• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.71-82
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• 2011

This study set out to investigate the identity of everyday headgear, which is often found in many paintings of Tongshinsa, Joseon diplomatic missions to Japan, in the 18th century. That resembles Yu-geon儒巾, but on the top of the headgear are lappets like a roof. The study proceeded as follows: 1) The painting of Tongshjnsa parade in 1711 was used to analyze wearers of everyday headgear because titles of position are shown for each one. 2) Personal records of Tongshinsa in the 18th century were analyzed to examine the cases of everyday headgear. 3) Cases of everyday headgear in literature around the 18th century were examined. Those researches revealed three findings: 1) The names of everyday headgear with a roof shaped top are Gohu-gwan高厚冠 and Yeonyeop-gwan蓮葉冠. 2) Among Tongshinsa, wearers of Gohu-gwan or Yeonyeop-gwan are medical staff, interpreters, painters, and secretaries. However, it doesn't seem to have been distinction between the two types according to social class and position. 3) People wore everyday headgear, that resembled the two types in appearance, such as Mjnja-geon民字巾, Sunyang-geon純陽巾, Hwayang-geon華陽巾, Jeon-geon戰巾, or Jang-geon將巾 in China and Joseon around the 18th century. Among them, Sunyang-geon and Hwayang-geon seem to have had the closest relationship with Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan in terms of shape and character of wearers. The analysis of the research findings led to the two following conclusions: 1) Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan were worn as one of everyday headgear to represent appearances of a scholar. 2) Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan could be changed versions of the similar everyday headgear or different names of them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.99-111
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• 2007

This paper was built by following next steps. First, based on the records of the Tongshinsa, the official diplomatic mission Joseon dispatched to Japan, the actual conditions of wearing a Danryung, a official robe, in the 18th century were researched. Then the difference of wearing state between the missions - in 1719, 1748 and 1764- was found and the reason why was analyzed. In result two distinctions were found: 1) A black Danryung was worn in 1719 at the banquets and while receiving an official letter of reply, but a red Danryung, Gongbok or Sibok on the later trips. 2) In 1764 travel records there was some confusion of the names Gongbok and Sibok, which denote the same item of robes, according to the writer. The reason why those changes and confusion were caused is analyzed as follows: 1) After the Japanese Invasion(1592) and the Manchu Invasion of Joseon(1636), a black Danryung replaced the Gongbok for a while. But after the mid-18th century, when the Gongbok was revived, that was reappeared in the official ceremonies. 2) In the mid-18th century, both Gongbok and Sibok system had been revised. But because both color system was similar, those revision became a cause of confusion between Gongbok and Sibok. For a while all ministers wore red Gongbok and Sibok, but after those revision the color of official's robe was changed by officials' rank: the higher ranking officials' Gongbok and Sibok are red, the lower ranking officials' are bluish green.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.60-71
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• 2011

This study set out to examine Hakchangui worn in Joseon around the 18th century and further the relationships between the Chinese Hakchang and Joseon Hakchangui, as well as to figure out spread factors of Hakchangui. The study proceeded as follows: 1)The Hakchangui was examined those appearing in the collections of works and paintings after the 17th century. 2)The Zhuge Liang's Hakchang was researched through Romance of Three Kingdoms, paintings and sculptures. 3)The images of Hakchangui wearers described in literature were investigated to understand the symbolic meanings of Hakchangui in Joseon those days. Those research efforts revealed four findings: 1)In many cases, the Hakchangui worn in Joseon in the 17th and 18th century has side slits, but no back slit. It's both sides of the center front were parallel, not overlapped. 2)Hakchangui was strange to the Joseon people until the end of the 18th century but started to permeate among those who liked classic style. 3)The aspects of Zhuge Liang were standardized in the combination of 'Yungeon, Hakchang, a feather fan and a wagon' in Romance of Three Kingdoms. 4)Zhuge Liang was considered as a symbol of wisdom and loyalty and had an image of a Taoist hermit who transcended the mundane world. The analysis of the research findings led to two following conclusions: 1)ln Joseon the Chinese Hakchang was introduced to people who had exchanges with Chinese or liked classic style in the 17th and 18th century and gradually spread by their advocates. 2)The Hakchangui must have been increasingly worn by more Joseon scholars because they started to borrow the image of Zhuge Liang driven by the popularity of Romance of the Three Kingdoms and the tendency of reinforcing Zhuge Liang's image as a loyal subject by the kings of Joseon.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.331-336
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• 2003

This study is to research the influence of Caesalpinia sappan which was imported through the exchanges between the Chosun dynasty and Japanese envoys during the early Chosun dynasty. Korea interchanged politically and culturally with Japan since ancient times. Particularly, the good-neighbor foreign policy toward Japan grew into trade relations. The diplomatic mission, under the name of Tongshinsa, was dispatched 12 times in total. Plenty of goods were exchanged through the visiting of Japanese envoys as well as through the activities of Korean envoys. In other words, the Korean-Japanese relations were at first focused on the political and diplomatic etiquette and gradually evolved into economic exchanges. Trading goods were various, including food, clothing, etc. Caesalpinia sappan, a red dye, was the most imported goods from Japan, but it was sold at a very high price, which caused luxurious trends in clothing. However, these sumptuous moods of the upper classes were decreased in the 16th century. Some of the reasons are : the difficulties of Japan's trade with the Caesalpinia sappan producing countries in South-east Asia, the transition of the high classes' preference from red clothing into Chinese BaecSa and SaraNeungDan, and the comparative decrease in the demand of Caesalpinia sappan by the changed understanding of Honghwa. Therefore, the early Chosun dynasty's clothing trends were due to the relationships between the Chosun dynasty and Japan.