• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.939-951
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• 2007

This paper is about bridegroom's wedding robe, danryung(團領, a kind of official uniform) which can be found in the scenes of wedding ceremonies such as Chohaeng(初行, a ceremony that the bridegroom goes to the bride's house for wedding) and Hoehonrye(回婚禮, a ceremony that celebrates the $60^{th}$ wedding anniversary) in the genre paintings from the $18^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. In the documents of the $18^{th}$ and the $19^{th}$ centuries containing the wedding information of that period, danryung was described in various red tones ranging from Ja(紫, purple), Gang(絳 crimson), to Yeonhong(軟紅, pale pink). Similarly, red danryung(紅團領) was seen most frequently at the Chohaeng sights of the genre paintings. On the other hand, it was often depicted that the bridegrooms put on various colored danryungs at Hoehonrye. This was because bridegrooms at Hoehonrye wore their full dress according to their official ranks. In the genre paintings of the 18th century, all bridegrooms wore simple danryungs without hungbae(胸背, official insignia panel) except those in Hoehonrye painting where officials used hungbae. On the contrary, hungbae was discovered in the $19^{th}$ century Chohaeng paintings even though it was not precisely painted. This change of the bridegroom's danryung with hungbae attached was related to that of the official uniform system itself, in which black danryung with hungbae was exclusively used for officials. Afterwards it became the basis of the blue danryung of the present day.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.160-177
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• 2002

Wedding ceremony is a most basic and significant rite of religion. Clothing fur the ceremony is also assumed religious in essence. Thus this study focuses on ideas and religious qualities implied in wedding dresses for women in the latter period of Chosen. Among those wedding dresses for women in the public class, in this study, Yeom-Eui(염의), Won-Sam(원삼) in green and Hwal-Ot(활옷) are discussed. Yeom-Eui seemed preferred by only some of the nobel class who still considered manners and customs as very important. The rest people often wore a brilliant Hwal-Ot rather than Yeom-Eui under influences of a loosened social position system and sumptuous moods. Since a wedding is the reflection of social condition and at the same time a religious rite, the above mentioned difference in wedding dresses between the class of scholars obsessed with Confucianism and the rest public seems attributable to differences in values and religious views between the two groups. Of course, Hwal-Ot was also transmitted from the Chinese nation of Tang, so it complied with a contemporary flunkeyism about Chinese culture. Won-Sam and Hwal-Ot were designed with patterns representing the very significance of wedding and those wishing worldly blessings more children and more sons, longevity and wealth and prosperity. The fact that wishes of more children and more sons were more often implied by patterns of wedding dress in the latter Chosen indicates the legitimate oldest son-oriented patriarchical family system at that time influenced to such contemporary dresses. Meanwhile, those patterns used for Won-Sam and Hawl-Ot were influenced mainly by Confucianism, but sometimes based on Buddhism and Taoism. It suggests that the Chosun dynasty emphasized Confucian manners and customs to restore previous values which had been about to be collapsed since wars with the Chinese Ching and Japan, but nevertheless in the public class, Buddhism and Taoism were more deeply prevailed. This was supported by patterns and colors shown in wedding clothing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.117-124
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• 2008

People have used the manner of expression "clothing" to find out and to symbolize the styles that suits one's roles, behaviors or altitudes. Moreover, the symbolic meaning of clothing is important as it reflects the culture of a time period as well at the life style of each classes of society. In the aspect in which clothing is critical data to re-examine a time period as to trace history, clothing is significant for understanding the characteristics of each time periods, and by focusing on women's wedding dress, a costume worn for one of the most essential ceremonies in one's life, this article studies how trends of each period have been symbolized through clothing. Thus, this study aims to set a foundation to understand the cultural features of a time period through the wedding ceremony. The article inquires about the hwalot to also understand its meaning during the period of its existence, and develops designs for modern wedding dresses for women. I. The wedding dress of women expressed the following meanings by using shapes, colors and patterns of the hwalot. 1) The formative art of hwalot is the ultimate beauty. 2) The wedding dress of women emphasized aesthetics. 3) The symbols praying for harmony between red and indigo, or the union of yin and yang indicates that marriage had been considered as a precious ceremony-an important matter of life. 4) The meaning of good auspice such as health, longevity, immortality, good luck and stability had been frequently used since people sought for new and eternal life. 5) The symbols of wealth and fame have been frequently used by those pursuing a wealthy life. 6) Marriage was considered as a union of families, and not a union of two individuals. II. This article presents two types of modern wedding dresses.

