• Title/Summary/Keyword: Victorian

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A Study about the Characteristics of Designs in John Galliano Collection - focusing on Christian Dior's Collection - (존 갈리아노 컬렉션의 디자인 특성에 관한 연구 - 크리스찬 디오르의 컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Kwuy-Young;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.50-65
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    • 2009
  • The main purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of shapes of John Galliano's Dior Collection as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison during $1996{\sim}2007$ after he showed himself in Paris in 1990. This study was based on the analyses of John Galliano's design trends of his collections, the pictures of his works in Christian Dior's collection, real works, documents and fashion magazines, newspapers, mass media, internet sites and other visual materials. The study identified characteristics of shapes in Dior Collection until 07/08 F/W as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison, and the design trends before his post-Paris period. Followings are the conclusions of the study. First, Galliano was open to any types of cultures as a liberalist, and also respectful to the tradition or principles. He led the fashion business with new trends by exploring both sides. Second, he succeeded in commercializing his avant-garde feature. Especially, His creativity changed the image of Christian Dior to younger and more casual one. Third, born in England and worked in French, he always took both English (Victorian Style) and French(Napoleon era, Femme Fatal style) sides, and showed excellent formulation that the times needed by combining topical Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian styles.

A review on the stray current countermeasures of DC electric railways(1) Europe and Australia (직류전기철도의 누설전류 방지대책에 대한 고찰(1) 유럽과 호주)

  • Ha, Yoon-Cheol;Bae, Jeong-Hyo;Ha, Tae-Hyun;Lee, Hyun-Goo;Kim, Dae-Kyeong
    • Proceedings of the KIEE Conference
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    • 2006.07b
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    • pp.1075-1076
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    • 2006
  • The wide spread of DC electric railway systems such as urban rapid transits including heavy rail and light rail transits has significant ramification as the stray currents from return conductor rails can cause the electrochemical interference, that is, the electrolytic corrosion of both rails and outside underground metallic infrastructures. The immature understanding of either the railway authority who is responsible for establishing the necessary provisions at the design stage or the affected parties makes it difficult to prepare the optimum range of solutions for the long-pending interference problem. In advanced countries, however, numerous assessment studies have been carried out on the stray current interference, by which protective standards and regulations are provided under the collaboration and agreement of the related parties. In this paper, we introduce a european standard from IEC, namely, "IEC 62128-2:2003 railway applications-fixed installations -part 2: protective provisions against the effects of stray currents caused by d.c. traction systems" and a "Code of Practice" produced by Victorian electrolysis committee (VEC) based on "Electricity Safety Act 1998" and "Electricity safety (stray current corrosion) regulations 1999" of Victoria state, Australia.

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Iconological Interpretation of Makeup depicted in Alexander McQueen's Collection (Alexander McQueen 컬렉션에 표현된 메이크업의 도상학적 해석)

  • Kim, Hyun-Mi;Kim, Sook-Hyun;Jang, Ae-Ran
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.10
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    • pp.118-132
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of the research is to develop a systematic model to interpret makeup signs through a case analysis of makeup shown in Alexander McQueen's ready-to-wear collections from 2001 to 2010 and to prove an importance of makeup as a communication medium to deliver social and cultural values. This research employed Panofsky's Iconology theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) pre-iconographical description, (2) iconographical analysis, and (3) iconological interpretation. Alexander McQueen's makeup was analyzed with the three steps in order. As a result of the pre-iconographical description step, makeup styles (icons) in his collections are identified which are Egyptian style, Gothic style, Androgynous style, Victorian style, Fantasia style, and Futuristic variant style. The iconographical analysis step identified that the elements used in his makeup are inspired by his identity and life. In the final step of iconological interpretation, the researcher concluded that Alexander McQueen's makeup expresses social, cultural, and aesthetical value of the time period when the collection was created. His makeup shows postmodernism that accepts a diversity of views (the pluralism) and humanism, romantic narcissism that is his personality trait, and avant-garde that pursues a new, creative aesthetics.

