• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.211-217
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• 1999

To investigate the fitting and its problems related in clothing fit and to get basic data to develop fitted ready-to-wear garment, total 238 subjects were surveyed during the period of May, 1997 in Taejon. The major results were as follows; 1. The results showed that most subjects had purchased ready-to-wear garments in a department store. 2. The fit of ready-to-wear garments is more suitable in the upper wear such as T-shirts and blouse than in lower wear such as skirts and pants. 3. Fitting problems in ready-to-wear garments were identified, including sleeve length, shoulder area. 4. A variety of fitting problems in ready-to-wear garments were showed waistline, thigh girth, sleeve length. 5. There were significant differences between the demographic variables, i.e. marital status and occupation and clothing problems.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.93-100
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness and its problems related in clothing fitness and to get basic data to develop fit ready-to-wear garment, total 352 subjects were surveyed during the period of November, 1998. The major results of this study were as follows ; 1. Both men and women felt fitter in upper clothes than lower clothes. As compared with women, men became more aware of proper fit except coat. 2. Men had lest fitting problems in blouse and shirts while women in coat. Also, the clothes stated which had most fitting problems were trousers by men and women. 3. A variety of fitting problems in ready-to wear garments were identified including sleeve length, skirt length, and pants length. 4. The most frequent alterations were shortening or lengthen of skirt and pants.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.142-154
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• 2003

This study was conducted on the costume of the 6 minorities dwelling in Guizhou Province of China. The result of the study is summarized as follows. As Guizhou Province yields much silver, most of the minorities used silver ornaments a lot and dyed their garments by using indigo extracted from plants that grow in the area. The headdress was of style that for both men and women a long cloth is wound around a head in various ways. In some cases, women used cow's horn, pearl and silver ornaments. Most wore a short upper garment such as blouses with overlapping necks or blouses with diagonal on the front, and as a lower garment men and women wore trousers and skirts, respectively. As a way of ornament, embroidering, wax printing and weaving were commonly used, but pattern and color used in the ornament varied depending on the individual minorities.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.327-335
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• 2007

As the digital environment gets ubiquitous, domestic and international research and development on smart clothing is being conducted actively these days. However, most research is being carried out with its center on upper garment. So research on lower garment is insufficient even though it affects wearer's activity and comfort to a great extent when digital devices are attached or wearers moves their body. Therefore, the type of clothes this research proposes is men's formal pants which have an electrically-vibrating wearable device. These are smart pants which are helpful in easing muscle pain with their massaging effect in daily life. For this purpose, this research intends to develop patterns considering the body shapes and movements of wearers and suggest a tentative structure plan for smart pants where a vibration device is attached, which is mainly composed of vibrating motor, controller, and switch, and considered their bulks, numbers, attaching places.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.97-109
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• 2015

Recently, because the market for compression wear now includes all consumers, not just professionals, various items for recovery after exercising or for enhanced effects from exercise have been introduced. In this research, a systematic and stepwise design process was proposed to develop compression garment that has both functional area and appropriate pressure to protect the knee when exercising. The U-V format functional area that wraps underneath the knee was selected by considering the shape and change in the skin length when bending the knee. After the selection of the functional area, a total of seven knee design areas, including the existing product, were designed to determine the appropriate pressure. After various movements, the compression garment was ranked in terms of support of the knee, level of pressure, discomfort of seam line, and comfort of popliteal; the preferred design was selected using the quad method. Four compression wear garments were produced using two selected preferred designs; the wear evaluation was performed using a seven-point Likert scale. As a result, the optimal reduction rate of the pattern was calculated based on Ziegert and Keil's method. The applied percentage of the fabric stretch at the upper part of the crotch was 66% for the width and 50% for the length; for the lower part of the crotch, only 66% for the width was applied. Moreover, it was determined that the design of the U-V knee protection part was preferred when a 7 mm square was placed at a 1 mm distance because this not only supports the knee but also allows the fabric to accommodate various skin deformations.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권7호
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• pp.984-999
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• 2013

This research examines the interrelation of clothes, colors and sentiments based on clothes and colors that stimulate sentiment. This study provides data that is useful to color therapy by means of clothes as medium. The survey for this study targeted 200 Pusan National University students who analyzed the colors of association and clothes colors for nine positive vocabularies (passion, love, warmth, happiness, interest, softness, comfortable, freshness, and coolness) and six negative vocabularies (anger, fear, despair, nervous, gloomy, and loneliness). The data collection process used 120 standard colors as represented by Munsell's basic 10 colors (R, YR, Y, GY, G, BG, B, PB, P, RP) as chromatic colors classified into eleven tones of colors (V, S, B, P, VP, LGR, GR, L, DL, DP, DK) and achromatic colors divided into ten steps of brightness N1-N10. The results of the research are as follows. First, the warm class of colors were significant in the colors of association with positive sentiment and the cold class of colors were significant in the sentiment of refreshment and coolness. In addition, bright and clear colors (like V, S, VP, P) were associated with color tones. Second, the low bright achromatic colors were generally high for the colors of association with negative sentiment; in addition, the color of R, PB, P (as achromatic colors) were also significant. In addition, sober and dark tones (like GR, DL, DK, DP) were significant in color tones. Third, the interrelation between positive sentiment and clothes colors shows that colors of association were mainly used for upper garment colors. Similar colors against upper garments were used together for bottom garment achromatic colors and complementary colors; therefore, bottom garments play a subsidiary role in the concept of coordination with upper garments.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.1191-1204
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• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2018

As men in their 30s are spending more money on clothing, it is becoming increasingly important to first conduct an anthropometric study and then develop garment patterns accommodating the changes found in body sizes and types of men in their 30s, in order to effectively address their fit dissatisfaction. Thus this study aims to explore changes in upper body sizes and body types of men in their 30s, which provide basic measurements for designing major garment items including jackets and shirts. To this purpose, key anthropometric dimensions of the upper body of men in their 30s, taken from the 6th (2015) and 7th (2016) surveys conducted by Size Korea, were analyzed using SPSS 24.0 for Windows. Independent sample t-tests were conducted on major upper body sizes to track changes with measuring time. Factor and cluster analyses were used to classify body types. By comparing the two surveys, it was found that the overall body sizes of men in their 30s were increasing in height-related items, circumference, thickness, and width, -as well as body weight and BMIs. Upper body height-related items, in particular, showed a higher average value in the 6th survey than in the 7th, indicating that the overall body types of men are becoming "westernized" with longer legs and shorter torso. Finally, five factors were derived to determine the typical upper body types of men in their 30s and the body types were classified into three categories according to the cluster analysis. First, those with a relatively small build with short stature and torso. Second, those with the highest stature and vertical dimension with the smallest torso volume and least body fatness. Third, those with the biggest torso volume and most body fatness with bigger width between armpits and shoulders. The distributional pattern analysis showed that men in their 30s tend to have increasingly higher stature but lower body weight and BMIs than in the past, implying that their body types are becoming close to those of men in their 20s.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.