• 펄프종이기술
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• 제48권3호
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• pp.80-90
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to investigate the functional properties of natural dyed Hanji for cultural properties conservation and storage. To estimate functional properties of Hanji, antimicrobial, insect repellent test, and Oddy test were executed. Hanji dyed with 10% Golden thread (Coptis chinensis), a natural dye and silver nitrate mordanting showed the most excellent antifungal activities against A. niger, P. chrysogenum, and Trichoderma sp. before and after aging. The insects repellent test followed didn't indicate significant effects on treated Hanji against Lasioderma serricorne, Sitophilus zeamais, and Tribolium castaneum. According to Oddy test result, Hanji dyed with Golden thread and silver nitrate caused no significant corrosions on copper, silver, and lead after aging 28 days.

• 복식
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• 제50권5호
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• pp.131-142
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• 2000

The philological consideration of Korean Buddhist Monk's robe and its reviving have been investigated in traditional way. The configuration and colour of Korean Buddhist monk's robes have been properly adapted for an period, territory, and atmospheric phenomena. In case of Korea, introduced Buddhism from China realize modern robe from under the influence of fusion of Chinese ornament culture and Korean traditional ornament culture. As a result of this modern robe has been consisted of a Buddhist monk's robe and a cope. The modem robes has been significantly affected by industrialization, contrary to ancient time taxed robes as public imposts. At present be familiar in mass production we have a preference for the easier way in making and even color forming. In this paper it is focused on dyeing part, which recognized its important in latest time, at first declined according to appearance of chemical dye, evaluated its convenience in use. That is, it is increased natural dye, people begin with recognition of difference of physical properties for dress dyed with chemical pigment and that with natural pigment. In consequence, I have presented that both making colour of gray using traditional method, and three demolished-color prescribed by Buddhist law. Of course, though it become generally know that dyeing of robes occupied significant part of traditional natural dyeing. But in case of religion, it also is important to know symbolical meaning involved in its colour. Most of Buddhism-believers or even Buddhists who actually be dress in robe are without knowing the meaning of colour, or its revealing method. There, I have considered mating three colour of demolished- color included blue, black, and red, and also represented dyeing method of Buddhist monk's robe using both charcoal and ink-spick. From religious font of view, as robes contains involving of blessing, I have an intention of improvement way in dyeing and succession and development of traditional culture through consideration of traditional dyeing method. And I have also intended to restoration the value of robe's colour, disappeared by the time. moreover, I have shown that dyeing with natural pigment is profitable for both environment and sanitary aspect.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.83-94
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• 2005

This paper is to analyze patterns for Indonesian traditional textiles. Ikat is the resist-dyeing process in which designs are reserved in warp or weft yams by tying off small bundles of threads with fiber resists to prevent the penetration of dye. Batik is the technique applying a wax resist before dyeing to form a pattern in negative. Ikat and batik are the most renowned textile arts of Indonesia. Patterns are classified as geometric pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern. Also this paper discusses the origins of ikat and batik. Therefore this Paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of ikat and batik patterns. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive pattern design for Indonesian textile market.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.525-531
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• 2018

본 연구는 우리나라 대표적인 전통 천연염색 기술인 풋감 염색의 단점인 뻣뻣한 촉감을 개선하고 천연자원을 효율적으로 활용하기 위하여 갈조류 감태와의 이성분 복합염료를 제조하여 염색성을 타진하고자 하였다. 풋감과 감태로 각 단일염료를 제조하고 단일염료 간의 혼합 비율을 달리한 동시 일욕염색을 실시한 결과, 전통 풋감 염색직물과의 색채의 차이가 허용 가능하고 염색 직물의 강연성이 가장 낮아져서 촉감의 개선이 기대되는 최적의 감태 혼합비율은 6%로 판단하였다. 이 혼합 비율로 풋감과 감태의 단일 염료를 혼합하여 열수추출과 필터링을 거쳐 동결건조시킨 이성분 복합염료를 제조하여, 염료의 입자 크기가 각 단일염료보다 미세하며, 풋감의 기능성 성분인 카테킨 함량이 유지됨을 확인하였다. 또한 이성분 복합염료로 염색한 면직물은 일욕염색 직물보다 전통 풋감 단일염색 직물과의 색차가 더 적어서 전통 풋감 염색과 시각적으로 차이가 없었으며, 강연성이 더 낮아져서 뻣뻣한 촉감이 완화되는 것으로 사료되었다. 따라서 풋감/감태의 이성분 복합염료는 풋감을 이용한 전통 천연염색 제품의 촉감을 개선할 뿐 아니라, 천연자원을 효율적으로 활용하는 데에 도움이 될 것으로 기대된다.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제47권6호
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• pp.139-146
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• 2015

We manufactured natural dyed Korean traditional paper (Hanji) for cultural properties conservation and storage with goldthread (Coptis chinensis) and silver nitrate ($AgNO_3$). Goldthread and silver nitrate are known to be an excellent antimicrobial activity. The effect of content of goldthread and silver nitrate on properties of dyed Hanji was investigated. Color strength of dyed Hanji decreased with increasing content of silver nitrate. After-mordanting with 3% silver nitrate improved lightfastness of dyed Hanji. Tannic acid treatment increased K/S value of dyed Hanji. As the amount of the increase in goldthread content was reduced silver nitrate content. Sim-mordanting method was used for simplifying manufacture process. Silver nitrate sim-mordanting method increased K/S value of goldthread than after-mordanting method.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제48권3호
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• pp.57-65
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• 2016

