• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.85-94
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• 2010

Comparative analysis of marker efficiency in blouse patterns, based on different sleeve designs, was carried out. Sleeve designs used included set-in-sleeve, laglan sleeve, and epaulet sleeve. The two types of epaulet sleeves, A and B, are based on pattern arrangement methods of center back. Cloth and production conditions are the width of cloth, the number of marking pieces, and the direction for marking deployment. A blouse pattern saved to the PAD CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marker efficiency in different conditions. The results were as follows. On the whole, the marker efficiency of small pattern sized set-insleeve was higher than laglan and epaulet sleeve designs. It was also established that marker efficiency is dependent on cloth and production conditions. For small number of marking pieces, efficiency was higher in the condition of 110cm cloth widths compared with that condition of 150cm cloth widths. However the efficiency of large number of marking pieces was higher in the condition of 150cm cloth widths.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.130-139
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• 2009

This study was conducted to reproduce the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were classified into three groups(S1~S3) by the pattern pieces and the bend of the lower part of the elbow line. The S1 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S1 was not bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S1 was smaller than S2 and S3. The S2 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S2 was bent. The S2 pattern had typical characteristics of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve that the gathers volume of sleeve cap was large and the lower part of elbow line was tight. The S3 was two-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S3 was bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S3 was similar with S2. The study patterns of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve which had the characteristics and the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve were evaluated to have the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.15-25
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• 2003

In this study on the Persiandress called Persiandress or Mediandress, its names, styles, and structures that are still subject to a great deal of controversy were investigated. In addition, the reason why the Persiandress was wrongly named as Kandys by the early researchers was also examined. The documents of reliefs on the Apadanastairs in Persepolis and the European papers concerning this themes were subject of this analysis. Such investigation and examination results are summarized as follows. There is still no agreed name describing the Persiandress, which is called "Persiandress" or "Mediandress". Further, there is no definite conclusion on whether the Persiandress was made in one piece or two pieces. The first person who insisted that the Persiandress was made in one piece is a German archaeologist, Ernst Herzfeld. He said that the Persiandress was made in one long tetragonal piece, had a hole in the middle for head, and had lots of pleats when it was tied with a belt. On the contrary, researchers who insisted that the Persiandress was made in two pieces stressed the sleeve pleats in four folds, which is one of the representative characteristics, and said that such four-fold sleeve pleats would not be formed when the Persiandress was made in one piece and worn by a belt. Consequently, they have conducted studies according to their insistence and the resultant pattern. Kandys, the Median's typical dress, is a coat worn over the jacket and trousers. Although it had sleeves, the Median did not use them. Indeed, Kandys was used as a kind of cloak. However, the wrong term, Kandys is still used in Korea. So, it is necessary to correct use of such wrong term.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.79-89
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• 2008

Jongga means a head family by only first son's line of each generation. It is our culture's root and identity. It also includes ritual for continuing filial duty. Ritual takes the main role on jongga culture to pay respects to Jongga's ancestors and roots. Therefore, ritual costume's importance can not be neglected. We will check a Po mainly for Jongga ritual costumes' types and designs to refind Jonggas identity and its meaning. In this research, areas are divided to Gyoungsang by Youngnam sect and Jeonla by Kiho sect. Geochang, Andong in Gyoungsang province and Haenam, Namwon, Youngkwang in Jeonla province where currently first sons of Jongga reside have been researched. The method is based on Books and visits on the places. Ritual costumes' types and designs are different between Gyoungsang and Jeonla. Firstly, now in Jongga, only a Dopo and a Durumagi are worn while the manner book shows a Danryoung, a Jikryoung, a Dopo and a Simu. Also costumes are variable on areas. Secondly, a Po is characterized by its sleeve and back-line's inside skirt. In a Po, Gyoungsang has a Duri sleeve and Jeonla has a Duri sleeve which has been changed from a Dunggun sleeve. While Gyoungsang has rectangle-shaped two pieces cloths and a split in a bottom, Jeonla has both a Mu with a split back and a complete split back in back-line's inside skirt. It seems that Youngnam sect's fundamentalism and Kiho sect's flexibility about culture of old political groups would have influenced on these patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.573-582
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• 2012

