• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.131-140
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• 2021

Collagen and chitosan are used in medical and cosmetic materials as natural polymers. In order to utilize the advantages of the materials, collagen/chitosan conjugated wet-spun fibers were prepared. The analysis of surface, optical, thermal and mechanical properties was carried out on the various composition of collagen and chitosan. As a result of images analysis, it was verified that the collagen/chitosan conjugated fibers were stably spun. In addition, the optical and thermal properties of fibers were observed to be changed by hydrogen bond. As a result, an optimized composition could be found at an appropriate content. Moreover, the optimized fibers have mechanical properties similar to chitosan fibers, while improving the structural and thermal stability by its hydrogen bond. In addition, the wet-spun collagen/chitosan conjugated fibers can be applied to medical and various fields through mechanical properties according to content control.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.357-371
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• 2022

With the expansion of the vegan fashion industry and increasing consumer interest in vegan goods, the first inaugural Vegan Fashion Week was held in LA in 2019. However, there are no studies examining the sustainability of vegan fashion brands; this study underlines the necessity to close this research gap. This study aimed to ascertain how these issues are handled by vegan fashion brands. Using the "sustainable criterion of fashion brands," we investigated the companies that participated in Vegan Fashion Week. This study analyzed the featured brands, conducted case studies, and examined each brand's sustainability strategies and procedures. Press releases, news articles, official websites, and web magazines served as raw data for this study. Analyses of individual networks were performed and brands' approaches to veganism and sustainability were evaluated; eco-friendly material, fair trade, local production, and vegan inspiration were among these techniques. Every brand had put at least one of these requirements into practice for their business, with vegan inspiration being the most popular approach. Additionally, it was discovered that vegan fashion brands deliberately employed vegan messaging that aligns with their corporate values. After its initial launch, VFW continues to advance the discourse on vegan fashion both within the industry and with the general public. The study's implications include the analysis of vegan fashion brands' ethical manufacturing, environmental practices, and overall sustainability.

• Safety and Health at Work
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.107-117
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• 2023

Background: Thermophysiological comfort in a cold environment is mainly ensured by clothing. However, the thermal performance and protective abilities of textile fabrics may be sensitive to extreme environmental conditions. This article evaluated the thermal insulation properties of three technical textile assemblies and determined the influence of environmental parameters (temperature, humidity, and wind speed) on their insulation capacity. Methods: Thermal insulation capacity and air permeability of the assemblies were determined experimentally. A sweating-guarded hotplate apparatus, commonly called the "skin model," based on International Organization for Standardization (ISO) 11092 standard and simulating the heat transfer from the body surface to the environment through clothing material, was adopted for the thermal resistance measurements. Results: It was found that the assemblies lost about 85% of their thermal insulation with increasing wind speed from 0 to 16 km/h. Under certain conditions, values approaching 1 clo have been measured. On the other hand, the results showed that temperature variation in the range (-40℃, 30℃), as well as humidity ratio changes (5 g/kg, 20 g/kg), had a limited influence on the thermal insulation of the studied assemblies. Conclusion: The present study showed that the most important variable impacting the thermal performance and protective abilities of textile fabrics is the wind speed, a parameter not taken into account by ISO 11092.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.628-638
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• 2020