Indigo (Polygonum tinctorium L.) is a typical blue dye which had been used from ancient times. This study was going to shade the complicated traditional methods extracting indigo dye by the fermentation and producing as adsorbate on calcium hydroxide, which says so called as the 'Indigo lime'. Accordingly we were going to make indigo through the hydrolysis of the hot water extractives of indigo leaves simply. During hot-water extraction, ${\beta}$-glucosidase which required hydrolysis of the linkage between indigo and glucose was not activated. To achieve this goal, indican was acid-hydrolyzed to glucose and indigo. The acetic acid, citric acid, hydrochloric acid, and sulfuric acid were used for the hydrolysis of hot water extractives. The hydrolysis conditions of extractives performed in water bath at $80^{\circ}C$ for 120 minutes and in an autoclave for 120 minutes. In the acid hydrolysis of extracted indican by hot water, the indican yields of acetic acid and hydrochloric acid hydrolysis were higher than sulfuric acid in water bath. Also, the indican yield of hydrochloric acid hydrolysis was better than sulfuric acid in autoclave. The hot water extracted indican was confirmed by HPLC analysis and its structure was confirmed by UV-Vis and FT-IR spectroscopy, compared with isolated indigo and commercial synthesized indigo. This improved extraction and hydrolysis methods can be replace the traditional indigo making method.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.40-46
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to estimate natural dyeing properties of Korean traditional paper (Hanji). We dyed the Korean traditional paper with dyestuff which extracted from wood meal of Cotinus coggygria Scop (smoke tree) using hot-water, ethanol and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution. As mordants, 0.5% of $AlK(SO_4)_2$, $FeCl_2$, and $CuCH_3(COO)_2$ solution were used respectively. The color of dyed Hanji mainly depended on not the methods of extraction but the kinds of mordant. The dyed Hanji mordant with $AlK(SO_4)_2$ colored vivid yellow, $FeCl_2$ colored dark olive, and $CuCH_3(COO)_2$ colored brown and/or orange. The dyed Hanji with hot-water extractive had the highest K/S value and ethanol and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution extractives were followed. The K/S value of dyed Hanji mordant with $AlK(SO_4)_2$ was higher than that of $FeCl_2$ and $CuCH_3(COO)_2$. The dyeing effectiveness of after-mordanting method was superior to the others but sim-mordanting method was the worst.

• 한국펄프종이공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국펄프종이공학회 2011년도 추계학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.345-357
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• 2011

Recently increasing eco-efficiency of natural dyeing has become an important topic. The purpose of this study was to manufacture colored Wall paper for interior materials by combining color therapy and natural dyeing. For this purpose, through experiments with water-bleed, K/S value and chroma changes of samples in Wall paper for interior materials.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.34-39
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• 2009

The traditional Korean hand-made papers (Hanji) were dyed with colorant extracted from flowers of Sophora japonica L.(pagoda tree), and the effect of various dyeing factors (mordant, mordanting method, pH of dyeing solution, etc.) on colors and K/S values of the dyed Hanji was investigated. Changing mordant affected the color of dyed Hanji. Mordanting with alum, copper acetate made the color of dyed Hanji more yellow, but dyed Hanji mordanted with $FeCl_2$ had dark olive color. The K/S value of the dyed Hanji mainly depended on the pH of the dyeing solution and mordanting method. It was found that sim-mordanting with alum was timesaving and effective dyeing method. The dyed Hanji sim-mordanted with alum had the highest K/S value at low pH (about 4).

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.1-4
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• 2010

The hand printed cottons of India are historically world-renowned for their rich fast colours, elaborate designs, and matchless quality. Until the discovery of synthetic dyestuffs in the latter part of the nineteenth century, the unsurpassed master dyers of cotton were the craftsmen of India-birthplace of cultivated cotton. The Indian printers and dyers monopolised this arcane art of permeating cotton cloth with richly hued, colour-fast designs, and the fruits of their labour proved hugely influential in international trade and the development of modern textile technologies. This paper focuses on a lesser-known body of hand printed cottons, traditionally produced in rural Rajasthan for everyday use by the local pastoral communities. Drawing on extensive research carried out with the region's Chhipa community of hereditary cloth printers, the complex and multiple applications of mordant, dye and resist are illustrated. Often taking months to complete, the enduring popularity of these labour-intensive hand printed cottons is then discussed, particularly in the light of the hugesocial importance borne by cloth in Rajasthan. Cloth and clothing are widely recognised as indicators of social status, gender, rank, and individual and group affiliations. In addition, cloth and clothing have been established as indicators of social, economic, political and technological change. The paper concludes by drawing attention to the recent influx of machine-printed polyester textiles, often replicating the designs or colours of the traditional locally produced cottons. Thus women of the region, whilst using these modern synthetic textiles as part of newer ways of expressing their identity, also visibly retain the values associated with hand printed cottons and traditional dress codes.