• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2007

Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

• Journal of the Institute of Convergence Signal Processing
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.166-172
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• 2012

The standard wave height measurement system is usually based on spectrum analysis for measuring wave height. The spectrum analysis is complicated because of the FFT, and the FFT is not for real time processing since it requires the saved data segments. In this paper, we carried out the performance evaluation of real-time and simpler wave height measurement system using the kalman filter and inertial sensors. The kalman filter theory is complicated, but its algorithm is simpler than the FFT and the kalman filter is used to estimate wave height by integrating acceleration data. But the accumulated error is occurred when the acceleration data is integrated. We developed the algorithm using the wind wave characteristic to decrease the accumulated error. In this paper, the performance evaluation of the wave height measurement system is carried out for various wind wave conditions. Through the experiments, we verified that it shows high measurement performance with the 3.5% margin of error in wind wave condition.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.273-286
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• 2021

In recent years, as human casualties and property damage caused by hazardous waves have increased in the East Sea, precise wave prediction skills have become necessary. In this study, the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) third-generation numerical wave model was calibrated and optimized to enhance the accuracy of winter storm wave prediction in the East Sea. We used Source Term 6 (ST6) and physical observations from a large-scale experiment conducted in Australia and compared its results to Komen's formula, a default in SWAN. As input wind data, we used Korean Meteorological Agency's (KMA's) operational meteorological model called Regional Data Assimilation and Prediction System (RDAPS), the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts' newest 5th generation re-analysis data (ERA5), and Japanese Meteorological Agency's (JMA's) meso-scale forecasting data. We analyzed the accuracy of each model's results by comparing them to observation data. For quantitative analysis and assessment, the observed wave data for 6 locations from KMA and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) were used, and statistical analysis was conducted to assess model accuracy. As a result, ST6 models had a smaller root mean square error and higher correlation coefficient than the default model in significant wave height prediction. However, for peak wave period simulation, the results were incoherent among each model and location. In simulations with different wind data, the simulation using ERA5 for input wind datashowed the most accurate results overall but underestimated the wave height in predicting high wave events compared to the simulation using RDAPS and JMA meso-scale model. In addition, it showed that the spatial resolution of wind plays a more significant role in predicting high wave events. Nevertheless, the numerical model optimized in this study highlighted some limitations in predicting high waves that rise rapidly in time caused by meteorological events. This suggests that further research is necessary to enhance the accuracy of wave prediction in various climate conditions, such as extreme weather.

• Journal of Wind Energy
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.25-33
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• 2023

In order to secure the safety of increasing offshore activities such as offshore wind farm maintenance and fishing, IMPACT, a mid-term marine weather forecasting system, was established by predicting marine weather up to 7 days in advance. Forecast data from the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA), which provides the most reliable marine meteorological service in Korea, was used, but wind speed and wave height forecast errors increased as the leading forecast period increased, so improvement of the accuracy of the model results was needed. The Model Output Statistics (MOS) method, a post-correction method using statistical machine learning, was applied to improve the prediction accuracy of wave height, which is an important factor in forecasting the risk of marine activities. Compared with the observed data, the wave height prediction results by the model before correction for 6 to 7 days ahead showed an RMSE of 0.692 m and R of 0.591, and there was a tendency to underestimate high waves. After correction with the MOS technique, RMSE was 0.554 m and R was 0.732, confirming that accuracy was significantly improved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.119-125
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• 2008

The aim of this study was to determine the characteristics of wave transformation in the shallow water of the Nakdong River estuary due to variations in air pressure, air temperature, wind speed, and wind direction. We analyzed the correlation between weather factors and wind waves in offshore regions near Geoje Island and the Nakdong River estuary in April and May 2007. The weather and wind wave data were obtained from the automatic ocean observation buoy near Geoje Island operated by the Korean Meteorological Administration (KMA). For the estuary region, the wind wave information was the result of field observations, and weather data were obtained from the Busan Meteorological Station. Field observations of water waves in April and May showed that the maximum wave height decreased by about 2.2 m. M oreover, wave height decreased significantly by about 1.3 m due to the reduction in wave energy caused by the water waves propagating from Geoje buoy to the Nakdong River estuary. We conclude that offshore or wind waves coming into the Nakdong River estuary showed considerable height variation due to the prevailing weather conditions, especially wind speed and direction. In particular, headwinds tended to decrease the wave size in inverse proportion to the wind speed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.333-342
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• 2012

We studied the characteristics of spatial distribution of global wave height and carried out the modelsensitivity test by changing the input field, model resolution and physical factor (effective wind factor) since the spatial and temporal resolution in wind wave forecasting is one of most important factors. Comparisons among the different cases, and also between model, buoy and satellite data have been made. As a results of the wind-wave model run using the high resolution wind field, the bias of significant wave height showed the positive tendency and the Root-Mean Square Error(RMSE) was a bit decreased based on the comparison with buoy data. When the model resolution was changed to higher, the bias and RMSE was increased, and as the effective wind factor was smaller than default value(= 1.4) the bias and RMSE showed also decreasing pattern.

