• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.406-418
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• 2020

In this study, a nonlinear wave simulation code is developed using a higher-order spectral (HOS) method. The HOS method is very efficient because it can determine the solution of the boundary value problem using fast Fourier transform (FFT) without matrix operation. Based on the HOS order, the vertical velocity of the free surface boundary was estimated and applied to the nonlinear free surface boundary condition. Time integration was carried out using the fourth order Runge-Kutta method, which is known to be stable for nonlinear free-surface problems. Numerical stability against the aliasing effect was guaranteed by using the zero-padding method. In addition to simulating the initial wave field distribution, a nonlinear adjusted region for wave generation and a damping region for wave absorption were introduced for wave generation simulation. To validate the developed simulation code, the adjusted simulation was carried out and its results were compared to the eighth order Stokes theory. Long-time simulations were carried out on the irregular wave field distribution, and nonlinear wave propagation characteristics were observed from the results of the simulations. Nonlinear adjusted and damping regions were introduced to implement a numerical wave tank that successfully generated nonlinear regular waves. According to the variation in the mean wave steepness, irregular wave simulations were carried out in the numerical wave tank. The simulation results indicated an increase in the nonlinear interaction between the wave components, which was numerically verified as the mean wave steepness. The results of this study demonstrate that the HOS method is an accurate and efficient method for predicting the nonlinear interaction between waves, which increases with wave steepness.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.178-186
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• 1992

An experimental study of deep-water breaking waves are performed by superposition of different wave frequencies, faster waves overtaking slow waves at a certain location. Large spilling and plunging breaking waves are generated near the expected breaking location. Wave steepness in spilling and plunging breakers significantly increases as the breaking point is approached and then decreases after breaking. Larger growth rate of the wave steepness in vigorous plunging breaking is observed. The fundamental wave frequencies in a wave group are dominant through the wave evolution, even in an intense plunging breaking event.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.750-757
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• 2016

This study presents the wave run-up height around single and multiple surface-piercing cylinders according to wave period and steepness. In order to simulate 3D incompressible viscous two-phase turbulent flow, the present study employed a volume of fluid (VOF) method with realizable $k-{\varepsilon}$ turbulence model based on commercial Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) software, "STAR-CCM". The wave periods at model scale were 1.269s and 1.692s for a single cylinder and 1.716s for multiple cylinders. In each case, wave steepness of has 1/30 and 1/16 were used, respectively. Consequently, the results for wave run-up height with regard to wave steepness and period were compared with those of relevant previous experimental studies. The numerical simulation results showed a good qualitative agreement with experiments.

• Transactions of Materials Processing
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• v.13 no.6 s.70
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• pp.497-502
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• 2004

The shape of cold rolled steel sheets is defined as the degree of flatness, and the flatter, the better. Because undesirable strip shapes of cold rolled steel sheets can affect not only visible problem but also automatic working process in customer's lines, the requirement of the customers is more and more stringent. So we usually used the tension leveler to make high quality of strip flatness. For the improvement of the quality of strip flatness, this report developed three- dimensional FEM (Finite Element Method) simulation model, and analysis about the strain and stress distribution of strip in the tension leveling process. The numerical study can be summarized as follows. (1) If we pass the edge wave material (steepness: $1.0\%$) that the stress-difference between the strip center and the edge is 5.2kgf through tension leveler. the stress-difference is decreased 0.45kgf and the steepness is improved to $0.29\%$. (2) If the Intermesh is increased from 6mm to 7mm, the steepness is improved from $0.294\%$ to $0.268\%$. (3) If the initial steepness is decreased form $1.0\%$ to $0.75\%$, the final steepness is improved from $0.294\%$ to $0.263\%$. We know that more increased intermesh and lower initial steepness make the final steepness improved.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.245-252
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• 2020

