• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.53-75
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• 1998

The kind, the structure, and the motif of the Chosun dynasty's fabrics found mainfy within the Buddhist statues were studied. The total of 62 pieces of fabrice can be classified chronologically as follows ; 27 pieces in the year of 1431, 20 pieces of 1550, 9 pieces of 1664, and 6 pieces of 1735. These 62 fabrics also categorized by the weaving method as follows; 27 plain weaved, 17 twill weaved, 10 pieces of satine weaved, 7 pieces of Leno weaved, and 1 piece of double weaved fabrics. Most of the studied fabrics were silk, the rest were 2 pieces of yam and 1 piece of cotton, Kyun, Chu, and Cho were the plain weaved silk as Nung and Ki were the twill weaved silk, Satine weaved silk was called as Dan and double weaved silk was called Chikum in the Chosun dynasty. 1. The antique fabrics were composed of mainly silk. This is believed due to the utmost devotion to the buddhist statue as an object of worship. 2. In the fabric's structural point of view, th ecrossed 4-ply threads of warp yarn which is one of Leno weaved can be observed fre-quently in the period of Korea dynasty's fabrics. But it started to disappear in the beginning of Chosun dynasty, since only one piece of Ra could be found in the 1431's fabrics. Keum, one of the double weaved structure is assumed to be extinct from the Korea dynasty. Satin weaved fabrics started to be woven from the latter period of Korea dynasty and was very popular in Chosun dynasty. 3. The widths of fabrics in the Chosun dynasty gradually decreased compared with those of Korea dynasty.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.14-22
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• 2007

This study is about the excavated costume representing fundamental "Conservation and Restoration". It's not a report of a specific case, but it is a guideline that contains the costume and textile of museum collection. It is not research based on experiments; however, this paper is basically consists of various reported-documents. Followings are the conclusions of this study 1. These are the factors that we have to know to prevent the causes of fabric's degradation. -Light, -Humidity and temperature, -Microscopic organism, -Insect and rodent animal, -Air pollution, -Ph, -Handling 2. Basic principles of conservation and restoration follows are: -Select the Reversible method, -Represent the easily distinguishable repaired place, -Should be acted by an expert or people with experience, -Before the restoration, accurate and specified records should be completed, -Procedure, treatment method, and materials used should be recorded prior to restoration, -Should be cared minimally, -Be cautious when using the conservation materials, -When caring, make sure nothing is against the principle of aesthetic, historic, and form of preservation 3. The types of restoration are type of straight or curve, type of hole, type of without warp or weft, type of special part damage something like sleeve, collar, type of form that is severely damaged, and type of separated pieces. 4. The method of restoration is sewing, stitching, and the combination of sewing and stitching. 5. The restoration seams are welt seam, plain seam, flat felled seam, french seam etc. And there are kinds of used-sewing, such as, broad stitching, backstitch, half backstitch, basking, hemming, saddle stitching etc.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.53-62
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate mechanical and comfort performances of the material for the improved working uniform for a volunteer fire brigade member, to get basic data for its evaluation and to help its material and design development. The results were as follows; The material of the newly developed working uniform was thinner and lighter than the material of the current used working uniform. It had better breathability, air permeability and heat transmission rate than the current one. It also had superior anti-flammability In all mechanical properties(tensile, bending, shearing, compression and surface properties), it showed better performances than the current one. It elongated and bended easier and more in both warp and weft directions. The elastic recovery and shape stability after elongation were also higher. The recovery and resistance to shearing and the resiliency and recovery after compression were also better than the current one. It was more flexible, softer and smoother in primary hand value, and was more suitable for the material for winter suit which needs softness and fullness in total hand value. The material of the improved working uniform showed lower thermal insulation value and higher evaporative resistance value compared to the material of the currently used working uniform from the sweating thermal manikin test. It was shown that the physical performances and the hand value of the textile material used in the newly developed working uniform for a volunteer fiber brigade member was improved compared to the one used in the currently used working uniform.

