• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.112-120
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• 2010

In this paper time series wave data measured continuously for 24 hours during a storm in Yura Sea Area are used to investigate statistical characteristics of nonlinear waves. The exceedance probability of wave height is compared using the Rayleigh distribution and the Edgeworth-Rayleigh (ER) distribution. Wave data which show stationary state for 10 hours contain 4600 waves approximately. The Gram-Chalier distribution fits the probability of wave elevation better than the Gaussian distribution. The Rayleigh ($H_{rms}$) distribution follows the exceedance probability of wave height in general and predicts the probability of freak waves well. The ER distribution overpredicts the exceedance probability of wave heights and the occurrence of freak waves. If wave data measured for 30 minute period which contains 250 waves are used, the ER distribution can predict the occurrence probability of freak waves well. But it overpredicts the probability of overall wave height If no freak wave occurs, the Rayleigh ($H_{rms}$) distribution agrees well with wave height distribution for the most of wave height ranges. The wave height distribution of freak waves of which height are less than 10 m shows similar tendency compared with freak waves greater than 10 m. The value of $H_{max}/H_{1/3}$ is related to the kurtosis of wave elevation. It seems that there exists threshold value of the kurtosis for the occurrence of freak waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.265-275
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• 2011

Estimation of wave height is the most important factor in the design of coastal structures such as breakwaters. In the present study, typhoon wind distribution was constructed by applying the parametric model of Holland (1980), and numerical simulations on the typhoon-generated waves were carried out using the WAM. The typhoons which affected the southern coast of the Korean Peninsula and several hypothetical typhoons were selected to construct the training sets. Design wave heights were estimated using the empirical simulation technique for various return periods and wave directions. The estimated design wave heights were compared with those by the peaks-over-threshold method and the results of KORDI(2005).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.106-121
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• 2020

In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.203-210
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• 2018

It is generally known that submerged breakwaters can reduce the incoming wave energy without disturbing the beach scenery. However, a submerged breakwater is also able to cause a setup of the sea level in the protected area which is also called as water piling-up. Since the piling-up can result in longshore currents, sediment transports, and unexpected beach erosion, understanding about the piling-up process is required prior to designing the nearshore structures. In this study, the water piling-up behind a submerged breakwater is assessed in the time of storm events. For the study area, Anmok beach in Gyeonso-dong, Gangwon-do is selected. 1-year, 5-year, 10-year, and 50-year return-values were derived from Peaks-Over-Threshold(POT) method and those are applied as offshore boundary conditions for the numerical simulation. The numerical results of the piling-up were assessed with regard to the wave steepness and the height of the submerged breakwater. With increase of both significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater, the piling-up parameter is also increased which can lead to erosion of dry beach behind the structure.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.115-128
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• 2019

In this study, a probabilistic model for the estimation of yearly workable wave condition period for offshore operations is developed. In doing so, we first hindcast the significant wave heights and peak periods off the Ulsan every hour from 2003.1.1 to 2017.12.31 based on the meteorological data by JMA (Japan Meterological Agency) and NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration), and SWAN. Then, we proceed to derive the long term significant wave height distribution from the simulated time series using a least square method. It was shown that the agreements are more remarkable in the distribution in line with the Modified Glukhovskiy Distribution than in the three parameters Weibull distribution which has been preferred in the literature. In an effort to develop a more comprehensive probabilistic model for the estimation of yearly workable wave condition period for offshore operations, wave height distribution over the 15 years with individual waves occurring within the unit simulation period (1 hour) being fully taken into account is also derived based on the Borgman Convolution Integral. It is shown that the coefficients of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution are $A_p=15.92$, $H_p=4.374m$, ${\kappa}_p=1.824$, and the yearly workable wave condition period for offshore work is estimated to be 319 days when a threshold wave height for offshore work is $H_S=1.5m$. In search of a way to validate the probabilistic model derived in this study, we also carry out the wave by wave analysis of the entire time series of numerically simulated significant wave heights over the 15 years to collect every duration periods of waves the height of which are surpassing the threshold height which has been reported to be $H_S=1.5m$ in the field practice in South Korea. It turns out that the average duration period is 45.5 days from 2003 to 2017, which is very close to 46 days from the probabilistic model derived in this study.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.397-404
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• 2014

