• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권11호
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• pp.1733-1743
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• 2009

The LOHAS trend is based on a present and future culture with a sustainable influence on the life of modem humans. This study examines the LOHAS trend to create a design that is practical and reflects a notion of LOHAS in quality. Design making is selected with three sub-themes under the concept 'With Us, Nature & High Touch' and the dress design that is suitable to the type and purpose of the parties following the concept. Theme A, "Neo-Classicism" is for a reception party. It made efficient use of 'Type of environmentally friendly material practical use + Type of multi-function design + Type of order production + Type of society morals design'. Theme B, "Between Virtual & Reality" is for a wedding reception. It made efficient use of 'Type of environmentally friendly material practical use + Type of multifunction design + Type of retrenchment design + Type of order production + Type of society morals design'. Theme C, "Arty Illusion" is for a cocktail party. It made efficient use of 'Type of Re-design + Type of nature motive practical use + Type of the higher sensitivity pursuit design + Type of order production + Type of society morals design'. This study explained that nature, environment, and a sense about society are put to practical use in fashion design through the creation of a fashion design to apply a LOHAS fashion design notion and a special quality.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권4호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2001

Korea huts been dramatically changed during the last century in many aspect of society, with the introduction of western culture in the beginning of 20th century. This study aims at understanding the changes in our traditional culture shown by costume as well as examining the aspects of the changes of traditional clothing according to age, by comparing the differences of our traditional dress Hanbok between ear1y and the late of the 20th century. Analysis of photographs showing Hanbok of both ages was used. 155 photographs of people wearing traditional Hanbok in the beginning of the 20th century were collected from the photo collection books portraying various living conditions of common people at that time. 748 Photographs of Hanbok worm today were obtained by taking pictures of various occasions like wedding ceremonies in 5 big cities during 1997. The process of analysis consists of 3 stages: setting standards, sorting, and grouping by positioning. The results showed that traditional Hanbok room in the early 20th century has maintained its basic silhouette and design during the century, but the methods of color coordination, ornamentation, construction have underdone many changes in detail. Consequently, traditional frame exits, but actually there are many variations of tradition produced by individual tastes and fashion trend. These changes show that continuing influx of the western culture which has made enormous social changes in Korea had an influence even on Hanbok.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2009

This paper summarized the forming, structure and management of the Ui-Jeon(衣廛) in Joseon Dynasty, considered the change of the commercial power of the Ui-Jeon in the $18{\sim}19th$ centuries. The Ui-Jeon was established the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. The Ui-Jeon merchants organized the association named Dojung(都中) and were in business with facilities like Haenrang(行廊) and Doga(都家). The Ui-Jeon was mid-sized Si-Jeon, the licensed shop(市廛). The Ui-Jeon held the monopoly of clothes. The Ui-Jeon merchants sold and bought old clothes, sold new clothes, lent the wedding dress for a bridegroom. The Ui-Jeon paid taxes and supplied clothes, goods and sewing labor for the marriage, funeral ceremonies of the royal family. The commercial power of the Ui-Jeon was threatened by free merchants(私商) named old clothes mercants(破衣商). Finally the Ui-Jeon merchants lost the exclusive right to clothes in 1791. After that, the Ui-Jeon merchanrs appealed to the government to give them the monopoly. The Ui-Jeon merchants regained the sole right to sell Ju-ui(紬衣), one item only, but it was temporary. Separately The Ui-Jeon merchants acquired the rights to collect the sub-taxes(分稅) from free merchants.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.32-40
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• 2004

This study is done to assist in the limit of stage dress design research considering the sense of the times and the sympathy of spectators for actual stage. For the base research, to visualize the image which the spectators are feeling from Shakespeare's Hamlet, the evaluators had to analyze the whole image and color tone of the figures. First of all, 2 clothing for Hamlet, Gertrude and Ophelia had to be designed, and following conclusion has drawn. Hamlet A corresponds with passive looks which is a combination of loneliness, sadness and the unstable mental state of not adapting to and hiding from the reality. Hamlet B has more of matured looks which make Hamlet more free and comfortable from life and death as he overcame a crisis of death. Gertrude A corresponds with the image of coming right out of the funeral of late king. Gertrude B shows more of her sadness as she hears of her son Hamlet's despair and resentment and her maternal return degradation which is a special situations emphasizing her unstable and dizzy image. Ophelia A shows her usual and normal looks of a livelihood and femininity. She congratulates the wedding and coronation, and falls in love with Hamlet which shows a lot of her girlish image. Ophelia B shows dismantled rationality and violated virginity which is a very complex and unstable state showing a completely different image. Based on the above research. It was proposed their clothing through the next study of the characters, and personally make them for 2003 Yeonheedan Street Group's performance Hamlet.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.17-28
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to analyze the recognition of and the preference for a fashion specialist among students from 4-year and 2-year colleges in Taegu, in order to provide basic data for the effective management methods for the students. The objects of the survey were students in Taegu and Kyungbuk province; 287 students from 4-year colleges and 430 students from 2-year colleges, making the total of 717 students. The survey tool was a questionnaire, which consists of 7 general questions, 7 major curriculum related questions, and 6 questions regarding the information about a fashion specialist, and students career plan. It also contains 3-level Licurt type questionnaire on the recognition of and the preference for a fashion specialist from 20 professional fields. SPSS is used for frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, $x^2$-test and ANOVA. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The students' motivation in choosing their major as clothing and fashion design was out of independent career plan (86.7%). They were quite content with their major but were unsatisfactory with the current curriculum. 2. The subjects students thought necessary in preparing to be a fashion specialist were pattern, clothing construction (40.1%), clothing design (33.7%), and fashion marketing (18.9%). The answer to the question about the most important subject in the future was fashion marketing (57.2%). 3. What students consider most in choosing a job was aptitude and ability (70.8%). The most preferable clothing types that students want to work with after graduation were womens clothing (52.1%) and wedding dress (18.1%). 4. The means of getting information on a fashion specialist were magazines or broadcasting (72%) and school lectures (20.6%), and there was a significant deference among colleges. 5. Fashion coordinator was the highest recognized specialist (2.64) and the lowest was fashion converter (1.23) among other fashion specialists. 4-year college students had higher recognition in all areas (20 areas) than 2-year college students, and there was a significant deference among colleges in 20 areas.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.188-202
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• 2018