• 한국음향학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.299-307
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• 2003

화자독립 음성인식기에서 화자사이의 성도 길이의 영향을 최소화시켜 인식 성능을 개선하는 화자 정규화에 대한 많은 연구가 있어 왔다. 본 연구에서는 벡터양자화기를 이용하여 화자 검증이 가능하다는 사실에 착안하여 벡터 양자화기를 이용한 비교적 간단한 선형 워핑 화자정규화방법을 제안한다. 제안하는 방법에서는 먼저 정규화에 이용될 최적의 코드북을 생성한 다음, 이 코드 북을 이용하여 화자의 선형 워핑계수를 추출하고 추출된 워핑계수는 멜 켑스트럼 추출시에 사용되는 멜스케일 필터뱅크를 워핑하기 위해 이용된다. 본고에서 제안한 워핑계수 추출 및 적용 방법의 성능을 확인하기 위해 이산 HMM을 이용한 13가지의 단음절 한글 숫자음 인식기를 이용하여 인식실험을 수행하였으며, 실험 결과 약 29%의 오인식률 감소를 보여 제안하는 화자 정규화방법이 다른 라인서치 워핑계수추출 방법보다 간단한 동시에 효용가치가 있음을 확인하였다.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.39-47
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• 2005

본 논문에서는 전송되는 메시지의 무결성과 출처 인증을 위해 광범위하게 사용되는 메시지 인증 코드 (Message Authentication Code :MAC) 알고리즘을 제안하고 안전성을 분석한다. 제안된 MAC 알고리즘은 기본 블록 암호로 64-비트 블록과 56-비트 키를 가진 64비트 블록 암호 알고리즘을 이용하여 MAC 값의 길이를 64-비트와 32-비트를 사용하였을 경우의 안전성을 비교한다. 또한, 128-비트 블록과 128-비트 키를 가진 128비트 블록 암호 알고리즘을 이용하여, MAC 값의 길이를 128비트와 64-비트를 사용하였을 경우의 안전성을 비교한다 그래서 메시지의 길이와 MAC값의 길이에 따른 위장 공격의 안전성을 분석한다.

• PNF and Movement
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.259-266
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• 2017

Purpose: This study aimed to compare muscle activities in the right leg during squatting on an angle-adjustable inclined wooden plate at three different angles. Methods: The subjects were 19 healthy adult men and women. An angle-adjustable inclined wooden plate was used for the experiment, and the subjects performed squatting at three adjusted angles of $0^{\circ}$ ankle angle, $10^{\circ}$ ankle flexion, and $10^{\circ}$ plantar flexion. Squatting was randomly performed without a sequence. The knee angle was set at $45^{\circ}$, and a goniometer was used to measure the angles accurately. Electromyography was employed to measure and compare muscle activity in the right leg in each condition. The measured data were converted to root mean square values to calculate the muscle activities. Results: This study showed no statistically significant difference at a $0^{\circ}$ ankle angle, but a statistically significant difference was found in the vastus medialis at $10^{\circ}$ of ankle flexion. Moreover, statistically significant differences were observed in the vastus medialis and lateralis at $10^{\circ}$ of plantar flexion. Conclusion: This study showed a statistically significant difference in the vastus medialis at $10^{\circ}$ of ankle flexion and statistically significant differences in the vastus medialis and lateralis at $10^{\circ}$ of plantar flexion. Therefore, it may be effective to perform squatting at $10^{\circ}$ of ankle flexion when intending to selectively strengthen the vastus medialis and at $10^{\circ}$ of plantar flexion when intending to strengthen both the vastus medialis and lateralis.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.173-182
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• 2001

The physical properties and biodegradability of cellulose fabrics, such as cotton and rayon, are expected to vary with textile care. In this study cotton and rayon fabrics were washed repeatedly with detergents, bleaches, or softeners. The changes of physical properties were investigated by measuring retention of breaking strength, shrinkage, handle, and the fiber surface was observed by SEM. The biodegradability of fabrics was also estimated by soil burial test. The results were as follows. Cotton fabrics laundered repeatedly by detergents and bleaches lost virtually no strength. The breaking strength of the rayon fabrics decreased by about 17%∼25% after repeated launderings. Shrinkage in weft direction was much larger than that in warp direction. Bending rigidities of both fabrics decreased remarkably within 10 wash cycles. Shear rigidity in cotton fabrics increased continuously with repeated washing cycles, however, that in rayon fabrics did not show any change as washing went on. Friction coefficient increased in both fabrics after 10 wash cycles, and this is thought to be attributed to the wrinkle, interlocking of hairs, surface damage resulted from repeated washings. In cotton fabrics made of staple yarns, short hairs on the yarn surface entangled together with repeated launderings. This resulted in the continuous increase in % shrinkage, shear rigidity, friction coefficient. Rayon fabrics made of filament yarns, however, did not show this phenomenon. Softener treated fabrics showed the lowest values in bending rigidity, shear rigidity and friction coefficient because the cationic surfactants adsorbed on the fiber surface behaved like lubricants. The biodegradability of fabrics was noticeably affected by the composition of washing solutions. The fabrics washed with detergents and bleaches were decomposed faster than those washed with the others were and the cotton fabrics washed with detergents and softeners hardly degraded. The fabrics soiled with milk were decomposed almost completely and those soiled with Palmitic acid did not degrade greatly.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.9-18
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• 1999