In Korea, harbor tranquility is generally estimated by using both methods of investigating harbor calmness under abnormal wave condition and evaluating the harbor serviceability. The efficiency of the former method is questionable as the tranquility of a harbor is judged by a wave height criterion that is arbitrarily determined without rational basis. In case of the latter method, the utilization rate of a harbor is estimated by using the exceedance probability of wave height or the distribution of wave heights and periods that is obtained from longterm measured or hindcasted wave data. Use of long-term data is desirable in order to guarantee the accuracy of the exceedance probability. Meanwhile, the criterion for determining maximum allowable wave height for cargo handling works is too simple and has limitations for being used in an actual field condition. Problems of existing method for estimating harbor tranquility were verified by the wave observation data in Busan New Port. And the importance of the field observation data was emphasized. It is necessary to perform long-term wave monitoring inside and outside of major ports in Korea in order to establish more advanced standard for evaluating harbor tranquility based on such observed wave data.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.70-86
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• 2015

Short crested waves play an important role for planning and design of harbours. In this context a numerical simulation is carried out to evaluate wave tranquility inside a real harbour located in east coast of India. The annual offshore wave climate proximity to harbour site is established using Wave Model (WAM) hindcast wave data. The deep water waves are transformed to harbour front using a Near Shore spectral Wave model (NSW). A directional analysis is carried out to determine the probable incident wave directions towards the harbour. Most critical threshold wave height and wave period is chosen for normal operating conditions using exceedence probability analysis. Irregular random waves from various directions are generated confirming to Pierson Moskowitz spectrum at 20m water depth. Wave incident into inner harbor through harbor entrance is performed using Boussinesq Wave model (BW). Wave disturbance experienced inside the harbour and at various berths are analysed. The paper discusses the progresses took place in short wave modeling and it demonstrates application of wave climate for the evaluation of harbor tranquility using various types of wave models.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.303-314
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• 2022

The persistence analysis of marine physical environment factors is a basic analysis that must precede the use of sea areas as an analysis required in the coastal engineering such as downtime and design. In this study, the persistence analysis was implemented for wind speed and significant wave height data from four observation points of Deokjeokdo, Oeyeondo, Geomundo, and Geojedo among the marine meteorological observation buoys of the Korea Meteorological Administration. The persistence time means the consecutive time of observation data beyond specific level. The threshold wind speed and significant wave height were set in the range of 1~15 m/s and the range of 0.25~3.0 m, respectively. Then, the persistence time was extracted. As a result of the analysis, the persistence time of wind speed and significant wave height decreased rapidly as the reference value increased. The median persistence times under the maximum reference thresholds were assessed as a maximum of 5 hours for wind speed and a maximum of 8 hours for significant wave height. When the reference wind speed and significant wave height were 15 m/s and 3 m, respectively, the persistence time that could occur with a 1% probability were 52 and 56 hours. This study can be expanded to all coastal areas in Korea, and it is expected that various engineering applications by performing a persistence analysis of the metocean data.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.205-218
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• 2013

The likelihood of rip current at Haeundae beach according to wave parameters, such as wave height, period, direction, and tidal elevation, was estimated by using numerical simulations with a Boussinesq model, FUNWAVE. To examine the estimation, the rip current occurred on 12th June, 2011 at Haeundae beach was simulated based on observations. For the estimation, the following procedure was carried out. First, extensive numerical simulations of nearshore circulations are performed under various random sea conditions according to the wave parameters. Second, from the numerical results, cross shore components of two-wave-period averaged velocities over the nearshore area were computed, and their seawardly maximum was defined as rip current velocity of the area. Third, using time series of the rip current velocity, we computed the ratio of the simulation time and the time period in which the rip current velocity exceed a threshold velocity for rip-current accidents, and thus the ratio was quantified as the likelihood of rip current at Haeundae beach for the input wave parameters. From the resultant estimations, it was found that the rip current likelihood increases as wave height and period increase, and tidal elevation decreases.

• Journal of Environmental Impact Assessment
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.457-470
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• 2019

This study aims to present the characteristics of marine physics, water quality, and sediment quality around offshore wind farm near the Gochang and Buan sea areas through the analysis of monitoring data. The relationships between suspended solid and wave height as well as suspended solid and flow velocity were analyzed. We found that Correlation Coefficient values of 0.61~0.69 between wave height and suspended solid, and suspended solid concentration reaches 75 mg/L or higher when wave height of more than 1m occurred in the spring (1 month). The water quality index (WQI) was used to identify the status of the water quality in the study area. Most of the measured points were rated first grade (very good). The variation of chlorophyll-a was relatively hight compared to the other criteria, indicating that it is a major factor affecting the quality index. In the sediment column, all heavy metals were detected below the Threshold Effects Level(TEL), and ignition loss and grain size show a positive correlation.