• 제목/요약/키워드: Traditional Costume

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진주목걸이의 상징적 특성과 착용유형에 대한 연구 (A Study on the Symbolic Features and Wearing Types of Pearl Necklaces)

  • 조정미
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제37권8호
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    • pp.1029-1043
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    • 2013
  • The pearl is a highly valuable gem that has historically represented wealth and power. Pearl necklaces have developed intro various types and represent an essential status item for modern women. This study first examines the symbolic and various meanings of pearls. Second, this study examines wearing types and pearl necklace patterns based on historical figures and modern fashion icons famous for personal displays of pearls. This study examines and analyzes various specialty publications about jewels, history of costumes, fashion magazines, academic research data, and internet search results. The conclusion of this study is as follows. Pearls have various symbolic meanings that are unlike other gems. Pearls represent purity, innocence, marital fidelity, an intimate relationship with the moon, frozen tears of God, solitude, triumph over adversity, wisdom, and sensual attraction. The societies and people traditionally famous for pearls were the Roman Empire, Queen Cleopatra of Egypt, Queen Theodora of the Byzantine Empire, Queen Elizabeth I, Queen Marie Antoinette, Empress of Eugenie Napoleon III, and Queen Alexandra. They showed a special affection for pearl necklaces and various wearing patterns unique to the time. Their pearl necklaces became a historic and symbolic legacy. Reestablished through the costume jewelry of cultivated pearls designed by Coco Chanel in the $20^{th}$ century, the pearl necklace has showed a variety of fashion trends in addition to a traditional symbolism of wealth and power. Josephine Baker, Louise Brooks, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy, Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Diana, Michelle Obama and Sarah Jessica Parker have worn notable pearl necklaces and established an individual style that utilizes the adornment of fashionable and stylish pearl necklaces. They have worn pearl necklaces while applying various fashion trend motifs to symbolic pearl features of that have changed the perception of the pearl and themselves.

르네상스 소설에서의 복장전도가 갖는 상징적 의미 (A Symbolic Sense of Transvestism in the Renaissance Novels)

  • 임주인
    • 비교문화연구
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    • 제19권
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    • pp.149-179
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    • 2010
  • This article is concerned about the symbolic meaning of the transvestism Renaissance perspective through analysis of Triumph Over Persecution work and The Merchant of Venice, and Jealous Ioan Tornese. The transvestism is frequently present in the comedies of the golden age. A woman author Maria de Zayas has a special interest in female identity with critical and defying view. Also the subject of the transvestism in Spanish literature originated in Italian tradition. In Italian literature, there were two types of disguised women, who urge for love and warrior-heroine(amazon). Both types are also listed in Spanish literature. The dress-crossing heroine of Triumph Over Persecution displays a type of heroine, who corrects a male prejudice and reset a harmonious order. Shakespeare is also one of the Renaissance writers under the influence of the Italian Renaissance novel. Heroine of Merchant of Venice symbolizes a triumphant challenge against the blocks of the patriarchal system. In spite of the social system blocks, cross-dressing women may receive in the patriarchal scenes without problems. Based on the notion of paradox and irony, the Italian novel reflects popular psychology of the time when the link between the internal identity and social outside puts into question. The cross-dressing Torneses' wife, symbolizes the mockery or renaissance deception. Their deception emphasis on an ironic way in the point view of inhuman man who consider women material belongs to the man without any free-will. The costume of the characters make it possible to change their original identity into the other. From this point of view, we can say that the transvestism in these works could be interpreted in two ways: first, the destruction of the traditional categories of women's identity and second, the burlesque contempt on the patriarchal renaissance society.

중국 치파오 디자인의 문화 차원에서의 특성 분석 (A Study on Characteristics Analysis of Chinese Qipao Design in the Perspective of Cultural Level)

