• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.224-241
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• 2017

This study considered the change process for Western style shoes in Korea during the time of modernization in the 1920s to 1930s. Western style shoes were one of the items imported by foreigners since the Joseon Dynasty and had a significant impact on Korean dress code. It influence started to spread in the 1900s; however, few high level people wore Western shoes until the 1920s. The trend started to spread through newspaper advertisements and news articles after the mid 1920s. Western shoes such as modern girl and modern boy in the 1930s then entered into Korean culture. Korea under Japanese colonial rule was reorganized on a war footing in the latter half of the 1930s and the main materials for western shoes (cow leather, horse leather and sheepskin) were mobilized as materials for war production; subsequently, new materials using rubber were introduced. The representative material is 'Marine Leather (水産皮革)' and Sharkskin 'Gyoheok (鮫革)' and Whaleskin 'Gyeongpi (鯨皮).' Form is like the material has changed over time. This study also observed the flow of westernized Korean modern shoes as well as analyzed the details of materials and shape of western shoes by period. This represent basic materials to understand the legacy of western shoes in the age; in addition, systemic summary is organized by each kind, shape and materials for each style of western shoes.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.60-70
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• 1999

The purposes of this study were to investigate preference and images of Korean traditional motifs, and to identify the relationship between them. The subjects consisted of 369 male and 356 female undergraduate students. The experimental materials used in this study were 48 stimuli and a questionnaire composed of 7-point semantic differential scales of 26 adjectives. Twelve motifs selected from 3 groups of Korean motifs were used as pattern design stimuli. Twelve repeated patterns were constructed from them to be applied on a CAD-simulated dress. The data were analyzed by ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, and regression. The major findings were as follows : 1. Category, composition type, and application object had a significant effect on the preference. Interpretation type has no significant effects on the preference independently, but it had interaction effects when combined with composition type, and category. Especially the composition type had a greater effect than the other variables on the preference. Cloud motif and its abstract and decorative type were found to be more related to the preference than the other category and interpretation type. On the basis of the analysis results, image charts and preference charts were developed. By combining information from the image chart and preference chart, motifs and images preferred by consumers may be selected and developed into new valuable designs. 2. The preference was affected mainly by 'quality'image followed by 'simplicity', 'interest', and 'modernity'image. The preference on pattern design was affected by 'quality', 'simplicity', 'interest', and 'interest', 'simplicity', and 'modernity'image in the order. The relationship between the preference and sensibility images has been represented by equations.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.15 no.6 s.59
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• pp.159-171
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• 2006

