• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer between wave components, during the directional wave breakings, are investigated. Directional incipient and plunging breakers were generated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location, based on a constant wave amplitude and a constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The time series of surface wave elevation was measured at 9 different locations around the wave focusing point, using a wave gauge array. In order to examine the variation of the directional spreading function, the horizontal velocity of fluid motion was also measured. By comparing energy spectrums, before and after the breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer, caused by wave breaking, are investigated. Their dependencies on directionality, as well as frequency, are analyzed. The breakings significantly dissipate wave energy, through energy transfer, in the upper region of the peak-frequency band, while enhancing wave energy in the low-frequency band.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.207-213
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• 2003

본 연구는 불규칙파동장에 설치된 불투과잠제를 대상으로 잠제의 배후에서 파랑에너지의 변화특성을 고찰한다. 이를 위해 VOF법에 기초한 2차원수치파동수로를 이용하였다. VOF법은 쇄파를 포함한 자유수면의 수치 모의가 가능한 가장 효과적인 방법이다. 잠제배후에서 주파수스펙트럼의 해석결과에 의하면 쇄파는 잠제의 파랑제어능에 중요한 역할을 하고 있음을 확인하였다. 잠제의 천단상에서 쇄파가 발생하는 경우에 일렬잠제는 파에너지가 단주기측으로 이동하고 이열잠제의 경우는 스펙트럼의 피크가 뚜렷하지 않고 비슷한 크기의 에너지가 전 주파수대에 걸쳐 분포됨을 확인하였다.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.614-624
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• 2013

The resonance power buoy is a convincing tool that can increase the extraction efficiency of wave energy. The buoy needs a corresponding draft, to move in resonance with waves within the peak frequency band where wave energy is concentrated. However, it must still be clarified if the buoy acts as an effective displacement amplifier, when there is insufficient water depth. In this study, the vertical displacement of a circular cylinder-type buoy was calculated, with the spectrum data observed in a real shallow sea as the external wave force, and with the corresponding draft, according to the mode frequency of normal waves. Such numerical investigation result, without considering Power Take-Off (PTO) damping, confirmed that the area of the heave responses spectrum can be amplified by up to about tenfold, compared with the wave energy spectrum, if the draft corresponds to the peak frequency, even with insufficient water depth. Moreover, the amplification factor of the buoy varied, according to the seasonal changes in the wave spectra.

• 한국수산과학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.41-47
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• 1989

Using computer simulated irregular waves, variations of ocean wave statistics according to sea state are analyzed, and the reasonable conditions that transform the energy spectrum to individual wave statistics are discussed. Ocean wave statistics varying with sea state are found to respond linearly to the spectral peakedness parameter $Q_p$ and spectrum moments $m_n$ (n = 0, 1, 2${\cdots}{\cdots}\;\infty$ ). It is clarified that the 2nd-order spectrum moment is a reasonable parameter which represents the wave statistics including wave periods, and that the spectrum analysis should be carried out under the conditions of minimum data length of 10 times of peak period $T_p$ with time lag of $7T_p$ to satisfy the stable condition of wave statistics.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2007

A semi-submersible drilling rig is regarded as one of the typical offshore structures operated in the field with moderate environments such as the Gulf of Mexico, Brazil, and West Africa. Its typical roll and pitch natural periods are around 30 seconds, which avoids prevailing regions of the wave energy spectrum, and their responses in waves are quite acceptable for common operation conditions. But large roll and pitch motions can be induced by wave difference frequency energy spectrum if the metacentric heights of a semi-submersible decrease to small values in some loading conditions, and it is because the roll and pitch natural periods increase and approach to the region where the spectral density of the low frequency wave drift moment has significant value. This paper describes the low frequency roll motion of a semi-submersible that are excited by the wave 2nd order difference frequency energy by a series of model experiments. From the model tests with several different initial metacentric heights (GM), it was observed that a semi-submersible can experience large roll motion due to the wave group spectrum.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.1056-1063
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• 2015

Waves can be expressed in terms of a spectrum; that is, the energy density distribution of a representative wave can be determined using statistical analysis. The JONSWAP, PM and BM spectra have been widely used for the specific target wave data set during storms. In this case, the extracted wave data are usually discontinuous and independent and cover a very short period of the total data-recording period. Previous studies on the continuous wave spectrum have focused on wave deformation in shallow water conditions and cannot be generalized for deep water conditions. In this study, the Generalized Extreme Value (GEV) function is proposed as a more-optimal function for the fitting of the continuous wave spectral shape based on long-term monitored point wave data in deep waters. The GEV function was found to be able to accurately reproduce the wave spectral shape, except for discontinuous waves of greater than 4 m in height.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.739-749
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• 2015

A new conceptual dual-buoy Wave Energy Converter (WEC) for the enhancement of energy extraction efficiency is suggested. Based on actual wave data, the design process for the suggested WEC is conducted in such a way as to ensure that it is suitable in real sea. Actual wave data measured in Korea's East Sea (position: $36.404N^{\circ}$ and $129.274E^{\circ}$) from May 1, 2002 to March 29, 2005 were used as the input wave spectrum for the performance estimation of the dual-buoy WEC. The suggested WEC, a point absorber type, consists of two concentric floating circular cylinders (an inner and a hollow outer buoy). Multiple resonant frequencies in proposed WEC affect the Power Ttake-off (PTO) performance of the WEC. Based on the numerical results, several design strategies are proposed to further enhance the extraction efficiency, including intentional mismatching among the heave natural frequencies of dual buoys, the natural frequency of the internal fluid, and the peak frequency of the input wave spectrum.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.111-121
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• 1997

The spectral energy balance model is composed and the nonlinear interaction is approximated by the discrete interaction parameterization as in WAM model. The numerical results of durational limited growth test agree very well with those of the exact model, EXACT-NL. The response of a wave spectrum to a change in wind direction is investigated numerically for a sequence of direction changes 30$^{\circ}$ , 45$^{\circ}$ , 60$^{\circ}$ , 90$^{\circ}$ . The high frequency components relax more repidly to the new wind direction than the low frequency components and the relaxation process also depends on the wave age. For wind direction changes less than 60$^{\circ}$ , the coupling by nonlinear interaction is so strong that the secondary peak in input source distribution is counteracted by the negative lobe of the nonlinear interaction. For wind direction changes grater than 60$^{\circ}$ , a second independent wind-sea spectrum is generated in the new wind direction, while the old spectrum gradually decays as swell.

• 한국항해항만학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국항해항만학회 2019년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.51-52
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• 2019

종래에는 해양 및 해안 구조물에 작용하는 주된 외력요소인 파도는 안전성의 측면에 중점하여 다뤄져왔다. 최근 해양 에너지의 개발 및 해양 레저스포츠 등의 다변화된 해양 활동의 수요 증가에 대응하기 위해 특정 해역의 파도의 특징을 정의하기 위한 다양한 연구가 수행되고 있다. 파도의 특징은 장소에 따라 특수하지만, 선행 연구들에서 제안된 활용가능한 스펙트럼 모델은 제한적이다.

• 센서학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.454-461
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• 2008

This embedded module measures significant wave height and zero crossing periods through spectral energy from a record of time series heave motion. An ARM7TDMI core microcontroller serves as the main control unit which performs the appropriate control and signal conditioning. Monitored wave characteristic is transmitted with satellite modem. Mathematical equations on signal conditioning and experiments procedures are documented in this paper.