This study develops a cool-touch functional Dancesport top for middle-aged women by using cool-touch materials in areas where surface temperature becomes high after exercise. The post-exercise surface temperature of the developed research product was compared and analyzed. In addition, subjective evaluation of cool-touch as well as appearance and movement evaluations were performed. The results are as follows. In designing the research product, a detachable neckband was made using highly-preferred hydrated polymer crystals. A material with high moisture absorption speed was also used in F1, S1, under arm and B5, while a material with good thermal conductivity was used in other parts of the bodice. Deodorant tape with antibacterial and deodorant effects was incorporated in the armpit for additional comfort. As for wear evaluation of the research product, significant differences were found in 10 areas using a material with high moisture absorption speed to compare and analyze the post-exercise surface temperatures of the clothing. The temperature difference between the compared top and the research product in the neckband area was 9.16℃, demonstrating clear cool-touch function in using cool-touch material. In the subjective evaluation of cool-touch function, the results showed high scores when asked about the efficiency of the detachable neckband and the ease of movement when wearing the product. In the appearance evaluation, significant differences were found in 11 items, including redundant folds, tightfit, fit, and design line. The overall mean score of the movement evaluation was 4.6, indicating excellent function for movement.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.228-235
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the functionality with material-improved working uniform(protocol, P) and current working uniform(control, C). Movement functionality evaluation of material-improved working uniform was carried out through sensory evaluation of working uniform. And Oxygen uptake was explored to different working uniform(P, C) in relation to a physiological functionality measurement. The results have been shown as follows: It was found that the workers feel uncomfortable with the parts of the wrist, the back width, the shoulder seam and the side in the current working uniform when they move their arms up and down, but the inconvenience has been reduced in the material-improved working uniform. And It was found that the workers feel uncomfortable with the parts of the back width, the wrist and the side seam of the jacket, and the waist, the hips and the thigh of the trousers in the current working uniform when they move their waist, but the inconvenience has been reduced in the material-improved working uniform. In the current working uniform, it was also found that they feel uncomfortable with the parts of the horse riding position in which they stand straight in their slightly bended knees, with the parts of the hips, the side seam, the thigh and the knees when they crouch down, and with the parts of the hips and the thigh when they put one of their legs onto a higher place. However, the inconvenience was reduced in the material-improved working uniform. Oxygen uptake, which was measured to assess physiological dressing functionality, was found to be higher when people work in an uncomfortable uniform than when they work in a uniform of better functionality by an increase in metabolic rate, which can be a cause of workers' inefficiency of fatigue.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.117-127
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• 2018

As an application and potential of 3D printing (3DP) accelerates in diverse industries, the use of 3DP is also increasing in the textile and fashion industry. Since the fashion trend is rapidly changing and there are high demands of customized products for customer segments, research on manufacturing of 3DP textiles has become more important. 3DP textiles have different physical and chemical properties depending on a various 3D printing technologies or materials. However, it is difficult to fabricate 3DP textiles that meets demand of garment such as flexibility, wearability, tensile strength and abrasion resistance so that 3DP in fashion industry relatively has a narrow range of applications compared to other industries. The aim of this paper is to provide a trend of research about manufacturing 3DP textiles by analyzing previous studies according to textile's properties. This paper classifies the five types of 3DP textiles and analyses systematically. First, 3DP textiles blended with existing textiles. Second, 3DP textiles utilizing the structural design of existing textiles. Third, 3DP textiles designed with continuous units. Fourth, 3DP textiles utilizing material properties. Fifth, 3DP textiles based on smart materials. Based on this analysis, future research of manufacturing 3DP textiles needs are identified and discussed.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.12
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• pp.9-17
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• 2011

This study examined non-destructive UV-Vis spectrophotometry as well as 3-D fluorescence spectrophotometry of textile that made use of red dye such as Sappan wood, madder, Safflower, Gromwell. The authors produced two textile specimen that were dyed by not only two kinds of textile (cotton and silk) but also three kinds of mordanting (no-mordanting, alumen and iron), and they investigated effects of each dye material upon investigation results. At analysis with UV-Vis spectrophotometry of dyed textile specimen, dyeing made by sappan wood, madder and gromwell had significant difference depending upon mardant regardless of kinds of textile, and safflower had no significant difference depending upon textile and mordant. At analysis with 3D-fluorescence spectrophotometry, specimen dyed with sappan wood had difference with mordants, and with madder, there were difference with textiles, and safflower had inherent fluorescence spectrum regardless of textiles and mordants, while gromwell had no fluorescence spectrum.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.137-146
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• 2014

The practice of sustainability is an important subject to integrate into the management, product planning, manufacturing by textile and fashion companies as well as consumption by end-users. This study shows an evaluation scale designed to assess the practical cases in order to suggest efficient and systematic methods to fulfill the practice of sustainability in textile and fashion companies. First, companies should practice environmental sustainability to use eco-friendly material and cleaner production, protect the environment, and save natural resources. Second, social sustainability is required to fulfill social responsibility and ethical needs. Third, companies should perform various innovative activities, transparency in management, fair competition and economic contribution in the local community in order to maintain economic sustainability to survive in industry. Finally, cultural sustainability should be fulfilled by textile and fashion companies as part of the intellectual-cultural industry in a way that increases the importance of ethnic and cultural diversity. Textile and fashion companies should fulfill four environmental, social, and economic cultural sustainable subjects in a balanced method to accomplish sustainability. The concerns and practices of environmental sustainability are comparatively highly rated due to the analysis of the evaluation scale. However, cultural sustainability (a need of the times) is poorly rated and needs more attention. Therefore, the evaluation scale can be used as a standard tool to fulfill the sustainability of companies and brands from the viewpoint of improving poor and insufficiently sustainable items as well as balancing sustainability management.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.313-320
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• 2018

