• 복식
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.39-52
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• 2004

The purpose of this comparative study what is the way to express difference fashion design between Japanese fashion designers and Western fashion designers in the 1990s. The design data were 422 pictures of contemporary fashion designs which represented the Japanism style design from fashion collections and analyzed by literature study and classification categories. The results were as follows : 1) Early general Japanism expression was directly borrowed from traditional fashion design elements and has changed indirectly with fashion trend. 2) Japanese fashion designers have used color, fabric, and pattern than shape to express Japanese traditional images. 3) Western fashion designers have directly borrowed aesthetic elements of Kimono design, that is, layering. bending, neck-line, sleeve, and traditional Japanese men's wear to express Japanism.

• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.109-132
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• 1999

The purpose of this research is to get basic data for R&D to activate and popularize the Practical Korean Costume. This research was carried out by theoretical study with literature and practical study with development of model based on the result of questionnaire. 1. In theoretical study the concept of 'Korean-image' of modern costume as well as 'Modernization' of Korean traditional costume has been suggested and 'traditional beauty of costume' which can be evaluated generally was considered. 2. In practical study the results of the questionnaire showed the objective numerical value of the element of Korean design which is firmly recognized by korean people. With the results the methods of development and composition of design have been suggested in the harmony of 'traditional' and 'modern' through the modernization in terms of form composition fabric color. It is expected that development direction of Practical Korean Costume which can be settled in everyday life with more independent cultural identity should be suggested. Additionally the research results will be useful for merchandise planning of costume industry.

• 복식
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• 제58권4호
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• pp.35-46
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to closely examine the history of glasses and their cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty and identify inherent quality of our traditional glasses cases through color analyses of glasses cases' material and shape. While theoretical examination was conducted based on the literatures of glasses and their cases that firstly appeared in around Japanese Invasion (Imjin war) of Korea in 1592, practical analyses were demonstrated on photos of glasses cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty collected from both museum pieces and the internet which were grouped into wood, fabric, paper, sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn in accordance with their materials. 623 color samples were abstracted from collected 159 glasses cases and quantity analyses on each material were performed respectively. Abstracted representative colors based on the result of color analyses were classified into the main materials and accessories' color scheme. The result of this study are as follow: firstly, both Yellow and Yellow Red were mostly used in main materials. In Fabric case's colors were widely used in embroidery and in animal matter material cases such as sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn, which can be used as itself or dyed, Green Yellow shown in high frequency. Secondly, accessories were analyzed into similarity coloration with main materials. From this finding, it turns out that our traditional cases have characteristic of similarity coloration between main materials and accessories. Red Purple and Purple Blue in high frequency in accessories used as an accent color. Finally, based on the analysis of hue and tone, while the middle and low value colors shown in very high frequency, the high-chroma colors hardly shown.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.27-36
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• 2001

본 논문은 전통문화의 현대화, 대중화 차원에서 담양지역의 죽세공예 및 죽세산업에 대해서 소비자 및 생산업체를 대상으로 설문조사 하였으며, 특정 죽세품인 대발을 가지고 다양한 소재, 기법, 디자인을 적용하여 샘플실험 및 작품을 제작하였다. 소비자 대상의 설문조사는 새로운 디자인 개발에 의한 다양한 용도의 제품개발에 대한 매우 높은 선호도 및 구매의사를 보여 향후 신제품 개발 및 디자인 개선의 필요성을 시사하고 있다. 생산업체 또한 새로운 디자인 적용에 의한 신제품개발에 관심이 높으며 전문기관의 디자인 지원을 가장 바라고있었다. 대발개발을 위한 실험조사 결과는 새로운 섬유재료, 천연염색, 현대적 디자인의 조합을 통해 오늘날의 소비자에 소구할 수 있는 제품개발 가능성을 발견하였다. 본 연구는 전통문화의 재창조를 위한 하나의 좋은 사례가 될 것으로 생각되며, 전문기관과 생산업체 간의 산학협동을 통해 전통문화의 제품화·상용화를 기할 수 있다는 점을 제안했다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.145-152
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out the traditional decoration techniques in the Korean costume. Both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and investigated the traditional decoration techniques used in the related literatures and museum catalogues. The results were as follows. The broad and back stitching are fundamental stitching, which used to Nubi and Keki. Top stitching applied broadly to the Korean costume, for example, Jergori, Wonsam, Jeonbok, Beosun, Bojagj and so on. The expression techniques for top stitching were one, two or three stitches. When the top stitching was used as colorful stitches, they were more decorative. The Zatmulim was used for the decorative effect on the seam line because it was triangular shaped and became more effective by changing the rotor and size. Sunmulim was used on the narrow line such as the seam lines of Gergori and Chima. The bakchi decoration was imitating a bat shape, had a meaning of bringing the goodness and gave the tiny and elaborated image. It was used to the neckline of Geogori, seam line of Chima, Pungcha Bazi and so on. Sattgi was used to attaching the bottom of two stiff fabrics adopting for Beosun, Ayam and Norigae. When it used colorful strings, the more decorative effect was added. The knot for button used the fabric instead of buttons and applied to the Cheonlik, Gergori. The aesthetic values of the traditional decoration techniques in the costume were both natural beauty and practicality with creativity.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제11권
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• pp.61-72
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• 2010

