• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.299-320
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• 2024

Traditional culture contributes to the diversification of modern fashion design and the inheritance of local cultural identity. This study aims to identify the characteristics of traditional handicrafts reflected in modern fashion design in India. For this purpose, it focused on Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, and Ritu Kumar, who are currently leading the Indian fashion design field. The methodology involved conducting literature research and analyzing case studies. In the literature, the techniques of Indian traditional crafts such as embroidery, dyeing, and weaving were examined and five design elements of traditional crafts were defined. Through content analysis of 30 images from the three designers' Instagram accounts, the design characteristics of traditional handicrafts expressed in contemporary Indian fashion design were derived: cultural inheritance using traditional Indian clothing items, traditional materials and practices applied to contemporary clothing, craftsmanship that artistically improves complex details using embroidery techniques, various combinations based on the traditional meaning of colors, and narrative expression using patterns containing India's cultural identity. Incorporating these traditional handicrafts into fashion design, closely linked to everyday life, aids in conveying and enhancing their significance. The cases demonstrate the successful integration of conservation into contemporary fashion design. This study sheds light on the application of traditional culture in modern fashion design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.257-264
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• 2010

In the modern Society, the human's way of thinking as well as the new cultural creation has been changing by bringing on a change rapidly. The moderns are demanding humanity and the new cultural cretion through the exchange between the old things and new things by setting material before everything else. The latest trends of today had an effect on the fashion Illustration, a new art category, which gives a new image. This report of research has a purpose which expresses korean images by connecting the korean tradition style to the modern fashion. And we are concerned about the national culture and tradition with the international stream. For this reason I studied these for the purpose of expanding expression area of sewing techniques by applying to fashion Illustration expressing handcraft techniques by natural beauty improving the modern and traditional images, updating, and succeeding to tradition. As the way of studying and contents, I referred to the inside and outside of the country's literatures, these, publications, magazines, or the internet sufing. Firstly, as the theoretical study, I studied a conception and history of the fashion Illustration. I studied the theoretical background of the sewing techniques through the histories, tools, and techniques. The theoretical background of the sewing handicraft is studied through the colors, patterns, materials and sorts. I also and indicated the various works by the domestic designers.

• Archives of design research
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• v.20 no.1 s.69
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• pp.229-242
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• 2007

In Japan, a country renowned for her traditional respect for handicraft, superior craft techniques have been transmitted from generation to generation. Modern Japanese textiles reinterprete these traditional techniques in a new light and combine them with modern technology, to make modern Japanese industrial textile both futuristic and traditional simultaneously. This combining of new technology and handicraft serves as a reservoir for a remarkable diversity and originality in the development of new technology and design, and constitutes an important trend in modern industrial textiles. The aim of this study is to investigate the developmental background of Japanese textile industry that championed this trend to make the Japanese development unique in modern textile industries and to consider the concept of modern textiles as well as the structural innovation as represented by this new trend, thus contributing to the development of creative textiles for the present and the future. The findings of this study can be summarized as follows. The combining of new technology and traditional handicraft: 1) was made possible by Japanese consciousness that values traditional culture and by early recognition of advanced textile industry, which awarded new meaning and value to the traditional handicraft leading to an expanded social role for textiles. 2) helped construct a modern concept of textiles by pursuing textile media that are state-of-the-art, aesthetic, and highly sensitive to satisfy the requirements of modern industrial textile such as high quality, high performance, and high sensitivity. 3) enabled new design ideas and creation of new styles by implementing structural innovation in industrial textiles that involved diversification of expression, diversity in materials, and emphasis on texture. In short, by combining new technology and traditional handicraft, Japan came up with a new sense of aesthetics that is highly original and high level and with which the rest of the world can easily sympathize, thereby presenting one of the most important guiding principles for future textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.76-91
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• 2011

