• 건축역사연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.143-157
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• 2005

This study aims to analyze functions and characteristics of 'Cha-il(遮日)' which was used at ritual events(宮中儀禮行事) in the Joseon dynasty, Joseon dynasty had many ritual events related with O-Rae(五禮). Cha-il was almost used at important ritual events, especially at the congratulatory events. The congratulatory events(宮中宴享) are the representative events were held with many temporary install facilities(假設施設) in a palace. Cha-il was a kind of Korean traditional membrane structures. Cha-il was set up for cutting off interior space from sunlight and rain. In general, Cha-il was Consisted of Cha-il-jang(遮日帳:woven fabric), Cha-il-jook(遮日竹:bamboo column), some ropes, and fixing wares. In the congratulatory events, three types of Cha-il. were set up. Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il(白木大遮日)was made of cotton cloth. Yu-Dun-Cha-Il(油芚遮日) was made of oiled paper or oiled cotton cloth. Man-Joen-Cha-Il(滿箭遮日) consisted of wooden structure. Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il(白木大遮日)was set up on the most important area of stage for protecting from sunlight. Yu-Dun-Cha-Il was set up on less important area of stage for protecting from sunlight and rain. Man-Joen-Cha-Il was set up below Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il for supporting and draining raindrops off. The results of this study were as follows; Functions of Cha-il were to protect ritually space from sunlight and rain, and to extend ritually space, and to reconstruct ritually space. Cha-il was the peculiar temporary install facility which differed from other countries.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.115-125
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• 2006

The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.213-223
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• 2000

현대산업의 주 구성요소인 컴퓨터 자동화는 섬유디자인 분야에 커다란 변화를 가져왔다. 패턴을 디자인할 때 수작업에만 의존해 왔던 디자이너들은 디자인과 색채의 다양성과 제작시간의 단축하기 위해 CAD를 디자인 도구로 하여 패턴을 창조하고 그것을 구매자에게 프리젠테이션하는 등 컴퓨터 활용이 보편화되고 있다. 당초무늬는 어느 특정식물을 소재로 패턴화 시킨 것이 아니라 이집트에서 발견된 인동문을 모체로 하여 발전된 공상적인 식물덩굴무늬로서 세계적인 무늬이다. 당초무늬는 줄기를 기준으로 꽃이나 잎이 서로 얽히어 연결됨으로서 아름답고 유연한 선을 나타내고 있으며 이 같은 선은 단순하면서도 장식적인 요소가 잘 표현되어 있다. 한국에서 당초문양은 장수와 다남을 상징하는 상서로운 문양이기 때문에 예로부터 우리 조상들이 즐겨 사용했으며 생활 속에 깊숙이 자리잡고 있다. 본 연구는 당초문양을 패턴의 모티브로 하여 CAD를 이용하여 패턴 디자인함으로써 디자인 개발의 다양성을 제시하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권9_10호
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• pp.1485-1493
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• 2006

This study was to investigate the effect of different scouring methods on mechanical properties and appearance of lyocell. Two different scouring methods were adopted for the study; one was the traditional scouring with alkali and the other was enzymatic scouring. Enzymatic scouring was carried with four different enzymes; C1 : Cellusoft L, C2 : Cellusoft UL, D1 : Denimax 992L, D2 : Denimax Acid XCL. The mechanical properties of scoured lyocell were measured using KES-FB. The appearance of scoured samples was analyzed by 3D CAD SYSTEM of i-Designer. While the untreated fabric showed the best linearity because it is stiff, alkali treated samples showed the worst dimensional stability and distorted easily. Enzyme treated samples, especially C1 treated samples showed the best dimensional stability. In addition, enzyme treated samples showed low bending rigidity compared to the alkali treated samples. It means that the enzyme treated samples are more flexible than alkali treated samples. However, the smoothness of the sample's surface treated by either of methods did not show much difference. From the study, it was suggested that the enzymatic scouring for lyocell could help to gain natural silhouette.

• 정보처리학회논문지B
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• 제11B권6호
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• pp.683-690
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• 2004

