• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.1-18
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• 2001

Korea huts been dramatically changed during the last century in many aspect of society, with the introduction of western culture in the beginning of 20th century. This study aims at understanding the changes in our traditional culture shown by costume as well as examining the aspects of the changes of traditional clothing according to age, by comparing the differences of our traditional dress Hanbok between ear1y and the late of the 20th century. Analysis of photographs showing Hanbok of both ages was used. 155 photographs of people wearing traditional Hanbok in the beginning of the 20th century were collected from the photo collection books portraying various living conditions of common people at that time. 748 Photographs of Hanbok worm today were obtained by taking pictures of various occasions like wedding ceremonies in 5 big cities during 1997. The process of analysis consists of 3 stages: setting standards, sorting, and grouping by positioning. The results showed that traditional Hanbok room in the early 20th century has maintained its basic silhouette and design during the century, but the methods of color coordination, ornamentation, construction have underdone many changes in detail. Consequently, traditional frame exits, but actually there are many variations of tradition produced by individual tastes and fashion trend. These changes show that continuing influx of the western culture which has made enormous social changes in Korea had an influence even on Hanbok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.37-48
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• 2009

This paper summarized the forming, structure and management of the Ui-Jeon(衣廛) in Joseon Dynasty, considered the change of the commercial power of the Ui-Jeon in the $18{\sim}19th$ centuries. The Ui-Jeon was established the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. The Ui-Jeon merchants organized the association named Dojung(都中) and were in business with facilities like Haenrang(行廊) and Doga(都家). The Ui-Jeon was mid-sized Si-Jeon, the licensed shop(市廛). The Ui-Jeon held the monopoly of clothes. The Ui-Jeon merchants sold and bought old clothes, sold new clothes, lent the wedding dress for a bridegroom. The Ui-Jeon paid taxes and supplied clothes, goods and sewing labor for the marriage, funeral ceremonies of the royal family. The commercial power of the Ui-Jeon was threatened by free merchants(私商) named old clothes mercants(破衣商). Finally the Ui-Jeon merchants lost the exclusive right to clothes in 1791. After that, the Ui-Jeon merchanrs appealed to the government to give them the monopoly. The Ui-Jeon merchants regained the sole right to sell Ju-ui(紬衣), one item only, but it was temporary. Separately The Ui-Jeon merchants acquired the rights to collect the sub-taxes(分稅) from free merchants.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.32-40
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• 2004

This study is done to assist in the limit of stage dress design research considering the sense of the times and the sympathy of spectators for actual stage. For the base research, to visualize the image which the spectators are feeling from Shakespeare's Hamlet, the evaluators had to analyze the whole image and color tone of the figures. First of all, 2 clothing for Hamlet, Gertrude and Ophelia had to be designed, and following conclusion has drawn. Hamlet A corresponds with passive looks which is a combination of loneliness, sadness and the unstable mental state of not adapting to and hiding from the reality. Hamlet B has more of matured looks which make Hamlet more free and comfortable from life and death as he overcame a crisis of death. Gertrude A corresponds with the image of coming right out of the funeral of late king. Gertrude B shows more of her sadness as she hears of her son Hamlet's despair and resentment and her maternal return degradation which is a special situations emphasizing her unstable and dizzy image. Ophelia A shows her usual and normal looks of a livelihood and femininity. She congratulates the wedding and coronation, and falls in love with Hamlet which shows a lot of her girlish image. Ophelia B shows dismantled rationality and violated virginity which is a very complex and unstable state showing a completely different image. Based on the above research. It was proposed their clothing through the next study of the characters, and personally make them for 2003 Yeonheedan Street Group's performance Hamlet.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.17-28
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to analyze the recognition of and the preference for a fashion specialist among students from 4-year and 2-year colleges in Taegu, in order to provide basic data for the effective management methods for the students. The objects of the survey were students in Taegu and Kyungbuk province; 287 students from 4-year colleges and 430 students from 2-year colleges, making the total of 717 students. The survey tool was a questionnaire, which consists of 7 general questions, 7 major curriculum related questions, and 6 questions regarding the information about a fashion specialist, and students career plan. It also contains 3-level Licurt type questionnaire on the recognition of and the preference for a fashion specialist from 20 professional fields. SPSS is used for frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, $x^2$-test and ANOVA. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The students' motivation in choosing their major as clothing and fashion design was out of independent career plan (86.7%). They were quite content with their major but were unsatisfactory with the current curriculum. 2. The subjects students thought necessary in preparing to be a fashion specialist were pattern, clothing construction (40.1%), clothing design (33.7%), and fashion marketing (18.9%). The answer to the question about the most important subject in the future was fashion marketing (57.2%). 3. What students consider most in choosing a job was aptitude and ability (70.8%). The most preferable clothing types that students want to work with after graduation were womens clothing (52.1%) and wedding dress (18.1%). 4. The means of getting information on a fashion specialist were magazines or broadcasting (72%) and school lectures (20.6%), and there was a significant deference among colleges. 5. Fashion coordinator was the highest recognized specialist (2.64) and the lowest was fashion converter (1.23) among other fashion specialists. 4-year college students had higher recognition in all areas (20 areas) than 2-year college students, and there was a significant deference among colleges in 20 areas.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.188-202
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• 2018

