• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.600-613
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.85-102
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• 2015

This study aimed to develop dress torso patterns with both aesthetic and functional qualities that fit for women in their 20s. In order to develop dress torso patterns, wearing tests were done. By collecting drafting methods of the patterns through literature study and the survey of wedding dress manufacturers, four kinds of dress torso patterns were selected. The existing dress torso patterns have no or very small ease in chest, waist, and hip circumferences. As a result of wearing tests of these four existing dress torso patterns, drafting methods of dress torso patterns that have the best satisfied values close to optimum zero were selected; the first and second research dress torso patterns were developed by modifying and supplementing items that had noticeable difference through the Wilcoxon rank sum test with a selected measured value and a best satisfied value of zero; and deduced a drafting method for the final developed dress torso patterns by a wearing test of the second developed dress torso patterns. Distinctive aspects of drafting methods of the final developed dress torso patterns were that ease for each area was given differently by considering a functional quality and a chest circumference instead of a bust circumference was applied to reduce influence by the size of breast in neck and armhole areas, and a back bust level. Back neck breadth was made wider and front neck breadth was made less narrow due to a recent change of age 20s female adults' shoulder and back shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.42
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• pp.163-172
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of torso of adult females using the tight fitting technique and pattern development figure. The subjects are 106 females of 19 to 24 years old. 59 different items are measured from body surface development and analyzed by factor analysis and cluster analysis. The results are as follows; 1. Eight somatotype factors are obtained through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax Factor 1 is the length of upper body factor 2 the length of lower body factor 3 the circumference and width of the back of upper body factor 4 the circumference and width of front torso factor 5 the dart type of the back of upper body factor 6 the size of the back neck factor 7 the type of the front shoulder and factor 8 the size of the back arm hole. 2. As a result of cluster analysis the somatotype of torso is classified into 5 types. Type 1 is normal in length circumference and width of upper body. Type 2 is shortest length circumference and width of torso. Type 3 is long in length circumference and width of torso. Type 4 is normal length and short in circumference and width especially short in bust circumference. Type 5 is longest in length circumference and width of torso.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.149-166
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• 2021

This study tried to suggest a drafting method to draft tight fit torso patterns suitable for adult males with a sway back somatotype and a bend forward somatotype by setting and distributing the ease through the completion of the somatic surface pattern using the 3D body surface segment method. It was intended to be presented as a drafting method. As for the research method, the suitability of the somatic surface patterns and the tight fit torso patterns were confirmed by the evaluation of virtual wear, and the patterns were modified and supplemented. The research results are as follows. In the first evaluation of the tight fit torso patterns, the average, for 55 evaluation items, was 3.92 points for the sway back somatotype and 3.89 points for the bend forward somatotype. In the second evaluation, the bend forward somatotype was 4.51 points and the sway back somatotype was 4.62 points. The chest circumference ease amount for the bend forward somatotype and the sway back somatotype are 6.5% (6.8 cm) and 7% (6.8 cm) of the chest circumference, respectively, and the distribution of the front and back ease is the same at 4:6 (2.72 cm:4.08 cm). The waist circumference ease amount is 6.5% (5.8cm) and 6.5% (5.6 cm) of the waist circumference dimensions, and the distribution of the front and backease are 5:5 (1.45 cm: 1.45 cm) and 4:6 (2.24 cm: 3.36 cm), respectively. The completed tight fit torso patterns were converted into institutional formulas and presented as a drafting method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.366-379
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• 1995

This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle-aged women's upper torso by classifying the upper torso somatotype and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. Factor analysis of principal component model was used to 38 directly measured items, and cluster analysis was applied for classification of upper torso forms. Seven factors were extracted from the factor analysis. The first factor represented the items of circumference, breadth, and depth which were related with body size. On the basis of the cluster analysis using factor scores trom factor analysis as being independent variables, the subjects were classified into three groups. Three dress forms were constructed according to the characteristics for each somatotype of subjects, the three-dimensional characteristics of somatotype were analyzied by the moire pattern and horizontal section map of proposed dress forms. Wearing test by moire topography was used to evaluate wearing outline, the ease of clothes and garment space. Moire pattern and horizontal section map were useful to evaluate wearing conditions, and garment space was changed by the characteristics of the body shape.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1073-1081
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• 2006

