• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.36-46
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• 2017

Most of the studies on the hydraulic characteristics of wave-current interaction have used 2-D hydraulic experiments or 2-D numerical simulations. However, it is difficult to understand the wave-current interaction found in actual estuaries using these. Therefore, a numerical water tank was constructed in this study to perform simulations involving a 3-D river mouth. The result showed a change in the water surface at the river mouth from the wave-current interaction. With an increase in the ratio ($V_c/C_i$) between the river current and wave celerity, the wave height and mean water level of the river increased at the wave and current meeting point. A higher $V_c/C_i$ caused a stronger wave-current interaction and increased the turbulence kinetic energy. Thus, the wave height attenuation became larger by the wave-current interaction with a higher $V_c/C_i$. In addition, it was possible to understand the flow characteristics in the vicinity of the river mouth as a result of the wave-current interaction using the mean flow and mean time-averaged velocity at the mid-cross section of river.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.26-33
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• 1992

파-흐름의 공존장에서 실트질 점토의 부상특성을 연구하기 위해 조파수조에 흐름발생장치를 설치하며 파낭만 존재하는 경우, 순류 및 역류가 존재하는 경우에 대해서 장적물의 부상실험을 하였다. 역류가 작용할 때가 순류가 작용할 때보다 부상량이 훨씬 많았는데 이는 역류가 작용할 때는 저면에 난류성분이 발달하지만, 순류가 작용할 때는 진동류 효과가 감소하기 때문이다. 파-흐름의 공존장에서 실트질 점토의 부상양계저면전단응력은 $ au$$_{c}$~0.045 N/$m^2$인 것으로 추정되었다. 초기부상률과 저면전단응력과의 관계식 및 초기부상률과 측정된 유의파고와의 관계식이 도출되었는데, 초기부상률과 저면전단응력과의 관계는 상당히 분산되어 나타났으나, 초기부상률과 측정된 유의파고와의 관계는 상관성이 양호하게 나타났다. 파동하에서 장적물의 농도가 거의 평형상태에 도달했을 때에 농도의 연직경사로부터 산정된 장적물의 연직확산계수는 저면에서 수심의 1/2 지점까지는 지수형태로 증가하는 양상을 나타냈으나, 그 이상부터는 수심에 관계없이 거의 일정하게 나타났다.다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.166-179
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• 2018

본 연구는 파-흐름의 공존장에 설치된 3차원투과성잠제에 관해 흐름방향에 따라 변화되는 잠제 주변에서 파고분포와 같은 수면변동의 특성 및 설상사주의 주요외력으로 작용하는 평균유속, 연안류 및 난류운동에너지 등을 포함한 유속장의 특성을 수치적으로 검토하였다. 수치해석에는 오픈소스 CFD 코드인 olaFlow를 적용하였으며, 대상파랑은 규칙파와 불규칙파로 하였다. 수치해석결과로부터 흐름방향(순방향과 역방향)에 따른 잠제 제간부 배후에서 파고변화는 난류운동에너지와 밀접한 관계를 가지며, 흐름이 존재하는 경우는 흐름이 없는 경우보다 약한 연안류가 형성됨과 동시에 수송유량이 감소되는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 이로부터 흐름의 유무 및 방향이 잠제 배후에 형성되는 설상사주의 형성과정에 미치는 영향을 파악할 수 있었다.

• Water Engineering Research
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.75-84
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• 2002

An Euler-Lagrange two-phase flow model is presented fur simulation sheet-flow transport under wave and current. The flow is computed by solving the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation in conjunction with the k-$\varepsilon$ turbulence model for turbulence closure. The sediment transport is introduced as a motion of granular media under the action of unsteady flow from the Lagragian point of view. In other word, motion of every single particle is numerically traced with Movable Bed Simulator (MBS) code based on the Distinct Element Method (DEM), in which the frequent interparticle collision of the moving particles during the sheet-flow transport is sophisticatedly taken into account. The particle diameter effect on time-dependent developing process of sheet-flow transport is investigated, by using three different diameter sizes of sediment. The influence of an imposed current on oscillatory sheet-flow transport is also investigated. It is concluded that the sediment transport rate increases due to the relaxation process related to the time-lag between flow velocity and sediment motion.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• 수산해양기술연구
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.101-115
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• 2007

