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The Bans on Po in the Early Years of the Joseon Dynasty (조선 초기 포화 금지령)

  • Choi, Kyu-soon;Koh, Bouja
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.13 no.5 s.58
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    • pp.729-742
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    • 2005
  • This paper studied the ban on 'Po[포]', including hemp and ramie, on the basis of Joseon Wangcho Silok (the True Record of Joseon Dynasty). Po is the important point which can help to understand the people's life related with clothing. This paper showed that in the early years of the Joseon Dynasty, the state had forced kinds of bans on some fabrics many times. Among the bans of the fabrics-making the main part was the bans on Po, along with rice, used as money in those days. The state had on Po enacted on the policy to intend to promote paper money circulation more widely. However, people didn't want to use paper money. The reason why cloth could be practical and functional as a kind of currency was that people could make clothes with it at any time while they used it as money. People avoided using paper money that could not be used in that way, and so did public officials. At that time, Po that was generally used as money was the hemp of five warp threads. The measurement of the hemp in 7chi[촌; a Korean inch] by 35chok[척] and 32cm by 16m by modern metric. It also showed that it has been thought that the blended fabrics are the fabrics that were made of raw silk-threads and cotton threads as warp and weft respectively. However, the fact that there is a record of 'Jeo Ma Gyo Jik Po[저마교직포의]'(blended fabrics and clothes made of ramie and hemp) and there appear the new proofs of the fieldwork investigation shows that the concept of blended fabrics might be various or changeable as time passed.

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Effects of Treatment of Cellulase and Alkali on Physical Properties and Dyeability of Ramie/Man-Made Fiber Mixture Fabrics (셀룰라아제와 알칼리 처리에 의한 저마/인조섬유 교직물의 물성과 염색성 변화)

  • 김순심;최종명
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.5
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    • pp.891-900
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study were to evaluate the physical properties and dyeability of cellulase and alkali(NaOH, KOH) treated ramie/man-made fiber mixture fabrics. The mixture fabrics were plain weave made by rayon and polyester fiber as warp yarn, and ramie as weft yarn. The crease resistance, drape, tensile strength, and water absorbancy were measured for test fabrics. The K/S value of dyed fabrics were calculated using color difference meter. Also colorfastness to washing and sunlight of dyed fabrics were evaluated. The results obtained from this study were as follows: Thickness and weight per unit area of alkali treated two mixture fabrics(rayon/ramie, polyester/ramie) increased compared to those of untreated fabrics, but cellulase treated fabrics did not changed a little. And alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics showed more change than polyester/ramie mixture fabrics on the thickness and weight. Tensile strength and water absorbancy of cellulase treated fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance increased. Crease resistance, tensile strength(warp direction), water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Water absorbancy and drape of NaOH treated polyester/ramie mixture fabrics decreased compared to those of untreated, but crease resistance and tensile strength(weft direction) increased. Tensile strength of KOH treated two mixture fabrics increased compared to that of untreated, but water absorbancy and drape decreased. Total hand of cellulase and alkali treated rayon/ramie mixture fabrics was improved compared to untreated. Dyeability of treated mixture fabrics was increased compared to untreated.

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A Study on Three-dimensional Effects and Deformation of Textile Fabrics: Dynamic Deformations of Silk Fabrics

  • Kim, Minjin;Kim, Jongjun
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.17 no.6
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    • pp.28-43
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    • 2013
  • Recent trends toward the collaborations among various sectors of academia and research areas have brought interests and significances in new activities especially in the fashion and textile areas. One of the collaboration examples is the recent research projects on 3D virtual clothing systems based on the 3D CAD software. The 3D virtual clothing systems provide simulated apparels with high degrees of fidelity in terms of color, texture, and structural details. However, since real fabrics exhibit strong nonlinearity, anisotropy, viscoelasticity, and hysteresis, the 3D virtual clothing systems need fine tuning parameters for the simulation process. In this study, characteristics of silk fabrics, which are woven by using degummed silk and raw silk yarns, are being analyzed and compared. Anisotropic properties may be measured as warp and filling direction properties separately in woven fabrics, such as warp tensile stress or filling bending rigidity. Hysteretic properties may be measured as bending hysteresis or shear hysteresis by using KES measurements. These data provide deformation-force relationships of the fabric specimen. Three-dimensional effects obtained when using these characteristic fabrics are also analyzed. The methods to control the three-dimensional appearance of the sewn fabric specimens when utilizing a programmable microprocessor-based motor device, as prepared in this study, are presented. Based on the physical and mechanical properties measured when using the KES equipment, the property parameters are being into a 3-dimensional virtual digital clothing system, in order to generate a virtual clothing product based on the measured silk fabric properties.