3차원 의상 모델링과 시뮬레이션은. 디지털 콘텐츠에서 중요한 요소가 되었다. 이를 위한 여러 도구들이 개발되었으나, 고유한 의복을 표현하는 가상 의상의 디자인은 그래픽 디자이너에게 어려운 작업이며 의상에 대한 전문지식을 필요로 한다. 특히, 한복의 경우는 옷감, 재단방식, 착용법 등에서 양복과는 구성학적 차이점을 지니므로 모델링이 더욱 어렵다. 본 연구에서는 한복 제작에 대한 전문성이 없이도 한복을 쉽게 모델링 할 수 있도록 하는 지식 기반 접근법을 제안한다. 특히, 실사 및 가상 옷감의 시각적 유사성 판단 방법에 의해 옷감 소재 특성 규칙베이스를 구축하고, 신체 특성이 다른 캐릭터들의 체형 특성을 반영한 한복 사이즈의 부분별 다단계 조정 방법을 지식베이스 화하였다. 제안된 지식 기반 모델링 방법은 마야의 플러그-인으로서 제작되었고 다양한 신체형에 대한 드레이핑(착용 시뮬레이션) 실험을 통해 적용 가능성을 보였다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.467-475
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to examine the sewing construction of a double robe, the difference between the single and double robe, and the size and construction method of the double robe through a close analysis of a replica to facilitate a better understanding of the robe making in late Chosun dynasty. The results were as follows: 1. There was no significant difference in the design and sewing method between the girl's robe and an adult's even though the girl's robe was much smaller. 2. The girl's robe differed from its modern counterparts in some respects: unlike modem robes, Chungyun's robe consisted of two-layers in which the four layers were sewn together and it could be seen most clearly in the way the collar was stitched only onto the outer layer. The two layers seemed to be put on successively since they were not sewn together. The inner collars of the two robes were sewn together when the maker put on a coat string to the outer robe, and the two robes were put together with hemming and blind stitch at the top of the outer collars to make the robe formally stable, which clearly distinguished the princess' robe from a single, for example, four-layered robe. The robe was constructed using traditional sewing methods including broad stitch, back stitch, hemming, and blind stitch, and each stitch was only about 1 mm wide. 3. The maker of the robe managed to construct a formally stable and aesthetically satisfactory robe with the least amount of fabric and proper sewing methods.

• 한국조경학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.143-154
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• 2005

The Seoul Housing Corporation pronounced a design competition for Eunpyeng New Town District 2 in March of 2005. The authors collaborated on this design and won rot prize. Design guidelines of this competition were to make environmentally sustainable design, to develop as a resort site and cultural place for everyday life of residents, to link with green fabric of the district, and to elevate positive image and identity of Eunpyeng New Town district by creating a attractive landscape. The authors developed design concept and strategy within the guidelines and site conditions. The environmental setting of this site was characterized by mountain to the rear of the site with a stream passing through the district and the front of the site. This is the most important condition for the location principle of residence in Fung Shui theory. Therefore, the schema of the design was introduced by Fung Shui and Chi of place. To evolve design concept, we reinterpret the Fung Shui and Chi in the site combining with modem landscape design strategy, so that good place making could bring about well-being life of residents. By doing that, design concept of the proposal evolved as follows: 'fullness of comfortable life', 'adaptation of nature', 'inspiration of natural force'. This design approach is critical reevaluation of regional characters employing modem strategy. It is a conscious strategy of critical regionalism as distinguished from the traditional site oriented approach. The following are some of the major features in the design: green network and water recycle system in the site, promenade of forest with the experience nature, link to community core, theme gardens with plants having strong fragrances, terrace gardens with different level of housing type, playgrounds and resting places with many types, human scale facilities for residents.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.45-53
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• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.77-94
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• 2011

It is not clear to assume the history of dyeing by persimmon juice without an early knowledge of an accurate record. However, the beginning of persimmon dyeing in Korea is estimated to be around the $13^th$-$14^th$ century, even though there are no supporting records. On the other hand, there are definite records of persimmon dyeing in Japan from around the 17th century. Persimmon juice was originally used for fishing tools in both Korea and Japan, but upon entering the Modern Era it eventually transfigured into a dye for fabric. In Korea, persimmon-dyed fabrics were used for traditional clothing until it also became a popular choice for modern clothes in the 1990s. In Japan, persimmon juice was originally used for varnishing surfaces of household items, but it recently became a material for arts, crafts, and even apparels. The main difference between persimmon dyeing of the two countries is the presence and absence of the fermentation process. In Korea, persimmons are picked and water is immediately added to its juice to produce the dye. In contrast, Japan produces a fermented persimmon dye. As a result, in Korea the dye can not be preserved for long periods, whilst in Japan it is matured in the storage for 2-3 years. Today's pursuit of eco-friendliness and wellness has prompted an inclination towards natural material clothes. Therefore, it is necessary for both countries to push scientific research into improving the storage methods and colorfastness of persimmon-dyed products for the increase of use consumption in other areas of persimmon and arrowroot dyed fabrics, and the development of environment friendly materials.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권8호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

Ash solutions derived from vegetation have been known for their good mordanting action. They are used as finishing agents because they are able to promote dye uptake. It is expected that the types of ash solutions may have been different worker by worker since the workers have employed easy-to-get plants, when we reviewed old literature. However, the ash solutions are being used without clear distinctions between their characteristics. In this study, camellia ash solution and rice straw ash solution were prepared according to traditional methods. Using these solutions as mordanting agents, natural dyeing experiments with Caesdpinia Sappan were peformed. Following the dyeing procedure, the effect of the type of ash solution on the color of the dyed fabric was evaluated. The results showed that the ash solution mordanting effect us not dependent upon the components of the ash solution. It was also demonstrated that the mordanting effect was not based on the action of the metallic ions in the ash solution. The pH values of the ash solutions were adjusted in order to investigate the effect of changes in ash solution alkalinity on the dyeing process. The pH values ranged from neutral or weak acidity to the alkaline range in order to evaluate the characteristics of the mordanting tv the ash solutions.