• 복식
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.131-149
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• 2014

Tibetans are one of the ethnic Chinese minorities, and this research examined the characteristics and features of their traditional costumes by investigating their historical, geographical and cultural background. This research also examined the cultural elements according to their characteristics based on Tibet's nature, religion, arts culture such as the Jang-po, Chin-sam, Kam-kjun and belts, which are used to fix the costumes. Based on such studies the traditional Tibetan costumes were set as a motif and were expressed appropriately into a contemporary style. By studying the composition of its costumes and its costume culture, the characteristics of the Tibetan costumes could be classified into four features. First, the 'variability of form' expresses a new type depending on how it is worn. Second, the 'color contrast' shows a strong visual contrast. Third, the 'difference of materials' combines different materials into one. Fourth, the 'symbolic meaning' grants meaning to the wearer. As a result of this study, by using the characteristics of the Tibetan nature culture, religion culture and art culture as a basis, two suits of clothes for each characteristics and six suits of clothes were produced as a fashion design product.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.941-955
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• 2003

In this study, the researcher investigated how tailored garment were accepted and developed in India where the traditional costumes, such as Sari and Dhothi, excluding the tailored process, were mainly worn. It is suspected that pants and coats were first introduced during the Kushan Dynasty but they scarcely influenced on the costumes of India. In the 7th Century when Islam made its entrance in India, pants and coats were not accepted in India due to the exclusive attitudes of Indians, Hindu. Pants and coats were worn locally as Indian costumes through the Islamic Mughul Empire in the 16th Century. During that period, the cultural exchange between Islam and Hindu made the change of the clothes of India reflected the mixing of Islamic and Hindu elements. The colonization of India by Great Britain that was the turning point for diverse kinds of tailored garment in the costume history of India inasmuch as western elements were introduced. The western style tailored method and design changed the appearance of Indian pants into slimmer style. The style spread and influenced on the design of indian clothes greatly; hence, western style shirts and coats were accepted in India.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.110-128
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of Chinese shadow puppetry costumes. Literature study and case analysis were conducted using books, research papers, and materials from the Xi'an shadow puppetry museum. Based on the Chinese traditional costumes, the shape characteristics are utilized with the intaglio and embossing techniques, and the complex and unnecessary details are omitted to express the costume image in a characteristic and simple manner. Second, colour was used according to the traditional Chinese symbolic colour concept, and the brighter the colour, the higher the role's status. The colour was also used to express identity and character. In addition, relatively vivid and highly saturated colours were used for the transparent effect of the shadow puppetry. Third, a role's status is indicated by the density and completeness of the patterns; the higher the role's status, the more complex and sophisticated the patterns, and the lower the status, the simpler the patterns or no patterns are used. Fourth, the faith for blessing expressed in the shadow puppetry is a representative folk auspicious culture. The repertoire of the shadow puppetry and the patterns on the costumes worn by the puppets, express the culture in an implicit way to symbolize the meaning of auspicious things.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.347-354
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• 2014

'Heongbu and Nolbu 1' is a series of the on-line game 'Tales Runner.' It is based on a traditional Korean fairy tale. However, the game characters in Heongbu and Nolbu 1 wear casual clothes even though the game is set in the Joseon Dynasty. Therefore, this paper presents proposed game characters clothes based on traditional Korean costumes from the Joseon Dynasty. This work should help inspire gamers and game designers with the beauty of Korean traditional costumes and familiarize them with an aspect of Korean people's identity. A literature review of online games and game characters was carried out, and game characters' clothes were analyzed. The design motifs of historical relics of the Joseon era were evaluated. Three styles, one traditional and two "fusion" styles integrating traditional and modern elements were proposed for each of the 4 characters: Chowon, Ruff, Bada and Abell. The chulrik and jurip were used as design motifs for Chowon. A traditional chulrik, short chulriks and pants are suggested. Second, the dongari and jeonrip were used as design motifs for Ruff. A traditional dongdari, sapok pants, deck pants and a vest are suggested. Third, the jeogori and chima were used as design motifs for Bada. A traditional female hanbok, arm warmers, short-sleeved jeogori and dress are suggested. Fourth, the dang-ui and daeran-chima were used as design motifs for Abell. A traditional dang-ui and daeran-chima, blouse, skirt, jumper and tight Bermuda shorts are suggested. The length, shape and color were converted into new styles, but some traditional elements such as the git and goreum were retained.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.119-126
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• 1999

The cultural art would be the most competitive commercial value in the 21st century. This research is about the stage costumes of the opera 'Ch'un Hyang Jeon'which is designed and made to fit modern times and the purpose is to set the opera 'Ch'un Hyang Jeon'as groundwork for the future opera of Korea. To extend the stage costumes of the Korea opera : First, We have to inform the world about our traditional costumes and design them to express our culture. Second, Not only the costumes but also the technical aspect such as stage music, setting, and lighting and the artistic aspect should be balanced in development. Third, We need a good training system for future designers of the stage costumes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.1836-1843
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• 2010

This research examines the possibilities of a traditional costume revival and digital exhibition as well as the application of 3D virtual clothing modeling data in order to preserve and record a disappearing costume heritage to realize it as a social education tool through the newly emerging technology of 3D virtual clothing. A 3D revival of costumes worn by royal families and aristocrats was accomplished through the 3D animation and simulation technology of Maya 2011 (Autodesk, Inc.) and Qualoth (FX Gear, Inc.). The simulation shows the possibility of a 3D revival and digital exhibition of costume heritage. However, further technology support to analyze and realize the composition and design is still necessary to develop the digital contents of traditional garment culture that includes skirt pleats, petticoat silhouettes, that exaggerates the skirts and knots of traditional upper garments (Jeogori). Further studies on design attributes of historic costumes and the upgrading of 3D simulation software are required to realize 3D virtual clothing. Korean traditional costumes will be revived as a cultural content in the digital era as a result of outstanding issues detected by this study.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.167-179
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• 1998