• 가정과삶의질연구
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.53-66
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• 2013

The purpose of this research is to assess the need for wedding etiquette training for couples in order to provide basic educational materials for brides and grooms-to-be. This survey consisted of 43 questions. The questions pertaining to the need for wedding etiquette training were measured using the 5-point Likert scale. The survey was conducted between September 1st, 2011 and December 1st, 2011. The research subjects consisted of 230 brides and grooms-to-be. Questionnaires were analyzed by frequency analysis, F-test, t-test, and correlation analysis using SPSS/win17.0. Based on our findings, we would like to make the following proposals and conclusions. First, as the importance of a wedding education program could be ascertained, educational demands need to be gathered and applied to the operation of such programs. The education and training programs need to be activated by wedding preparation education centers or the Health and Family Support Center, on weekends or week nights 3 months prior to a couple's wedding ceremony. Second, wedding etiquette training content needs to be included in existing education programs that primarily focus on helping couples adapt to married life. Such training content should specifically include the etiquette of exchanging wedding presents, home life etiquette, etiquette for the formal meeting between the families of the bride and bridegroom, pyebaek etiquette and ham (a box of wedding gifts sent by a bridegroom to his bride before the wedding) etiquette. Third, when examining the particulars of the need for wedding etiquette training, we came to the conclusion that couples should be properly educated about the meaning and value of the wedding presents, pyebaek and ham that are required during traditional wedding ceremonies. Fourth, the need for wedding etiquette training was shown to be higher for women than for men. It was also higher for individuals in specialized fields than for ordinary company employees. Wedding etiquette training programs need to be structured with such considerations in mind. Fifth, when structuring the program for wedding etiquette training, the correlation of the needs for training should be considered. It is necessary to prepare training plans by dividing the program into the following categories: the formal meeting between the families of the bride and the bridegroom, ham and wedding presents, wedding ceremony etiquette, pyebaek, and home life etiquette training.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.51-60
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• 2005

This ethnography is on the passage ritual clothes in Incheon province. This ethnography invatigates in two villages of people who has same family name -Family 'Cheung' (from Young-il) in Yeonsoo-dong and Family 'Lee'(from Cheun-joo) in dongyang-dong- in August to December 2003. The object of examination is 80's and 70's old women who have lived and had lived up to recent in two villages. (grand mother Sung, Cho, Cheung and yoon) The clothes of passage ritual are Baenaeoht is the first clothes of the newborn baby(swaddling), A wedding ceremony clothe is the clothing for the coming-of-age ceremony, Honryebouk is the clothing for wedding, Sangbouk in the clothing for mourning, shroud is the clothing for the dead, sacrificial robes. The result of ethnogrphy is the passage ritual clothes in Incheon Province similar with other Provinces in aspect of the name and the form and wearing of the clothes. there are remarkable differences in making method from making by oneself to purchase(swaddling$\cdot$shroud), westernize(clothes for wedding and mourning), simplification (sacrificial) between ritual for their parents and their husband and children.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.135-152
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• 2022

Recent weddings have been performed in more unique and characterful styles going beyond the existing same old method of past weddings, and they are changed into small weddings with simplified style without unnecessary procedures by choosing a wedding venue different from others. It is necessary to develop a new wedding dress design suitable for such changing wedding culture, and especially, dresses are required to have some practical designs, so that they can be worn not only for the wedding ceremony or party but also for everyday life. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to develop a new normal wedding dress for small weddings that reflect design according to the emerging small wedding culture. To this end, a theoretical review of small weddings was conducted, and based on this, a new normal wedding dress design was developed for small weddings. Based on practicality and economic feasibility, the New Normal Wedding Dress exhibited 'variable by wearing method' that changes according to the wearer's purpose and 'variable by attaching and detaching method' that changes according to the detachment of details. The small wedding dress developed through this study is expected to become a new standard for wedding dresses that is suitable for the changing wedding culture.

