• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This study aims at the improvement of sewing function through understandings of dynamic property about the sewing methods and the thread material selection in knitwear. The tensile strength and shear of KES-FB and the Instron were measured for the analysis of the mechanical properties. The knit cloth was structured In the plain stitch, $1\times1$ rib stitch and $2\times1$ rib stitch with the combination of wool and cotton. With regard to the sewing method, intralooping and interlacing were applied. For thread materials, polyester, cotton, wool and silk were used. Since silk has the lowest extension and similar values regardless of its construction in intralooping, it is available knit apparel with uniform elastic recoverv. It also has small shearing resistance. It can be used in apparel which needs big mobility, but it causes rutting problem. Therefore, it is suitable to use intralooping. When the same sewing yarn and textile are use, it can lower shearing resistance and extension in intralooping, Since wool needs a lot of extension energy and it can be cut, intralooping is more suitable than interlacing in sewing of wool. In interlacing using polyester, extension and shearing resistance are high. Therefore, it is suitable for knit sewing with high massing. Silk is not suitable for interlacing since it can be rut. Even though knit materials are different, the RT values of polyester and cotton are similar in same construction. Therefore, they can be substituted each other considering resilience after sewing.

• 복식
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• 제58권7호
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• pp.13-30
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• 2008

Visual language is 'a form of communication without text'. Visual language is one of the strongest methods to spread knowledge. Uniforms could be interpreted as a symbolic language that establishes order in this complicated modern society by placing identity and responsibility on each members of various different organizations. In light of the above, the purpose of this research paper will be to analyze police uniforms of U.S.A, Great Britain, Italy, France and Korea as a form of visual language and interpreting them in terms of visual design in order to understand the fundamental ideas behind the designs and the effective applications thereof. Upon analysis of traffic police uniforms of each individual county mentioned above by separating each uniform's distinctive design, pattern, color, material and decoration based on visual factor, three characteristics of authority, dynamic functionality and friendliness were derived from comparing and analyzing each country's distinctive uniform design. The traditional unique role of police in our society was to maintain social order as their nature inherently possesses characteristic of authority and preservation, but has since undergone transition in many countries to appeal to the broader public by incorporating friendliness and dynamic functionality. Analyzing police uniforms in terms of visual linguistic sense requires a much more profound process of understanding beyond simple interpretation of configurative shapes. In conclusion, the true purpose of uniforms is to include and portray images of mankind's desire toward expressing ideas like 'mankind's bias toward existence beyond theirselves and the exercise of force through authority' and materializing such ideas into a physical form.

• 공업화학
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.168-172
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• 2007

회분 병류 5단 평형추출에 의해 4종류의 질소고리화합물[indole(In), quinoline(Q), iso-quinoline(iQ), quinaldine(Qu)], 3종류의 2환 방향족화합물[1-methylnaphthalene(1MN), 2-methylnaphthalene(2MN), dimethyl naphthalene(DMN)], biphenyl과 phenyl ether로 구성된 모델 혼합물로부터 In의 분리를 검토했다. 본 연구의 원료로서 사용된 모델 혼합물은 콜타르 유분(유출온도범위: $240{\sim}265^{\circ}C$)을 구성하고 있는 성분 및 조성을 고려하여 작성했다. 추출용매로서는 Formamide 수용액을 사용했다. 4단 평형추출을 통해 In을 99% 이상 회수할 수 있었다. 5단 평형추출을 통해 얻어진 DMN을 기준성분으로한 In의 선택도는 63~118의 범위를 나타냈다. 본 연구를 통해 얻어진 실험적 결과와 이전의 연구결과를 이용하여 콜타르 중에 함유된 In의 분리 및 회수공정을 검토했다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.929-938
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to explore the consumers' purchasing pattern and dissatisfaction with the quality of the jean pants. A total of 695 men and women completed the questionnaire. The questionnaire for the survey measured consumer's jean pants purchasing pattern and dissatisfaction for quality. The results of this study showed that men bought higher priced jeans. Women in their twenties purchased and worn jeans frequently and men and women in age 20s mainly bought jeans at wholesale stores or department stores; but, majority of subjects in their thirties bought jeans at discount stores. Consumer's dissatisfaction with the quality of jean pants was significantly different among the groups by age, gender or their pursuing buying benefit. The men and women in age 30s were dissatisfied with harshness of the denim fabric. The subjects, who highly concerned on the aesthetic value, were dissatisfied with the inconsistence color of the jean pants after washing. Men and women who valued the functional performance of jean pants, were dissatisfied with low sweat absorbancy of jean pants material. The results of this study showed that the consumer's buying pattern for jean pants were differentiated by their age and gender. These results imply that jean pants manufacturers should develop jean pants to meet the needs of their target market. The jean pants, which were manufactured for discount stores, should be made of fabrics with good sweat absorbancy and soft hand. The fashion jean pants, which were targeted for women seeking aesthetic values, should be improved to maintain color consistency of the fabric.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.97-111
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• 2004

To study the clothing names has been one of the research subjects in the history of clothing since the name could be the basic tool to understand the clothing. In the past, the name of clothing were used in Chinese character which is hieroglyphic. Each character of Chinese has special meaning. They had been changed into Korean after Korean characters were invented. During the period when they were changed into Korean, some of them retained the original meaning while others widened the original meaning. Some of them even translated into totally different meaning. Accordingly, it could be a clue to survey the changing process of Chinese names into Korean by analysing the vocabulary in the books published in Choseon dynasty. In this study, the first step is to survey the children's Chinese vocabulary learning material, Hunmongahoe(1527), Sinzeungliuhap(1576) and Ahackpyun(1804). These books were widely used from 16 to 19 centuries. It has been surveyed how the meaning of clothes names has changed and the special features of changed names. The names appeared in these Chinese vocabulary learning books included headgear, footwear, dress, part names of dress, ornaments, color and names of textile. The followings are observed by studying the names appeared in more than two books above： 1. The same Chinese character were translated differently. 2. Recently the meaning of Chinese character has been reduced or changed into new Chinese character. 3. Some of them retained the same meaning but used different character. It has been observed that some clothing names retained the original meaning but others changed the meaning, or translated into different names. It shows that the appropriate meaning of names should be properly selected when we study the history of clothing.

