• Title/Summary/Keyword: Wave Refraction and Shoaling

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항만정온도 해석을 위한 수치모형적용과 상호비교분석

  • Lee, Dong-Hyeon;Kim, Gang-Min;Choe, Se-Ho;Lee, Jung-U
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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    • 2014.06a
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    • pp.255-257
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    • 2014
  • The harbor tranquility is indicating the level of calmness in the mooring basin of harbor. It relates keenly to berthing/unberthing and cargo handling works but also it is an important indicator to get the minimum water area as the safe refuge. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze in complex the variation of wave height and direction caused by wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling and reflection from the incident waves from outside the harbor. In order to check the calmness inside a harbor, the numerical models are being used currently need fundamental reviews according to the difference of results which depend on their respective features. In this study, hence, it was introduced the validity of numerical models by comparing the computational results for Hupo harbor.

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Wave Deformation Model in Orthogonal Curvilinear Coordinate System around the Coastal Structure (파향선 좌표계에 의한 해암구조물 주변에서의 파랑변형 모형)

  • 이동수;이종섭;장선덕
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.22-30
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    • 1989
  • Wave propagation is changed by the effect of shoaling, current-depth refraction and shelter-ing etc. To solve these problems. numerous models have been developed. In the present study, a coordinate system is proposed based on the wave ray equation with the wave number equation including diffraction effects . The governing equation for the study was derived from the mild slope wave equation in non-steady state, including current effects (Kirby, 1986a) and trans-formed into an orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system on the basis of the wave ray equation. To obtain a numerical solution, an explicit finite difference scheme was used, and solved by the relaxation method. This model was tested for various cases: Firstly a submersed circular shoal and a constant unit depth. Secondly a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope, and finally a breakwater harbour with obliquely incident waves on a slope. The model was found to simulate the experimental results and other theoretical results in wave height and wave angle fairy well, and the applicability of the model around an arbitrary shaped coastal structure was also verified. To demonstrate the general usefullness of the present approach , the model is to be applied to a field situation with a complex bed topography.

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Variation of Harbor Response due to Construction of A New Port in Youngil Bay (영일만 신항 건설에 따른 항만 정온도의 변화)

  • Kim, Ji-Yeon;Lee, Joong-Woo;Lee, Hak-Seung;Yang, Sang-Yong
    • Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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    • v.28 no.5
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    • pp.421-428
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    • 2004
  • Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

Variation of Harbor Response due to Construction of A New Port in Youngil Bay (영일만 신항 건설에 따른 항만 정온도의 변화)

  • Lee, Hoon;Lee, Hak-Seung;Yang, Sang-Yong;Lee, Joong-Woo
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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    • 2004.04a
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    • pp.179-186
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    • 2004
  • Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the developemnt could be easily neglected.

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Computation of Wave Height Distribution Inside a Harbor Using Time-Dependent Mild-Slope Equation (시간의존 완경사방정식을 이용한 항내 파고분포 계산)

  • 곽문수;홍길표;편종근
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.18-27
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    • 1990
  • The calmness inside a harbor plays an important role in the appropriate disposition of har-bor structures. However, it is not easy to get the accurate computational results because they are affected by many factors concerning with the wave transformation. Successful solution also depends on determining the boundary values appropriately. This paper presents the numerical model which is able to calculate wave heights inside a harbor It is based upon the time-dependent mild-slope equation involving wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling effect and reflection. In particular, the arbitrary reflectivity is used at the boundary in order to simulate the real harbor reflection condition. This numerical model is applied for Hupo-Harbor and its validities are investgated by comparing with experimental values from the hydraulic model test as well as computational results from Taka-yama's numerical model (1981). It is shown that the model results are in good agreement with results from hydraulic model and Takayama's.

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Shallow Water Wave Hindcasting by the Combination of MASCON and SWAN Models (지형을 고려한 해상풍 모델(MASCON)과 SWAN 모델의 결합에 의한 천해파랑 산정)

  • Kim, Ji-Min;Kim, Chang-Hoon;Kim, Do-Sam;Hur, Dong-Soo
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.19 no.1
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    • pp.57-65
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    • 2007
  • Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

Numerical Prediction of Ship Induced Wave and its Propagation Using Nonlinear Dispersive Wave Model (비선형분산파랑모형을 이용한 항주파의 발생과 전파에 관한 수치예측모형 개발)

  • Shin, Seung-Ho;Jeong, Dae-Deug
    • Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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    • v.27 no.5
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    • pp.527-537
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    • 2003
  • The characteristics of ship induced waves caused by navigation become widely different from both ship's speed and water depth condition. The ship induced waves specially generated in coastwise routes frequently give rise to call unforeseen danger for swimmers and small boats as well as shoreline erosion or sea wall destruction in coastal zones. The main concern of ship induced wave study until now is either how to reduce ship resistance or how to manoeuvre the ship safely under a constant water depth in the view point of shipbuilding engineers. Moreover, due to the trends for appearance of the high speed ships at the shallow coastal water, we are confronted with the danger of damages from those ship induced waves. Therefore, it is necessary to examine the development of ship induced waves and the influence of their deformation effects according to its propagation ray. In present study, in order to predict the development of the ship induced waves and their propagation under the conditions of complicate and variable shallow water depth with varying ship's speed, we constructed a computer model using Boussinesq equation with a fixed coordinate system and verified the model results by comparison with experimental results. Additionally, the model was applied under the variable water depth based on actual passage and we then confirmed the importance of the variable water depth consideration.

Effects on the Jeju Island of Tsunamis Caused by Triple Interlocked Tokai, Tonankai, Nankai Earthquakes in Pacific Coast of Japan (일본 태평양 연안의 Tokai, Tonankai 및 Nankai의 3연동지진에 의한 지진해일이 제주도 연안에 미치는 영향)

  • Lee, Kwang-Ho;Kim, Min-Ji;Kawasaki, Koji;Cho, Sung;Kim, Do-Sam
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.295-304
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    • 2012
  • This study proposed a two-dimensional horizontal numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water wave equations to simulate tsunami propagation and coastal inundation. We numerically investigated the possible impacts of tsunami caused by the triple interlocked Tokai, Tonankai and Nankai Earthquakes on the Jeju coastal areas, using the proposed model. The simultaneous Tokai, Tonankai and Nankai Earthquakes were created a virtual tsunami model of an M9.0 earthquake. In numerical analysis, a grid nesting method for the local grid refinement in shallow coastal regions was employed to sufficiently reproduce the shoaling effects. The numerical model was carefully validated through comparisons with the data collected during the tsunami events by 2011 East Japan Earthquake and 1983 central East Sea Earthquake (Nihonkai Chubu Earthquake). Tsunami propagation triggered by the combined Tokai, Tonanakai and Nankai, Earthquakes was simulated for 10 hours to sufficiently consider the effects of tsunami in the coastal areas of Jeju Island. The numerical results revealed that water level fluctuation in tsunami propagation is greatly influenced by water-depth change, refraction, diffraction and reflection. In addition, the maximum tsunami height numerically estimated in the coastal areas of Jeju Island was about 1.6 m at Sagye port.