During the era of Joseon Dynasty when the Confucian ideas were prevailing all over the manners of living, most women were usually living separated in the boudoirs, the isolated living quarters exclusively for women, where they used to do much troublesome needleworks for the traditional kerchiefs and embroideries for which they poured out their souls and hand skills. And therefore, nowadays, such works are deemed much valuable for either formative or artistic point of view, and their legitimate cultural designs are receiving much publicity from a number of mass communications as one of the national competitive powers. Thus, I, the researcher for the subject study, have completed 1-year researching lessons on the traditional kerchief and embroidery of Ms. Hyeon-Hee Kim, the Mater-hand, at Korea Traditional Handicrafts Institute of Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation, and then engaged myself in the creative works relevant to the subject by cultivating the power of understanding to such field, restoring the techniques of the traditional handicrafts, reconstructing them into the modern sensual descriptions, and also trying to apply various transformations and modifications to them.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.828-848
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze how modern fashion brands practice cultural sustainability by investigating the ways they use and reinterpret traditional culture and clothing. The transmission and reinterpretation of traditional cultural elements connect the past, present, and future. These forces also lead to the development of new creativity in the fashion industry. Three brands have been selected for case studies: Danha (Korea), Mittan (Japan), and Jan Jan Van Essche (Belgium). These brands possess in-depth understanding of traditional cultural elements, including clothing, dyeing techniques, and patterns unique to various regions and minority groups. The brands all make use of traditional cultural identities whose clothing contains the historical and sentimental values of various regions and ethnic groups. The use and mixing of various cultures can be seen as the respectful preservation of global culture. Also, in contemporary fashion, the use of traditional culture plays an important role in the presentation and development of creative designs. The use of traditional handicraft techniques and the use of traditional clothing in the past convey cultural diversity to future generations; they will have a lasting influence on future fashion trends. The results of the study show that cultural sustainability in contemporary fashion has been implemented through safeguarding and respecting indigenous cultures and developing cultural elements into creative design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.75-86
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• 2004

This study aims at considering and analyzing the stature of denim clothing as an ornament as well ai how aesthetic meaning and human being's mental side indwell in the development of denims. which will be proceeded in the future, from the view of contemporary culture of dressing. It is found that the stylishness expressed through denim clothing is formed on the basis of the cultures of party, drawing and disorganization, and the result of the study was as follows. Firstly, the culture of party became the source of for decoration of denim clothing, and denim clothing more glamorize women as a party-look which makes the most use of its advantage to be comfortable and able to display in various ways with splendid artificial jewelry, patchwork, dyed pattern which is elaborately embroidered. Secondly, Such culture of drawing is applied to denim clothing so that denims are expressed to make people feel more human being's warmth as being free from the existing stereotype and formality. Thirdly, the most outstanding feature of denim clothing showed in the culture of disorganization is to make the most use of vintage style as it is. This reflects an image of the culture of disorganization under postmodernism, which is free from the traditional conception of the existing dressing by destroying the original form, in the way of slashing, making a hole and tearing. That is, people can sufficiently express not only free sense of release based on postmodernism by wearing denim clothing, but also human being's intrinsic desire for restoration of humanism or human warmth with splendid decoration or various techniques such as handicraft. It can be recognized these features as the reasons, that make denim clothing place themselves as an original fashion item, by giving denim clothing technical decoration in recent years.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.803-809
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• 2006

