• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.84-95
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• 1994

In recent years Jin-Beach and Hyeya River mouth have experienced severe erosion phenomena. The cause of erosion is examined using a 3-dimensional nunumerical sediment transport model. The model is composed of three components : wave model, wave-induced current model and 3-dimensional sediment transport model. In the wave analysis component we consider refraction, diffraction and reflection based on Maruyama and Kajima method. For the wave-induced current model we use depth-integrated continuty equation and momentum equations. For the 3-dimensional sediment transport model we consider bed load and suspended load simutaneously. Model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach and Hyeya River mouth agreed well with experimental results.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.6-11
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• 2014

This paper presents the results of an experimental study of wave run-ups on a semi-submersible offshore structure. A series of model tests with a 1:80 scale ratio were carried out in the two-dimensional wave basin of MOERI/KIOST. The experimental model had two columns and one pontoon. The model was fixed and wave elevations were measured at five points per column. Two different draft (operational & survival) conditions and three wave heights were considered under regular wave conditions. First, the nonlinear characteristics of wave run-ups are discussed by using the time series data. Then, the wave heights are compared with numerical results based on the potential flow model. The comparison shows fairly good correlation between the experiments and computations. Finally, wave run-ups under the operational and survival conditions are suggested.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 1999.10a
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• pp.235-242
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• 1999

Wave which propagate from the offshore cause transformation of diffraction, refraction, and reflection etc. in coming in the coastal by depth change. Especially, Wave strongly show the charcateristics of rancom wave in the coastal zone. Developed wave model until a recent date analysed regular waves with height and period equal to those of the significant wave, In case of Monochromatic wave, it can be analysed fine in the offshore, but differ from in coastal zone. In this study, form of governing equation is parabolic mild slope equation. This model calculated random wave for using frequency spectrum and directional spectrum from input data condition of wave. This model is applied to Vincent shoal and compared with laboratory experimental data. The results agreed well with laboratory data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.511-520
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• 2007

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify the model, numerical simulation of waves in Youngil bay, Pohang is performed and the simulated results show good agreements with measured wave data sets, one station at the mouth of bay and two stations inside the bay. As waves propagate toward the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by bottom friction and wave breaking, and wave direction, initially NE changes normal to the shore due to depth refraction.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.128-135
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• 2020

When high waves and storm surge strike simultaneously, the characteristics of the fluid field change drastically from overtopping according to the wave runup height to overflow through a transition state that combines overtopping and overflows. However, an estimation model or evaluation method has not yet been established because there is not enough engineering data. This study developed a wave overtopping-overflow transition model based on a full-scale experiment involving wave overtopping and overflow transition, which appropriately reproduced the effect of waves or the temporal change in inundation flow. Using this model to perform a calculation for the wave overtopping and overflow transition process under typical circumstances, this study determined the wave runup height and features of the inundation flow under time series changes as an example.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.3 s.29
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• pp.75-85
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• 1998

A finite difference model for predicting time-dependent, wave-induced nearshore current is studied. The model includes wave refraction, wave-current interaction, bottom friction and wind effect. This model iteratively solved the linear the linear set of conservation of both mass and momentum, which were time averaged (over one wave period) and depth integrated, for mean velocities and free surface displacement. Numerical simulations of nearshore current under oblique wave attack, and for wave and wind induced current on a longshore periodic beach are carried out. Longshore velocities tend to zero in some distances outside the breaker line. And the peak velocity is shifted shoreward at the breaker line. The results represent the general characteristics of the nearshore current induced by wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.87-95
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• 2000

Spectral wave models are applied to the area of Kyung-gi bay with two different combinations. One combination assumes a constant tidal elevation over the whole region when applying the wave model to the area. In this case no tidal currents exist in any place. The other combination employs tide model as well as wave model so that tidal condition is defined at every computation time when wave modelling is carried out. Significant wave heights and wave directions are shown for these two cases. With these two different constraints of tidal variation, the results are checked and compared with each other. Both results are found significantly different from each other.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.55-59
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• 2005

The present data concerns the wave height distribution around the Ieodo underwater rocks and it was obtained from a 3D hydraulic model experiment which was performed in 1999 by Konkuk University and Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute. The experiment was separately undertaken for 4 different wave directions (NNW, SE, S, NNW) under which wave heights were measured at every 1m interval within the preset grid area, 16m×18m. It was observed that the wave breaking occurred on the top of the Ieodo model for all wave directions. This data may be effectively used for improving or verifying the performance of numerical wave propagation models in the area with the local breaking wave zones.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.169-179
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• 2017

In this study, we applied the wave generation method by relaxation method to the SWASH model, which is a non - hydrostatic numerical model, for stable and accurate wave generation of linear and nonlinear waves. To validate the relaxation wave generation method, we were simulated various wave, including the linear wave and nonliner wave and compared with analytical solution. As a result, the incident wave was successfully generated and propagated in all cases from Stokes waves to cnoidal wave. Also, we were confirmed that the wave height and the waveform were in good agreement with the analytical solution.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.1 s.74
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• pp.7-17
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• 2007

Based on the Boussinesq wave model, the wave distribution in the Chagui-Do sea area in Jeju was simulated by applying the directional irregular waves at an incident boundary. The time and spatial variations of monthly mean wave height and period were investigated, which aims to provide basic information on optimal sites for wave power generation. The grid size and time interval of the Boussinesq wave model were validated by examining wave distributions around a surface piercing wall, fixed at sea bottom with a constant slope. Except for the summer season, the significant wave height is dominated by wind waves and appears to be relatively high at the north sea of Chagui-Do, which is open to the ocean, while it is remarkably reduced at the rear sea of Chagui-Do because of its blocking effect on incident waves. In the summer, the significant wave height is higher at the south sea, and it is dominated by the swell waves, which is contributed by the strong south-west wind. The magnitude of significant wave height is the largest in the winter and the lowest in the spring. Annual average of the significant wave height is distinctively high at the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast, due to a steep variation of water depth and corresponding wave focusing effect. The seasonal and spatial distribution of the wave period around Chagui-Do sea reveals very similar characteristics to the significant wave height. It is suggested that the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast is the mast promising site for wave power generation.