The study was aimed to develop men's working pants patterns through the computerized 3-D virtual clothing simulation system and to verify the effects of the 3-D simulated outfit by comparing it to the images of the actual outfits. The average body measurements of South Korean men aged between 30 and 39 used for the simulation in order to generate a 3-D virtual model and to realize outfits of men's working pants for the workers in the heavy industry in South Korea. And also the preliminary questionnaire survey results on certain aspects of the working pants such as type, detailed design preference and discomforting parts were taken into consideration. Both the simulated and real images of the developed working pants were compared in terms of the ease amount according to parts of the working pants, the position of seam lines, the appearance of darts and pleats, and the effects of the fabric surface according to expertise panels' subjective 5-point scale evaluation. The results throughout the study were (1) the basic working pants item worn by subject workers were the straight one pleated pants. The most discomforting parts of the working pants were in the order of body rise, thigh, hip, waist, pants hems and knee girth. (2) the drafting factors of pants patterns differed by the men's body features, which was related to the allocation of suppression amounts between waist and hip girths into darts and hip curve amounts on the waist line level of the pants. (3) the similarity of the virtually simulated and real images of men's working pants resulted in an average of 4.5 to the ease of appearance, 4.6 to the seam lines, 4.1 to the fabric surface effects in a 5-point scale, which means that the two were highly alike.
In this study, about forty teaching materials have been analyzed in order to examine tight skirt sewing methodtreated in basic process in a college and a fashion related educational institution. The study objects limited with a belt, back centered zipper, and back double slits on a tight skirt, and used fifteen suitable teaching materials in this study. The first study result appeared that every single teaching material suggested the different way of wick adhesion which is used in zipper slit, back slit, and belt part when the skit has been manufactured in order to do a form of clothes well. Secondly, it is the case of a back slit part used for the purpose of both functionality of action and decoration, and it is the section which varies a sewing and cutting way according to seam room width of a back middle seam. However, the majority of teaching materials appeared by being selecting the way how it had cut an inseam of the back center by the both upper part of back slit. Finally, the result showed that it mentioned mainly only both sided zipper sewing method if it seems to be easy to treat the majority in a basic process even though use of a console zipper Is general on a zipper sowing way recently for several years. Also, two forms are used in the belt manufacturing, and they are based with a waist line. However, the teaching materials that were used in this study presented only a manufacture way of the straight line on the waist belt.
Loke, Chi K.;Gunawardena, Yasoja K.R.;Aslani, Farhad;Uy, Brian
Steel and Composite Structures
/
제33권6호
/
pp.823-836
/
2019
Spiral welded tubes (SWTs) are fabricated by helically bending a steel plate and welding the resulting abutting edges. The cost-effectiveness of concrete-filled steel tube (CFST) columns can be enhanced by utilising such SWTs rather than the more conventional longitudinal seam welded tubes. Even though the steel-concrete interface bond strength of such concrete-filled spiral-welded steel tubes (CF-SWSTs) is an important consideration in relation to ensuring composite behaviour of such elements, especially at connections, it has not been investigated in detail to date. CF-SWSTs warrant separate consideration of their bond behaviour to CFSTs of other tube types due to the distinct weld seam geometry and fabrication induced surface imperfection patterns of SWTs. To address this research gap, axial push-out tests on forty CF-SWSTs were carried out where the effects of tube material, outside diameter (D), outside diameter to wall thickness (D/t), length of the steel-concrete interface (L) and concrete strength grade (f'c) were investigated. D, D/t and L/D values in the range 102-305 mm, 51-152.5 and 1.8-5.9 were considered while two nominal concrete grades, 20 MPa and 50 MPa, were used for the tests. The test results showed that the push-out bond strengths of CF-SWSTs of both mild-steel and stainless-steel were either similar to or greater than those of comparable CFSTs of other tube types. The bond strengths obtained experimentally for the tested CF-SWSTs, irrespective of the tube material type, were found to be well predicted by the guidelines contained in AISC-360.
This study provides suggestions of cultural product design contents by using the cloud-shaped gong in traditional temple culture in order to find a high value-added approach. The research herein is part of cultural design contents projects embedded with the spiritual value and symbolic connotation of temple culture. This would be meaningful to enhance its degree of utilization. This can also be a way to find a strategic alternative to a high value addition of temple stay and dissemination of temple culture. For the research methodology, literature was reviewed over temple stay and Bulgeonsamul. For motive design and development of cultural product design, both Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used as computer design program. The template image of cloud-shaped gong for basic motive design was selected from those available at the domestic temples for accurate depiction of its head and body. Finally, samples were adopted from those temples of Gounsa, Songgwangsa, Guinsa, Hwaeomsa, and Naesosa. For each motive, different colors were applied and ten basic motives were practiced in total. By repeating the process for these motives, three types of textile design were prepared. T-shirt designs used a round neckline as basic form, and it was designed for sleeved and sleeveless styles. Apron designs stressed V-neckline and two types were processed: one for the back seam line and the other for side seam line. Pendants were designed with modern and luxurious image so that so that it could be used in various types of accessories. Designs for the bedding applied pattern design of the motives and this was done in a way that gave the images a sense of stability and splendor.
Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the slacks pattern making on the movement-fitness of the knee region. The experimental items were divided into the lower limb movement (M1~M5) and slacks pattern designs (4 : basic pattern, in-pleats, side-pleats, seam-line increase). This study was done by clothing pressure test, sensory evaluation test and the difference shape-transformation of wearing-slacks. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows ; First, the clothing pressure test showed that the order of clothing pressure in the movement was the rabbit leap movement (M3), the sit on knees (M4), the nobleman sitting (M5), the sit on chair (M2) from the highest to the lowest. In the comparison of clothing pressure tested by blocks of lower-limb, center front knee region shows the highest of 300g/cm2. In it by constructional methods, the clothing pressure of in-pleats, side-pleats methods shows lower than basic pattern, hem-line increase methods. Also in comparison of the two methods, in-pleats method shows lower than side-pleats method. Second, by the sensory evaluation test based on the lower-limb movements and constructional methods of slacks, it was found that the functional factor score of the rabbit leap movement was also the waist, hip, knee region was the lowest in all blocks. And in the comparison of constructional methods, in-pleats method was the highest in all methods. Third, in consideration of the difference in the shape-transformation of wearing-slacks on the movement-fitness, pleats pattern design methods showed that the ratio of shape-transformation was lower than basic on seam-line increase methods. But the difference of the side-pleats and in-pleats methods was litle. According to these investigation, the slacks pattern making caused by movement-fitness on the knee region, in-pleats design method was the functional slacks pattern.
This study is to understand Chang-ui construction of the middle Chosun Dynasty through the reconstruction of the blue Chang-ui which was excavated from General Parks tomb. The followings are the results of this study. There are 4 styles in excavated Chang-ui of middle Chosun Dynasty: Two styles seem to belong to the early 17th Century and the other, the late 17th century. The former is classified into 2 styles by the gender of the wearer, the latter is also classified into 2 styles by etiquette of clothing. We can assume that Chang-ui excavated from General Parks tomb was the womans clothing in early 17th century. This Chang-ui(II) differs from other Chang-ui(I) at two points. One is the construction of the trapezoid and triangle gussets on the side seam of clothing. The other is the construction of the narrow width of clothing(23cm). We have found that these two gussets could improve the active aspect of clothing and save materials. It is identified that the green tone was faded from the blue color of Chang-ui according to the calculation of the L*a*b.
This research is regarding Park Ki-Jong's Western-style court costume and emphasizes the shape and style peculiarities of Western-style court costumes in the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korean to Japan. Park Ki-Jong's frock coat was made during the period of the established law from 1900 to 1910. 1) The brand was ASADA TAILOR from Kyung-Sung. 2) The shape was long at the front and back, and it featured a picked lapel and double breast with six buttons to fasten and two buttons for decoration on the upper part. 3) The frock coat's materials were black wool fabric and black ridged silk. The lining's material was black plain silk and the sleeve's lining was white with blue striped silk. 4) The front separated the upper and bottom parts. The bottom was composed of a one-piece A-line skirt that continued from the front to back. The top of the back was separated by the princess line and the center-back seam was also separated with a vent. However, the center-back of the waistline was not separated, and it continued to one piece. The sleeve shape was a two-piece sleeve style with a phony vent and two wrapping buttons.
This study is the design research for the practical use of Casual Hanbok. The conclusion of basic research for Casual Hanbok design reads as follows. Today's college women are fairly positive to the practical use of Casual Hanbok. Especially, they are strongly interested in the new design and have the active intention to wear it on actually. The concrete design of every parts of Casual Hanbok which is wanted by college women is as follows. Firstly, college women like well matched two-piece dress style in colors. And they want to decide the coloration independently than to follow the traditional coloration passively. Secondly, according to the design of jacket, sometimes they like the presence of a collar, a collar strip, a gore etc. and at other times they like absence of them. Thirdly, the side line of jacket they like and the seam line of sleeve they like is smoothly curved one and the adjusting means they like is a fancy button. Fourthly, the length of jacket they like reaches to their waist and the width of an armhole they like must be convenient for moving of arm. Fifthly, one out of two college women likes mixed spinning fabrics as material for jacket, skirt, pants. In the other hand, one out of five college women likes cotton. Sixthly, the skirt style they like is A line one having from two to four gathers on the waist and the length of skirt they like reaches to their ankle or calf of the leg. Seventhly, the pants style they like is the western style but the hem line of pants is the korean traditional pants style.
In recent years, much progress has been made in the automation of welding coped with a variety of highly flexible sensors. Among these sensors, only the eddy current sensor can detect the center location of the butt joint whose gap distance is zero. Thus, in this study the eddy current sensor is used to develop a robust and useful joint tracking system. The developed system is tested to qualify the performance of the system and seam tracking algorithm is proposed and two simulation are executed to show the performance of the proposed tracking algorithm.
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