As carbon fiber reinforced composites(CFRP) are widely used in aerospace, automobile, marine, and sports goods applications, they have been studied extensively by various researchers. However, CFRP have been pointed out because of machining problems such as delamination and burr phenomenons. Especially, hole machining process, drilling, has non-smooth features on inlet and outlet surfaces of drilled hole. This kind of machining problem can be controlled to some extent by using high modulus pitch-CF, which has considerable effects on fracture behavior of composite compared with only PAN CF composite. Therefore, PAN and pitch hybridized CF composites were prepared having high strength and modulus. The results demonstrate that the hybrid CFRP specimens with pitch CF offer the good potential to enhance modulus as well as strength properties. Dynamic mechanical, flexural, and impact properties were measured and analyzed. Morphological surface of the composites were also observed by IFS-28, canon after hole machining.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.253-273
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• 1998

The culture reflects the ideology of a particular period in time and such values change according to the needs and requests of that time which eventually becomes an important factorin forming the exterior. The clothing is part of a way that composes and expresses the inherent substance of society and culture. Also, the clothing itself manifests the artistic values and behavior of mankind as an external structure maintaining its place as a big part in culture. The purpose of this study are to elucidat the concept of naturalism, which is discussed in many facets in the modern era; I studied the concept as well as the history of naturalism in order to manifest the meaning of clothing in the context of culture and I explained the concept in terms of the modern era. On such ground, I explained the naturalism expressed through clothing and characterized the exter-nal form of clothing. Also, in order to know the stream of naturalism in the modern context, I referred to the Vogue magazine of the 90s, using Delong's ABC method. Naturalism, in the context of modern fashion is a way to express the nostalgia of nature's vi-ability and purity of ecology apart from the artificial and structural appearance that resulted form scientific enhancement and hence, the ecological crisis. Naturalism pursues the soft- ness and comfort of the natural silhouette, color and material of the human body and it can be said that naturalism emphasizes the mix-ture of three substances : human, nature and clothing. The naturalism can be characterized by the factors expressed in clothing as follows. First, the naturalism shown in the form it-self draws the beauty of the bodyline without any reduction nor exaggeration. Without any distorttion of the human bodyline it shown the curve as one moves along, using the soft material. Second, the naturalism shown in color most-ly uses the natural tone with added white color and other color low in intensity and value like the receded colors of the earth that could be compared to the beauty of ecru. Third, the naturalism shown in the material is thin, light and soft in texture. In order to bring out the most natural curve of the human body, the natural fiber becomes the main material, sometimes, using crude materials. Due to the lindustrial improvement, softness and elasticity is added to the natural fibers giving them an important role as materials. Fourth, the naturalism shown in textile depicts the real natural objects in life. According to my study, the personality of naturalism in modern clothing was shown to be most strong in material and then in the order of form, texture and textile. The material com-posed of the natural silhouette and natural fibers were used to make soft color. In form, Paul Poiret made appearance expressing the natural beauty of the human body without the corset ; it continued with the inner lining making the clothing hard but in the 90s, lining-less, extremely exposed clothes and knit wear is used to emphasize the natural beauty of the body. In color and textile, the tendency spok-en above is not as strong but in color, instead of high intensity or value, the usage of neutral colors with added white color or ecru color, ear-th tone is increasing. In textile, the usage of flowers as natural material is seen frequently. As a whole, naturalistic trend in the 90s is increasing and the modern fashion is breaking out from the artificial and architectural form and conforming to a form that can realize the natural beauty of the human body. And the natural color and textile that conforms to such ideas are being used to pursue the human oriented trend that has appeared due to the increase in usage of soft natural fiber. Nowadays, the idea of returning to nature, defying the artificiality, desiring the leisure and psychological abundance that can be explained as naturalistic way of thinking is necessitated in this modern era as long as humans coexist with nature, this tendency will continue in clothing.