• 복식
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• 제58권6호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate how formativeness of shamanism has expressed and developed in modern fashion. Formative expression of shamanism in modern fashion has expressed in the way of on style, color, material and pattern as follows; Style has made animal and human incorporated by expressing abstract animal on the part or whole of costume and it has reconstructed traditional shaman costume into modern costume. Skin colors of living bodies which exist in nature, such as black, blown, yellow and grey, were used to symbolize spirit and low brightness of colors such as blue, white and black were also used to symbolize hyperspace. Artificial materials which imitate animal figure and genuine materials from animal were used. Various natural materials used in traditional shaman costume were also used. Animal patterns and abstract patterns symbolizing the celestial heaven and lower world, and patterns shown on wall painting and rock painting has appeared. The meaning of shamanism in modern fashion can be identified as interchangeable movement of time and space, a cosmic outlook on the world and ration. Spiritually designed costume has made fashion move to hyperspace in spirit trip. Modern fashion with shamanism has expressed its cosmic outlook on the world or universal wish beyond human's real world by patterns such as bird figure which means the celestial heaven and lower world. Corporation and transition of human and animal were symbolized as shaman hypernatural intercourse with designs expressed in costume using a part of animal or animal's characteristics.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.87-97
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• 2009

A technology in development called CACD (Computer Aided Clothing Design) can reproduce fashion shows by utilizing computers, and is of particular interest. Considering the growth potential of this area, the purpose of this study is to present the development potentials that CACD technology will bring to the fashion area and to promote the diversity of the fashion industry. This will be realized by identifying the current status of CACD and its reach in the field of Fashion, followed by an in-depth analysis of its application. The methodologies employed in this study are as follows; in-depth study of related literature, field research of business firms, and investigation on Internet data. For the systematic advance of CACD, the development of user-friendly programs for 3D clothing design is of the utmost priority. The four technologies that should be intensively developed to enhance the development of the clothing industry through the utilization and commercialization of CACD are as follows; First, technology capable of performing accurate three-dimension measurement of the human body is needed. Second, technology which realizes automatic pattern formation is needed. Third, the nature physical properties of the material and textile design when applied to pre-formed patterns must be expressed similarly to the real thing. Last of all, an integrative technology which can conduct fast and accurate clothing simulations must be developed.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2002

Today, great percentage of apparel fabrics comprise knit products. A few apparel items are almost exclusively made from knit products including sweaters, T-shirts, lingerie, and hosiery. In weft knits, intermeshing yarn traverses the fabric crosswise. The production rate of knitting machines is about four times higher than that of conventional looms iin proportion to the amount of fabric produced per unit time. Knit apparels fabrics are noted for freedom of body movement, easy-care, resilience, soft draping and quality. The appearance of fabrics is of prime importance along with tactile features such as smoothness, crispness, stiffness when we deal with the handling evaluation of the textiles. In practice, the quality and performance of fabrics judged by sighted evaluators, and it is perhaps logical, in attempting to establish an effective fabric objective measurement system. It is worthwhile to make objective measurement that correlate well with subjective evaluations made by sight and touch together. However, it often imposes difficulties to effectively measure and analyze the appearance or optical properties of the textile surface features. In this study, an attempt is made to provide a preliminary approach to the analysis of the gloss property, which is one of the optical properties of fabrics. The specimens range from 70/24 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric to 70/68 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric, the latter being finer. A few three-dimensional models based on Peirce's model of knit stitch have been proposed and material properties were given to calculate the properties. Goniophotometric measurements of the specimens were also carried out.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.29-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.219-229
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability of silk fabrics with sweet potato stem leaf extract. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions it was examined at various dyeing conditions(temperature, pH, time and bath ratio). The dyeability and the depths of shade which were evaluated in terms of K/S and CIELAB color difference values of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were also investigated. After dyeing, various color fastness(wash fastness, dry cleaning fastness, light fastness, rub fastness, and perspiration fastness) was measured and reviewed for UV protective, deodorant and antimicrobial functionality. The optimun output, as a result, was shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 80 minutes of dyeing time while in terms of dye uptake depending on the kind of mordants and mordanting, it was found that among four mordants of $Alk(SO_4)_2$, $CuSO_4$, $SnCl_2$, and $FeSO_4$, post-mordanting with $SnCl_2$ showed the best results. Color fastness to dry cleaning, washing and rubbing was found strong at grade 4-5 and the grade to perspiration was as good as 3 while to light fastness was good at 4 as well. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98.3% UV protection rate and 88% deodorization rate. Antibacterial activity was 99.9% against staphylococcus aureus and 73.3% against klebisella pneumoniae. In conclusion, we validated that the dyestuffs from the disused sweet potato stem leaf extract would be useful as a natural dye material using the optimized conditions and dyeability for silk dyeing.