• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.255-265
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• 2014

This study developed and proposed a pattern that can fit the body and compensate for the defects of the body type by applying shoulder princess line to the torso pattern and including formative characteristics of each object on the study of body shape's change in 40-59 year old middle aged women. The results of this study are as follows; First, according to the analysis of 'Size Korea 2010' such as average, standard deviation, minimum value, and maximum value of 48 items, women showed increase in most of the items except height as they became aged. Second, factor analysis was made to understand the shape component factors of middle aged women and to use them for the body type classification. Third, cluster analysis was made according to the shape of front and sides which should be considered in pattern production based on the factor analysis results, and the body type with the measurement values most similar to the average of direct measurement of 'Size Korea 2010' was set as standard. Fourth, in designing torso patterns through the $1^{st}$ and the $2^{nd}$ wearing experiments according to the body type, body shapes such as Chest Circumference, Waist Circumference, Hip Circumference, and Waist Back Length were considered in pattern design, goodness-of-fit was enhanced with difference in margin according to body type and different margins in front and back, and fitting satisfaction was improved by applying princess line.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.685-694
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• 2016

This study investigates the problems of fitness and motion suitability for Korean male military winter jackets (inner and outer) and provides data for new pattern development. We analyzed fitness and motion suitability by a questionnaire survey with 140 Korean male soldiers and a wearing evaluation with 7 subjects of central army male size. A survey of male soldiers indicated that the fitness and motion suitability satisfaction was over 3.0 (Likert scale) for both inner and outer jackets. There were opinions that the sleeve length was short for the inner jacket and the waist girth and hem girth was slightly large for the outer jacket. In the wearing evaluation results with subjects of central army male size, fitness of total length, sleeve length and collar height showed a score lower than 3.0 for the inner jacket and collar height on the outer jacket. The motion suitability result showed a low score (1.0-2.0) in an arm raising motion for the inner jacket and 2.0-3.0 at neck motion in the outer jacket. In conclusion, there is more dissatisfaction in inner jackets than outer jackets. For the inner jacket, sleeve is short, sleeve hem is narrow, collar height is a little high and the sleeve creeps up during arm motion. The waist girth and hem girth was slightly large and collar height was a little high for the outer jacket.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.99-106
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• 2006

With the growing interest in pet dogs and pet dog's wear I used this study to compare and analyze the pattern used by each supplier and developed a new pattern for pet dogs' wear which is appropriate for pet dogs' body lines and movement. Test subjects were 91 pet dogs in Busan and after comparing 3 patterns from different suppliers, I developed the pattern reflecting pet dogs' body shapes and movement. Results are as follows; 1) As a result of analyzing measurements, it was found that pet dogs motion in walking on four feet, is different from that of people on two feet. For center measurements, their waist to bust length is longer than their waist to back length. The result of analysis shows that bust circumference impacts most other measurement results and it seems that better results are achieved if the bust line is taken into consideration when measuring bust back length, bust front length, neck base circumference, front leg arc, the length between lateral shoulder etc. 2) As a result of comparing suppliers' patterns, it was discovered that each supplier has different sizes for the same patterns and those sizes are not standardized across the board. Even if the same size of pattern was actually used in the production of pet dogs' wear by the individual companies, there were many variations in size for each item. 3) To develop a more standard pattern of pet dogs' wear, I collected and analyzed 3 patterns from each supplier and designed a new pattern, revising it three times. After test-wearing of the experimental pattern and the studied patterns, and comparing and analyzing the results, the studied pattern had similarly better estimation than the experimental one.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.63-81
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• 2013

