• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.6-10
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• 2001

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develope as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. It starts from Berkhoff's(1972) mild slope equation and is transformed to time-dependent hyperbolic type equation by using variational principal. Finally the governing equation is shown as a parabolic type equation by splitting method. This wave-current model was applied to the kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.28-36
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• 2009

Many researches have been done to define the physical parameters for the wave generation and transformation over a coastal region. However, most of these have been limited to the application of particular conditions, as they are generally too empirical. To yield more reasonable wave estimation using a spectral wave model, it is important to understand how they work for the wave estimation. This study involved a comprehensive sensitivity test against the spectral resolution and the physical source/sink terms of the spectral wave model using SWAN and TOMAWAC, which have the same physical background with several different empirical/theoretical formulations. The tests were conducted for the East Anglian coast, UK, which is characterized by a complex bathymetry due to several shoals and offshore sandbanks. For the quantitative and qualitative evaluation of the models' performance with different input conditions, the wave elements and spectrums predicted at representative sites the East Anglia coast were compared/analyzed. The spectral resolution had no significant effect on the model results, but the lowest resolution on the frequency and direction induced underestimations of the wave height and period. The bottom friction and depth-induced breaking terms produced relatively high variations in the wave prediction, depending on which formulation was applied. The terms for the quadruplet and whitecapping had little effect on the wave estimation, whereas the triads tended to predict shorter and higher waves by energy transferring to higher frequencies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.185-193
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• 2010

In the present study, wave deformation and wave-induced current were calculated under the regular wave conditions using the Boussinesq model. The model results of the wave deformation showed good agreements with the preceeding laboratory experiments of others. The wave-induced current of the fully developed sea state was calculated. For field application of model, the preceeding field data by others in the real scale of the water area were compared, the numerical result of wave deformation showed a relatively good agreement with the field data. Although the numerical result of wave-induced current was underestimated over the longshore bar developed area, the Boussinesq model is generally suitable to predict the wave-induced current.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.216-224
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• 2011

In This study develops a quasi-three dimensional numerical model of wave driven coastal currents with accounting the effects of the wave-current interaction and the surface rollers. In the wave model, the current effects on wave breaking and energy dissipation are taken into account as well as the wave diffraction effect. The surface roller associated with wave breaking was modeled based on a modification of the equations by Dally and Brown (1995) and Larson and Kraus (2002). Furthermore, the quasi-three dimensional model, which based on Navier-Stokes equations, was modified in association with the surface roller effect, and solved using frictional step method. The model was validated by data sets obtained during experiments on the Large Scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) basin and the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Station (HORS). Then, a model test against detached breakwater was carried out to investigate the performance of the model around coastal structures. Finally, the model was applied to Akasaki port to verify the hydrodynamics around coastal structures. Good agreements between computations and measurements were obtained with regard to the cross-shore variation in waves and currents in nearshore and surf zone.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.157-164
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• 2003

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2022

Recently, as the offshore structures are operated in the deep-sea oil fields, interest in the analysis of relative wave elevation around platforms is increased. In this study, it is examined how the analysis results differ depending on the characteristics of the wave probe when interpreting the relative wave elevation in the model test. First, by conducting the wave probe comparison experiment in the two-dimensional wave tank, it is confirmed how the measured values differ according to the type of wave probe for the same physical phenomenon. Two types of wave probe are selected, the resistance type and the capacitance type, and the causes of the difference in measured values is studied. After that, the model test of the semi-submersible platform is conducted to investigate the relative wave elevation. Relative wave elevation is measured with the wave probes used in the wave probe comparison experiment and analyzed to estimate the asymmetric factor and the extreme upwell. The results between the two types of wave probes are compared, and qualitative study for the cause of the difference is conducted by photographing the physical phenomenon using a high-speed camera. Through the above study, it is confirmed that the capacitance type wave probe shows a larger measured value than the resistance type under the breaking-wave condition, and the same results are obtained for the asymmetric factor and the extreme upwell. These results is thought to be due to the difference in the measurement principle between wave probes, which is whether or not they measured water bubbles. This implies that the model test should be conducted using appropriate wave probes by considering the physical phenomenon to be analyzed.

• Geomechanics and Engineering
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• v.5 no.6
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• pp.595-611
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• 2013

This paper presents a three-dimensional (3D) integrated numerical model where the wave-induced pore pressures in a porous seabed around breakwater heads were investigated. Unlike previous research, the Navier-Stokes equation is solved with internal wave generation for the flow model, while Biot's dynamic seabed behaviour is considered in the seabed model. With the present model, a parametric study was conducted to examine the effects of wave and soil characteristics and breakwater configuration on the wave-induced pore pressure around breakwater heads. Based on numerical examples, it was found that the wave-induced pore pressures at breakwater heads are greater than that beneath a breakwater. The wave-induced seabed response around breakwater heads become more important with: (i) a longer wave period; (ii) a seabed with higher permeability and degree of saturation; and (iii) larger angle between the incident waves and breakwater. Furthermore, the relative difference of wave-induced pore pressure between fully-dynamic and quasi-static solutions are larger at breakwater heads than that beneath a breakwater.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.13-19
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• 2008

Abnormally large swells that appeared on the coast of the East Sea in October in 2005 and 2006 were simulated using SWAN model to examine the accuracy of the model for future forecasting Seawind data calculated based on the weather chart ant bottom topography were used for input data, and the model was operated more than 20 days before the observed swells to avoid the problems from the cold start of the model. The comparisons with observed wind and wave data were unsatisfactory and neededmore improvement in terms of swell component in the wave model as well as the quality of seawind data. The satellite wind and wave data can be good candidates for future comparison of the wave model results in the East Sea.

• The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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• v.26 no.2E
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• pp.50-55
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• 2007

SBN (Structure-Borne Noise) reduction in resiliently mounted machineries are predicted by using mass-spring model and wave model. In mass-spring model, mount is modeled as a spring, while in wave model, mount is considered as an equivalent elastic rod for taking account into longitudinal wave propagation. The predictions for SBN reduction through mounts are compared to the measurements for four different pumps. It is found that the mass-spring model is valid only in low frequency range below few hundred Hz, while for high frequency ranges longitudinal wave propagation in the mount must be considered to explain the measurements. It is also shown that impedance of the floor slightly affects low frequency behaviour in mass-spring and wave model below 50 Hz - 80 Hz, so that in engineering practice the effect of floor impedance may be neglected in computing mount performance.

• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• 2003.11a
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• pp.438-440
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• 2003

This study is introducing a new approach of ATInSAR hologram for modeling wave refraction spectra pattern. TOPSAR data with L$_{-HH}$ and C-vv bands utilized spatial variation of wave refraction. Based on the phase information in along track interferometry, and ATInSAR hologram the quantitative information such swell wave height and spectra energy have been modeled. The phase information in ATInSAR hologram images can be transferred to wave refraction The ATInSAR hologram can be used to investigate the wave refraction pattern along the coastal waters. The fringe information pattern was shown to be useful in modeling wave refaction spectra varaition. The hologram interferometry wave refraction model consists of two sub-models. The purpose of first sub-model is to determine the swell wave height by using ATInSAR. Second sub-model aims to generate the holographic interferometry from the information of two wave spectra which detected by ATInSAR technique. The azimuth cut-off variations along the fringe patterns will be estimated. As azimuth cut-off contains the wave height information which could be used the significant wave height variation in convergence and divergence zone.