• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.159-179
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• 2006

This research checked about the necessity for the development of men's dress forms in the first investigation for the educational circle and the men's wear industry. Somatotype characteristics were analyzed in the second investigation of body measurement with the subjects of 200 male adults in their twenties residing in Busan. The following are the results of the present research to develop male dress forms for patternmaking: 1. In the group analysis for the characterization of front body types, three somatotypes were found and named H, Semi X, and Y. In the cluster analysis of side body types, four types were identified: D, I, d, and q. In the combination of front and lateral body types, four kinds were chosen: semi X-I, semi X-q, semi Y-I, and Y-q. 2. Through the comparison of plane figures by the plaster method as well as horizontal and vertical cross sections by the sliding gauge method, semi X-I was finally chosen as the standard somatotype for male dress form development. 3. Compared with the sliding gauge method of the present dress forms, the research dress form reflected better the shapes of the parts of the back and hips and the position of the waist, especially for males in their 20's. In addition, the dress form in the current research had superior points in all the items of clothing evaluation. Based on the above results, the sizes and models of the men's dress forms for patternmaking were developed.

• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.722-732
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• 2018

This study was to develop a dress form that is highly representative of the body shapes of senior men in their 50s and 60s. And this research was compared the measurements and forms of three different dress forms available in the market, in order to analyze the body type and suitability and provide a standard for developing and utilizing the dress forms. After extracting the body shapes of the senior men's 3D shape, the body type that is curvature on the back prevalent among senior men, was chosen. The dress form was created as follows: 3D modeling and rendering, printing with a FDM-type 3D printer. The dress forms were 3D-scanned and the 3D data was analyzed - classification drop value, area deviation, compared horizontal section and vertical section. The results were as follows: This suggested that the area deviation amount at the chest and hip circumference levels was larger in the commercial products than in the dress form in this study, while that at the waist circumference level was larger in the dress form in this study. The vertical length of the lateral shoulder point-waist circumference was smaller, the side shape showed severe curvature on the back, and the waist circumference was larger in the senior men dress form than the commercial products. The dress form developed in this study reflected the body type of senior men and, therefore, were suitable for fitting when creating clothes for senior men.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.614-623
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop a wedding dress basic torso pattern and sleeve pattern considering good fit and aesthetic for figures of Korean brides in their 20s. For the research method, 3 women in their 20s who has the body size of ${\pm}$ S.D range of average figure and dress form suggested by 'the 5th human body measurement' of Size Korea were selected as the test group. The evaluators are 8 clothing construction majors, and the evaluation items included total 22 questions related to torso and total 10 questions related to sleeves. The evaluation was made using 5 Likert point scale. 4 prototypes for basic dress pattern were selected through the literature search. After compare analyzing design methods of prototypes, the real wedding dresses were made in the average size of women in their 20s and the dresses were tried on for the assessment. The data was analyzed using SPSS 18.0 Program to examine average, standard deviation and significant differences between basic patterns. Based on the results of the first and the second try-on assessments, a new wedding dress basic pattern with maximized strengths of compared prototypes was completed. The details of result follows. As for dress torso basic pattern, A pattern, which had the highest overall silhouette satisfaction and scores in basic pattern analysis and try-on assessments, was selected as the prototype, and a research basic pattern reflecting strengths of each basic pattern was developed. As for dress sleeve basic pattern, B pattern, which had the highest overall silhouette satisfaction and scores in basic pattern analysis and try-on assessments, was selected as the prototype, and a research basic pattern reflecting strengths of each basic pattern was developed. In this study, a wedding dress basic pattern considering good fit and aesthetic for figures of Korean brides in their 20s was suggested. It is expected that the basic pattern will be used by continuously developing dress market and ready-made wedding dress manufacturers as well as in educational institutes.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.31-49
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• 1998

This study is the primary basic study about the spatial feature of modeling of Fashion Design. Then, this researcher lays significance in establishing the basic system about the character of dress and its ornaments as modeling in spatial-formal, dimension, examining the feature of modeling closely through perception principle and offering the basic principle to plan and organize the modeling space for dress and its ornaments on the basis of it. To generalize the findings is as follows : First, the spatial system of modeling for dress and its ornaments is made with 3 elements such as space, human beings and dress and its ornaments. Second, the form of dress and its ornaments and the spatial organization start from the structural basis which is human body, and the sensible system of body is made through inter-action, but the aesthetic expression is complet-ed by the moment of body. Third, the characteristic principle of model-ing for dress and its ornaments which was suggested in Chapter IV is based on the visuo-per-ceptional modeling experience, and these thinking contents are inputted in cognition course as the invisible in formation in the new space plan and organization and activate the apperception course and aim at the action about aesthetic judgement.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.1116-1133
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• 2016