Wave run-up is an important phenomenon that should be considered in ocean structure design. In this study, the wave run-up of a surface-piercing circular cylinder was calculated in the time domain using the three-dimensional linear and fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) techniques. The NWT was based on the boundary element method and the mixed Eulerian and Lagrangian method. Stokes second-order waves were applied to evaluate the effect of the nonlinear waves on wave run-up, and an artificial damping zone was adopted to reduce the amount of reflected and re-reflected waves from the sidewall of the NWT. Parametric studies were conducted to determine the effect of wavelength, wave steepness, and the draft of the cylinder on the wave run-up of the cylinder. The maximum wave run-up value occurred at 0°, which was in front of the cylinder, and the minimum value occurred near the circumferential angle of 135°. As the diffraction parameter increased, the wave run-up increased up to 1.7 times the wave height. Furthermore, the wave run-up was 4% higher than the linear wave when the wave steepness was 1/35. In particular, the crest height of the wave run-up increased by 8%.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.209-218
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• 1995

Nonlinear interaction between directional wave components is theoretically analyzed in deep water. The perturbed solution for an irregular wave is derived accurate up to the third order of the wave steepness and it is shown that the wave characteristics are modulated due to the nonlinear interaction. The convergence rate of the perturbed solution depends on not only wave steepness but also wavelength ratio between wave components. The long-wave component of the perturbed solution converges rapidly. while the short-wave solution converges slowly or diverges. The short wave properties in a broad-band wave spectrum cannot accurately be obtained by the conventional wave-mode method because it fails to properly describe the modulation of short-wave frequency caused by the nonlinear interaction with much longer wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.147-153
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• 2006

In this study, the run-up of water waves on slopes of s-berm breakwaters was investigated by performing a series of hydraulic experiments. The run-up height was analyzed in detail by using the effects of wave steepness and surf similarity parameter. In general, the run-up heights were decreased as the height and the width of berm were increased. However, the variation of run-up height was small for change of wave steepness and surf similarity parameter.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.202-208
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• 2001

Explicit approximation has been developed to estimate the run-up height on S-berm breakwater on the basis of Saville's hypothetical slope method. For the explicit expression of run-up height several relations are developed to represent the ratio of run-up height against breakwater slope with various conditions of water depth and wave steepness. For the verification of explicit approximation the results are compared with Saville's measurement data and simple expression of Delft Hydraulic Laboratory.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.150-158
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• 2011

Present study aims to investigate the influence of relative breakwater width W/L (W=width of breakwater, L=wavelength), wave steepness $H_i/gT^2$ (Hi=incident wave height, T=wave period) and relative wave height d/W (d=water depth) on forces in the moorings of horizontal interlaced multi-layered moored floating pipe breakwater (HIMMFPB) model. Studies were conducted on scaled down physical models having three layers of Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) pipes, wave steepness $H_i/gT^2$ varying from 0.063 to 0.849, relative width W/L varying from 0.4 to 2.65 and relative spacing S/D=2 (S=horizontal centre-to-centre spacing of pipes, D=diameter of pipes). Peak mooring forces were also measured and data collected is analyzed by plotting non-dimensional graphs depicting variation of $f_s/{\gamma}W^2$ ($f_s$=Sea side Mooring force, ${\gamma}$=specific weight of water) & $f_l/{\gamma}W^2$ ($f_l$=Lee side Mooring force) with $H_i/gT^2$ for d/W varying from 0.082 to 0.276 and also variation of $f_s/{\gamma}W^2$ and $f_l/{\gamma}W^2$ with W/L for $H_i$/d varying from 0.06 to 0.400.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.39-52
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• 2000

The triad interactions have been known to be important only for shoaling waves or finite depth wind waves. In deep water, they are insignificant compared with the quadruplet interactions in respect to the evolution of wind waves due to energy transfer among the wave components. However, the triad interactions may be important even for deep water waves because they may closely be related to the wave steepness, which definitely affects wave breaking, drag of air flow over t.'Ie sea, or navigation of ships, especially during the early stage of the development of wind waves. This study reports a series of laboratory experiments, whose data are subjected to bispectral analyses to investigate the triad interactions of deep-water wind waves. It is found that the bicoherence at the spectral peak frequency and the wave steepness are almost directly proportional, indicating that the steep waves with peaked crests and flat troughs are resulted from the triad interactions. Both bicoherence and wave steepness increase with the wave age during the early stage of wave generation and then drop off as the waves grow old. It seems that the energy of the secondary spectral peak developed by the triad interactions during the early stage of wave generation is redistributed to the neighboring frequencies by the quadruplet interactions during the later stage.