This work is to develop a T-shirt by adopting a unique cloud pattern (a good auspicious sign as design material) from traditional native Korean patterns for application to various cultural products and textile design cloth patterns; subsequently, a T-shirt design was processed based on this. As a research method, computer design programs Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used along with a literature examination as part of motive for design development and pattern realization. Three basic motives were selected as a new formative image in this work, utilizing graphical elements such as abridgement and simplicity of pattern, where flower-shaped cloud pattern, uprising cloud pattern, and 卍-shaped or swastika-shaped pattern of traditional cloud patterns were selected. Each motive diverged into two motives via the shape transformation and the application of different colors. The newly developed basic motive was further processed into a combination of one-time repeat pattern, stripe pattern, and application pattern with mixed cloud motives (that were previously developed), which altogether turned out to be 36 pieces of textile design. In addition, with newly developed motive designs and textile designs, a total of 12 shirt designs for 4 pieces were developed for these three each. The shirt design was developed into a shirt blouse, sleeveless T-shirt, half-sleeve T-shirt, and sports T-shirt among others in order to fit various uses and purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.462-469
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• 2005

This study was inquiry into wearing condition and satisfaction of Saenghwal Hanbok uniform for Korean restaurant's employees. For this Purpose to be fulfilled survey was carried out to the managers and employees who are working in Korean traditional restaurants located in Seoul, and the reality of wearing Saenghwal Hanbok uniforms and the employees's satisfaction were considered. It taken into consideration when designing Hanbok uniforms for Korean traditional restaurants. The analysis was executed involving Simple Analysis, Correlation Analysis, Independent Samples T-test, Paired Comparison, ANOVA, and Duncun Test using SPSS. The report shows that buyers get two pieces style of skirt ($74\%$) and they are buying from Hanbok shops ($58\%$), or from uniform shops ($21\%$). It is almost impossible to see that employees' opinion is reflected in the uniform design since the decisions are made by either Senior manager or General Manager. Based on the result of this survey, followings should be taken into consideration when designing Hanbok uniforms for Korean traditional restaurants. Firstly, a design should reflect a sphere and a radiuses of action throughout a grasp of the type of restaurant, such as the type of sitting and whether there are stairs or not, and the type of service in charge, and so on. Secondly, considerations on the fabrics in terms of sweat absorption, tactility, weight and so on should be prioritized emphasizing a functional aspect. Thirdly, a sleeve should be narrower and shorter, and the skirt should be less wide and not crease easily. Lastly, a Geogori should be knot-button on with care in order not to be opened and a skirt should be zipped up.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.46-62
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• 2013

This thesis aims to provide basic resources for the development of various uniform designs of cheerleaders by investigating the currently favoured uniform designs. The 13 professional cheerleader teams were existed among the 25 professional sports teams-9 baseball, 10 basketball and 6 volleyball teams. In each sports teams, four cheerleader's uniform were chosen and evaluated in terms of the cheerleader uniform design by analyzing the forms, colors, decorations and accessories. The result shows that the common kinds of design representing the symbolic color and the emblem were generally prevalent, instead of particular types of uniform design and subject in accordance with different kinds of the professional baseball, basketball and volleyball respectively. Throughout all the kinds of the sports, the combination of the sleeveless top and hot-pants were most frequently observed. In case of the skirts, the mini flare, wrap, and pleats skirts were the most prevalent, because it gave free to motion for cheerleading. The one-piece style were rather infrequent, comparing with the two-pieces, with the hourglass and fitted silhouette the most frequent type, and all those were mini in length. The sleeve in top were generally absent or short, however the bare top style was never found that the top would have a risk of being taken off downwardly during cheerleading. The accessories and the cheering tools were not so much used. The cap and headdresses were not many in kinds. The pompom, megaphone, tube stick, towel, umbrella and musical instruments would not be sufficient to play a role of tools for cheering, which suggests that the rather advanced tools or instruments for cheering in the sports need to be developed, not alone the uniform design.