The development of foundation garment pattern on the typical adult women's body was carried out. By means of the flatted body surface shell, the foundation garment pattern was developed. And its fitting test also performed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The investigated Foundation basic pattern was made by the allowing the maximum bust size without any surplus since it was based on the tight-fitted model drawing technique. The investigated the completed pattern was designed in three parts of front and back body, including bust. 2. The result showed by overlapping the torso basic pattern foundation and body surface development selected from body almost the same except for the shift of dart position. 3. The result by overlapping basic pattern 3 existing basic patterns. On the basis of top-bust line showed that the setting up the volume of dart of bust and its waist affect the appearance of model. Especially, it was found that the above result was related to the bust and under bust line. 4. The result of the wearing test of 3 existing basic patterns and basic pattern of this study revealed that the mean values of whole items were higher than average in type P and type E. The fitting & position of under-bust line and extent of wrapping bust showed the high points in the current study and type of P. The result of evaluating the whole appearance in three points(front, side, back) showed different according to the every basic foundation garment pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.561-576
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to classify the upper torso body types of obese Korean adult women using the 7th Korea National Anthropometric Study data and compare the body type differences according to three age groups: 20s~30s, 40s~50s, and 60s. A total of 548 adult women whose BMI was in the obese range of 25 or higher and whose age ranged from 20s to 60s were selected from the anthropometric database. Twenty-nine body measurements related to torso and arm areas important for torso and sleeve pattern development were chosen. Five drop values by differences between bust, waist, and hip circumferences were also chosen for analysis. The number of obese women increased with age. The results revealed seven factors according to the factor analysis and three obese body types based on the cluster analysis. Body type 1 (47.3% of obese women) was characterized by narrow shoulders, a small or medium torso, and a straight waist. Body type 2 (42.4% of obese women) was characterized by a defined waist and a larger lower torso than upper torso. Body type 3 (10.3% of obese women), the largest obese body type among the three types, was characterized by a large bust, large abdomen area, and long upper torso. Women in their 20s to 30s were most likely to have body type 2, women in their 40s to 50s were evenly distributed between body types 2 and 3, and women in their 60s were most likely to have body type 1.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.1-21
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• 2004

This research suggest the correspondent sizes of female ready-made clothes to export to China on the basis of those of Korean women's ready-made clothes. The following is the concrete coverage of this research: $\cdot$ Analyze the physical measurements and body types of the women in their 30s and 40s in the area of Ningbo, Jeolgang Province in China. $\cdot$ Compare the body measurements of Chinese and Korean women. $\cdot$ Hold compensation measurement by an basic torso pattern test to raise precision of the direct and indirect body measurements. $\cdot$ Establish the corresponding and representative sizes of women's ready-made clothes to go to China. $\cdot$ Make basic torso pattern and sample clothes reflecting representative sizes. $\cdot$ Hold adjustment and compensation through the wearing evaluation by Chinese consumers on the spot. $\cdot$ Finally suggest the correspondent sizes of women's ready-made clothes to export to China.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.10 s.212
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• pp.179-190
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to apply the three dimensional Replica method to the fabrication of dress forms of plus-sized women to attain proper ease through draping and based on the ease to develop good torso patterns with superior fit. The results were as follows. The physical characteristics of the dress forms of plus-sized women were divided into two: Types I and 11. The proper ease was calculated through draping using dummies of each somatotype and appropriate torso patterns were developed. The differences of the types for each pattern were as follows. The bust girth ease of Type II was 6cm as for Type I. As for the bust breadth 1.0cm was added to the anterior chest width, the armpit width was the actual measurement plus 0.5cm, and the back breadth was the posterior chest width plus 2.5cm. The bust breadth was smaller and the back breadth was bigger that those of Type I after improving the bust and back fit. The bust of Type I protrudes outwards relatively and so the shoulder dart of front-side of Type I was 1.2cm bigger than that of Type II which improved the bust region fit. Considering the characteristics of the protruding abdominal region the front- side waistline of type II was assigned W/4+3.5cm and the back-side waistline W/4cm, so that the sidelines divided the front and back properly. It was drafted so that the center-front became diagonal, thereby improving the middle-hip girth fit.