Study on the Style of Adirondack Rockers, Mission Style Rockers, and European Rockers

  • Lim, Seung-Taeg;Chung, Woo-Yang
    • Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.59-83
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    • 2006
  • This article was written in order to understand rockers of today and to provide basic data of their designs and manufacture studying pattern changes in the West. This article contains, the characteristics of the style of the Adirondack rockers, the Mission style rockers in America and the European rockers. Adirondack rockers ($1850{\sim}1940$) were made in various styles out of the mingling of rustic sensibilities with the formalism of Victorian designs. They were Old Hickory chair Co. style, Westport style, bentwood rocker style of two shape and Mottville rocker style. Mission style denoted American furniture design style of the early 20th century especially the work of Gustav Stickley and Roycroft Community. Mission style rockers had a simple, rectilinear style with exposed construction techniques, unpretentious materials (usually oak, with covering of leather, canvas or plain cloth) and little or no decoration. European rockers ($1660{\sim}1918$) have come to mean rockers from the English regional chair, Thonet, J&J Kohn, Henry Van de Velde and Hoffmann. The modernism of modern furniture was affected by the characteristics of the Adirondack rockers, the Mission style rockers and European rockers.

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Aesthetics of Goth as a subculture style (고스 하위문화 스타일의 미적 특성)

  • Yim, Eunhyuk
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 2013
  • Subcultural style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of membership. The Goth subculture has associated tastes in music, aesthetics, and fashion. The style symbolized the strong subjective subcultural identity held by most Goths and acted as the practical basis to demonstrate their commitment to the subculture. This study investigates the aesthetic and the style of Goth subculture in its heyday of 1980s which has continued to affect mainstream fashion and culture since its birth. In order to inquire the concept of subculture and its style, this study executes literature survey as well as investigates the images of street style magazines to analyze the visual elements. The stylistic and the aesthetic characteristics of Goth subcultural style analyzed in this study are grouped into four categories as follows: first, Victoriana, which embodies the fear of death and the nostalgia for the past using Victorian morning dresses and corsets, second, vampirism, in that some Goths who are fascinated by vampires are costumed in vampire figures to advocate diabolism and decadence, third, sexual ambiguity of male Goths which emphasizes feminine appearance in the pursuit of androgyny, and fourth, sexual fetish of female Goths which represents aggressive eroticism utilizing fetish paraphernalia.

Scientific Revolution in the Lab: Mad Scientists' Labs in Victorian Novels (실험실의 과학 혁명-빅토리아시대 소설에 나타난 '미친' 과학자들의 실험실)

  • Choo, Jae-uk
    • Journal of English Language & Literature
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    • v.58 no.2
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    • pp.305-325
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    • 2012
  • It is by the mad scientists that the ontological and epistemological turn was made in that scientific era. They achieved a scientific revolution although they were regarded as eccentric, comic, unsound, and evil ones in the dark and dismal labs. Likewise, a scientist who would like to create an anomaly, something novel and abnormal, tended to be considered mad and treated as such either because of his scientific theory which differed from those of other scientists or because his obstinate methodology was often blamed for its immorality and profaneness. Despite the fanciful purpose and the anomalous way in which the mad scientists did their experiments, these were attempts to explore new scientific terrain and find something new or unexpected, which often raised controversies between the old paradigm and the new one. As Thomas Kuhn manifests, subsequently, "an older paradigm is replaced in whole or in part by an incompatible new one" and then, "there must be a conflict between the paradigm that discloses anomaly and the one that later renders the anomaly lawlike." In that sense, Frankenstein's, Jekyll's, and Moreau's eerie challenges can be interpreted as efforts to achieve the ambitious goal of solving the scientific mysteries of the world in such unfavorable environmental conditions as specified in the three novels.

Reading Projected Objects: Thing Theory and Sensation Novels (욕망화된 사물읽기: Thing Theory와 선정소설)

  • Kim, Heesun
    • English & American cultural studies
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    • v.18 no.2
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    • pp.51-78
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    • 2018
  • To put it simply, thing theory is a study of meaningful capacities of materiality. Although T. S. Eliot regarded pathetic fallacy as the bad example of objective correlatives in his modernism poetry theory, it is clear that many objects in literary works reflect diverse human desires. Among many, Victorian sensation novels are the most distinct genre where the various paraphernalia in them indicate the distorted and exaggerated greed of the industrial revolution era. Whereas the male protagonists are usually related with the norms objects of authority such as portrait and locket, the female characters' connection with cosmetics and white dress shows their oppressed and fragile position in the patriarchal and hierarchical society. In the (post)modern society, the ambiguity of things has grown rapidly due to the increasing discrepancy between objects and things. In special, the new journalism and the psychological realism novels often reveal the post-truth phenomenon because consumerized audience depend more upon the attraction and affect than the mere evidence and facts. For the individual, according to object relations theory, these alternative facts are rather internalized into their mind as the internal object when they are motivated by the non/contact with primary caregivers in their childhood. The dominant material imagery in (post)modern fiction becomes the site of resistance because of their reconstructed and extended meaning. The object relations theory and thing theory can be effectively used to uncover the complicated meanings of desired objects by using the human-object's meaningful relations and early mental images that are secretly alive still in the present.