  • 양베이;장주영
    • 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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    • 제21권5호
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    • pp.905-917
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    • 2021
  • 치파오는 중국의 전통 복식이며, 중국을 대표하는 기호로서 독특한 문화적 의미를 지닌다. 본 연구는 우선 치파오의 개념과 역사적 발전를 개술하며 선행연구를 통해 치파오의 5가지 핵심 요소를 정리하였다. 그리고 문화 차원과 디자인 특징 이론에 기반하여 문화의 외부층, 중간층과 내부층 등 3차원에서 볼 수 있는 디자인 특징을 중심으로 치파오의 5개 핵심 요소가 지니는 의미를 분석하였다. 연구를 통해 치파오의 각 요소별 문화차원의 세 가지 층위 간 다양한 발전 관계가 있음을 발견하였다. 또한, 치파오가 중국의 전형적인 여성 복식으로서 디자인적으로 다양한 연구 가치를 지녔을 뿐 아니라, 인문적인 의미 및 사회, 경제, 기술, 패션 발전의 다차원적인 정보를 풍부하게 담고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 이를 통해 중국 치파오 디자인의 역사와 사회적 가치 및 현대적 의미에 대한 이해를 돕기 위한 기초 자료를 제공하고자 한다. 본 연구는 중국 전통복식의 현대화를 위한 기초 연구임을 밝혀둔다.

조반(趙胖) 부인의 복식과 직물 문양 고증 및 3D 재현 연구 (Historical Study and 3D Visualization of Mrs. Jo Ban's Clothing and Textile Patterns)

  • 강서영;이연규;김정민
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제48권2호
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    • pp.193-210
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    • 2024
  • The portrait featuring Jo Ban(1341-1401), a scholar-official from the late Goryeo and early Joseon period, and his wife is the oldest surviving couple portrait in Korea. It is of great value in uncovering the clothing culture of the period given the limited number of historical artifacts and records. This study examines the historical clothing and textile patterns of Jo Ban's wife and reproduces them using 3D fashion design software program CLO. She wears jokduri, chima, and baeja over layers of jeogori, a mixture of traditional Korean and Chinese styles. Her clothing illustrates eight patterns-one flower, five geometric, and two cloud. Records and relics of similar periods show that flower and geometric patterns in her clothing follow the prevailing styles of Goryeo, while the cloud patterns are representative of early Joseon. These details are used to reproduce six different styles of Jo Ban's wife with CLO tools. Various visualizations of textile patterns are applied to materials, generating a more realistic look than her existing 3D character created with the portrait. Results of this study are expected to help promote the use of Goryeo clothing and patterns in numerous designs and enhance intuitive understanding of Goryeo clothing based on 3D visualization.

조선후기 기여복식이 일반부녀자 복식에 미친 영향 (The Effects of Kisaeng's Clothes on General Women's Fashion in the Late Choson Dynasty)

  • 김나형;김용서
    • 복식
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    • 제39권
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    • pp.113-123
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    • 1998
  • This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.

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조선시대(朝鮮時代) 유교사상(儒敎思想)과 의예복연구(儀禮服硏究) - 남자(男子) 포(袍)를 중심(中心)으로 - (A study on ceremonial costume and Confucianism is Chosun Dynasty - Focusing on Men's Po -)

  • 이선재
    • 복식
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    • 제16권
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    • pp.221-229
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    • 1991
  • This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

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중국(中國) 소수민족(少數民族)의 민족복식(民族服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究)(I) - 운남성(雲南省)의 소수민족(少數民族)을 중심(中心)으로 - (A Study on Traditional Costume of China's Minorities (I) - Centering Around Yunna Province Minorities -)

