• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.44 no.5
• /
• pp.969-983
• /
• 2020

Zero waste fashion design to minimize the 15% fabric waste generated during production can be difficult to industrialize instead of having strong originality. This study designed shirts that are practical and reflect trends using the zero waste pattern cutting method and suggest the possibilities for industrial production. The content of the study are as follows. First, the pattern cutting method of zero waste fashion design was studied. Second, the recent trends of shirt design were analyzed and reflected in the design development. Third, 4 zero waste shirt designs were developed and produced by applying the geometric cutting, puzzle cutting, and minimal cutting methods. As for the research method, literature research was conducted on related references; in addition, design development and production were conducted empirically. As a result, the developed zero waste shirts are practical and trendy. In addition, the results of the study are meaningful to provide basic data for the commercialization and industrial application of zero waste fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.42 no.3
• /
• pp.486-502
• /
• 2018

Mass-production caused by industrialization has led to environmental pollution; however, a potential solution to this problem is the Up-cycling fashion design belonging to the sustainable design category. This study analyzed the material characteristics of each brand fashion product by selecting 21 domestic Up-cycling fashion brands. The product types manufactured by domestic Up-cycling fashion brands could be divided into fashion clothing, bag, and fashion accessories. The materials used for each item included special material, waste fiber, waste leather, waste paper, and others. In the results of analyzing the material characteristics into the external characteristics and internal characteristics, the external characteristics included the durability with less abrasiveness and deformation as well as a mixture with other different materials, while the internal characteristics included a story arousing consumers' empathy, and scarcity without the same design due to the limitation of material.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.11-19
• /
• 2019

The mass production after the industrialisation and the fast changing fashion cycles in today's world resulted in buying clothes and home textiles more than we need and discarding them before they complete their life cycles. This causes vast amounts of textile waste that creates environmental issues. Upcycling is the creative process of transforming clothing and textile waste by reusing deadstock or used fabric to create new garments and products. It holds importance in terms of sustainability, reducing waste and environmental pollution. During the process of upcycling, certainly the creativity and innovation are the key words because to reuse a product to a better value needs a creative mind, aesthetic consciousness, innovative look and knowledge and it is quite different from a normal design procedure. There is a delicate level of aesthetics which carries the reused materials to a higher value. The handling of the materials, knowing how to manipulate the waste material, the techniques available to apply to surfaces, the concept of two and three dimension on textiles and clothing, contributions of other branches of art such as sculpture and painting all help the designer to reach a higher aesthetic value in the upcycled product in this process. In the study; it was aimed to raise awareness, to attract attention to sustainable fashion and also to contribute to sustainable development as an upcycling design project realized with students in textile and fashion design education taken as an example.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.30 no.4
• /
• pp.513-528
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to understand the concept of zero-waste design and to apply Sophia Vyzoviti's folding techniques to develop a zero-waste fashion design method that contributes to sustainable fashion design. In this study, we explore the method and characteristics of zero-waste fashion design based on the concept of folding described in Sophia Vyzoviti's book on folding techniques. Using the autonomy of Sophia Vyzoviti's folding technique, four changeable folding fashion designs were developed and produced, demonstrating zero-waste fashion design. The results were as follows. First, the development of fashion designs using Sophia Vyzoviti's folding techniques enabled the development and production of free and creative zero-waste fashion designs that were three-dimensional, continuous, fluid, and full of potential. Second, the production of zero-waste patterns was further developed into a transformable fashion design that can be used with geometric patterns. These folding techniques produced a fashion design method that could transform one piece of clothing, demonstration the potential for maintenance of creativity using a zero-waste design based on these folding techniques. Third, the double-faced fabric, Neoprene, was chosen as an appropriate material as it emphasizes the depth of folding with application of two colors and its cotton/polyester blend that is suitable for folding.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.44 no.5
• /
• pp.984-1003
• /
• 2020

The global fashion industry produces significant carbon emission and micro-plastics in oceans. Studies on sustainable design methods as such environmental issues in fashion are becoming intensely problematic. This study conducted a case study on 100 upcycle fashion brands to propose strategical upcycle fashion designs to compete in a sustainable fashion market. A literature review indicated that 3 types of textile wastes are generated as upcycling materials: post-producer, pre-consumer and post-consumer. Wastes are categorized together with 3 types of techniques: redesigning, reconstruction and handcrafting. This research derived 7 types of upcycle fashion designs that have the following features: to make luxury upcycle fashion products, to make sustainable grunge looks, to re-evaluate deadstocks, to recover vintage clothes, to convert waste into craft-arts, to offer solutions for damaged products, and to make zero-waste small fabric waste. The study results show that key drivers in the upcycle fashion design are the redesignability of materials and technique-related costs. This study implies that adopting appropriate design features can be a useful strategy for designers. New technologies will solve current problems and encourage them to design products in a new circular value system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.43 no.1
• /
• pp.95-111
• /
• 2019