A Study on the Goth Style in Toon Hertz's Fashion Illustration (툰 헤르츠의 패션 일러스트레이션에 나타난 고스 스타일)

  • Semi, Jeon;Haejung, Yum
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.26 no.5
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    • pp.62-75
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    • 2022
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze the types of aesthetic characteristics and their expression methods in the goth style expressed with the sensibility of an illustrator, using the work of Toon Hertz as an example. As a research method for this purpose, previous studies and books were used to examine the components of fashion illustration, the concept and aesthetic characteristics of goth style, and the world of Toon Hertz's work. In the qualitative studies, Toon Hertz's works were collected and the characteristics of each component were analyzed. As a result of analyzing the aesthetic characteristics, Distortion appeared as the main element of the human body, and the human body was distorted through the method of combining the human body with animals, plants, and other objects. History was mainly expressed through fashion elements. Victorian clothing was predominant, the color was mainly black, and it was characterized by decorations, such as fancy laces, corsets, and shirrings. The screen layout and the object components appeared as the main components of mystery. Sensuality was a major component of the human body, and it emphasized decadent and sensual images of a woman sitting with both legs apart or placing her hands on her legs or chest. Fear was the main component of the human body, and strangeness and fear were created by omitting or removing parts of the body, such as women's arms, legs, hands, or eyes.

Feeling Florence Nightingale: Theorizing Affect in Transatlantic Periodical Poetry

  • Bonfiglio, Richard
    • Journal of English Language & Literature
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    • v.58 no.6
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    • pp.1063-1083
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    • 2012
  • Florence Nightingale is best remembered today as the Lady with the Lamp, but modern research on the English nurse primarily addresses her popular iconography as a historical misrepresentation of her character and career. This scholarly reluctance to analyze critically Nightingalean iconography, however, has obscured important cultural work performed by the popular tropes. This article argues that the proliferation of Nightingale's iconic image as a symbol of Christian womanhood in transatlantic periodical poetry, when examined separately from biographical considerations, reveals important insights into the complex relationship between form and affect in mid-nineteenth periodicals. Popular representations of Nightingale give form to the disorienting effects produced on newspaper readers by the nascent field of international journalism and reflect a key generic paradox at the heart of the Victorian periodical: the simultaneous aim to report news objectively and to move readers affectively in response to events beyond national contexts and interests. Focusing on Lewis Carroll's "The Path of Roses" and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's "Santa Filomena," this article contends that Nightingalean periodical poetry mirrors back to readers their own affective response to modern media and functions as a new technology for managing an increasingly acute awareness of events and ethical responsibilities beyond the nation.

Application of Quantitative Assessment of Coronary Atherosclerosis by Coronary Computed Tomographic Angiography

  • Su Nam Lee;Andrew Lin;Damini Dey;Daniel S. Berman;Donghee Han
    • Korean Journal of Radiology
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    • v.25 no.6
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    • pp.518-539
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    • 2024
  • Coronary computed tomography angiography (CCTA) has emerged as a pivotal tool for diagnosing and risk-stratifying patients with suspected coronary artery disease (CAD). Recent advancements in image analysis and artificial intelligence (AI) techniques have enabled the comprehensive quantitative analysis of coronary atherosclerosis. Fully quantitative assessments of coronary stenosis and lumen attenuation have improved the accuracy of assessing stenosis severity and predicting hemodynamically significant lesions. In addition to stenosis evaluation, quantitative plaque analysis plays a crucial role in predicting and monitoring CAD progression. Studies have demonstrated that the quantitative assessment of plaque subtypes based on CT attenuation provides a nuanced understanding of plaque characteristics and their association with cardiovascular events. Quantitative analysis of serial CCTA scans offers a unique perspective on the impact of medical therapies on plaque modification. However, challenges such as time-intensive analyses and variability in software platforms still need to be addressed for broader clinical implementation. The paradigm of CCTA has shifted towards comprehensive quantitative plaque analysis facilitated by technological advancements. As these methods continue to evolve, their integration into routine clinical practice has the potential to enhance risk assessment and guide individualized patient management. This article reviews the evolving landscape of quantitative plaque analysis in CCTA and explores its applications and limitations.