Korean traditional paper 'Hanji' made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree is a good handicraft material because of its high viscosity, durability, dyeability, toughness, flexibility, plasticity, and manipulability. Hanji has been used as a textile material such as cotton wool for protection and keeping us warm from cold weather. However, Hanji has many limitations, while other textile materials have many advantages of such as washability, being sunproof, and fast coloring. The purpose of this study is to review physical properties, formation ability, and dyeability of Hanji as a material of fashion accessary. The contents of this study are composed of 5 parts: 1. To introduce the necessities of this study, 2. To review a historical background of Hanji and to identify its physical characteristics as a fashion accessary material, 3. To review and to compare techniques such as bonding, quilting, knitting, creasing and holding, twisting, folding & braiding, paper pasting, coloring & cutting, and outwashing(?) in making Hanji fashion accessaries, 4. To review dyeing and finishing techniques to increase commercial value, 5. To identify the best fashion accessary materials made of Hanji. The most important characteristics of Hanji as a fashion accessary material are its toughness in a wet state, fast color fixing, and flexibility. Especially weaving and knitting are considered as the most desirable techniques to make fashion accessary products stronger and more practical.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine the types of and figurative characteristics of in women's embroidered handicrafts of Korea. It also aims to revive Korean traditional beauty, to examine the applicability of Korean traditional design that has both modern beauty and practicality, and to develop Korean women's embroidered handicrafts. The types of women's embroidered of Korea include Jumoni (pouches), Bojagi (wrapping cloths), and other accessories made by sewing. Jumoni consisting of 55.51% of them was the most frequently used handicraft followed by Bojagi (8.66%), and other accessories (35.83%). In terms of the patterns used, animal pattern and plant pattern were used the most frequently. In addition, complex patterns using two or three patterns together(70.49) were more frequent than singular patterns (29.53%). Pictorial type of pattern arrangement (58.24%) was used the most frequently and dense type (39.76%) and sparse type (2.00%) were followed. In terms of the materials on which embroidery was used, Dahn (85.82%) was used the most frequently followed by wool (5.67%), cotton (4.26%), silk (3.55%), and Sa (0.70%). Various techniques of stitches were used such as outline stitch (40.56%), satin and running stitch (29.32%), French nut stitch (28.11%), long and short stitch (21.28%), double leaf stitch (20.88%), and so on. Among them, satin stitch (63.05%) was the most popular type of stitch techniques. Strings (23.56%), maedeup (Korean traditional knots, 8.62%), or tassels (9.77%) were also attached for the purpose of both practicality and of decoration. There were some cases that added cloissone or red-pepper shaped decorations.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.45-53
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• 2008

Different method of textile fabrication had existed since the ancient times, but the most dominant form was the 'weaving' method which embodies the cross fabrication of vertical and horizontal threads using special weaving machines (looms). In addition, fabrication methods like knitting, felt, and lace were commonly practiced while intertwinement methods like twisting, braiding, and knotting techniques were frequently used for weaving strings and braid type textiles. In the past, people did not pay attention to strings and braids because they were classified as non-textiles, but, in this paper, we have expanded the scope of definition of textile to include strings and braids, and seek to conduct in-depth research on various different intertwinement of textiles. The adaptation of intertwinement method in arts and crafts enables limitless creative works reflecting the ever-changing taste and style of the creator. This creativity is further broadened by the fact that intertwinement methods encompass no set patterns and the subject and shape of its creation is as broad as its artistic pursuits. We can infer the knowledge of our ancestors, their aesthetic taste, and the pattern of life from these creations. In addition, these creations can provide comfort and improve the quality of life of modem people who are deeply deprived of sentimental and emotional solitude in the technological civilization of the 21stcentury. The main purpose of this paper is to examine traditional Korean arts and crafts made using the intertwinement methodology through the context of strings, braids, straw crafts and knotting method. Then it will conduct through research on the different materials, forms, characteristics, usage and other key notions based on the currently preserved records and relics to contribute to the research on traditional textiles and provide the foundations to the development of the Korean culture and cultural products, reflecting the true sole and aesthetics of traditional Korean textile crafts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.39-47
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• 2008

Korean embroidery is the long historical industrial arts of real life and has handed down Korean sentiment up to now. Korean traditional embroidered pattern is designed to wish someone's health and luck, who uses the embroidery on the clothes and the goods in real life. Especially, the ten longevity symbols' design is represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, cloud, water, crane, rock, turtle, pine tree, the elixir of life and deer; these 10 symbols show how ancient Korean believe and wish perpetual youth. However, fiber material used embroidery relic has difficulty in preserving for long period compared to other relic descended from historical events for long time and their preserved state isn't so good owing to have been used directly in the real life. Therefore, it is essentially embossed to preserve the embroidery relic and pattern, and make DB for the data. With preservation of the pictures about the handicraft, it's necessary to preserve embroidery technique and make DB through digital imagination. Through the process, we can apply Korean embroidery image to cul-duct package and digital image related field, and it will be helpful to make the tradition popular. In this study, through the research for the embroidery technique applied pattern on the embroidery relic of ten longevity symbols, we'll establish the cultural identification of Korean embroidery image and then develop a worldwide Korean image.