This study aimed to categorize women's body shapes by type after extracting prototypes of 25~34 year old Korean woman. The standardizing research service project conducted by the Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Energy in 2005, divided the age ranges of adult women into three groups: 18~24 years (young), 25~34 years (young-adult) and 35~49 years (adult). This study utilized this age division method to create a concrete body type categorization schema with the most marriageable period, 25 to 34 years old as target age the target age group. We used, measurement data from the 7th Korean Human Body Size Survey (Size Korea) for the body shape analysis. We completed a statistical analysis using the statistical program SPSS 21. After creating the body types using CLO 3D, which is based on the 7th Korean human body measurements, we input data for the average size for each type into the Avata. We then compared and analyzed the cross sections using the Rapidform XOR program. The results of the type-specific characteristics are as follows: big square body of obese body, small square body of plain flat body with tall, plain square body of plain flat with short, triangular body of lower body obesity there was. Significantly, the results of this study should facilitate the development of various apparel products using mass customization or easy-order systems.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.56 no.2
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• pp.80-98
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• 2023

In the late Joseon Dynasty, when the bride would ride a palanquin when she went to live with her in-laws, it was a custom to cover the palanquin with tiger skin to ward off misfortunes that may come her way. The higher classes used tiger skin or leopard skin for this purpose, but the common people had to substitute this expensive item with a tiger pattern painted on a blanket. Such blankets were called hotanja, hogu, hoguyok and the like. The term "hotanja" is a pure Korean word. It is not known when the cover for the bridal palanquin was first used, but it was popular from the end of the 19^th century and then gradually disappeared. This is due to the introduction of new Western style weddings that eliminated the need for a bridal palanquin. The tiger print blanket was used not only to cover the bride's palanquin but also to cover a table or floor during the wedding ceremony. This study ran a material analysis on nine pieces of tiger print blankets. All of the blanket artifacts examined in this study had an outer cover and a lining made of fabric that used cotton thread for the warp and wool thread for the weft. Two kinds of wool were found in the weft thread in the outer covers: fat-tailed sheep hair from China and goat hair for carpets from the Hebei province, China. Records show that "blankets with painted tiger patterns" were imported from Russia, and the imported blankets were from Russia and China. The outer cover can be categorized into six types, and the lining into three types depending on the weave and direction of the thread twist. The hem facing can be divided into four types. The lining and outer cover use the full width of the fabric, which was woven in wide widths of 135 cm or wider. The tiger pattern on the blanket was made by stenciling. The stencil design of the body and tail of the tiger were placed on a red blanket to be painted in white, and then the background color of the tiger, which is yellow, would be painted over the white, and then black stripes would be added. The pattern of the tiger varies, which shows that the blankets were made by various craftspeople. The pattern of the tiger print blanket is usually of a tiger lying down, but there were tiger print blankets with a tiger standing up. The pattern of the tiger grew smaller over time, and flower patterns were added in the background. Decorative elements were gradually added to the tiger print blanket patterns, but its function as a palanquin cover became lost. By taking the features of tiger print blankets into consideration, it can be assumed that there are imported pieces among the remaining pieces, and were produced in various places because it was popular at that time.