The pound net fishery is very important one in Korean coastal fishery and it need to grasp the characteristics of the net affected by many factors. It is considered that the structure and the shape of the pound net can be changed by the direction and speed of current, wave height, depth and conditions of sea bed. However, most of all, the speed of current and wave height influence more upon the pound net than any other factors to deform and flutter. In this study, author carried out the experiments with a model of double one-side pound net made by the similarity law as 1:100 scales at a real experimental area, and additionally the model net experiments were conducted in the circulating water channel in Pukyong National University. The author analyzed the data of transformation of shape and tension of the model pound net to recognize the characteristics of the current and wave acting on it. Regardless of the direction of flow affecting on the fish court net or bag net, the deformed angle and depth to the side panel and bottom of box nets becomes bigger as the wave gets higher and the period of wave is faster. The tension in both upward or downward tends to be changed by the speed of wave. Those value of changes occurred similarly in either fish court net or bag net. Generally, when bag net is located at upward of flow, the value of tension was bigger 10% than any other location or nets. Regardless of the setting direction, the tension of the pound net is increased in proportion to flow speed, wave height and period of wave, and it becomes bigger about 15-30% at upward to flow than downward. Where the flow is upward in the court net, the tension in the wave increased to 37% compared to the one in the flow only in the condition of flow of 0.1-0.3m/s. Where the flow is upward in the bag net, the tension in the wave increased to 52% in the flow of 0.1m/s, and the tension increased to 48% in the flow of 0.2-0.3m/s.

• 한국습지학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.107-115
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• 2021

서해 개야수로 인근의 파랑전파, 해수유동, 퇴적물이동을 분석하기 위해서 각종 인공구조물 설치 전(CASE1W)과 후(CASE2W)로 분류하고, CASE1W와 CASE2W에 대한 계산결과를 비교하였다. 파랑전파에 대해서는 SWAN 수치모형을 이용하여 입사파와 반사파의 결과를 도출하였고, 해수유동에 대해서는 FLOW2DH 수치모형을 이용하여 해수유동에 따른 유속 결과를 도출하였다. SWAN 수치모형과 FLOW2DH 수치모형의 결과는 퇴적물이동을 예측하는 SEDTRAN 수치모형의 입력조건이 되어 개야수로 인근의 최대 저면전단응력과 부유사 농도분포를 계산하였다. SWAN 수치모형 계산결과, CASE2W의 경우 약 7 km 길이의 북측 도류제에 의해서 입사파가 회절 및 중첩되고, 반사파가 생성되어 개야수로 인근의 파고를 CASE1W에 비해 40~50 % 증가시켰다. FLOW2DH 수치모형 계산결과, 북방파제, 북측 도류제 및 금란도에 의해서 개야수로의 유속이 CASE1W과 대비하여 CASE2W가 10~30 % 빠르게 계산되었다. SEDTRAN 수침모형의 계산결과, 복합 파랑장(입사파, 반사파, 조석)에 따른 해양환경과 각종 인공구조물의 설치에 의해서 개야수로의 최대 저면전단응력이 1.0 N/m² 이상인 구간과 부유사농도가 80 mg/L 이상인 구간이 넓게 분포되었다는 것은 개야수로에 퇴적현상이 발생한 것이라고 판단된다.

• 한국항해항만학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국항해항만학회 2000년도 춘계학술대회논문집
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• pp.75-81
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• 2000

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develop as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. This wave-current model was applied to the Kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.6-10
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• 2001

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develope as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. It starts from Berkhoff's(1972) mild slope equation and is transformed to time-dependent hyperbolic type equation by using variational principal. Finally the governing equation is shown as a parabolic type equation by splitting method. This wave-current model was applied to the kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• Korean Journal of Hydrosciences
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• 제1권
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• pp.73-97
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• 1990

A literature review is made on the numerical models of wave-induced currents. The major processes of the flow system are wave breaking, bottom friction of combined wave-current flow and mixing processes primarily caused by wave breaking as well as the flow fields of waves and currents themselves. The survey is given to each item with great emphasis on numerical implication as well as physical mechanism. As noted is the importance in recent investigations, a brief treatment is also given on the currents driven by random or spectral waves.