  • 김영신;홍정민
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제2권3호
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    • pp.137-156
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    • 1998
  • In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China, The results of the study are as follows. 1. Dress and personal ornaments of the Va peoples vary with the locality. Their traditional dress and adornment is characterized by those in the Ximeng area. Men usually wear black or dark blue collarless jackets and black and dark blue loose and short bagged trousers with folding waist. Women usually wear close-fitting sleeveless pullover blouses with V-shaped necks and straight skirts with patterns of red and black cross stripes. 2. Jingpo men have changed to wear shirts with button down the front and trousers. They also entwine white turbans with red bobbles on both ends, and carry diagonally long knives, firelocks and red woolen figured satchels on their shoulders. Women usually wear black velvet blouses with silver bowl-shaped ornaments and chains around collars and on the fronts. They also wear red straight skirts with overlapped slit on the right, waistbands and waist hoops made of rattan and bamboo. 3. The Naxi nationality has a long history and excellent traditional culture. In modern times, women like to wear red, blue or purple laced blouses, long double-layered pleated skirts, waistbands and embroidered shoes. They wear their hair in buns with either hats or kerchiefs over them. While working or going out, they put on their "seven-star" capes made of sheepskin and embroidered with two big circles and seven small ones, while is a symbol of their frog totem. 4. The dress and adorment of the Jinuo people is simple, elegant and has its own unique characteristics. Men usually wear white buttonless shirts with round necks and an opening on the front, knee-length bagged trousers and legging. They wear cloth turbans, earrings and also put small bamboo or silver pipes in the holes of their earlobes. Women wear short buttonless blouses with round necks and seven coloured stripes and thin tight-fitting or embroidered triangular underwear. 5. The dress and ardorment of the Benglong (De' ang) nationality has its own strong national colour. Most of the men wear jackets with buttons arranged diagonally on the front, loose, short trousers and black or white turbans. Some young men like to wear eardrops and silver necklaces. Women's dress and adornment differs according to various branches. For example, the women of the Bielie and Liang branches have their hair shaved and wear black turbans. They use large square silver tablets as buttons and wear blue or black blouses with buttons down the front. 6. Oai men usually wear trousers, white or blue cloth turbans and round-necked shirts with buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front. Women usually wear long straight skirt and blouses. But dress and adornment varies in regions. 7. The Bai nationality dress and adornment has unique national style. The dress fabrics are mainly cotton cloth, silk and velvet. Men usually wear red velvet vests over white shirts with buttons down the front or black velvet vests over light blue shirts. They also wear white of blue turbans and carry satchels with beautiful embroidered designs over their shoulders. Women usually wear red velvet vests over white blouses, or black vests over light-coloured blouses.

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허규 연출 '완판 창극'의 특징과 의의 (The Characteristics and Significance of 'Wanpan Changgeuk' Written by Heogyu)

  • 김기형
    • 공연문화연구
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    • 제20호
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    • pp.5-30
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    • 2010
  • 허규는 80~90년대 창극 연출을 담당하며 왕성한 활동을 전개한 바 있다. 그는 전승 5가 뿐만 아니라 실전 판소리를 창극화 하였으며, 창작 창극 작품도 다수 무대에 선보였다. 특히 '완판 창극'이라는 이름으로 1982년 <흥보전>을 무대에 올린 후 1985년 <적벽가>를 공연함으로써 전승 5가의 창극화 작업을 완결지은 것은 그가 남긴 큰 업적 가운데 하나이다. 허규는 주체적 민족문화의 정립과 한국 전통연희의 창조적 계승 문제에 많은 관심을 기울였던 실천적인 연극인이다. 그는 창극을 한국의 대표적인 공연예술로 정립하고자 노력했다. 창극 작품은 그 연원에 따라, (1)전승 5가의 창극화 (2)실전 7가의 창극화 (3)창작 창극으로 세분해 볼 수 있다. 허규가 연출한 작품에는 이 3가지 유형이 모두 포함되어 있다. 그 가운데 전승 5가를 창극화한 작품이 가장 큰 비중을 차지하고 있다. 허규가 시도한 '완판창극'은 한국의 전통유산 가운데 빼어난 예술적 성과를 거둔 요소들을 집대성하여 무대에 올림으로써, 창극을 한국의 대표적인 공연예술로 정립해 보고자한 것이다. '완판창극'에 나타난 특징은 다음 네 가지로 정리할 수 있다. (1) 전통을 중시하는 연출 태도, (2) 전통연희 요소의 적극적 수용, (3) 격조와 윤리의식의 중시, (4) 해학의 강조와 보조인물의 적극적 활용이 그것이다. 허규가 시도한 '완판창극'은 창극이 성취할 수 있는 예술적 수준의 한 정점을 보여주는 것이다. 판소리 유산을 망라하고 나아가 전통연희를 적극적으로 수용하여, 창극을 한국의 대표적인 공연예술로 정립해 보고자 했던 것이다. 허규는 '완판창극'에서 판소리의 진정성을 그대로 살리려고 노력했으며, 처음부터 끝까지 한 대목도 빠뜨리지 않고 장면화 하려고 했다. '완판창극'의 공연 시간이 4~5시간이나 소요되었다는 것이 그 점을 잘 보여준다. 허규가 완판창극에서 거둔 성과는 이후 창극에 상당한 영향을 끼친 것으로 보인다. 1990년대에 시도된 '완판장막창극'도 그 모태는 허규의 '완판창극'에 두고 있다. 창본을 종합해 내고 판소리의 좋은 점을 모두 보여주고자 하는 의도가 일치한다는 점에서 특히 그러하다. 그렇지만 90년대 '완판장막창극'은 대형 무대화를 지향했으며 화려한 무대장치와 의상 그리고 버라이어티한 요소를 부각시켰다는 점에서 '완판창극'과 대비된다. 허규의 완판창극이 끼친 중요한 영향 가운데 하나는 판소리의 '열린 형식'을 창극의 공연 문법으로 적극 활용했다는 점이다. 허규는 극의 전개 과정에서 필요하다고 판단되면 전통연희의 요소를 적극적으로 수용하여, 극적 표현 영역을 확장하고 작품의 완성도를 높이고자 했다. 이러한 그의 시도는 창극 극작술의 한 방식으로 인식되어, 이후 창극연출에도 지속적으로 영향을 미치고 있다. 요즘 창극은 어떻게 하면 청중들의 호응을 얻을 수 있을까에 관심을 집중하기 때문에, '감동받는 창극' 보다는 '재미있는 창극'을 만드는 일이 중요하다고 생각하는 듯하다. 공연 시간도 최대 2시간을 넘지 않으려고 하며, 관현악 반주를 중시하는 경향을 보여준다. 이런 관점에서는 허규가 '완판창극'을 통해 구현하고자 했던 창극의 지향점은 극복의 대상으로 인식되고 있는 것으로 보인다.