A Study using compare and analyze about differences among three patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of estimation about total appearance, the pattern of Bunka is best of all pattern about total fitting and silhouette of front and back side. The pattern of armstrong and on&on stand low in estimation. As the total fitting, the pattern of Bunka is 4.40, the pattern of Armstrong is 2.60 and the pattern of On&on is 1.60. The result show better pattern of Bunka than pattern of Armstrong and On&on. When we examine about space between body and cloth, the pattern of Bunka is best. The pattern of Armstrong don't have problems about back side but front side have some problem of getting loose. Because it only have a waist dart so dart size is too big. The pattern of On&on have so much space because it don't have a waist dart. On the amount of air gap, the pattern of Bunka squash up body so it have the amount of air gap 0.08 at bust circumference and underbust circumference. Next is the pattern of Armstrong, amount of air gap is 0.14 at bust circumference and 0.23 at underbust circumference. The pattern of On&on's amount of air gap is 0.30 at bust circumference and 0.37 at underbust circumference. So the pattern of Bunka is bodice block of the best closing adhesion and the On&on is a loose-fitting pattern.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.491-503
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a slim-fit jeans pattern that is suitable for the lower body of upper grade elementary school girls, who are beginning to show gender differences in body shape. Four age groups of two years each were considered for girls 7 to 14 years old. The mean and standard deviation of body measurements were calculated for each age group to analyze body shape variation, and hence the body characteristics of upper grade elementary school girls were identified. The high-frequency measurements of stature-waist circumference and waist circumference-hip circumference combinations were analyzed. In order to determine the size of each part of the jeans pattern and derive the drafting formula, the pattern sizes of brand A jeans, which had received a high score in the evaluation for ready-to-wear jeans(Kim & Lee, 2020), were used as the base criteria. In addition, the body sizes observed and calculated in the study were applied. Additionally, the requirements for better fit of ready-to-wear jeans, found in the survey on jeans wearing conditions and size dissatisfaction(Kim & Lee, 2019), were taken into consideration. Based on this research, a model set of jeans was prepared with the pattern developed and its fit evaluation was conducted. Thus, a slim-fit jeans pattern suitable for the lower body of upper grade elementary school girls was finalized. The pattern proposed in this study has excellent appearance and motion functionality, and is expected to contribute to reduce the fit dissatisfaction.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.471-487
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to analyze changes to body measurements and silhouettes after wearing an early 19th century women's corset. Two types of corsets were tested. Changes in body size and silhouette were compared based on the levels of tightening strength of the corset. The tightening strength was adjusted in 4 steps by making the length of back fastening string 10-40 cm shorter than the standard. The silhouette was compared with the front silhouette and the side silhouette. The results were as follows. After wearing the experimental 19th century corsets, the chest circumference and front interscye length increased. However, the chest circumference did not increase proportionally to the tightening strength. The underbust circumference, waist circumference, and back interscye length also decreased. The waist width was decreased to create a slim front silhouette. The change in the body silhouette differed depending on the style of the experimental corset. The experimental corset made with the six-piece torso pattern changed the posture so that the shoulders were pulled back and the chest was pushed forward. The experimental corset with the side bodice pattern resulted in the subject's shoulders reclining backward and the chest and abdomen extending forward. The results of this study show that women's body sizes and silhouettes could be changed by wearing the early 19th century corsets, but the changes in body size and silhouette vary depending on the wearer's individual body type or corset style.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.892-907
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.33-46
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to present basic data for the standardization of the sizing system for children's wear by investigating the current production and sizing system of Korean children's wear brands. The result of conducting a survey of 20 brands show the following: first, regarding the age bracket of Korean children's wear, it ranged from 3~15 years old. Most of the brands divided up the sizes into 4 or 5 different groups. Second, the utilization of a bodice basic pattern was low during the manufacturing of a pattern, and the basic pattern had been used for the item. Third, the designation of garment sizes were done using height or height-chest measurement or height-waist measurement. Fourth, the brands used the smallest size as the basic size in most cases. Most of the brands had similar deviations for any grading deviations. In conclusion, it appears necessary to restructure the unity of size designation and the sizing system in order to establish the sizing system of children's wear, which features diverse age brackets and various body types.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.128-136
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• 2002

This study was initiated to study suitability of the apparel sizing systems that utilized in women's ready-to-wear market. To achieve this, the researchers surveyed 383 women from the ages of 18 through 59. The result of this study are followed. 1) The targeted age of the apparel brand does not always correspond with the purchaser's age. The subjects tend to prefer the brands targeting younger women than their age. The women who prefer the brand targeting younger women than their age were less satisfied with the jacket size available in Korean apparel market. They also took into consideration their body size. 2) The subjects who prefer the brands aimed for younger women were dissatisfied with fit at waist and hips. 3) The result of this study also shows that the more sizes are needed for short and tall women. The subjects pointed out that hips of the pants gave worst fit. 4) KS standard size designation system which listed body measurements bust-hips stature was not well known to the consumers.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.49-63
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to study real body size and ideal body shape by considering the degree of satisfaction of body part and understanding body size by the degree of leanness/obesity. The subjects in this study were 420 males from 18 to 25 years old. Body measurements and surveys were taken and analyzed by mean, standard variation, correlation analysis, regression analysis, crosstabulation analysis, cluster analysis, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan's Test. The results of analyses indicate that the subjects tended to be satisfied with thick chest and upper limbs, wide shoulder width, and preferred to be tall and have big hands and feet. By cluster analysis of 19 variables, the subjects were divided into 4 groups, each consisting 41, 138, 134, and 47 males. Because the 19 variables were body measurements transformed to eliminate the body size factor, this classification was considered to express how lean or how obese a human body appears. The results of one way ANOVA and Duncan's Test indicate that, according to the degree of leanness/obesity from Group I (lean tendency) to Group IV(obese tendency), characteristics of the body shape changed as follows; height became lower, limbs became shorter, trunk and limbs became thicker and weight became heavier. Also it showed that Group IV were most satisfied with chest girth, upper limb girth and shoulder width and Group I with height, hip girth and waist girth.