As the increase in quantity of apartments has been stable, consumers' needs in housing quality become more diverse. According to the changes in the tendency of residents, construction companies has developed brands of apartment buildings with the concepts of LOHAS, well-being, ergonomics, ubiquitous. However, these trends has been focusing on the Capital area, and becoming fixed and typical in the way of delux quality, large-sized houses and a healthful residence. For that reason, this research is about survey on the needs of the local apartment residents, especially in Daegu. This analysis of their preferences will furnish basic data and offer possible interior plans to building companies making inroads into the Daegu apartment market. This research is based on the questionnaire forms which had been collected for two months(in Aug.-Oct.) of 2005 in Daegu and the amount of the samples is 135. All of them are the residents of the apartments where they moved in after 2000. The contents of this research include the evaluation of plane composition and practicality, interior finishing and design, and spaces for items. The results of this research show that the interior design and finishing materials of apartments in Daegu should be improved and the drainage and uncleanness of bathroom also need to be considered, much like the results of Seoul area. However, regarding the higher age range and life stage, the bedroom 2 needs to be planned for a study and the design of livingroom is prefered to be widely open. Besides, comparing with those in Seoul, the residents in Daegu demand that spaces for things (especially those in secondary kitchen and dress room) be more organized and convenient.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.42-53
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate donning and doffing independence of the disabled individuals. The subjects of this study were who had kinetic disabilities on upper-limbs. 31 women and 38 children were participated in the survey. They were classified with six groups according to their upper-limbs' kinetic ability levels. Three upper-limbs' kinetic abilities were adopted: Lifting arms up to the chest, twisting shoulder to throw arms toward the back, and buttoning clothes by oneself. The independency of donning and doffing of 14 upper-body garment styles were evaluated by subjects. The donning and doffing independency of 14 garment styles was significantly differentiated by the level of kinetic abilities and garment styles. The person who able to button clothes by oneself could don and doff clothes by oneself. The results also revealed that the independency of donning and doffing was significantly different between cerebral palsy and apoplexy groups. The persons having a stroke of apoplexy were more likely to be able to dress independently than the persons with cerebral palsy. The persons with a paralysed arm were more likely able to wear ready-to-wear clothes of various styles. The donning and doffing independency was also significantly differentiated by the styles of garments. The tight fit style garments were more difficult to be dressed independently than the loose fit style garments. The jacket and shirts, which were buttoned from neck to bottom, were more difficult to be dressed independently than T-shirts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.21-34
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop a new Korean fashion design using forced-relationship techniques and the traditional hanbok Korean dress and Korean traditional images as the source of the ideas. The research methods consisted of literature research and design production. In the literature research for the hanbok composition and design elements, the concept and type of forced-relationship techniques were studied. The design development process was as follows. First, 'Developing a Korean fashion design' was set as the design theme. Second, the composition and design elements of hanbok and Korean motifs, which consist of Korean images were set as fixed elements of the forced-relationship technique. Third, among the various trends in keywords, 'punk' belonging to a subculture, was set as an arbitrary element of the forced-relationship technique. Fourth, the punk fashion design elements and items were listed. Fifth, a rough sketch was performed by selectively combining fixed and arbitrary elements. Sixth, a design evaluation process was conducted to select the designs out of 52 design sketches that fit the purpose of the study. Seventh, a total of six designs were selected after making design modifications. Through this, a total of six works of women's clothing was designed, made, and presented. This study offers the possibility of developing new Korean fashion design images, and a chance to share designs based on different cultural elements in the global market.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.473-487
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the body type and fashion of posthuman in SF movies. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, internet web site, fashion books and so forth. The results were as follows: The body types of posthuman were expressed as mutation type, prosthetic type, clone type by biological hybrid or renovation and digital type by computer simulation. The mutation type was expressed as reinforcement of masculinity or feminity and reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a black tailored suit, leather jacket, cat suit, whip, black sunglass, garter belt, high heel shoes, short pants, black one piece dress and functional body suit. The prosthetic type was expressed as reinforcement of body functions and reinforcement of masculinity or feminity. The fashion item was expressed as a military item, high-tech power suit and ergonomic armor suit. The clone type was expressed as the plural ego with reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a power shoulder jacket, fake fur coat, vinyl, black see-through look and functional suit. The digital type was expressed as reinforcement of masculinity or feminity and the plural ego with reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a data suit, leather jacket, black over coat, boots, black sun glass, ethnic items and military items. The meanings of posthuman fashion in SF movies were impurity of posthuman, display of superhuman's power by sexuality, metaphor of power and fantasy of superhero in opposition futuristic dystopia. As mentioned above, posthuman body type and fashion in SF movies become the conversational topic in the real world. The fact that we think about utopia and identity of posthuman in the future is of great significance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.289-300
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• 2016