The objective of this study is to examine the costumes of the period covered in the writings of Shilhak (practical science) scholars and to research the history of costumes and their characteristics by examining how they are worn in genre paintings which are said to describe the actual life of the period. This should be studied in order to correctly establish the history of costumes. To begin with, through the writings of the representative Shilhak scholars who are thought to have affected the changes in ordinary costumes for woman, this study examined how ordinary woman of the period looked in their costumes and how they regarded various costumes they had. Then, how their viewpoints of costumes influenced ordinary costumes was investigated. Not only relics, but what was commonly worn, as they appeared in the genre paintings that contain information about daily living of that period, were researched chronologically. The results of this study showed that the change in ordinary costumes for woman in the late Chosun period was affected by Shilhak scholars who had ideologies of Shilsakusi (use of positive methods in studying), Yiyonghusaeng (the promotion of commerce and industry and the development of techonologies), and Ky ngsech'iyong (pursuit of stability in a rural economy). Moreover, after those changes there were many more changes. However, the criticism of costumes of that time and the will of revolution affected some time, costumes changed directly. The forms of the costumes had been changed in a variety of ways following the tendencies of the times, but the origin of today's hanbok (Korean traditional dress) had already been fixed in the late Choson period. Yet, today's hanbok are for special occasions, not worn as ordinary clothing. Thus, there are several reasons why the hanbok is not suitable for daily life. One of the reasons is that Korean could not cope with the western costumes indepen-dently imported during Japanese occupation in the last period of the Choson Dynasty and con-tinuing the Japanese Colony. Thus, only a part of the ordinary costume of the late Choson period has remained until now.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.185-205
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• 2015

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yi tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ pattern have a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse, splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yi tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and patterns through related books, research papers and inter web sites. As for the result, the Yi tribe's costumes consisted of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the favorite color of the costume is black color, there are splendid embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ decorations with the colors of red, yellow, green and purple on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs or a part of a trousers and aprons. Patterns in their traditional clothing also show details that depict traditional cultural ideas that have long been formed in various fields, such as aesthetics, religion, philosophy, and customs. Moreover, most patterns displayed in their traditional clothing contain nature motifs and represent unique and beautiful designs; some patterns are even reminiscent of abstract paintings by modern artists. In conclusion, the traditional patterns of Chinese ethnic minorities reflect the values and notions of these races as well as decorative magnificence and a unique spiritual image. In other words, traditional patterns indicate the spiritual depth or symbolic stories beyond mere formative beauty.

• 복식
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• 제50권3호
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• pp.13-30
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyzed the types of Deformation dipicted on the late 1990s western costumes. The late 20th century cultural experience or lifestyle is interpreted with 'popular culture' ,popular culture is described as cultural phenomenon in postmodern condition. Contemporary popular culture may no longer be strictly 'working-class' as the idealistic purists of political formalism would like to , but does emerge from subordinate cultures, from the inventive edges of the consensus, and from the previously ignored and suppressed. It gestured through a widening democratization of styles, sounds and images, to an important remarking , to new possibilities , new perpectives, new projects. The growing importance of popular culture as a source for change of expression in the art, expecially new desire and will of artists has been caused lots of ' Deformation' in their works. Deformation, doesn't mean to represent object faithfully as it were seen through the artist's eyes. In a sense it implies that artists deform it with conscious or unconscious form. So in this study , the phenomenon of the postmodern western costumes is to describe ' formative language' called 'Deformation.' and it is classified three types, that is, 'Deformation of human-body image.' , Deformation of silhouette.' 'Deformation of detail.'. First , Deformation of human-body image is represented by deconstructive , subversive image in western costumes, a lot of costumes types of deconstruction have been shown by fashion designers are emphasized empathy with Deformation of human-body image. Second, Deformation of silhouette is also represented subversion of traditional manner and ultiity, underwear and outwear structure and ugly image. parody image of postumodernism , and so on. Above all, the late 1990s western costumes with Deformation of silhouette was an infinitely larger and more complex world than it appeared from outside and has expressed as a rejection against the values which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued, And parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about parodox, irony, contempt, satire , unexpectedness by applying the original to inapproporate subject through its substition, inversion. Third, Deformation of detail is represented overdecoration, exaggerative distortion of for , overlapping and fetish image, parody image, kitsch image, and so on , Once fetish achieve a certain' style factor' among trendsettler, they are picked up by internationally famous fashion designers, The characteristics of kitsch are overdecoration , unfitness , imitation , used western costumes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2014

The costumes (including mask) of the first World Master series of The National Changguk Company of Korea, Achim Freyer's 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' is directly designed by Achim Freyer who was in charge of direction and stage design. The new form called Pansori opera is proposed for modernization of Korean traditional opera, it maintained the original form of music yet introduced play form of opera. The costumes and stage also promoted modernistic transformation while maintaining the original Korean form. The overall concept of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king' costumes emphasizes comical effect by abstractness like childlike scribble. It expressed characteristic of characters diversely through exaggeration and expansion while maintaining original form of Hanbok, used surface of costumes as a drawing board, and created flat and geometrically transformed silhouette. The complicated characters was caricatured like everyone is doing mask play by using masks, and it still maintained sophisticated oriental color with modern application of five cardinal colors. It may seems it just mixed our traditional elements like a hint of humor, however, it could be known that it introduced various techniques in it to deliver new subject while maintaining the original form of 'Mr. Rabbit & Dragon king'. From this study, open mind for our tradition and need for diverse attempt could be rediscovered and could also see the possibility to contribute on creating a Nation Brand of traditional performing art.