중국 제복의 상징성에 관한 연구 (A study of Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments)

  • 이선희
    • 복식
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    • 제18권
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    • pp.111-131
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    • 1992
  • This thesis was designed to study Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments. Chinese who regarded the life of human beings as the combination of heaven and earth considered garments as the traditional product of the movement of nature. Accordingly, they thought human beings are the center of the universe composed by heaven and earth and the chief of all things; therefore man only can utilize clothes to distinguish from all of the colours. This views of clothes led to the development of liturgical vestments esteemed courtesy than anything else, especially the thought of courtesy associated with Conficius who regarded courtesy as the highest things and since then the theory of Five Elements and courtesy were inherited by all the adherents of Conficius. Yin and Yang Five Elements in the liturgical vestments was given absolute symbolics in both formative side and in colourful side. results of research studied in this was can be summed up as follows : 1. The crown of rites was made imitating after the system of head, horn, beard, bread of birds and beasts and that form of crown is front-circ-ular and back-rectangular meant to be towards light and dark. That the upper part of faceplace is black represented the way of heaven and lower part of red symbolized the way of earth. 2. Upper vestment of liturgical rites symbolizes heaven and outskirt represented earth. So front of outskirt is YANG and back is Yin. It is why then are going to harmonize positive and negative making front part three width and back part four width. Therefore, emperor who symbolizes heaven made the subjects recognize high and low and wore Dae-gu(大 ), Kon-bok(袞服), Bel-bok, Chui-bok, and Hyonbok according to the object and position of rites so that he may rule the country based on courtesy. 3. As an accessory of liturgical vestments, Bul, Pae-ok, Su, Dae-dai, Hyok-Dai, Kyu, and Hol were used. Before Bul was used man dressed skirt as the first waist-dress in order to conceal intimate part of the body. Pae-ok, as decoration blended with jade was worn by men of virtue, so men of virtue symbolized morality and virtue by Pae-ok. Su began from Yeok, connected with Pae-su , in Chou-dynasty is said to be originated by practical needs and they are divided into large Su and small su, and maintained as decoration to signify the class positions. Dae-dai did the work as not to loose the liturgical vestments and leather belt hang Bul and Su to begin as the function of practical use are in later years it became decoration to symboliz e the class position. Kyu was a jade used when empeor nominated feudal lords and observe ceremony to God and Hol, was held in hands to record everything not to forget. These Kyu and Hol became to offer courtesy during the time of rites and in later years it became used according to class position rather than practical use. 4. As far as colours are concerned, colours based by five colours according to YIN-YANG Five Elements theory and they were divided into a primary colour and a secondary colours. Primary colours corresponded with the theory of Five Elements each other, Blue, Red, Tellow, White, and Black symbolized ive Elements, five hour space, five directions, and five emperors. Secondary colours contradict with Blue, Red, Yellow, White and Black and another as a primary colour and they are Green, Scaret, Indigo, Violet, Hun colour, Chu colour, and Chi colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour as primary colour and outskirt was used Hun colour as secondary colours. Thus symbolism in chinese liturgical vestments mainly began with heaven and earth and corresponded with YIN-YANG Five Elements Scool. They were developed as the scholary theory and Conficius and his followers in the later days and continued up to Min-dynasty.