Analysis of the Net Mouth Shape for a Midwater Trawl Gear (중층 트롤 어구의 망구 형상 해석)

  • 김인진;이춘우
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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    • v.35 no.2
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    • pp.118-128
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    • 1999
  • The shape of the net mouth in a midwater trawl gear is examined by measuring towing speed, gear resistance, the width of otter boards, net height, and so on of a full-scale gear in operation. In addition, a mathematical model is developed to predict shapes of the net mouth. In the model, shapes of head, ground, side ropes, which governs the shape of net mouth, are assumed as a catenary. The validity of the model is tested with observations. The results can be summarized as follows: 1. The warp tension and vertical opening of the gear is highly dependent to the towing speed. The depth of the gear and width of otter boards are very sensitive to the variations of the warp length. 2. The model results indicate that the wing tip of the head and side ropes is reduced and the vertical distances of the head and side ropes sagged to the back with increasing towing speed. 3. The results of comparing the measured net height with calculated side rope height were satisfying. 4. The results of analysis showed the vertical axis of the net mouth was decreased and the width of the net mouth was little changed when the towing speed increased.

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A study of complex dyeing using natural dyestuffs - Focus on cellulose fiber - (천연염료의 복합염색에 관한 연구 - 셀룰로오즈계 섬유를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Mi Kyung;Kim, Taemi
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.431-440
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this research is to revive the colors of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with natural dyestuffs. The fabrics used were cotton and rayon. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were indigo, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. The effects of combination dyeing were as follows. First, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, while the surface K/S of cotton was over 15, that of rayon was over 17. Third, the results of the light fastness measurement showed the superiority (by over grade 4) of all the samples, except in the case of rayon fiber sample no. 6 (which had been pre-dyed with indigo five times before being dyed with P. amurense once and then being dyed with C. sappan once). In the color fastness to washing measurement, all fibers showed superiority (by over grade 3~4). In addition, the color fastness to dry cleaning of all fibers was satisfactory or excellent (by over grade 3). Fourth, according to the results of the tensile strength measurement, it tended to decrease in the case of cotton and increase in the case of rayon. Fifth, the results of the density measurement showed that the density of cotton decreased by about 15~20% in the case of warp and 10% in the case of weft for all samples. The density of rayon decreased 20% in the case of warp for all samples and increased 30% in the case of weft for all samples.

Development of Simulnation Program of Screw Driving Weft Insertion Mechanism for Rapier Loom (래피어 직기용 스크류 구동 위입기구의 시뮬레이션 프로그램 개발)

  • Kim, Jong-Su;Seong, Baek-Ju
    • 연구논문집
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    • s.30
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    • pp.101-110
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    • 2000
  • Weft insertion mechanism is for completing the structure of yarn and weft yarn and its driving method is screw type. In the high speed rapier loom, weft yarn is thrown by insert rapier and carrier rapier into the shed which make divide two parts of upper part ant lower part for warp yarn. It is possible for this mechannism to reduce the size of rapier and wheel, and directly connected to the main shaft without gear belt. Therefore, exact rapier motion through realization of arbitrary acceleration diagram requested rapier and optimal design for high speedization and operating rate increasing are necessary. In this study, with a view to exact system analysis for understanding of overall trace and high speedization of rapier loom through computer simulation. we report not only deduction of displacement, velocity, and acceleration components of rapier for analysis theory establishment, of weft insertion mechanism and exact motion induction according to screw rotation, but also development of simulation program for realization these on the monitor.

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Mathematical Models that Underlie Computer Simulation of the Trawl Doors for Mid-Water Trawls

  • Gabryuk, Victor Ivanovich;Kudakaev, Vasilii Vladimirovich
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • v.42 no.1
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    • pp.77-88
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    • 2020
  • This paper presents the coordinate systems used for trawl doors modeling, and provides matrix equations of connection between these systems. The projections of the forces acting on the door into axes of various coordinate systems were obtained, which were used in the door equilibrium equations. Six equilibrium conditions for the door as a solid were obtained: formulas that allow for the door area in plan to be determined; its weight in water; its mass; three moment equations for determining the position of the warp and backstrops fastening points to the door with triangular and quadrangular backstrop arrangements. It was found that the moment equilibrium equations of trawl doors are generally incompatible, which was not found by any of the authors who have previously conducted research into trawl doors. Using the Kronecker-Capelli theorem, the compatibility equation is obtained. This equation includes the coordinates of the backstrop fastening points to the door, which means that these points cannot be randomly selected. The technique of determining the warp and backstrops' fastening points position to the door is described. Conditions of directional (by angle of attack) and roll (in angle of roll) stability of the doors' equilibrium are presented. The equations presented in this paper comprise a mathematical model that allows, when designing the doors, to select optimal parameters, as well as to carry out adjustments for trawling purposes to ensure the stable movement of the doors and the entire trawl system.

