16세기 복식연구 (A Study of Costumes in the Palace Painting Depicting the Worship of Buddha during the Reign of King Myungjong)

  • 홍나영;김소현
    • 복식
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    • 제38권
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    • pp.305-321
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    • 1998
  • The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

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