• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.55-67
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• 1990

This is a review on the longitudinal transformation of the Japanese trousers, which is prepared as a pre-study for the comparative analysis of the forms of Korean and Japanese folk trousers. The special traits of the Japanese trousers are found to be as follows: 1) The Japanese trousers seem to have their root in the Northern-Asian or Schithian culture. 2) While the ancient forms of Japanese trousers, esp., those of the 8C before include the same types as Korean folk trousers, the Medieval and Recent era trousers quite differ and transform themselves into the unique Japanese type. 3) All Japanese trousers can largely be classified into formal and functional trousers. Formal trousers play important role as one of the ceremonial wardrobe and are treated rather as an outermost-wear than as an inner-wear. 4) The formal trousers have skirt-like features with much fullness as are presented in many deep pleats, long crotch lines and long sashes connected to the belt; the femine trousers even omit crotch line. 5) The principal forms of Japanese trousers consist of I, $\wedge,\;\wedge$; the $\lambda$ form of Korean and Chinese type had never existed. 6) Varieties of the composite type of Japanese-Western style appear among the trousers of recent time.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.82-91
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of trousers of Koguryo(高句麗). Trousers of Koguryo were called Go(袴: trousers) and those had various forms according to the shape of gusset(dang, 糖), width and length of the trousers. Commonly the trousers that had worn by Koguryo people had gausset in those bottom not to be shown hip. The gausset was cut triangle or square so if a person wear the trouser with the triangular gausset, the trouser has a pointed hip. Sometimes the trousers had non pointed hips were dicovered in the wall-paintings of the Koguryo tombs, they are thought the trousers that had no gaussets or square one. And also there were another trousers that had wide/narrow legs and long/short legs. Trousers of wide legs were called Gwango(寬袴) and narrow legs Sego(細袴). Gwango(寬袴) grew wider over time and in the late age, the trousers were called Daegugo(大口袴) with wide ends were worn. Trousers were also decorated elaborately with patches on the edges, leg ties, vents, etc.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.865-879
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• 1997

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 21, Nt. 5 (1997) p. 865∼879 The purpose of the study is to identify a historical change about the women's underwear and trousers this nation of ours until an ancient times to modern ages. Because the record of the women's trousers exist scarcely anything, the study refers to several documents, for example, the literatures of the Chinese and the Chosun Dynasty, the Koryu's fresco, the Tou of Shinra, the painting of the rock face, the archaeological dresses and genre pictures, and The folkways methods through the residents is used to collect and to arrange of an enlightened age and modern times. Originally, the women's trousers appeared for the nomadism and the hunting in the northern distric and the northeastern provinces. Male and female, old and young wear the trousers which are the clothes native to Korea. The trousers which are originally narrow trousers are influnced by Chinese wide trousers. The trousers at the time of Samsuk hand down until Korea. The Skirt on the trousers is nothing but a courtesy. But gradually, it is distinguished only the trousers, and then, there are exchanged an underwear which not only the protection angainst the cold but also the beautiful. Therefore, the form of skirt is diminished, and the underwear is simplified as the increasing status and the activity of woman in the age of civilization. In a way, the reform trousers and Three-kingdom era trousers appeared and the Dansogok and Sogok disappeared at present. There are confirmed in my investigation of folk customs.

• 복식
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• 제33권
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• pp.73-88
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• 1997

In old Korea from the 4th century of 6th cen-tury the lapels of You and upper garment folded slightly. It had tight sleeves and its length was not long reaching to the hips. but from the 7th century the sleeve of You became wider and its length became longer, Chinese You folded very deeply across the breast and its sleeve was tight. The length of Chinese You was short too strectching out to the hips. From the 5th century the sleeve of the Chinese You became wider Chinese trousers with wide crotch appeared in the 4th century during the time when Ezst Jin Dyn-asty ruled China. The upper garments with the wide sleeve was common by the 7th century in China. What is specially noteworthy is that Short-dalnyung appeared in the 5th ∼6th century. In old Korea strings were used to tie the bottoms of the trousers. Trousers with tight crotch did not need the strins. korean trousers with wide lines were narrower than the Chinese trousers at the bottom and it was not necessary to use the strings for people to put them on In China there were both of wide trousers and tight trousers. People tied trousers around the kness with the strings in the formal places but they did not tied the trousers with the strings when they wore the ordinary clothes. Chinese trousers were very wide just like a skirt and they were much wider than wide Korean trousers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.909-917
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• 2005

Based on the theory that formation of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is related to Mobius strip, this study researches correlation between distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers and historical background based on old documents and restoration. Distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers are as follows. First, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is manufactured just like Principle of Mobius strip that the square is twisted once, considering its materials' conditions. Second, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, manufactured larger, feature cubic effect and twisted formative beauty because its waist and ankle parts are tightened with bands. Third, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, composed of big Sapok and small Sapok in oblique, are suitable for active play due to its high functionality.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.268-285
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• 1989

The purpose of this thesis is to understand the concrete forms of the traditional Chinese trousers and finally to compare the forms and cuts of the Chinese, Japanese and Korean trousers, which shared the same form in the beginning. The literature survey helps to draw the following conclusions: 1. The first trousers of ancient China were adapted from the nomadic people of the North Asia. 2. The ancient Chinese had both forms of trousers consited of(a) I-letter typed crotch line and (b)$\lambda$-letter typed crotch-line. 3. The folk trousers of China consist mainly of $\lambda$-letter typed seamline which is the trouser form shared among some of the North-Eastern Asiatic people. 4. The open trousers are worn over the closed crotch trousers. 5. The open crotch trousers seems to be developed from the leggings of the nomadic people.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.137-148
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• 2010