• 복식
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• 제64권5호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2014

This study explores women's Wonsam in the 18th century. Wonsam was women's wedding dress, one of the representative ceremonial garments of Korea. Wonsam began to appear in the excavated clothes around the 18th century, and we can find drawings and records of the period in Yongjae Collections by Kim-kunhaeng. The form of Wonsam after the 17th and 18th centuries showed the changes in which Seop and Mu disappeared in Baeja form of Danryoung(團領) and the right and left symmetry and side slits were highlighted. The change also included wide and long sleeves and Sakdong(색동) colorful strips on the sleeves), Hansam ornaments, and the use of the belt, which means the change of Baeja composition into our traditional costume of the age. Through the Colletions, we notice that women wore Wonsam in different colors and with varying hair accessories according to the nature of ceremony, the social status, and marital status. Concerning Wonsam, the color of clothing for the dead woman was green(喪禮), while that for marriage ceremony was red(婚禮). Wonsam with the light color was for ceremonial clothing(祭禮). The women who served in the palace wore green Wonsam and Geodumi, while a bride at the marriage ceremony wore red Wonsam or a red long-sleeved robe with Jokduri. At the ceremony of Hyeongunorye, women wore Wonsam with a wig. the dead woman wore Yemou.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2005년도 Fasion road:Korea to belarus
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• pp.37-40
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• 2005

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제29권
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• pp.1-32
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• 2023

국립중앙박물관이 소장하고 있는 필자미상회혼례도(筆者未詳回婚禮圖)(덕수6375)는 회혼례의 장면을 그린 다섯 폭의 화첩이다. 회혼례는 부부의 혼인 60년을 기념하여 혼례식을 다시 행하며 주변의 축하를 받는 기념행사로, 이 화첩에는 전안례, 교배례, 헌수례, 접빈, 중뢰연의 장면을 기록하였는데 인물과 건축물, 여러 가지 기물 등을 섬세한 필치로 세밀하게 묘사한 회화 자료이다. 제작 기법 연구를 위해 현미경, 적외선, 엑스선 조사와 함께 초분광영상분석이 사용되었다. 비가시영역에 대하여 밑그림 확인, 색상에 따라 사용된 안료와 염료를 구별하고자 하였다. 엑스선형광분석으로 안료의 성분을, 자외선-가시광선분광분석으로 염료의 종류를 판별하였다. 현미경 조사를 통해 확인된 회혼례도에 사용된 직물의 재료는 섬유의 꼬임이 거의 없는 생견사이며 평직으로 제직된 평견직물로 확인되었다. 초분광영상분석과 엑스선형광분석, 자외선-가시광선분광분석으로 백색은 연백, 흑색은 먹으로 확인되었 다. 적색은 주토, 진사, 진사와 연단 혼합, 갈색은 주토 및 유기 염료, 황색은 등황을 사용한 것을 알 수 있었다. 녹색은 쪽, 석록, 크롬그린과 황화바륨, 청색은 석청, 회청, 쪽으로 확인되었다. 자색은 쪽과 연지충 혼합으로 추정되었고 금색은 금분을 사용한 것으로 나타났다. 초분광영상에서 보존처리 영역을 식별하여 손상부분과 보존처리부분 등을 구분할 수 있었다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권11호
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• pp.141-156
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• 2002

This study is about the wedding culture of Seoul and Kyungsangdo. This paper is a qualitative study that is based on interviews. As a result of this study, it became clear that before the industrialization of South Korea, there were different characteristics of wedding culture in each region. However, the unique characteristics of wedding customs in each region have been degenerated or exterminated, in tandem with the influx of customs from other regions, due to the dramatic urbanization of South Korea, and the development of transport and communication that appeared in the process of modernization. Furthermore, wedding customs were transformed from ceremonies based on a regional and kin-based community into those that were no more than mere events, which was derived from the industrialization and urbanization of Korea.