• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• v.2 no.3
• /
• pp.189-203
• /
• 2012

New experiments focusing on the evolution characteristics of nonlinear wave trains were conducted in a large wave flume. A series of wave trains with added sidebands, varying initial steepness, perturbed amplitudes and frequencies, were physically generated in a long wave flume. The experimental results show that the increasing wave steepness, increases the speed of sidebands growth. To study the frequency and phase modulation, the Morlet wavelet transform is adopted to extract the instantaneous frequency of wave trains and the phase functions of each wave component. From the instantaneous frequency, there are local frequency downshifts, even an effective frequency downshift was not observed. The frequency modulation increases with an increase in amplitude modulation, and abrupt changes of instantaneous frequencies occur at the peak modulation. The wrapped phase functions show that in the early stage of the modulation, the phase of the upper sideband first diverges from that of the carrier waves. However, at the later stage, the discrepancy phase from the carrier wave transformed to the lower sideband. The phase deviations appear in the front of the envelope's peaks. Furthermore, the evolution of the instantaneous frequency exhibits an approximate recurrence-type for the experiment with large imposed sidebands, even when the corresponding recurrence is not observed in the Fourier spectrum.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.10 no.4
• /
• pp.149-159
• /
• 1996

Multipurpose development of the coast and ocean can be considered as multifunction construction combining the functions of coastal protection, waterfront amenity and creation or rehabilitation of habitats. Multfunction development of coastal and ocean spaces can be accomplished by applying the ecosystem control structure of artificial habitats which will cultivate fishing ground with ecological harmony to the coastal protection system. To evaluate the applicability of ecosystem control structures as as fundamental coastal protection structure, wave control function of the structure is studied by numerical and physical analyses. Dimensional analysis and hydraulic experiment point out the importance of width and crest depth of ecosystem control structure, construction water depth and wave steepness. Wave control efficiency is estimated by the attenuation coefficient $(K_H)$ according to wave steepness $(H_0/L_0)$, relative constructed water depth $(h_i/H_0)$, relative berm width $(B/L_0)$ and relative crest depth $(h_B/H_0)$ of eosystem control structure. Empirical fomulas are suggested based on the results of model test by applying the multiple model based on this experimental results and numerical wave shoaling-dissipation-breaking model appears to be valid for the analysis of wave transformation around ecosystem control structure in the coastal waters.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
• /
• 2003.08a
• /
• pp.376-381
• /
• 2003

The reliability analysis of overtopping probability is proposed. In order to estimate the expected overtopping probability of the rubble mound breakwater, the experimental results of individual wave runup height is applied for the analysis of irregular wave system. The joint distribution of wave heights and periods is used for the input data of runup calculation because the runup height depends on the wave height and period. The runup heights during the one event that the design wave attacks the rubble mound breakwater extend to the one life cycle of 60 years. Utilizing the Monte-Carlo method, the one life cycle is tried more about 60 times for obtaining the expected value of overtopping probability. It is found that the inclusion of the variability of wave tidal and wave steepness has great influence on the computation of the expected overtopping probability of rubble mound breakwater. The previous design disregarding the tidal fluctuation largely overestimates or underestimates the expected overtopping probability depending on tidal range and wave steepness.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.305-312
• /
• 1995

In general, the radiation stresses based on the linear wave theory are overestimated which result in the discrepancy between the computed results and laboratory data of mean water level in the surf zone. Oh (1995) estimated the mean water level by using Svendsen's radiation stress model (1984) and compared with the experimental data. In this study. the computed results showed good agreements with the experimental data in the case of small wave steepness. while the results were overestimated in the case of large wave steepness. In this paper. the dimensionless radiation stress proposed by Svendsen (1984) is expressed in terms of relative water depth at breaking point and deep water wave steepness. The computed results are compared with the results calculated by d linear wave theory, Stive's model (1984). Sawaragi et al's model (1984) based on the spectrum of breaking wave components. and published laboratory data. The computed results of the modified Svendsen's model arc favourably compared with the laboratory data.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
• /
• v.35 no.2
• /
• pp.38-50
• /
• 1998

In order to understand the characteristics of floating breakwaters we planned series of experimental and numerical investigations and completed the first stage which is the experiment with fred pontoons near the free surface. As controlling parameters the draft and breadth of pontoon were varied and the wave frequency and steepness were also varied. Wave transmission and forces exiled on the breakwater were experimentally investigated and compared with the results computed based on linear potential theory. Discussions made are on the effect of draft and wave length on the wave transmission and force in fixed pontoon case. The predicted and measured results show quantitatively good agreement both in forces and transmission coefficient. The effect of separation distance between two pontoons on the wave transmission and force in array case is also examined.