바지교복의 활성화를 위하여 서울시 여자 중고등학교 학생들의 바지교복 착용현황과 바지교복에 대한 인식을 살펴보았다. 하의교복으로 동복과 하복 모두 '스커트만 착용'이 가장 많았으며, '바지만 착용'은 하복보다 동복에서 높게 나타났다. 스커트를 착용하는 이유는 동복과 하복 모두 '다수의 친구들이 스커트를 입어서'가 가장 많았고, 하복의 경우 '바지교복이 없어서'가 그 다음으로 높게 나타났다. 바지교복은 동복은 '온도변화에 대처할 수 있어서', 하복은 '활동이 편리해서' 주로 입는 것으로 나타났다. 바지교복 착용에 대해서는 대체로 만족하고 있었다. 그러나 바지교복 디자인과 색상에 대해서는 만족하지 못하였으며, '바지통이 좁은 스타일'과 '스트레이트 스타일'의 디자인을 선호하고, 색상은 동복과 하복 모두 검정색, 다음으로 베이지와 청색계열을 선호하였다. 여학생들은 바지교복의 필요성에 대해 전체적으로 낮게 인식하고 있었다. 동복과 하복 모두 바지를 착용하는 집단은 필요성을 높게, 스커트만 착용하는 집단은 낮게 인식하였다. 바지교복은 추위에 견디기 좋으며 활동하기에 편하지만 외모를 돋보이게 하거나 개성을 잘 표현할 수 있지 않다고 인식하였다. 바지를 착용하는 집단은 스커트만 착용하는 집단보다 바지교복이 옷차림에 신경을 떨 쓰게 하고, 방과 후에 입고 다니기 좋다고 하였다. 바지교복에 대한 개선방안으로 디자인과 색상의 개선, 기능성의 증가, 홍보의 필요성 등이 나타났다.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2003

The style of different styles of clothing have been developed by not only the natural environment and social effects. but also by various variables such as the peculiar cultures and religions of different ethnic groups. It is naturally accepted without question that the origin of trousers was derived from the Skytie race in the modern style of dress. And the style of those trousers has changed and developed throughout a long history in different environments and surroundings. As part of the research of the process in this styles of clothing, it is essential to know how the fabric of trousers has been developed and how the styles have been changed because of different weather conditions and different religions. Nowadays, Eurasian countries was scattered from western and eastern Asian countries to middle Asian countries such as Russia, Uzbekistan, Kazakistan, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Iran and China. These countries are located on the way to the Silk Road. They are fully developed in a cultural area among the different religions. In terms of cultural aspects within the different religions, men's trousers had developed the traditional style of this dress as one of the importnat items on the cultural basis. The ranges and types of these traditional trousers are divided by the regions, such as west and southern Asia, central Asia and China. Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Turkey. Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Israel was a part of the west and southern Asian countries which were located between western countries and eastern countries. This tribes wore Shalwar trousers which is a wide style of trousers. Shalwar in the western and eastern Asian region has a specific feature by the each nation but has the same distinctions such as by using very wide and loose style and tying a fine thread around the waist. Some central Asian countries consisted of part of China, Turkmenistan. the Republic of Tajikistan. the Republic of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of Afganistan. These style of trousers are compound types which appeared with mixing Draperian Greek culture. So it can be inferred from this data that the horse-riding nomadic trousers which had been handed down from Skytie tribe through Persia. The style of the trousers in those regions has small pieces. The style of the trousers in China, which is located on the way to the far eastern countries, has developed new trousers put together two pieces of the textile. These widen trousers can be worn by using a sash belt. So we can find out that those trousers of countries which mentioned above have a common point and a rule.

• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.41-57
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• 2010

Yunnan, where twenty-six minor ethnics live, is located in Southwest part of China. They have preserved and developed their folk costume, artcraft, music and dance in their peculiar way with natural and cultural surroundings. So, Yunnan is known as a living folk museum. It's worth examining how climate and circumstances change has affected certain differences of dress shape in same ethnic. Research into costumes of minor ethnics can contribute to the study of origin of the trousers, as this group of people have well succeeded the basic form of trousers through their cultural history and everyday life. This study, at first, investigates geographical surroundings of each minor ethnic group, and figures out the style of all trousers by measuring the each size, then compares design color pattern and fabric. The origin of trousers examined by formative characteristics has been classified and comparatively studied. The study materials are twenty-three trousers selected from in Yunnan Folk Museum as well as other relevant literature records. This study suggests that one can examine the type of human culture through the forms of costume which reflects folk custom geography economy etc. This, in turn, can be used as a basic information for other studies, and in particular, for the study of origin and structure of the trousers.

• 복식
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• 제15권
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• pp.21-45
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• 1990

The purpose of this thesis is to study the method of the reasonable pattern design. The studying method is based on the original principle of the trousers' cutting and I have a hypothesis about the trousers pattern which should be proved. When I selected the practical method, I made use of the international measuring rule, graph paper and tracing paper, in order to prove the new pattern design. The reasonable pattern design should be the one of the suitable original principles to be suited in the design through any measurement. Therefore, I have discussed the above mentioned design. I find out the conclusion to prove the hypothesis of pattern design with the experimental measure after showing the above mentiond design. The characteristics is as follows. First : To be convinient when walking, because of little degree as folding of the front part of trousers with the under-angle. Second : To be suitable in proportion to the length of trousers and the under-angle. Third ; When folding the center line of the Sapok (a name of one of the trousers parts), the length of the Sapoks is same and harmonized with the Sapoks because of the same angle of both Sapoks in any case of the measurement. Fourth : No correction of the lines when dressing, for the same points of the large Sapok and the small one. Fifth : To be easiness of the pattern design through the concrete measurement. I could find out a little extent errors of pattern showings, an easiness of dressing, scientification of formation in Korean trousers and standard of the practical measurement in the program to be presented as the result of studying.