• Wind and Structures
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.433-449
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• 2010

Wind tunnel model tests were conducted for a residential apartment block located within the complex terrain of The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology (HKUST). The test building is typical of medium-rise residential buildings in Hong Kong. The model study was conducted using modelling techniques and assumptions that are commonly used to predict design wind loads and pressures for buildings sited in regions of significant topography. Results for the building model with and without the surrounding topography were compared to investigate the effects of far-field and near-field topography on wind characteristics at the test building site and wind-induced external pressure coefficients at key locations on the building facade. The study also compared the wind tunnel test results to topographic multipliers and external pressure coefficients determined from nine international design standards. Differences between the external pressure coefficients stipulated in the various standards will be exacerbated when they are combined with the respective topographic multipliers.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.177-187
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• 2022

This study estimates the design wave in the event of a typhoon attack at Busan new port using the wind field, the revised shallow water design wave estimation method proposed by the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries in 2020, and proposed a reliable method of calculating the shallow water design through verification with the wave observation data. As a result of estimating typhoon wave using the wind field and SWAN numerical model, which are commonly used in the field work, for typhoon that affected Busan new port, it was found that reproducibility was not good except typhoons KONG-REY(1825) and MAYSAK(2009). In particular, in the case of typhoon MAEMI(0314), which had the greatest impact on Busan new port, the maximum significant wave height was estimated to be about 35.0% smaller than that of the observed wave data. Therefore, a plan to improve the reproducibility of typhoon wave was reviewed by applying the method of correcting the wind field and the method of using the Boussinesq equation numerical model, respectively. As a result of the review, it was found that the reproducibility of the wind field was not good as before when the wind field correction. However as a method of linking wind field data, SWAN model results, and Boussinesq numerical model, typhoon wave was estimated during typhoon MAEMI(0314), and the maximum significant wave was similar to the wave observations, so it was reviewed to have good reproducibility.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.7-15
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• 2010

Analyses of wind wave characteristics near the Korean marginal seas were performed in 2008 and 2009 by comparisons of an operational wind wave forecast model and ocean buoy data. In order to evaluate the model performance, its results were compared with the observed data from an ocean buoy. The model used in this study was very good at predicting the characteristics of wind waves near the Korean Peninsula, with correlation coefficients between the model and observations of over 0.8. The averaged Root Mean Square Error (RMSE) for 48 hrs of forecasting between the modeled and observed waves and storm surges/tide were 0.540 m and 0.609 m in 2008 and 2009, respectively. In the spatial and seasonal analysis of wind waves, long waves were found in July and September at the southern coast of Korea in 2008, while in 2009 long waves were found in the winter season at the eastern coast of Korea. Simulated significant wave heights showed evident variations caused by Typhoons in the summer season. When Typhoons Kalmaegi and Morakot in 2008 and 2009 approached to Korean Peninsula, the accuracy of the model predictions was good compared to the annual mean value.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.179-192
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• 2021

In this study, an integrated wave model from global to coastal scales was developed to improve the operational wave prediction performance of the Korean Meteorological Administration (KMA). In this system, the wave model was upgraded to the WaveWatch III version 6.07 with the improved parameterization of the source term. Considering the increased resolution of the wind input field and the introduction of the high-performance KMA 5^th Supercomputer, the spatial resolution of global and regional wave models has been doubled compared to the operational model. The physical processes and coefficients of the wave model were optimized for the current KMA global atmospheric forecasting system, the Korean Integrated Model (KIM), which is being operated since April 2020. Based on the sensitivity experiment results, the wind-wave growth parameter (β_max) for the global wave model was determined to be 1.33 with the lowest root mean square errors (RMSE). The value of β_max showed the lowest error when applied to regional/coastal wave models for the period of the typhoon season when strong winds occur. Applying the new system to the case of August 2020, the RMSE for the 48-hour significant wave height prediction was reduced by 13.4 to 17.7% compared to the existing KMA operating model. The new integrated wave prediction system plans to replace the KMA operating model after long-term verification.