In order to establish fundamental data for the betterment of Polyester microfiber fabric handle, a study by using fixed warp of ITY yarn samples with P/F, DTY, and ITY weft yarns was performed. For this purpose the samples of total 27 kinds were prepared. That is, each sample yarn was twisted in three ways and for each twisted yarn the fabric structures were modified in three ways, plain, twill, and satin. The examination was done by focusing on the point of the change of handles and the characteristics of the mechanical properties of the samples with the change of yarn and the fabric structure. The handles and the mechanical properties were examined with the KES-F system suggested by Kawabata. The results were as follows : 1. WT and MIU increased with increasing the twist. By comparing WT and MIU by yarn, DTY was higher than P/F. It appeared that twill and satin were higher than plain. 2. The bending rigidity change in DTY with increasing the twist was not significant, however in P/F it appeared apparently decreased with increasing the tlvist. Also, it appeared that when using P/F as weft the bending rigidity was higher than when using DTY and the twill structure appeared higher than the satin structure. 3. In shear force the increasing rates of plain and the twill were higher than satin. When DTY and P/F were used as weft, the shear force was higher in ITY and DTY than in P/F case. 4. Koshi appeared higher in the order of plain, twill and satin. When DTY and P/F were used as the weft Koshi increased with increasing the twist in plain, however in twill and satin it appeared to decrease. In hand value ITY(=7.5) appea.ed to be highe. than DTY and P/F(=6.5). 5. In all cases Shinayakasa decreased with increasing the twist. The hand values observed that satin was =4, twill was =3, and plain was =1.5. 6. Fukurami showed no significant change with increasing the twist in DTY, however in P/F and ITY it decreased.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.153-165
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• 2008

The methods used in determining the weaving period of the textiles comprises not only radiocarbon dating but also discrimination of the motif and the textile structure. This study surveys the variation of the structure and the characteristics of the patterned textile of the Joseon dynasty to determine the weaving period. The number of twill gradually decreased in the Joseon dynasty while satin weave became more popular and the non-patterned twill almost vanished after 1600 A.D. The patterned plain weave was started to weave from the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but this has been shifted to twill, satin weave, floated weave, or the textiles with combined techniques more than 2 kinds after 1800 A.D. For the twist of threads, the number of the fabrics with Z-twisted thread in the warp and the non-twisted thread in the weft showed peak in 1600 A.D. and gradually decreased afterward. After 1600 A.D., the textile without twist became general trend.The satin weave started to appear with the 5-end satin in the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but the 8-end satin started to appear from the middle of 17th century and got more popularity with time. At the same period, the patterned textile on the ground of the satin weaved with the different techniques from the earlier period started to appear. The twist of the satin in the 1600 A.D. showed similar trends as twill, this general trend resulted from the fact that the non-twisted thread in the weaving became more popular with the time at that period.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.453-459
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to provide the basic knowledge to determine the proper seam finish according to the design of sewing products. Four seam finishes(no seam finishes, over-edged seam finishes, turned-and-stitched seam finishes, and bias-bound seam finishes) were constructed with seams in warp, weft and bias directions of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18cm diameter supporting disks and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Drape coefficients of the fabrics increased with seam formation and varied by the seam finishes, however no significant differences in drape coefficients by the seam finishes were observed on the heavier fabric. Node numbers of heavier fabric were more deeply affected by the seam finishes than those of lighter fabric. The specimens with turned-and-stitched seam finishes and bias-bound seam finishes showed significantly smaller node numbers compared to the specimens with no seam finishes and over-edged seam finishes on heavier fabric. The length of the seamed part showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens and negative correlation with the number of nodes in each seam direction. The maximum length of all draped specimens was found in the same direction as the seam direction. In the case of the lighter fabric, the seam and the seam finish had a great influence on the shape of the draped profile.