• Journal of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute of Korea
• /
• v.34 no.1
• /
• pp.59-69
• /
• 2021

Recently, large-scale offshore and coastal structures have been constructed owing to the increasing interest in eco-friendly energy development. To achieve this, precise simulations of waves are necessary to ensure the safe operations of marine structures. Several experiments are required in the field to understand the offshore wave; however, in terms of scale, it is difficult to control variables, and the cost is significant. In this study, numerical waves under various wave conditions are produced using a piston-type wavemaker, and the produced wave profiles are verified by comparing with the results from a numerical wave tank (NWT) modeled using the smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method and theoretical equations. To minimize the effect by the reflected wave, a mass-weighted damping zone is set at the right end of the NWT, and therefore, stable and uniform waves are simulated. The waves are generated using the linear and Stokes wave theories, and it is observed that the numerical wave profiles calculated by the Stokes wave theory yield high accuracy. When the relative depth is smaller than two, the results show good agreement irrespective of the wave steepness. However, when the relative depth and wave steepness are larger than 2 and 0.04, respectively, the errors are negligible if the measurement position is close to the excitation plate. However, the error is 10% or larger if the measurement position is away from the excitation location. Applicable target wave ranges are confirmed through various case studies.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.33 no.4
• /
• pp.1455-1462
• /
• 2013

This study examines the reflection of a partially perforated wall with single chamber by 2D and 3D hydraulic experiments. The effects of slit shape on the front wall, relative chamber width and wave steepness were discussed. For the normal incident wave condition, the reflections of horizontal slit case were lower than that of the vertical slit with the similar porosity, but the differences are not significant. When the wave steepness is relatively small, the reflection coefficients are large. In the oblique incidence, the normalized wave heights along a perforated wall with similar porosity are almost same for the vertical and horizontal slit walls and therefore the difference by slit shape can be ignored.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
• /
• v.9 no.2
• /
• pp.160-176
• /
• 2017

The interaction of focused wave groups with a vertical wall is investigated based on the second order potential theory. The NewWave theory, which represents the most probable surface elevation under a large crest, is adopted. The analytical solutions of the surface elevation, velocity potential and wave force exerted on the vertical wall are derived, up to the second order. Then, a parametric study is made on the interaction between nonlinear focused wave groups and a vertical wall by considering the effects of angles of incidence, wave steepness, focal positions, water depth, frequency bandwidth and the peak lifting factor. Results show that the wave force on the vertical wall for obliquely-incident wave groups is larger than that for normally-incident waves. The normalized peak crest of wave forces reduces with the increase of wave steepness. With the increase of the distance of focal positions from the vertical wall, the peak crest of surface elevation, although fluctuates, decreases gradually. Both the normalized peak crest and adjacent crest and trough of wave forces become larger for shallower water depth. For focused wave groups reflected by a vertical wall, the frequency bandwidth has little effects on the peak crest of wave elevation or forces, but the adjacent crest and trough become smaller for larger frequency bandwidth. There is no significant change of the peak crest and adjacent trough of surface elevation and wave forces for variation of the peak lifting factor. However, the adjacent crest increases with the increase of the peak lifting factor.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
• /
• 2003.05a
• /
• pp.157-164
• /
• 2003

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
• /
• v.5 no.4
• /
• pp.203-210
• /
• 2018

It is generally known that submerged breakwaters can reduce the incoming wave energy without disturbing the beach scenery. However, a submerged breakwater is also able to cause a setup of the sea level in the protected area which is also called as water piling-up. Since the piling-up can result in longshore currents, sediment transports, and unexpected beach erosion, understanding about the piling-up process is required prior to designing the nearshore structures. In this study, the water piling-up behind a submerged breakwater is assessed in the time of storm events. For the study area, Anmok beach in Gyeonso-dong, Gangwon-do is selected. 1-year, 5-year, 10-year, and 50-year return-values were derived from Peaks-Over-Threshold(POT) method and those are applied as offshore boundary conditions for the numerical simulation. The numerical results of the piling-up were assessed with regard to the wave steepness and the height of the submerged breakwater. With increase of both significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater, the piling-up parameter is also increased which can lead to erosion of dry beach behind the structure.