This study aimed to categorize women's body shapes by type after extracting prototypes of 25~34 year old Korean woman. The standardizing research service project conducted by the Ministry of Commerce, Industry and Energy in 2005, divided the age ranges of adult women into three groups: 18~24 years (young), 25~34 years (young-adult) and 35~49 years (adult). This study utilized this age division method to create a concrete body type categorization schema with the most marriageable period, 25 to 34 years old as target age the target age group. We used, measurement data from the 7th Korean Human Body Size Survey (Size Korea) for the body shape analysis. We completed a statistical analysis using the statistical program SPSS 21. After creating the body types using CLO 3D, which is based on the 7th Korean human body measurements, we input data for the average size for each type into the Avata. We then compared and analyzed the cross sections using the Rapidform XOR program. The results of the type-specific characteristics are as follows: big square body of obese body, small square body of plain flat body with tall, plain square body of plain flat with short, triangular body of lower body obesity there was. Significantly, the results of this study should facilitate the development of various apparel products using mass customization or easy-order systems.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.80-98
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• 2023

조선 말기에 혼례를 마치고 신부가 시댁으로 가면서 가마를 타고 가는데 그 때 가마 위에 벽사의 뜻이 담긴 호피를 덮는 풍습이 있었다. 상류층을 중심으로 호피나 표피를 사용했으나 서민들 사이에서는 호랑이무늬를 그린 모포를 덮었다. 그 모포는 호탄자, 호구, 호구욕 등으로 불리었다. 신부 가마덮개가 처음 사용된 시기는 정확히 알 수 없으나 대략 19세기 말부터 1930년대까지 성행하다 점차 사라졌는데 신식혼례의 등장으로 신부의 가마가 필요 없어졌기 때문으로 추정된다. 호랑이무늬 모포는 신부 가마 위에 덮는 것뿐만 아니라 상 위에 덮거나 바닥에 깔기도 하였는데 모두 혼인식에 사용되었다. 호랑이무늬 모포 9점에 대한 성분 분석 결과 겉감과 안감의 경사는 무명실, 위사에는 모사(毛絲)가 사용되었다. 겉감의 위사에 사용된 모사는 2종류인데 중국의 비미종 양모와 중국 허베이성 카펫용 염소모로 밝혀졌다. 러시아에서 '호랑이 그린 무늬의 담요'가 수입되었다는 것과 중국에서 모물을 사들인 후 우리나라에서 깔개를 만들었다는 내용, 그리고 여러 기법의 모깔개를 제작했다는 사료를 고려해보면 중국과 러시아 등지에서 완제품으로 수입하기도 했고 국내에서 생산하기도 했다는 것으로 추정된다. 실물 조사한 호랑이무늬 모포 13점의 겉감은 직물의 조직과 실꼬임 방향에 따라 6종류가 있으며 안감은 3종류, 그리고 가선은 4종류로 분류되었다. 안감과 겉감은 한 폭을 그대로 사용한 것으로 직물의 폭이 최소 135cm의 광폭으로 직조하였다. 호랑이 무늬를 표현하는 방법은 공판화 기법이다. 빨간색 겉감 위에 호랑이 몸통과 꼬리의 도안을 대고 흰색을 칠한 후 호랑이의 바탕색인 노란색과 얼룩무늬인 갈색, 검은색의 순서로 칠한다. 호랑이무늬는 조금씩 달라서 여러 공방에서 제작된 것으로 추정된다. 호탄자의 무늬는 호피처럼 엎드린 상태로 그렸는데 서 있는 자세도 생겨나고 호랑이무늬는 작아지면서 가장자리에 화려한 꽃무늬를 그려 넣었다. 이같이 호탄자는 무늬에 장식적인 요소가 가미되는 변천을 겪다가 가마덮개로서의 기능이 상실되면서 점차 사라졌을 것으로 여겨진다. 현재 남아 있는 호랑이무늬 모포 중 수입품이 포함되어 있다는 점과 당시 유행이었던 점을 고려하면 여러 생산지에서 제작되었을 것으로 추정된다.