A Study on the Low Velocity Impact Response of Woven Fabric Composites for the Hybrid Composite Train Bodyshell (하이브리드 복합재 철도차량 차체 적용 적층판의 저속충격특성 연구)

  • Lee Jae-Hean;Cheong Seong-Kyun;Kim Jung-Seok
    • Composites Research
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    • v.18 no.3
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    • pp.7-13
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    • 2005
  • This paper presents a study on the low velocity impact response of the woven fabric laminates for the hybrid composite bodyshell of a tilting railway vehicle. In this study, the low velocity impact tests for the three laminates with size of $100mm\times100mm$ were conducted at three impact energy levels of 2.4J, 2.7J and 4.2J. Based on the tests, the impact force, the absorbed energy and the damaged area were investigated according to the different energy levels and the stacking sequences. The damage area was evaluated by the visual inspection and the C-scan device. The test results show that the absorbed energy of [fill]8 laminate is highest whereas (fill2/warp2)s is lowest. The [fill]8 laminate has the largest damage area because of the highest impact energy absorption.

Evaluation of Mechanical Performance of Membrane Type Secondary Barrier Anisotropic Composites depending on Fiber Direction (멤브레인 형 2차 방벽 이방성 복합재료의 섬유방향에 따른 기계적 성능 평가)

  • Jeong, Yeon-Jae;Kim, Jeong-Dae;Hwang, Byeong-Kwan;Kim, Hee-Tae;Oh, Hoon-Gyu;Kim, Yong-Tai;Park, Seong-Bo;Lee, Jae-Myung
    • Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.57 no.3
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    • pp.168-174
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    • 2020
  • Recently, the size of Liquified Natural Gas (LNG) carriers has been increasing, in turn increasing the load generated during operation. To handle this load, the thickness of LNG Cargo Containment Systems (CCSs) should be increased. Despite increasing the thickness of LNG CCSs, a secondary barrier is still used in conventional thickness. Therefore, the mechanical performance of the existing secondary barrier should be verified. In this study, tensile test of the secondary barrier was performed to evaluate mechanical properties under several low- and cryogenic-temperature conditions considering LNG environment, and in each fiber direction considering that the secondary barrier is composed of anisotropic composite materials depending on the glass fibers. Additionally, the coefficient of thermal expansion was measured by considering the degradation of the mechanical properties of the secondary barrier caused by the generated thermal stress during periodical unloading. As a result, the mechanical performance of secondary barrier in the Machine Direction (MD) was generally found to be superior than that in the Transverse Direction (TD) owing to the warp interlock structure of the glass fibers.

On the Use of Standing Oblique Detonation Waves in a Shcramjet Combustor

  • Fusina, Giovanni;Sislian, Jean P.;Schwientek, Alexander O.;Parent, Bernard
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Propulsion Engineers Conference
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    • 2004.03a
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    • pp.671-686
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    • 2004
  • The shock-induced combustion ramjet (shcramjet) is a hypersonic airbreathing propulsion concept which over-comes the drawbacks of the long, massive combustors present in the scramjet by using a standing oblique detonation wave (a coupled shock-combustion front) as a means of nearly instantaneous heat addition. A novel shcramjet combustor design that makes use of wedge-shaped flameholders to avoid detonation wave-wall interactions is proposed and analyzed with computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations in this study. The laminar, two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations coupled with a non-equilibrium hydrogen-air combustion model based on chemical kinetics are used to represent the physical system. The equations are solved with the WARP (window-allocatable resolver for propulsion) CFD code (see: Parent, B. and Sislian, J. P., “The Use of Domain Decomposition in Accelerating the Convergence of Quasihyperbolic Systems”, J. of Comp. Physics, Vol. 179, No. 1,2002, pages 140-169). The solver was validated with experimental results found in the literature. A series of steady-state numerical simulations was conducted using WARP and it was deter-mined by means of thrust potential calculations that this combustor design is a viable one for shcramjet propulsion: assuming a shcramjet flight Mach number of twelve at an altitude of 36,000 m, the geometrical dimensions used for the combustor give rise to an operational range for combustor inlet Mach numbers between six and eight. Different shcramjet flight Mach numbers would require different combustor dimensions and hence a variable geometry system in or-der to be viable.

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