Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Physicochemical Characterization of Norbixin Elastic Liposomes and Evaluation of their In Vitro Skin Permeability

노르빅신 탄성 리포좀의 물리화학적 특성 및 시험관 내 피부 투과성 평가

  • Seo Young Lee (Department of Bio-health Engineering, Cosmetic Engineering, College of Science and Convergence Technology, Seoul Women's University) ;
  • Jiwon Jeong (Department of Bio-health Engineering, Cosmetic Engineering, College of Science and Convergence Technology, Seoul Women's University) ;
  • Cho Hee Oh (Department of Bio-health Engineering, Cosmetic Engineering, College of Science and Convergence Technology, Seoul Women's University) ;
  • Chae Hyun Lee (Department of Bio-health Engineering, Cosmetic Engineering, College of Science and Convergence Technology, Seoul Women's University) ;
  • Jungil Hong (Department of Food Science and Technology, College of Science and Convergence Technology, Seoul Women's University) ;
  • Soo Nam Park (Department of Bio-health Engineering, Cosmetic Engineering, College of Science and Convergence Technology, Seoul Women's University)
  • 이서영 (서울여자대학교 과학기술융합대학 바이오헬스공학과 화장품공학전공) ;
  • 정지원 (서울여자대학교 과학기술융합대학 바이오헬스공학과 화장품공학전공) ;
  • 오초희 (서울여자대학교 과학기술융합대학 바이오헬스공학과 화장품공학전공) ;
  • 이채현 (서울여자대학교 과학기술융합대학 바이오헬스공학과 화장품공학전공) ;
  • 홍정일 (서울여자대학교 과학기술융합대학 식품공학과) ;
  • 박수남 (서울여자대학교 과학기술융합대학 바이오헬스공학과 화장품공학전공)
  • Received : 2024.06.13
  • Accepted : 2024.07.26
  • Published : 2024.09.30
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Abstract

In this study, norbixin loaded elastic liposomes (NELs) containing norbixin were prepared by changing the ratio (0.25 to 1 mg/mL) of sucrose stearate (SS), a surfactant, to evaluate changes in physical properties, skin permeability, light stability, and antioxidant activity. The average diameter of the NELs ranged from 80.6 to 113.8 nm, with zeta potential from 22.2 to 33.9 mV, deformability from 7.3 to 16.1, and loading efficiency from 40.5 to 58.6%. In the 0.05% norbixin-loaded elastic liposome, the highest loading efficiency, zeta potential, and deformability were observed in 1 mg/mL of SS (NEL-5). Under blue LED (10 W/m2), NEL showed higher photostability and antioxidant activity compared to unencapsulated norbixin. Due to its high stability and encapsulation efficiency, NEL-5 formulation was subsequently used for transdermal permeation. Furthermore, the NEL-5 has been shown to retain more in the stratum corneum of the skin than general liposome and 1,3-butylene glycol solution. These results confirm that the use of SS as a surfactant can stabilize the physicochemical properties of NELs and efficiently deliver active ingredients to the stratum corneum.

본 연구에서는 계면활성제인 수크로오스스테아릭애씨드(sucrose stearate, SS)의 비율(0.25 ~ 1 mg/mL)을 변화시켜 노르빅신을 함유한 탄성 리포좀(norbixin loaded elastic liposomes, NELs)을 제조하여 물리적 특성, 피부 투과성, 광안정성 및 항산화 활성 변화를 평가하였다. NELs의 평균 직경은 80.6 ~ 113.8 nm, 제타 전위 -22.2 ~ -33.9 mV, 가변형성 7.3 ~ 16.1 및 포집 효율 40.5 ~ 58.6%로 측정되었다. 0.05% 노르빅신이 함유된 NEL은 1 mg/mL의 SS (NEL-5)가 존재할 때 가장 높은 포집 효율, 제타 전위 및 가변형성이 관찰되었으며, 이후 경피 투과에 사용하였다. Blue LED (10 W/m2) 조사 하에서 NEL은 담지되지 않은 노르빅신에 비해 높은 광안정성과 항산화 활성이 측정되었다. NEL-5는 일반 리포좀 및 부틸렌글라이콜 용액보다 피부 각질층에 더 많이 유지되었다. 이러한 결과는 계면활성제로서 SS를 이용하면 NEL의 물리화학적 특성을 안정화시키고 활성 성분의 각질층 전달을 효율적으로 할 수 있음을 확인하였다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

본 연구는 과학기술정보통신부의 재원의 한국연구재단 일반(2021R1F1A105146612) 및 중견연구자(RS-2024-00345102) 지원사업의 지원에 의해 수행되었음.

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