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한국 여성의 수발양식 관한 연구 -조선시대 여성 수발법을 중심으로- (A Study on the form of korean Women's Hair Style-From the Viewpoint of Woman's Hair Style in Cho-Sun Dynasty-)

  • 정상숙;조효순
    • 복식
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    • 제41권
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    • pp.95-105
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    • 1998
  • SOO-BAL(Hair Style) is a method Which match hair style to face and clothes with using hair covering and protecting the head. Also SOO-BAL includes personal ornaments using to avoid one's hair be disheveled. In a standpoint of beauty and spirit, etiquette SOO-BAL is a very important thing as one being dressed up. Until now, since just a form of hair style have been studied, hair styling process is nothing to be known and studied. Time after time, our unique traditional SOO-BAL is forgotten with clothes and then this th-esis will be classified hair styling form follow-ing a form of hair style in royal palace of the C-hosun dynasty. According to the record of HAE DONG HISTORY, it shows the same of attire between Ko-rean and chinese style in ae of the chosun. The reason in that there were no any certain boundary border and the interaction of culture between two countries was happened spontaneously at ancient time like the GOCHO-SUN age. Until the period of the three states, the korean attire be changed had gone with chinese one s-imilarly. The chinese form gave to influence on the EONJIN MEURI·POON-GI-MYEONG MEURI·JJO-CJIN MEURI·MOOK-EUN GOONG-BAL MEURI·OL-LIN MEURI·SSANGSANG-TU ME-URI be drawn wall painting in the KOKUR-YU. And a gold chignon accesso-ry unearthed in a MOO-RYOUNG royal mausoleum is proof of the korean attrire be changed with chinese. In the shilla dynasty at three years after Cjin-Deuk(A.D. 649) reign. It was recorded that the dynasty let women wear the form of chinese attire. Also in the koryo dyn-asty, a rod-like hairpin (BIN-YEU) and DANG-GI employing EON-JIN MEURI was used. The SOO-BAL based on the Confucianism had lots of regulations which limited to use ornaments with classes of society in the CHOSUN dynasty. Until YOUNG CHO and CHUNG CHO period. EONJIN MEURI be decorated GACHAE was announced by dynasty as ind-ulging in luxury. Women of yangban used a rod-like hairpin and a chignon accessory made by jewerly. And 1-owly women weared a rod-like hairpin made of born and wood to perfom EONJIN MEURI with PUNCHAE. Most unmarried women decorated with DDA-AH-NEULIN MEURI, GUI-MIT MEURI, specially in palace with SAE-ANG MEURI. At palace, one put on a full dress with KEUN MEURI, and a simple dress with ER-YEO MEURI be decorated DDERL-JAM The CHOP-JI MEURI manifested social rank, class. Kids at CHO-SUN age had BA-DUK-PANMEURI and JONG-JONG MEURI. The ornament things are GACHE, DDERL JAM with EON-JIN M-EURI, and all kinds of rod-like hairpin and chignon accessory used in JJOK MEURI. IN DANGGE, JE-BI-BURI DANGGI used by ummarried women. DO-TOO-RAK DANGGI and AP DANGGI on a dress suit, and BE-SSI DANGGI used by 3∼4 years ungrown kids etc. were used. And at palace, kinds of CHUPJI used with JJOK MEURI showed social rank. In CHOSUN age, women want to keep shiny hair washed at TA-NO festival day, a treatment of bald hair used a forked remedy. In CHOSUN age, woman Soo-Bal hair style has DAE-SOO·DDEU-KOO-JI MEURI·CHO-P-GI MEURI·EON-JIN MEURI·SAE-ANG MEURI· and so on. We could find out Soo-Bal was developed very well by these variety hair styles. I attatched all of the hair style pictures step by step, and also explained detail my research foll owing these pictures.

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