본 고는 우리나라 황색계 염재인 울금, 황벽, 황련, 치자, 괴화로 염색한 직물편에 대한 비파괴 자외-가시광 분광 분석 및 3차원 형광 분광 분석 내용이다. 직물이나 매염제 종류에 따라서 각 염재의 분석결과에 영향을 주는지 여부를 확인하기 위하여 직물 2종류(견과 면)와 매염방법 3가지(무매염, 백반, 철)로 염색한 직물시편을 제작하였다. 이 염색 직물편에 대한 자외-가시 분광반사 스펙트럼 측정 결과, 울금, 황벽, 황련으로 염색한 경우 직물의 종류에 관계없이 무매염과 백반매염한 시편의 결과가 유사한 반면 철매염한 시편에서는 차이를 보였다. 또한 치자로 염색한 경우 직물의 종류에 따라 다른 결과를 보였으나 매염제에는 영향을 받지 않았다. 반면에 괴화로 염색한 경우 직물의 종류에 관계없이 매염제에 따른 차이를 보였다. 3차원 형광 스펙트럼 측정 결과 울금, 황벽, 황련으로 염색한 직물편은 직물과 매염제에 관계없이 고유한 형광 스펙트럼으로 나타났으나 치자의 경우 직물의 종류에 따라 차이를 보인 반면 괴화의 경우는 직물의 종류에는 관계가 없었으나 매염제에 따른 차이를 보였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.946-955
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume for developing 'Korean' fashion design can be accepted in general in the modern times. For this purpose, documentary studies about the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art and Korean traditional costume were preceded. And the perception of the Korean traditional costume were studied according to Belong's two criteria, body priority/ clothes priority and open/closed. Next, the aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume were re-defined. The results can be summarized as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional art are the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. As the beauty of nature is the important one, the purity is caused by the love of nature. The pleasantry is as a way of expression. 2) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume through the documentary studies stand for as the beauty of nature, the purity, the beauty of evil's eye, the beauty of symbolism, the beauty of personality, the beauty of tragedy and the beauty of tradition. 3) Korean traditional costume are perceived as clothes priority and open. 4) The aesthetic values of the Korean traditional costume can be re-defined as the beauty of nature, the purity, and the pleasantry. The beauty of nature comes from the 'natural' look, the exposure of the fabric as itself and the organic lines of the Korean traditional costume. The purity comes from the geometrical squared clothing form of Korean traditional costume which doesn't revive the human body form. The Pleasantry is seen the colors and motifs of costumes that have the human's hope and incantation and the exaggeration and distortion of human body form.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.79-90
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• 2000

On the beginning of 21C, in which it is a facing problem that the expansive image of future in fashion should be proposed from the comprehensive analysis for the fashion trend. Therefore, in this study, the trends of capricious fashion are distinctly quantified by investigating the cue of fashion in each styles. Also, the systematic evaluation is carried out of analyzing photographs to which the four important fashion styles. In particular, this study takes the practical and numerical results through quantitative analysis by statistical treatment as well as through qualitative analysis that has been formerly used in the other studies. The purposes of this study are to examine fashion trends expressed in important styles in the 1990s, and to formulate productive fashion of the future. In the qualitative analysis, the four important fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportive-casual and techos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s A/W. It takes frequency, percentage, $x^2$-test and etc, by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the A/W fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. The results of this study are summarized as follows: (1) In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. (2) 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special make-up. (3) 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. (4) 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.147-153
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• 2021

Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.