This study surveys children's costumes and games from the 11 Genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(Stewart Culin 1858-1929)". The character of the general dress-costumes, games and the culture of life from the late $19^{th}$ century in genre painting of Junkeun Kim are as follows. The study results on the games are as follow. The boy's games are kite-flying, spinning tops, playing shuttlecock with the feet, blindman's buff, yut("Four-Stick Game"). Girl's games are seesaw with board, blindman's buff, marbles. Combined games are mount shoulder, sledge, tightrope walking for men with boy. The strengthen one's body type were seesaw with board, tightrope walking, the compete score type were playing shuttlecock with the feet, marbles and the multi complex type were yut("Four-Stick Game"), kite-flying. Through genre painting in the $19^{th}$ century we know a boy's 'Jeogori 'and 'Ba-ji' were similar to a modern man's and boy's 'Hanbok' with a traditional method of wearing. We believe that the originality of a traditional costume was an unchangeable characteristic. Girl's 'Jeogori' and 'Chi-ma' changed in length and width, and method of wearing; however, the basic shape did not change. The analysis for artist's genre painting which was ordered by a foreigner and the late of $19^{th}$ century's children's costume and game of life culture is useful to match the counters and show how to wear a modern Korean costume used to understand the 'Hanbok' and establish a costume of life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.176-188
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• 2013

This research examines embroidery panels of Hwarot belonging to the Victoria and Albert Museum (the V&A). There are a total of seven objects and are all disassembled into clothe pieces. They were classified into two groups according to their acquisition year. One group, four objects, was acquired by the Museum in 1920. Considering their materials, embroidery threads, techniques and formative characteristics of patterns, it can be assumed that the objects formed an original dress, Hwarot. Although they look very similar to the embroidery patterns of Hwarot belonging to National Folklore Museum of Korea, they are more finely embroidered with very thin embroidery thread that uses the Jarisu technique. There are some differences in used embroidery threads and embroidery skills between Hwarot artifacts of the National Museum of Korea and the V&A. The embroidery of the National Museum of Korea used thicker threads and longer (approximately 0.7cm) Jarisu stitch techniques. With these details, they would have been made in different time periods. Comparison of the V&A and Changdeok Palace' Hwarot objects show that their patterns' motifs are almost similar but the pattern units, expressions and embroidery techniques are different. Regarding the colors of their patterns, it is noticeable that the peonies are generally expressed in reddish and the lotus patterns are expressed in either bluish or purplish color. It seems that they are contrasted with red-colored flowers and show harmony between yin and yang symbolically. Three artifacts of another group were acquired in 1925. Two of them show patterns almost the same as those of the sleeves of Hwarot (no.33156, no.33158) in Chicago Field Museum collection. The pattern of the remaining object is very similar to Hansam of Hwarot (no.33158).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.103-121
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• 2002

This study intended to analyze the transition of design of Korean soccer player's uniform according to development of the society and changes in formative elements, and examine features inside them by considering designs of soccer player's uniform by ages ranging from the introduction of soccer up to now. Results of the study are summed up below. First, as a result of analyzing designs of soccer player's uniforms from 1920 to 2002 Korea-Japan WorldCup based on formative elements of the style of dress. \circled1 it is shown that basic shape has been kept but changes in only color. cutting, trimming, logo and symbol have existed. \circled2 Colors of the uniforms have been different according to ages but red, blue and white colors have been used most and sometimes black was employed. so it is known that colors in the Korean national emblem have been all used. \circled3 In the beginning of the uniform there was a limitation in its design due to absence of functional materials but now highly-sensitive textile products and highly-functional textile materials guaranteeing optimal condition and highest activity of a soccer player have been utilized in various ways. \circled4 It is known that symbols modelling the image of Korea have been used in diverse ways but effected much by directions toward images pursued by designers of sponsors. Second, the meanings represented by designs of the uniforms are classified into a degree of symbolizing Korea, tradition, superiority and dynamics. That is to say, \circled1as colors and symbols coming from the emblem have been used in the uniforms. they have symbolized one nation and possessed the meaning representing even Korean national spirit. \circled2As traditional colouring and symbols have been used in the uniforms, they have shown the Korean sense of a beauty. \circled3 Colors, tones and designs overwhelming the mood of play have been used in the uniforms, so that they have played a role in making players of other team flinch mentally and making Korean players gain an advantage over them. \circled4 Thanks to strong symbols or comparative effects of colors. they have shown the dynamics representing power and energy.