This study examines the historical background of Goryeo and its relationship with Song and Yuan. In addition, it observes the shape of dress styles for the king, queen, officers, maids in waiting, and commoners after classifying them with a focus on the dress style of normal people appearing in Buddhist paintings. This study then investigates structures by tracing Goryeo's unique identity and its characteristic by a comparison and analysis of dressing style elements of Goryeo with Song and Yuan. The results shows that the Song's system was used exclusively for the dress style of the king and government officers of Goryeo after Goryeo's submission period by Yuan. There were no clear appearances of a Mongol style dress but only changes in head styles of cutting hair around the head and twisting the rest in a top down and long method. In addition, Song's style Bokgeon was shown by the king to his lower level officers. This was because the king and his officers of Yuan were in accordance with Song's system in officer's dress, hat and head style, armor, and horseback riding equipment. Second, there is doubt if they inherited a traditional form and style of the dress rather than followed the dress style of Yuan because the shape of Yuan's basic dress style Deel is very similar to the dress shape of early Buyeo people's Po in the $3^{rd}$ to $4^{th}$ centuries. Third, the shape of the Chaksu and Gung-go had been kept as it was in the dress style of ordinary men, and because the shape of the double collar had already appeared in the period of Samguk, which appeared in all classes of Yuan. There is no reason to adopt double collar shape that appeared. The general Pyeonbokpo of the country had to be influenced by Yuan. Forth, the dress style of queen and her maids in waiting were mentioned in documents; however, there was no shape of a dress like Boktag and Deel in the relics, which are the characteristic of Yuan's woman dress style. Fifth, the shape worn national style Yu and Sang had been kept in an ordinary woman's dress style; however, the two style system of high and lower class in Yuan's ordinary woman dress style appeared newly and is considered an influence of Goryeo.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.37-60
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• 2021

Before the tenth century, the dress of elite women in and around China often reflected "Han" Chinese fashions and preferences. In funerary paintings and relief sculptures of Sogdian and Xianbei couples from the sixth century, for example, women wear "Han" Chinese-style clothing. Even in the Tang dynasty (ca. 618-907), when exchange with Central Asia via overland Silk Road trade impacted the styles and patterning of elite dress and men incorporated clear Central Asian attributes into their dress, elite women in the Tang sphere wore recognizably Tang fashions. Chinese-style dress in these centuries clearly conveyed cultural import and, likely, political power, especially after the founding of the Tang dynasty. However, the straightforward borrowing of Tang women's dress shifted in the Khitan Liao dynasty (ca. 907-1125). The Liao, in contrast to other states that shared a border with China in previous centuries, saw themselves as political equals to the Song dynasty (ca. 960-1278) court in the south. The Liao court was interested in Song customs and culture and incorporated artistic motifs and practices from the Song court. However, the Liao courtly idiom was never fully subsumed into the greater world of the Song - rather, the Liao used facets of Song courtly culture for their own ends. One way this is manifested is through the dual administrative system, a bureaucratic organization that, among other things, regulated and distinguished between who was permitted to wear Khitan and non-Khitan dress. In this paper, I will examine the material evidence from funerary contexts for how the dress of elite Liao women both engaged with the dress of the Song, while also maintaining a certain amount of cultural autonomy. Through their dress, elite Liao women signaled clear messages about their status, identity, and difference to their Song counterparts.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권
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• pp.63-80
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• 2004

Elegance in dress has been mentioned as an important term for explaining a beauty of dress and a fashion image through the times in the history of dress. Nevertheless, it has been spoken indeterminately without analyzing the accurate meaning. In addition, almost all the scattered discourses of it were very limited to womenswear. The purpose of this study is to provide a framework for a better understanding of the concept of elegance and its aesthetic characteristics expressed visually on dress from the holistic viewpoint, focusing on male elegance in dress. To obtain the purpose, the documentary study and the practical analysis were carried out. Elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress but also a sort of aura of dressed body with skillful ease. Its aesthetic values consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony. Though male elegant styles had already existed throughout the history of dress, it was Mannerism in the 16th century which expressed ‘studied elegance’ for the first time. On the grounds of both the classification of periodic styles and the periodic values, they can be defined and categorized into Mannerism Elegance, Salon Elegance, Modern Elegance Since Dandyism, Aestheticism Elegance. In the late 20th century they can be recognised as Classic Dandyism Elegance, Soft Casual Elegance, Elaborate Heroic Elegance. Although male elegance in dress has been visualized in different ways depending on periodic values, it has essentially been a refined beauty of high class which was valued until recent years. Its common plastic features appear as soft shapes, subtle colors and delicate fabrics modulated with exquisiteness and well-adorned appearance, graceful behavior make elegant styles completed. All of elegant styles have m common with refinement, harmony as main aesthetic values.

• 복식
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.39-50
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present adapting Korean beauty to the design of Wedding dress. For this study, Chosun Men's Pyoeui(coat) were considered first. Pyoeui had the courtesy and variety. They were Jobog, Danryeong. Chulrlk, Dabho, Jangeui, Aegjueumpo, Jigryeong, Changeui, Changos, Jungchimag, Hagchangeui, Simeui, Dopo, and Durumagi. Pyoeui were considered the formative features and the costume beauty describing Shape, Color, Material, Pattern. and Ornament. And Pyoeui were considered the instances which were adapted their formative features to Wedding dress. The formative features appearing on Wedding dress were merely applied the outward shape. Therefore it will be necessary to understand the outward features and the costume beauty about Men's Pyoeui for adapting Wedding dress. And then the continuous attempt is needed to adapt the beauty of Korean costume to the design of Wedding dress.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.657-670
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• 2003

It is quite common today for bride to wear white-colored wedding-dress in wedding ceremony. When does the color date back to? What does the “white” mean? Which other colors had been used for wedding dress and why? This research paper aims to answer those historical questions through literature review. It is found here that the “white” began to be generally accepted for a wedding dress color in the 18th century, and that the color became an official one since the marriage of Queen Victoria's (i.e. 1840). Prior to that, other colors were taken rather than the “white”. In ancient Greece and Roma, “Red” and “Yellow” were used to remove devils or to bring fortune. In medieval society, luxurious wedding dresses were popular and various colors were adopted in order to show up family power among leading classes. The “White” has meant purity of bride since the 18th century. However, two world wars in the 20th century happened to lead some brides in economic difficulty wear “black” colored wedding dress for a practical reason. After the world wars, some light colors such as white, beige, ivory are to be used in wedding dress.