This study is the 2nd report following "A Study on the Characteristics of Material in the Korean Up-cycling Fashion Brands (Part I)" that handled the development of upcycling props using the characteristics of upcycling material. The 2nd report analyzed product types and materials focusing on 21 foreign upcycling fashion brands. It analyzed the characteristics of upcycling fashion materials using the case analysis of coffee bean bag and waste denim based on external characteristics and internal characteristics. We then classified the external characteristics into environment/economic feasibility and availability/mixture and the internal characteristics into historicality/story and originality/scarcity. Five bags were designed and produced for the actual commercialization of fashion products based on such characteristics of materials, with the use of coffee bean bags and waste denim as upcycling materials. This study is differentiated from existing research by its suggestions for the utilization of fashion product upcycling coffee bean bags and waste denim. Also, upcycling fashion products could be competitive products in eco-friendliness and originality that can be a driving force for the sustainable development of fashion industry through the differentiation of existing fashion products.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.9 no.6
• /
• pp.29-38
• /
• 2005

Natural dyes have attracted the worldwide attention because of its environmental advantage over synthetic dyes. However, most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store. In this study, coffee waste were used as natural dye to create beautiful colors. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provides a comparatively regular quality regardless of seasonand source. The effects of mordant agent concentration and mordanting temperature on dyeing efficiency of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordants. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color. The increase in mordant concentration did not always increase the dyeability, and 0.5% o.w.f. mordant concentration was enough to get a satifactory result. Mordanting temperature also had little effect on the dyeability in case of Al, Cu, and Sn mordanted fabrics. Only Fe mordanted fabrics showed a better dyeability in the increase in mordating temperature. Coffee extract dyeing is an effective way using waste as resource and can create brilliant colors with minimal amount of mordant and under mild mordanting condition.

• Fashion Information and Technology
• /
• v.7
• /
• pp.59-64
• /
• 2010

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.18 no.5
• /
• pp.661-673
• /
• 1994

We have gathered a fatty acid to recycle the waste oil of food manufacturing process, and then made a soap from the waste oil by alkali saponification. Effects of the washing elements such as the concentration of the soap, temperature and time were evaluated to find out the optimum washing conditions, and results are as follows. 1. We could find soaps made from the soybean oil (A), corn oil (B), rape seed salad oil (C), cotton seed oil (D) and a soap consisting of the each oil 25% respectively (I) had the lowest surface tension at the concentration of 0.225% -0.25%. Compared with the single fatty-acid soap, the multi-component soap I showed the lower surface tension at the cmc. 2. All the samples of A-I showed the lowest contact angle for the solid material at the concentration of 0.25%. The multi-component soap of I showed higher contact angle than the single.component soaps of A, B, C and D. 3. The soap G, made from the waste oil, show lower surface tension than 5, made from the complex raw fats of the eatable fatty oil acid and H, commercial soap. 4. The washing efficiency depends on the washing time. Especially the 25-minute was found to be the optimum washing time. 5. The highest washing efficiency was found at the 0.25% cont. reagardless of the washing temperature. At 0.15% concentration level the washing efficiency reduces as washing tem- perature increases. At 0.3% concentration level the highest washing efficiency was found between $50^{\circ}$-$60^{\circ}$. 6. The soap made from the waste oil showed the highest washing efficiency in terms of concentration, temperature, and time. 7. The soap made from the waste oil showed the similiar concentration of hydrogen ion to the synthetic detergent. 8. The hand value of the fabric washed by the soap made from the waste oil was a little lower value than those washed by the synthetic detergent.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.32 no.4
• /
• pp.193-198
• /
• 2020

In this study, the validity of extracts from food waste as biocatalyst for indigo reduction was examined. Dried food wastes such as apple peel and corn waste were water-extracted and freeze-dried. The reducing power of extracts for indigo was evaluated by the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) measurement of reduction bath and color strength(K/S value) of the fabrics dyed in the indigo reduction bath. Total sugar contents of the apple peel and corn waste extracts were 60.56% and 62.36%, respectively. Antioxidant activity was 64.78% for the extract of apple peel and 7.96% for the extract of corn waste. Indigo reduction took place quickly with both extracts, and maximum color strength was obtained up to 15.91 and 12.11 within 1-3 days, respectively. The oxidation-reduction potential of reduction bath was stabilized in the range of -500 ~ -620 mV according to the kinds of food waste and the extract concentration. At higher concentration of the extracts, reduction power was maintained for longer time and stronger color strength was obtained. Compared to sodium dithionite, the reducing power of the studied extracts was lower, but the reduction stability was superior to it. The studied extracts were effective biocatalyst as biodegradable and safe alternatives to sodium dithionite for indigo reduction.