• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.213-225
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• 2024

In this study, norbixin loaded elastic liposomes (NELs) containing norbixin were prepared by changing the ratio (0.25 to 1 mg/mL) of sucrose stearate (SS), a surfactant, to evaluate changes in physical properties, skin permeability, light stability, and antioxidant activity. The average diameter of the NELs ranged from 80.6 to 113.8 nm, with zeta potential from 22.2 to 33.9 mV, deformability from 7.3 to 16.1, and loading efficiency from 40.5 to 58.6%. In the 0.05% norbixin-loaded elastic liposome, the highest loading efficiency, zeta potential, and deformability were observed in 1 mg/mL of SS (NEL-5). Under blue LED (10 W/m²), NEL showed higher photostability and antioxidant activity compared to unencapsulated norbixin. Due to its high stability and encapsulation efficiency, NEL-5 formulation was subsequently used for transdermal permeation. Furthermore, the NEL-5 has been shown to retain more in the stratum corneum of the skin than general liposome and 1,3-butylene glycol solution. These results confirm that the use of SS as a surfactant can stabilize the physicochemical properties of NELs and efficiently deliver active ingredients to the stratum corneum.